Pocket Book
for the
Leather
Technologist
Fourth edition, revised and enlarged
BASF Aktiengesellschaft
67056 Ludwigshafen
Germany
Preface
In this fourth edition of our Pocket Book for the Leather Technologist, the
content was carefully revised and updated. Two new chapters “Leather
goods” and “Fur” were added. The chapter “First aid” was cancelled.
Please use the appropriate medical literature if you need information on
this issue.
We have updated the information on the properties, use and nature of
our products for the leather industry. The principal methods used in
leather production are briefly described. The information given in the
chapter on types of raw skins is intended to serve only as a guide. The
chapter “Safety and Environmental Protection” was completely revised
and supplemented by detailed information on the safety data sheet.
We hope that this carefully revised and enlarged edition will meet with the
same approval as the preceding editions and that the practical tanner
and others interested in the leather business will find this volume a helpful
and rapid source of reference for the variety of products that we offer for
the production of leather.
Nevertheless, it is possible that you may have some further questions.
We have issued a range of publications that contain further information
on a variety of topics. More detailed information on our products is con-
tained in our pattern cards and Technical Information leaflets with exam-
ples of application. Our technical staff will be pleased to advise you
personally on any queries that you may have.
Visit us also at: http://www.basf.com/leather
                                                                           3
In presenting this pocket book, we cannot claim to serve in any but an
advisory capacity and can undertake no liability.
The names of our products are, as a rule, registered trade marks. No
significance may be attached to the absence of a sign to this effect
against any product mentioned in this book.
We know of no ill effects that could have resulted from using the BASF
products mentioned in this book for the purpose for which they are inten-
ded and from processing them in accordance with current practice.
According to the experience we have gained up to now and other infor-
mation at our disposal, our products do not exert any harmful effects on
health, provided that they are used properly, due attention is given to the
precautions necessary for handling chemicals and the information and
advice given in our Safety Data Sheets are observed.
                                                                           5
Contents
Coloured pages
Colour         Chapter                                      Page
white          Contents                                        7
yellow         Raw skin – Pickling                            17
green          Tanning/retanning                              81
red            Emulsifiers – Fatliquoring – Dyeing – Drying  129
blue           Finishing                                     173
yellow         Leather goods – Fur – Test methods            209
green          Indicators – Weight and area –                273
               Safety and environmental protection
red            Measures and weights – Chemical compounds     313
blue           Density – Technical Literature – Addresses    369
white          Index                                         •••
6
                                                         Contents
Raw skin                                                       17
Structure of skin and hair                                     17
Amino acids                                                    18
Bridge linkages in proteins                                    20
Physical and chemical properties of collagen and keratin       22
Diagram of hide sections                                       25
Diagram of hide sections for the tanner                        26
Substance of raw hide                                         27
Rawstock                                                       28
Common rawstock terms                                          28
Principal raw hide and skin defects                            29
Commercial classification of hides and skins                   30
A. Cattle hides, calf skins, sheep skins, goat skins           30
   Germany (similar to Switzerland, Austria)                   30
   International raw stock and leather market                  32
   Other European countries                                    33
   North America                                               33
   South America                                               34
   North Africa                                                35
   South Africa                                                36
   West Africa/East Africa                                     37
   Asia Minor/China                                            38
   Japan/India, Pakistan                                       39
   Thailand/Indonesia                                          41
   Australia                                                   42
   New Zealand                                                 43
B. Pig skins                                                   44
C. Fish skins                                                  44
D. Reptiles                                                    44
E. Other types of hides and skins                              45
Raw stock inventories; production of raw hides and skins       46
                                                                7
Contents
Curing and disinfection of raw hides and skins                          48
Water                                                                   50
Principal substances contained in water                                 50
Water hardness                                                          50
Water softening                                                         53
Vessels for the beamhouse                                               56
Flow chart from raw stock to production of pelts                        57
Soaking                                                                 58
Methods of accelerating soaking                                         58
BASF soaking auxiliaries                                                59
Depilation, opening up the skin                                         60
The most commonly used depilation and liming methods                    60
Chemicals for depilation and liming                                     63
Liming and painting auxiliaries                                         68
Deliming                                                                70
BASF deliming agents                                                    70
Definition of deliming value, buffering capacity, lime dissolving value 71
Strength comparison of BASF deliming agents                             72
Other deliming agents                                                   73
Bating                                                                  74
Enzymes in bating agents                                                74
BASF bating agents                                                      75
8
                                                               Contents
Degreasing                                                           76
Degreasing methods                                                   76
The most commonly used degreasing agents                             77
BASF degreasing agents                                               77
Pickling of pelts                                                    78
Pickling methods                                                     78
Pickling acids                                                       79
Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various acids
and deliming agents                                                  80
Tanning and retanning                                                81
Purpose of tanning                                                   81
Cross-linking reactions between skin substance and tanning agents    82
Shrinking temperature of hide and leather                            83
Tanning methods                                                      84
Amounts of tanning agent required for various types of leather       85
Vegetable tanning                                                    86
Structure of vegetable tanning agents                                86
Vegetable tanning materials                                          87
Vegetable tannin extracts (liquid, solid, powder)                    91
BASF products supporting vegetable tanning                           93
Mineral tanning                                                      94
Structure of mineral tanning agents                                  94
BASF mineral tanning agents                                          94
Amounts of mineral tanning agents in % for x % Cr2O3 and Al2O3       96
Other mineral tanning salts                                          97
Basicity                                                             98
Masking of chrome tanning agents                                    100
Reduced chrome liquors prepared from potassium or sodium
dichromate                                                          101
                                                                      9
Contents
Special BASF tanning auxiliaries                               103
Flow chart of chrome leather tanning                           104
Other tanning methods                                          105
Wet white tannage                                              105
    Selected BASF products for wet white leather               105
    Important parameters in wet white tanning                  107
    Flow chart of wet white tanning                            108
Oil tannage                                                    108
Neutralization (deacidification) of leather                    109
Purpose/procedure                                              109
Neutralizing agents (general)                                  110
Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various alkalis
and neutralizing agents                                        111
BASF neutralizing agents                                       112
Retanning                                                      113
Structures of aromatic and aliphatic retanning agents          113
Some basic constituents of synthetic tanning agents            114
BASF synthetic tanning and retanning agents                    115
Polymeric retanning agents                                     117
Resin tanning agents                                           118
BASF aldehyde tanning agents                                   119
BASF oil tanning agents                                        119
Tanning and retanning auxiliaries                              120
Bleaching and fixation                                         121
Bleaching methods                                              121
BASF bleach-tanning agents and bleaching auxiliaries           122
Fixing agents for vegetable tannins and syntans                122
Loading agents                                                 122
10
                                                             Contents
Tanner’s tools                                                    123
Tannery machines                                                  124
Tanning/retanning – Glossary                                      126
Emulsifiers and wetting agents                                    129
Chemical classification                                           129
Emulsion types                                                    129
The main BASF emulsifiers and wetting agents for the leather
and fur industries                                                130
Fatliquoring                                                      131
The principal basic fatliquoring substances                       131
Characteristic values of the main fatty substances                132
Classification of leather fatliquoring products                   136
Fatliquoring methods                                              136
BASF fatliquor range                                              137
Analysis of leather fatliquoring agents                           140
General structure of fatliquors                                   143
Courses of reaction in the production of fatliquors               144
Composition of natural oils and fats                              145
Percentages of fatty acids in some oils and fats                  146
                                                                  147
Water-repellent treatment of leather
The main water-repellents (general)                               147
BASF water-repellents                                             148
Drum Dyeing                                                       150
Colour spectrum                                                   150
Chromatic triangle for colour matching                            151
CIE chromaticity diagram                                          152
CIELAB colour system                                              154
                                                                   11
Contents
Classification of leather dyes                                      155
BASF products for drum dyeing                                       156
Selected Lurazol and Luganil Dyes with particularly good
penetration                                                         161
BASF basic dyes                                                     161
Dyeing auxiliaries                                                  162
Dyeing methods                                                      164
Parameters of dyeing in the production of high-quality leathers     165
Through-feed dyeing machine                                         168
Drying                                                              169
Drying methods for leather                                          169
Air humidity                                                        170
Machines for dry finishing – operating principles                   171
Flow chart of processes from wet blue to finishing                  172
Finishing                                                           173
Classification of finishes                                          173
General structure of finish                                         175
Leather finishes and dyes                                           176
    Brightening dyes                                                176
    BASF dyes for spraying, curtain coating and printing,
    and for shading finishes                                        176
    Pigment colours                                                 177
    BASF pigment preparations                                       178
Thermoplastic binders                                               180
    The main basic substances for the production of polymer binders 182
Base coating agents and binders                                     183
Top coats and laquers                                               193
BASF finishing auxiliaries                                          196
12
                                                   Contents
Solvents and diluents used in finishing                 200
Finishing machines                                      202
Terms applied to some types of leather                  205
Leather goods                                           209
Shoe leather                                            209
Automotive leather                                      211
Upholstery leather                                      213
Garment leather                                         215
Fur                                                     217
Fur skin, general                                       217
Fur dressing                                            218
   BASF products for fur dressing                       218
Fur dyeing                                              222
   BASF products for fur dyeing                         223
Nappalan – flesh side finishing                         226
Leather testing methods                                 227
IUC/IUP-methods                                         227
ALCA analytical methods compared to ASTM methods        232
Preparation of samples for analysis                     234
Calculation and evaluation of test results              237
Quality requirements for the main types of leather      242
Testing of leather dyes and leather dyeings             252
   IUF methods                                          252
   Testing of leather dyes                              255
   Testing of dye solutions                             256
   Testing of leather dyeings                           258
Testing of leather finishes                             264
Important dimensions for analytics                      271
Suppliers of standard test methods                      272
                                                         13
Contents
Indicators, pH Value                                                273
pH Value                                                            273
Common indicators                                                   274
Determining the charge on leather surfaces with charge indicator    276
Charge relations on pelts and leathers                              277
Relations between weight, area and yield in leather production      278
Weight designations used in leather production                      278
Conversion factors for various curing stages of hides and skins     280
Area and weight yields                                              281
Leather production costs                                            282
Materials required for the production of various types of leather   283
Safety and environmental protection                                 285
Safety Data Sheets                                                  285
Regulations concerning the transportation of materials classified
as dangerous goods                                                  291
Danger symbols – marking according to the regulation on
dangerous Goods (GefStoffV)                                         292
Danger labels prescribed by IMDG Code                               293
Some basic terms concerning the safe handling of chemicals          295
Environmental protection                                            297
Waste water treatment                                               299
   Water-polluting substances                                       300
   Types of sludge and treatment                                    301
   Wastes                                                           302
   Regulations concerning direct or indirect discharge of effluents 304
Airborne emissions                                                  306
   Hydrogen sulfide hazards in the leather industry                 306
Some basic terms used in environmental protection                   308
14
                                                                Contents
Standard physical units of measurement                               313
SI base units                                                        313
SI derived units with special names and symbols                      315
Units outside SI with special names and symbols                      317
Definitions of various derived units                                 319
Conversion tables                                                    320
Units of length                                                      322
   Conversion table – metres and yards                               323
   Conversion table – millimetres to inches                          324
   Conversion of inches to millimetres and leather substance in
   ounces                                                            325
Units of area                                                        326
   Conversion table – square metres to square feet                   327
   Conversion table – square feet to square metres                   328
Units of volume                                                      329
   Conversion table – litres and gallons (Brit. and US)              331
Units of weight                                                      333
   Conversion table – kilograms (kg) and pounds (lbs)                334
   Conversion table – grams (g) and ounces (oz)                      335
Conversion tables – Imp./US units and SI units                       336
Formulae                                                             339
Determination of some areas and perimeters                           339
Determination of some volumes                                        340
Optimum r.p.m. of processing drums for the appropriate load
volume with non-carrying float lengths                               344
Tables for determining the correct nominal diameters of air
pressure reducers and water separators in compressed air
spraying units                                                       345
Conversion table for temperature readings                            348
Conversion table for density and Baumé, barkometer and
twaddle hydrometer readings                                          352
Rules for mixing                                                     354
                                                                      15
Contents
Elements                                                  355
Symbol, atomic number and atomic weight of elements       355
Chemical compounds                                        359
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some
chemical compounds                                        359
Production of a certain relative humidity                 365
Definition of mixtures of substances                      366
Terms expressing interaction with water                   367
Density and conversion tables                             369
Alkalis                                                   369
Acids                                                     372
Salts                                                     384
Technical literature                                      390
Books                                                     390
Selection of journals                                     393
                                                          394
Abbreviations of commercial terms
World time zones                                          398
Addresses                                                 400
Index                                                     •••
16
                                                                                          Raw skin
Raw skin
  Structure of skin
                               hair or wool      corneous layer      ca. 1% of
                                                 granulous layer
                                epidermis                            total thickness
                                                                     of skin
                                                 mucous layer
                                       grain
                                     papillary layer;
                                     empty spaces left
                                     by hair papillae,       corium or cutis (dermis);
                                     sweat and fat           ca. 85% of total thickness of
                                     glands                  raw skin; the actual leather
                                                             making material
                                     reticular layer
                                    subcutis (hydrodermis), ca. 15% of total thickness
                                    of raw skin; removed in mechanical beamhouse
                                    operations.
    fat, flesh, blood vessels
Structure of hair
                              cortex
               medulla
                                                         protofibril
                                    cuticle
            shaft             follicle funnel
                                                                                           cuticle
sebaceous                            epidermis        fibril
gland
                                       duct of a
                                       sweat gland                                        cortex
    epithelial                    root                                                   medulla
    tissue
connective
tissue
                                       bulb
                                                          Cross-section of hair shaft
                     papilla
                                                                                                   17
Raw skin
Fibrous structure of true skin (collagen)
Fibre bundles composed of fibres (20 – 200 μm in diameter) which in turn
consist of elementary fibres (about 5 μm in diameter), and these of fibrils
(10 – 100 nm in diameter), and these of microfibrils (about 5 nm in dia-
meter), and these of macromolecules.
The collagen molecules (tropocollagen) are about 280 nm long, about
1.5 nm in diameter and have a molecular weight of about 300000. They
are composed of three polypeptide chains which are twisted together in
form of a helix (triple helix) and which consist of amino acids that are
linked together by peptide bonds.
1 kg raw skin has a reactive inner fibre surface area of 1000 – 2500 m2.
Amino acids
The amino acids are the constituents of proteins. They contain the amino
group -NH2, the carboxyl group -COOH and the radical -R. The general
formula is:
                                     R
                                      |
                                 H2N–CH–COOH
The radical -R characterizes the amino acids and classifies them into the
following groups:
– Non-polar, non-reactive               = Hydrogen, aliphatic compounds,
                                          aromatics.
                                        = -OH, -SH, -COOH, -COO–,
– Polar, reactive
                                          -CO-NH-, -CO-NH2, -COOR, NH2,
                                          NH3+
There are 20 different amino acids in the structure of collagen and
21 – 22 in that of keratin. Typical of collagen is the presence of hydroxy-
proline (HYP) and glycine (GLY); characteristic of keratin is the presence
of the sulfur-containing amino acid cystine (CYS).
18
                                                    Raw skin
Amino acid    Radical -R              Abbre- Frequency in
                                      viation collagen wool
Glycine       -H                      Gly     ++++     +
                                      Ala     +++      +
Alanine       -CH3
              -CH-(CH3)2              Val     +        +
Valine
              -CH2-CH-(CH3)2          Leu     +        +
Leucine
              -CH-(CH3)-CH2CH3        Ileu    +        +
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine                         Phe     +        +
              – CH2 –
              -CH2-CH2-S-CH3          Met     (+)      +
Methionine
              -CH2-OH                 Ser     +        ++
Serine
                                      Thr     +        +
Threonine     -CH(OH)-CH3
Tyrosine                              Tyr     (+)      +
              – CH2 –    – OH
              -CH2-SH                 Cys     –        ++++
Cysteine
              -CH2-S-S—CH2CH-COOH     (Cys)2  –        +++
Cystine
                              l
                             NH2
Aspartic acid -CH2-COOH               Asp     +        ++
              -CH2-CO-NH2             Asn     +        ++
Asparagine
              -CH2-CH2-COOH           Glu     ++       ++
Glutamic acid
              -CH2-CH2-CO-NH2         Gln     ++       ++
Glutamine
              -CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-NH2    Lys     +        +
Lysine
              -CH2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-NH2 Hyl     +        +
Hydroxylysine
              -(CH2)3NHC(NH)-NH2      Arg     ++       +
Arginine
Histidine                             His     +        +
              – CH2 – C = CH
                            NH
                      N CH
Tryptophane                           Trp     –        +
              – CH2 –
                      N
                                                          19
Raw skin
Amino acid              Chemical structure                          Abbre- Frequency in
                                                                    viation collagen wool
Proline                                                             Pro             +++       +
                                CH2
                                         CH2
                        H 2C
                                         CH
                          HN                     COOH
Hydroxyproline                                                      Hyp             ++        –
                               CHOH
                                         CH2
                        H2C
                                         CH
                          HN                     COOH
Structure of a polypeptide chain of amino acids (AA)
                                                                               Peptide
                                                                    O     H    group
                O      H
 NH2 – CH – C      +        N – CH – COOH              NH2 – CH – C – N –CH – COOH + H2O
                OH H
       R1                       R2                            R1                R2
 AS        +               AS          =                    peptide
Multiple peptide linkages (n) give polypeptides in form of long chains (n)
for collagen about 1000.
                                                            OH
        Alanine                 Glycine                            Serine
        CH3             O        H                 O        CH2                 O
                                                                    H
                H                         H
                                                                    N H C – OH = Polypeptide
                N H C                     N H C             C
        C                        C                                                      chain
                   C                          C                           C
 H–N H C                     N H C                        N H C
                             H                            H
     H
                  (CH2)4                     (CH2)2                       H
              O                        O                         O
                   NH2                        COOH
                   Lysine                   Glutamic acid              Glycine
N-terminal AS –– Ala – Lys – Gly ... //... Glu – Ser – Gly <– C-terminal AA
                   >                                                              –
Bridge linkages in proteins
Cross-linking bridges decisively influence the structure, stability, reaction
capacity and overall behaviour of proteins. They may occur within the
peptide chain (intrachain longitudinal cross-linkage) or between two or
several adjacent peptide chains (interchain transverse cross-linkage).
20
                                                                  Raw skin
1. Principal valence linkages (covalent linkage)
a. Disulfide bridges of cystine
   OC
   HC – CH2 – S
     NH
                                                       CO
                            OC
   OC
                            HC – CH2 – S – S – CH2 – CH
   HC – CH2 – S
                                                       NH
                              NH
     NH
   intrachain longitudinal    interchain transverse
   cross-linkage              cross-linkage
b. Ester linkage bridges between carboxyl and hydroxy groups in side
   chains
              NH                            NH
                                                    (Asp + Ser)
              CH – CH2 – CO – O – CH2 – CH
              CO                            CO
c. Side chain peptide bridge linkages between the acid and the basic
   amino acids
            NH                               NH
                                                      (Asp + Lys)
            CH – CH2 – CO – NH – (CH2)4 – CH
            CO                               CO
                                                                        21
Raw skin
2. Secondary valence linkages (non-covalent linkage)
a. Hydrogen bridge linkages between peptide groups or between side
   chains and peptide groups
   R – CH             C=O                   R – CH
              ....                                    ....
       C=O         H–N                          C=O        HO – R – CH
                                            H–N
   H–N                CH – R
b. Ionic linkage between charged side chains (formation of electrovalent
   salt bridges)
             OC                                            CO
                                  NH2     O
             HC – (CH2)3 – NH – C           C – (CH2)2 – CH
                                    +    –
                                  NH2     O
             HN                                            NH
                                                  Glu
                     Arg
c. Hydrophobic (non-polar) bridge linkages between hydrocarbon side
   chains
                             NH H3C – CH
                             CH –– CH3 CO
                                        NH
                             CO
Cross-linking reactions with tanning agents see under chapter “Tanning”.
Physical and chemical properties
1. Collagen
– Whitish, hard and brittle in the dry state.
– Insoluble in cold water and organic solvents.
– Water absorption up to 70 % on the tissue weight; partly deposited in
   form of water of hydration or capillary water.
– Water vapour absorption up to 50 % on the collagen weight. Decisive
   advantages over synthetic replacement materials.
– Preservation by dehydration is possible.
22
                                                                     Raw skin
– With continuous heating in the presence of water, the fibres shrink
   to one third of their original length and begin to cement together
   irreversibly.
– Collagen shows minimum swelling at the isoelectric point.
– Dilute acids and alkalis cause swelling due to the charge, i. e. volume
   and weight increase owing to higher water uptake (reversible, almost
   no change in structure of collagen).
   Increase in temperature and concentration and extension of time
   result in swelling due to hydrolysis (only partially reversible).
– Hydrotropic substances enhance swelling and lower the cementing
   temperature, the ones with strong polarity render collagen soluble.
2. Keratin
– Characteristic sulfur content of 3 – 5 % (disulfide bridge of cystine).
– Hydrolytically splittable by reduction and oxidation.
                     >
   – S – S – + 2H –– 2 – SH
Hofmeister or lyotropic series
The Hofmeister or lyotropic series mark the swelling effect of neutral salts
on proteins. The effect of the anion is more pronounced than that of the
cation.
Cationic series:            Calcium – strontium – barium – magnesium –
                            lithium – ammonium – sodium – potassium
Anionic series:             Rhodanide – iodide – bromide – nitrate –
                            chloride – acetate – sulfate – thiosulfate
                                                                >
                            –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
                            dehydrating, deswelling, coagulating
                            <
                            –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
                            peptising, promoting swelling, dissolving
                                                                           23
Raw skin
Proteins of animal skin
1. Globular proteins (ca. 3.5 %)
   a. Albumines
   b. Globulines                            removed in beamhouse
   c. Various proteides                     operations
      and melanines
2. Fibrous proteins
   a. Collagen (ca. 98 %)                   structural substance for
   b. Elastin (ca. 1 %)                     leather making
   c. Keratin (epidermis, hair)
Chemical composition of proteins
45 –   55 %     carbon
 6 –    8 %     hydrogen
19 –   25 %     oxygen
16 –   19 %     nitrogen
 0.5 –  2.5 %   sulfur, phosphorus, iron, bromine, chlorine
Composition of animal skin
Water                       ca.    65 %
Proteins                    ca.    33 %
Mineral matter              ca.      0.5 %
Fatty substances                 2– 6 % (cattle, calf)
                                 2–10 % (goat)
                                 5–30 % (sheep)
24
                                                                Raw skin
Diagram of hide sections
                                                   cheek
                  cheek            face
   fore-
                                                                 fore-
   shank
                                                                 shank
                                    head
     breast                                                  breast
                                  shoulder
               flank                                 flank
     tip                                                     tip
                                    back
              belly                                   belly
              flank                                   flank
                                    shell
                                           butt edge hind shank
   hind shank           butt edge    tail
1. Shell, back and butt edge = bend or butt
2. Shoulder, head, cheeks and face = neck
3. Belly, flank, foreshank and hind shank = flank
                                                                       25
Raw skin
Diagram of hide sections for the tanner
                                D
                                                C
                   E
                                 B
                                 A
                  A = Side (half of a whole hide)
                  B = Butt (half of a butt = bend)
                  C = Half back (2 x C = back)
                  D = Shoulder (including neck and head)
                  E = Belly (including shanks)
Butt              ca. 45 – 55 %
                                            referring to whole
Shoulder          ca. 20 – 25 %             surface area or
                                            total weight of hide
Belly             ca. 20 – 25 %
26
                                                                 Raw skin
Substance of raw hide
Substance = structure of the hide with regard to thickness, fibre strength
              and fibre texture.
                    3       4                   3       4
                                            shoulder
                       butt
                    3       3               2.5 2.5
                                              2      2
                            2
                 flank
Cow hide = poor substance, thin loose fibre texture (dependent on
             number of calves produced)
                             6                 5         6
                    5
                      butt                  shoulder
                   5          5               5 5
                                               3
                flank                                3
                              3
Ox hide = good substance, uniform thickness, tight fibre texture
                     5         4                4       7
                                            shoulder
                      butt
                     5         4             4 5
               flank 5                         6     5
Bull hide = poor substance; loose fibre texture
(The numbers in the sketches indicate the approximate thickness of the
hide in mm)
                                                                        27
Rawstock
Common rawstock terms
Bastard skins   Sheepskins with goat-like hair structure.
Crust           Light leather which has not been further processed
                after tanning but has been merely dried out: usually
                vegetable but sometimes chrome or combination
                tanned.
Cuirots         Sweated, painted or limed, dried sheep skins.
Culatte         In Germany the rear part of a cattle hide comprising the
                butt with the side parts (shoulder and upper side parts
                removed). Sold chiefly in the form of crust leather.
Domestic hides The hides of cattle reared mostly in stalls.
Kip             The hide of the Southeast Asiatic zebu.
Offal           Shoulder and flank parts cut away from the butt.
Pelt            General term for unhaired skins and hides (after liming
                and up to tanning). Also applied to shearlings in the
                raw state.
Pickled pelts   Pelts which have been pretreated with a solution of
                common salt and acid for tanning with mineral tanning
                salts. Pelts which have been pretreated with high con-
                centrations of salt and acid are marketed in this form.
Pickled skivers Thin grain splits of sheep skins which have been
                treated with a solution of common salt and acid and
                are marketed in this form.
                Sweated, painted or limed and dried sheep skins.
Slats
Wet blue        Term for all chrome tanned and still moist leathers.
                Chrome-free, pretanned leather.
Wet white
Wild hides      The hides of wild grazing cattle mainly from South
                America, Asia, Africa and Australia.
28
                                                                 Rawstock
Principal raw hide and skin defects
• Mechanical injuries
   Brand marks, barbed wire scratches, holes and scratches caused by
   thorns, curry-comb scratches. Holes caused by prods and dung
   forks, injuries caused by horns, holes in the grain caused by sharp
   awns of plants, chafe marks.
• Defects caused by diseases
   Warts, ulcers, skins diseases, damage to the grain and destruction of
   the tissue by parasitic fungi attack.
• Damage caused by corrosion
   Blind grain to rough, open grain caused by the corrosive action of
   dung and urine.
• Damage caused by parasites
   Warble damage, tick marks, hornification and recesses (scab) and
   holes caused by mites, lice and nematodes.
• Flaying defects
   Butcher cuts, grain damage caused by flaying machines.
• Curing faults
   Salt stains, putrefaction, discolorations caused by bacteria, mould
   stains, iron stains, beetle damage, drying defects (cementing, self-
   splitting).
                                                                        29
Rawstock
Commercial classification of hides and
skins
A. Cattle hides, calf skins, sheep skins, goat skins
Germany (similar to Switzerland, Austria)
Domestic cattle hides: heifers, cows, oxen, bulls.
Ways of curing:
a. Long-term curing with pure common salt.
b. Short-term curing (marketing of fresh hides) by air-cooling or covering
   with crushed ice.
   Sold by green weight.
Commercial classification:      North German hides = lowland breeds
                                South German hides = highland breeds
                                Allgäu hides = brown cattle/grey cattle
   Weight classes:              up to 14.5 kg
                                 15 – 19.5 kg
                                 20 – 24.5 kg
                                 25 – 29.5 kg
                                 30 – 39.5 kg
                                 40 – 49.5 kg
                                 50 – 59.5 kg
                                      60 kg/plus
   Average weight and size: 36 – 39 kg/3.25 – 4.20 m2 per hide
Grasser skins:                  up to    10 kg
                                         10 kg/plus
Calf skins:                     up to 4.5 kg (light)
                                  4.5 – 7.5 kg (medium)
                                        7.5 kg/plus (heavy or veal skins)
                                number of skins over 10 kg in one lot must
                                be specified.
Horse hides: exclusively salted, sold by size (measured from root of tail to
             ears).
                                up to 179 cm
                                 180 – 199 cm       also sold separately as
                                 200 – 219 cm       shoulders and shells
                                  220/plus cm
30
                                                                    Rawstock
Foals:                             up to 150 cm
Donkeys, mules:                     150/plus cm
Sheep skins: Mainly wet-salted and sold by auction.
              The wool is from fine to coarse.
Wool skins:                                                            4 – 6 kg
Minimum wool length:        long       – 6 cm
                            medium     – 4 cm
                            short      – 2 cm
Shearlings and pelts:                                                  2 – 4 kg
(Pelts minimum wool length 1 cm)
“Heidschnucke” (sheep bred in the “Lüneburger Heide”):                 3 – 4 kg
Lambskins: small lambs and slinks
Goatskins: exclusively air-dried.
                                  Average size     Average weight
                                  27 – 37 dm2         35 – 150 kg/100   skins
“Heifer” goatskins
                                  46 – 55 dm2         50 – 100 kg/100   skins
Young goats, female
                                  55 – 74 dm2        100 – 140 kg/100   skins
Female goat skins
                                  55 – 74 dm2      below 175 kg/100     skins
Male goat skins
                                  65 – 83 dm2        175 – 200 kg/100   skins
Male goat skins
                                  74 – 92 dm2         over 200 kg/100   skins
Male goat skins
The skins are sorted into         Prima,        Sekunda,         Tertia
the following classes:            Ia            II a             III a
Kid skins: exclusively air-dried.
                                  Average size     Average weight
                                  18 – 23 dm2
“Suckling”                                           16 – 17.0 kg/100   skins
                                  23 – 27 dm2             24.0 kg/100   skins
“Suckling”
                                  27 – 32 dm2             31.5 kg/100   skins
“Springer”
                                  32 – 37 dm2             33.0 kg/100   skins
“Springer”
                                  37 – 42 dm2             35.0 kg/100   skins
“Springer”
For glove leather, skins of weight classes below 30 kg/100 skins are
used.
                                                                             31
Rawstock
International rawstock and leather market
Since hides and skins are no longer auctioned, the standard table com-
monly used in Germany for rating defects in hides and skins has become
obsolete.
The International Council of Hides, Skins & Leather Traders’ Associations
and the International Council of Tanners have issued trade contracts.
a. International Contract No. 6 – Hides and skins
   Appendix A:            Raw hides and skins
                          (dried, dry- or wet-salted).
   Appendix B:            Pickled hides and skins, pickled grain hides and
                          splits.
   Appendix C:            Wet blue hides and skins, wet blue splits.
   Appendix D:            Chrome, vegetable or other tanned unfinished
                          leathers in the dry or crust state.
b. International Contract No. 7 – Finished leather
These contracts regulate between sellers and buyers all essentials, such
as recalculation of weights, quality, amount, freight, shipment, risks,
insurance, bills and payments, place of jurisdiction, etc.
The hides and skins are sorted into “prima” and “secunda” according to
any major defects determined (grub holes, butcher cuts, etc.). Goods
showing serious damage or microbial attack are rejects. Weight correc-
tions are made, if hides or skins have an excessive amount of adhering
dung.
32
                                                                    Rawstock
Other European countries
Similar to classifications in Germany, but sometimes large differences in
weight classes and average weights (in Scandinavia sold by salted weight).
In Eastern Europe no classifications exist that are generally valid. Trade
contracts are concluded on individual agreements. The weight classifica-
tion of cattle hides and calf skin that are intended to be exported to
Western Europe is adapted to the standards valid in these countries.
North America
Classification according to place of slaughtering:
    1. Big Packers
    2. Small Packers
    3. Renderers
    4. Collectors
    5. Country Ware
Exclusively cured by salting and sold by salted weight. Increasingly more
wet blue and crust are marketed.
Additional classification:
    Native
    Branded
Weight classes (cows, steers, bulls):
    Light Native Cows                            30 – 53 lbs
    Heavy Native Cows                            53/plus lbs
    Branded Cows                                 30/plus lbs
    Ex-Light Native Steers                       30 – 48 lbs
    Light Native Steers                          48 – 58 lbs
    Heavy Native Steers                          58/plus lbs
    Butt Branded Steers                          58/plus lbs
    Colorado Side Branded Steers                 58/plus lbs
    Native Bulls                                 all weights
    Branded Bulls                                all weights
    Country Locker Butcher                       all weights
    Country Mixed Lots                           all weights
Calf skins:                   3 – 24 lbs            4 – 25 lbs    5 – 27 lbs
                              7 – 29 lbs           9 – 12 lbs   12 – 17 lbs
                             17 – 25 lbs
                                               up to 91⁄ 2 lbs 91⁄ 2 – 15 lbs
Partly from packers
West coast                  up to 6 lbs             6 – 13 lbs  13 – 15 lbs
                                                                             33
Rawstock
South America
(Primarily Argentine – partly quite different standards in the other coun-
tries).
Cured by salting, but increasingly green hides are sold.
A small proportion is dried (chiefly Brazil).
Increasingly more wet blue and crust are produced.
Weight classes of salted hides and skins:
Barrigas       (skins of unborn calves with undeveloped hair)
Nonatos        (unborn calves with developed hair)               under 3.5 kg
Mamones        (milk calves)                                       3.5 – 7.0 kg
Terneros       (yearlings)                                          7 – 11.5 kg
Becerros       (calves)
Extremes
Vaquillonas    (light cows)                                     up to 18.0   kg
Vacas          (cows)                                               18/plus  kg
Novillitos     (light oxen)                                          17 – 23 kg
Novillos       (oxen)                                               22/plus  kg
Toros          (bulls)                                              18/plus  kg
For identification of the origin, the name of the province or countryside is
indicated.
Goat and kid skins:
Cabritos                                                           up to 400  g
Cabrillonas                                                        400 – 600  g
Cabras                                                              over 600  g
Chivos jovenes                                               less than 1000   g
Chivos                                                            over 1000   g
34
                                                                   Rawstock
North Africa
Primarily Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia
Curing: salted, dry-salted and mainly dried.
Wet blue and crust are also marketed.
Cattle hides, calf skins (green weight):
Calf skins             1–16   kg                average             4 – 15 kg
Grassers               6 – 12 kg                average             9 – 10 kg
Light hides           13 – 20 kg                average                 18 kg
                      20 – 24 kg                average            22 – 23 kg
                      25/plus kg                average            28 – 30 kg
Dry-salted ca. 33 % lighter.
Goat and kid skins:
                                                                     Average
Kids                   2–14   kg per dozen  (dry-salted)                  3 kg
                       4–19   kg per dozen  (dry-salted)              6 – 7 kg
Light goats            7 – 12 kg per dozen  (air-dried)
Light goats            8 – 13 kg per dozen  (dry-salted)
Medium goats          13 – 17 kg per dozen  (dry-salted)
Heavy goats           17 – 22 kg per dozen  (dry-salted)
Sheep and lamb skins (dried) – average values:
Milk lambs                                               7 – 18 kg per  dozen
Small lambs                                                  10 kg per  dozen
Light lambs                                                  12 kg per  dozen
Medium lambs                                            14 – 16 kg per  dozen
Heavy lambs                                             18 – 20 kg per  dozen
Extra heavy lambs                                       22 – 24 kg per  dozen
Shaved sheep skins                                      13 – 15 kg per  dozen
Short wool sheep skins                                  17 – 19 kg per  dozen
Medium wool sheep skins                                 22 – 24 kg per  dozen
Half wool sheep skins                                   28 – 30 kg per  dozen
Long wool sheep skins                                   32 – 36 kg per  dozen
                                                                            35
Rawstock
South Africa
Calf skin, cattle hide (Cape hides):
• Cured by wet-salting:
       Calf skins            up to 8 lbs
       Light hides, kips up to 40 lbs
       Hides                40/plus lbs
• Cured by air-drying
       Calf skins            up to 6 lbs
       Hides                12/plus lbs          average 16 – 20 lbs
• Cured by dry-salting:
       Calf skins            up to 6 lbs
       Kips                   6 – 12 lbs
       Hides                 12 – 20 lbs,        20 – 30 lbs,         30/plus lbs
Air-dried goat and kid skins – average:
                                                               = 83 – 110 dm2
    Heavies                      60 lbs per dozen
                                                               = 65 – 183 dm2
    Mediums                48 – 50 lbs per  dozen
    Lights                 36 – 38 lbs per  dozen
    Extra Lights           24 – 26 lbs per  dozen
    Kids                   14 – 18 lbs per  dozen
Also dry-salted Cape goats.
Air-dried sheep and lamb skins:
    Super Combings         (wool 2.5 inches +)                 10    lbs per skin
                                                          9 – 9 1⁄ 2 lbs per skin
    Combings               (wool 2.0 – 2.5 inches)
    Longs                  (wool 1.5 – 2.0 inches)           7–8     lbs per skin
    Medium Merinos         (wool 1.0 – 1.5 inches)               5   lbs per skin
    Short Merinos          (wool 0.5 – 1.0 inch)              4.5    lbs per skin
For wool skins:            Shearings, Crossbreds, Coarsewools, Persians,
                           Caraculs.
                           Pelt – average 3 lbs
For gloves:                Western Glovers (fat tail sheep skins)
                           Sheep and goat skins are also available in the
                           form of pickled pelts.
36
                                                                  Rawstock
West Africa
Main supply countries: Nigeria, Senegal, Congo, Zaire, Upper Volta, Mali,
Niger.
Mainly cured by drying.
Butchers
Ordinaries
Cattle hides (dried, weight classes differ in some regions):
   up to 4 lbs              18 – 12 lbs 16 – 22 lbs
      4 – 8 lbs             12 – 16 lbs 22/plus lbs
Goat skins (dried, per 100 skins):
   90 – 195 lbs           100 – 110 lbs
   95 – 100 lbs           105 – 115 lbs
Sheep skins (dried, per 100 skins):
Light                     120 – 125   lbs
Heavy                     200 – 220   lbs
Medium                    150 – 160   lbs
Sheep and goat skins also supplied    in pretanned form, and as wet blue.
East Africa
Main supply countries: Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania.
Cattle hides and calf skins (dried):
up to 4 lbs                 4 – 8 lbs       8 – 12 lbs     12/plus lbs
Cattle hides and calf skins (salted):
Extra light               13 – 26 lbs       Light          26 – 48 lbs
Medium                    48 – 57 lbs       Heavy          57/plus lbs
Goat skins (air-dried):                     114 – 116 lbs per 100 skins
Kid skins (air-dried):                       55 – 177 lbs per 100 skins
Sheep skins (air-dried):                    187 – 210 lbs per 100 skins
                                                  165 lbs per 100 skins
                                                  120 lbs per 100 skins
                                             66 – 177 lbs per 100 skins
Lamb skins, yearlings:
                                                                        37
Rawstock
Asia Minor
Main supply countries: Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran.
Mainly sheep and goat skins.
Goat skins (dried):                     Kid skins (dried):
160 – 180 kg per 100 skins              25 – 140 kg per 100 skins
100 – 120 kg per 100 skins              40 – 160 kg per 100 skins
120 – 160 kg per 100 skins
Sheep skins (dried):                    Lamb skins (dried):
140 – 160 kg per 100 skins              170 kg per 100 skins
180 – 190 kg per 100 skins              100 kg per 100 skins
190 – 220 kg per 100 skins              120 kg per 100 skins
and sometimes more.
Large quantities in form of pretanned skins and pickled pelts.
Pickled pelts: sold in square foot per dozen.
Also wet blue and crust.
China
All hides and skins are cured by drying.
Cow hides (Hankow):                     Buffalo hides (Hankow):
up to 6 lbs                             10 – 20 lbs
16 – 10 lbs                             20 – 30 lbs
10 – 14 lbs                             30 – 40 lbs
14 – 20 lbs                             40/plus lbs
20 – 30 lbs
30/plus lbs
Cow hides (Canton):                     Buffalo hides (Canton):
18 – 10 lbs                             10 – 15 lbs
10 – 15 lbs                             15 – 20 lbs
15 – 20 lbs                             20 – 30 lbs
20 – 25 lbs                             30 – 40 lbs
25 – 30 lbs                             40/plus lbs
30/plus lbs
Goat skins (dried): sold according to quality, colour and length of hair per
skin = 3⁄ 4 – 13⁄ 4 lbs and 13⁄ 4 plus lbs (also wet blue and crust).
38
                                                                       Rawstock
Japan
                           Average size                        Average weight
                                                               35 – 40 kg/hide
Japanese hides             550 – 600 dm2
India, Pakistan
In the recent decades, both countries have erected modern leather facto-
ries in which leathers up to the finished stage are produced increasingly
for export. As a result, export of rawstock, wet blue, crust and pretanned
leather has decreased or partially stopped.
Cattle hides (dry-salted):
Light kips                       10 – 18    lbs green   weight
Medium kips                       18 – 28   lbs green   weight
Heavy kips                       28/plus    lbs green   weight
Light buffalos                    25 – 40   lbs green   weight
Medium buffalos                   40 – 60   lbs green   weight
Heavy buffalos                   60/plus    lbs green   weight
Cow calves                         4 – 10   lbs green   weight
Buffalo calves                    10 – 20   lbs green   weight
Vegetable tanned hides and skins:
Marketed in the classes       Super Prime, Prime, Common
in the selections             Run, IV, V, Inferio V.
                            33⁄ 4 – 31⁄ 2 lbs   4 – 41⁄ 2 lbs 53⁄ 4 – 51⁄ 2 lbs
Cow hides (per hide):
                            63⁄ 4 – 61⁄ 2 lbs   8 – 81⁄ 2 lbs 103⁄ 4 – 12 lbs
                              3⁄ 4 – 1          1 – 11⁄ 4 lbs  11⁄ 4 – 11⁄ 2 lbs
Cow calves (per skin):                    lbs
                            1 1⁄ 2 – 2          2 – 21⁄ 2 lbs
                                          lbs
                            33⁄ 4 – 31⁄ 2 lbs 4 – 41⁄ 2 lbs 41⁄ 2– 5
Buffalo hides (per hide):                                                    lbs
                            53⁄ 4 – 51⁄ 2 lbs 11 – 12 lbs 133⁄ 4 – 14        lbs
                            6 3⁄ 4 – 7                         8 3⁄ 4 – 9
Buffalo butts (per butt):                 lbs   7– 8      lbs                lbs
                            1 1⁄ 2 – 2          2 – 21⁄ 2 lbs
Buffalo calves (per skin):                lbs
Wet blue and crust are also available (sold by square foot).
                                                                               39
Rawstock
Goat skins (dried, dry-salted):
Well-known types: Bangalore, Amritsar, Patna, Calcutta, Madras,
Mozufferpore, Bombay, Dacca.
Sorted for size (dried):        27 – 30, 30 – 36, 36 – 40 inches
Sorted for weight (dried,
per 500 skins):                 350 – 375 lbs, 400 – 450 lbs
Dry-salted (per 100 skins):     140 – 200 lbs, 200 – 240 lbs
Goat skins (vegetable tanned):
Marketed in the classes         Extra Superfine, Superfine, Prime, Standard
in the selections               Run, V, Inferio V.
Weight classes (lbs per dozen):
                                  51⁄ 2 – 6 lbs    28 – 29 lbs   11 – 12 lbs
                                    1⁄ 2 – 16 lbs  22 – 24 lbs
                                15
Goat skins are also marketed in the form of wet blue and crust
(per square foot).
A special type of chrome crust leather is offered under the designation
“Chromosa”.
Sheep skins – rawstock:
A distinction is made between hair sheep (also known as bastards) and
wool sheep skins.
Dried rawstock:                 160 – 200 lbs per 100 skins
Pelts:                          130 – 160 lbs per 100 skins
Hair sheep:                     200 – 210 lbs per 100 skins
Sheep skins (vegetable tanned):
A distinction is also made here between hair sheep (also known as
bastards) and wool sheep skins.
Marketed in the classes
Hair sheep                      Extra Superfine, Superfine, Prime
Wool sheep                      Semiprime, Middle Class
Selections                      Run, V, Inferio V.
Weight classes in lbs per dozen:
                                51⁄ 2 – 6 lbs      16 – 1 7 lbs  7 – 8 lbs
                                  1⁄ 2 – 10 lbs    11 – 12 lbs
                                8
Wet blue and crust are also available (sold by square foot).
A special type of chrome crust leather is available under the designation
“Chromosa”.
40
                                                                    Rawstock
Thailand
Main supply countries of raw salted hide: Australia, USA, New Zealand,
Netherlands, China, Vietnam, Japan
Cow hide (imported)       36 –  38  kg/hide
Cow hide (domestic)       20 –  22  kg/hide
Buffalo hide (imported)   30 –  33  kg/hide
Buffalo hide (domestic)   27 –  29  kg/hide
Bull                      45 –  48  kg/hide
Indonesia (Java, Sumatra, Bali, Kalimantan, Sulawesi)
Cattle hides (dried Java hides):
Marketed in the classes            up to 3 kg, 3 – 5 kg, 5 – 7 kg, 7/plus kg
in the selections                  Prima, Intermedia, Sekunda, Tertia.
The heaviest hides 9 kg = 22 kg green weight.
1 kg dry weight of the class 3 – 5 kg has about 6 square feet of area.
Cattle hide (salted):
Marketed in the classes            20 – 24 kg, 25 – 30 kg
1 kg wet salted has about 1.6 – 1.7 square feet of area
Buffalo hides (dried):
Marketed in the classes            up to 6 kg, 6 – 8 kg, 8 – 10 kg
                                   10 – 13 kg, 13 – 15 kg, 15/plus kg.
Goat skins (dried and toggled): Sold by length and width, measured from
                                 the root of the tail to the end of the neck
                                 (shoulder).
Selections:                        60 – 69 cm    ca. 15 – 18 kg per 100 skins
                                   70 – 79 cm   ca. 24 – 28 kg per 100 skins
                                   80 – 89 cm   ca. 35 – 38 kg per 100 skins
                                   90 – 99 cm   ca. 48 – 55 kg per 100 skins
                                 100/plus  cm    ca. 62 – 65 kg per 100 skins
1 goat skin of about 750 g dry weight has about 8 square feet of area.
1 goat skin of about 350 g dry weight has about 4 square feet of area.
                                                                            41
Rawstock
Goat skins (wet salted):
Selections:                less then 70 cm    ca.  0.6 – 0.8 kg per skin
                           70 – 79 cm         ca.  0.8 – 1.0 kg per skin
                           80 – 89 cm         ca.  1.2 – 1.4 kg per skin
                           90 cm up           ca.  1.4 – 1.6 kg per skin
1 kg wet salted goat skins has about 5.0 – 5.5 square feet of area.
Sheep skins (dried and toggled):
Sold by length and width, measured from the root of the tail to the end of
the neck (shoulder).
Selections:                  70 – 79 cm       ca.  37 – 38 kg per 100  skins
                             80 – 89 cm       ca.  42 – 43 kg per 100  skins
                             90 – 99 cm       ca.  55 – 60 kg per 100  skins
                           100/plus  cm       ca.  85 – 95 kg per 100  skins
Sheep skin (wet salted):
Selections:                70 – 79 cm         ca.  1.2 – 1.4 kg per skin
                           80 – 89 cm         ca.  1.4 – 1.6 kg per skin
                           90 – 99 cm         ca.  1.6 – 1.8 kg per skin
                           100 cm up          ca.  1.8 – 2.0 kg per skin
1 kg wet salted sheep skins has about 5.5 – 6.0 square feet of area
Australia
Cattle hides, calf skins and yearling skins sold in lbs.
Curing:         mostly salted (but also dry-salted).
                Meatworks = Frigorifico type
Sheep skins (sold in lbs):
Selections:     Merino Sheep skins, Comebacks, Fine Crossbreeds,
                Full and Medium Crossbreeds.
Sorted in various wool lengths.
Partly also supplied in the form of pickled pelts and wet blue.
42
                                                                     Rawstock
New Zealand
Main supply country for pickled sheep and lamb skins.
In the recent years, also wet blue and crust as well as local production of
finished leathers.
Pickled Sheep skins:
Mainly produced from fresh skins.
They are not sold by weight or area but by grade:
The following terms are used to describe all production grades:
– Run Heavy
– Third Heavy
– Run Light
– Merino
– Fourth sheep
Definition of grade:
The definitions Heavy or Light shall be used to indicate the weight and
substance of the skins.
The definition Heavy should apply to a pelt of greater than 2.0 mm
thickness with no single pelt of less than 1.7 mm at the mid side position.
–   Run Heavy sheep:       A minimum of 100 square feet per dozen.
–   Run Light sheep:       A minimum of 96 square feet per dozen.
–   Third:                 No less than two thirds of an intact sheep pelt.
–   Third Heavy:           Defective pelts from Run heavy.
–   Merino:                All inquality. This grade will include full pelts
                           containing Merino and lap rib.
– Fourth:                  Defective pelts from third.
Pickled lamb pelts
Mainly produced from fresh skins.
Sold also by grade.
Definition of grades:
– First:                   minimum of 5 square feet per pelt. Free of fault
                           in main panel.
– Pinhole:                 minimum of 5 square feet per pelt. Apart for the
                           defect of pinhole this definition is identical to
                           first.
– Second:                  minimum of 5 square feet per pelt. Defective
                           pelts from first and pinhole. No major fault and
                           not more than 5 minor faults.
– Third:                   defective from second grade. This grade in-
                           cludes medium or heavy cokle pelts.
                                                                             43
Rawstock
– Reject:                   defective pelts from third. It includes pieces and
                            pelts badly affected by facial eczema.
– Seedy:                    minimum of 5 square feet per pelt. First, second
                            and pinhole pelts, which contain seed, hole
                            and/or seed scar.
– Ribby:                    minimum of 5 square feet per pelt. Pelts with
                            medium/heavy rib from neck to butt.
– Merino:                   all in size. Excessively heavy and lap rib, all
                            grades including seedy pelts.
B. Pig skins
Main supply countries: Eastern Europe, China, Japan, USA, Western
Europe (less than 1 %).
Curing: Mainly salted butts, seldom backs (butt with neck) and whole
skins (with side parts). Also dried, limed pelts (China).
Average weight of salted butts: 2 – 4 kg (divided into weight classes).
Japanese pigskin has an average size of 130 – 140 dm2 and an average
weight of 500 – 600 kg/100 skins.
Peculiarities of pig skin: Hair roots penetrate through the entire cross-
section of the skin.
Skins of wild peccary boars of South America: used for the production of
glove and garment leather.
C. Fish skins
Types of skins used for leather production: skins of sharks, cods and
eels.
Curing: mainly salted. Sold by weight.
D. Reptiles
Crocodile, lizard and snake skins.
Origin: wild-living in the equatorial zones of the earth. Increasingly prod-
uced at breeding farms.
Curing: salted, dried. Marketed in some countries as pretanned skins.
44
                                                                    Rawstock
Classification: according to width (or per skin), size of scales, pattern and
defects are considered.
Marketing in conformance with Washington Agreement on Preservation
of Species.
E. Other types of hides and skins
Deer, doe, chamois, antelope, dog, kangaroo, rabbit and seal skins;
elk and camel hides;
ostrich skins.
Sold by weight or per skin or hide.
Total quantities of raw hides and skins processed – world leather
production
In principle, all hides and skins of animals (mainly mammals) are suitable
for leather making, if they have a sufficiently strength in fibre texture and
are large enough to ensure economic production.
Leather is mainly produced from the hides and skins of mammals which
are bred for the production of meat and milk. The hides are therefore
mainly a side product of cattle breeding and the leather producing indu-
stry is a sort of disposal for valuable waste products.
Cattle hide (cattle hides, calf skins):        65 – 70 %
Sheep and lamb skins:                          10 – 12 %
Goat and kid skins:                             8 – 10 %
Pig skins:                                      3 – 5%
Other types of skins:                           1 – 2%
Reptile and fish skins:                       below 1 %
                                                                            45
Rawstock
Cattle, sheep, goat, pig and horse inventories;
production of raw hides and skins
1. World inventory (according to FAO in March 2001)
Cattle        (including calves                  ~ 1519 million
              and water buffaloes)
              Asia                               ~  634 million
              South America                      ~  310 million
              Africa                             ~  232 million
              North and Central America          ~  161 million
              Europe                             ~  144 million
              Oceania                            ~   38 million
Sheep                                            ~ 1048 million
              Asia                               ~  408 million
              Africa                             ~  243 million
              Oceania                            ~  164 million
              Europe                             ~  142 million
              South America                      ~   75 million
              North and Central America          ~   15 million
Goats                                            ~  702 million
              Asia                               ~  467 million
              Africa                             ~  181 million
              South America                      ~   22 million
              Europe                             ~   18 million
              North and Central America          ~   14 million
              Oceania                            ~    1 million
Pigs                                             ~  928 million
Horses                                           ~   58 million
46
                                                                Rawstock
2. Global supply of hides and skins in 1995 (Numbers in millions ft2,
according to LMC International LTD. 1997)*
                                Cattle          Sheep        Goat
World                        8746             2910        1383
North America                1892               24            –
South America                2003               73           80
Europe                       2327              768          109
Asia                         1712             1321          883
Oceania                        372             390           13
Africa                         409             334          298
World’s largest cattle hide suppliers (according to FAO in March 2001)
                               Hides take off
World                           290.242.924
China                            37.387.400
USA                              35.604.000
Brazil                           31.600.000
India                            23.300.000
Argentina                        13.500.000
Russian federation               12.200.000
Australia                         8.869.600
Mexico                            6.580.000
Ukraine                           5.580.000
France                            5.430.000
Italy                             4.500.000
Germany                           4.284.600
Canada                            3.925.000
Colombia                          3.805.000
New Zealand                       3.315.000
Bangladesh                        2.956.500
South Africa                      2.790.000
* The slaughtering rates are subject to wide fluctuations. No definite
   conclusions can be drawn from them about the weight or area of the
   raw hides and skins produced, because in most statistics the slaughte-
   ring rates are not classified into mature and immature animals, calves,
   lambs and kids.
                                                                         47
Curing
Curing and disinfection of raw hides and
skins
Purpose of curing
To protect freshly flayed hides and skins from attack by micro-organisms
and render them storable for a prolonged period.
Methods of curing
1. Curing by drying
Gradual air-drying by hanging up or stretching out.
Moisture content of air-dried hides ca. 10 – 15 %.
Dried hides lose
• 55 – 60 % in weight
• up to 50 % in thickness,
• up to 12 % in area (by hanging up).
2. Salting (most frequently used at present)
a. Sprinkling with solid salt:
   Hides                         ca. 30 – 40 % of salt   calculated on
   Calf skins                    ca. 40 – 50 % of salt   green weight
   Salt uptake:                      15 – 25 %
   Loss of weight
      – calf skins:                  18 – 12 %
      – cattle, cow hides:           11 – 14 %
      – bull hides:                  12 – 18 %
   Common additives for denaturing:
      Soda ash:            minimum          3%           most commonly
      Soda cryst.:         minimum 5 – 16 %              used
      Sodium sulfate:            ca. 5 – 10 %
b. Brining:
   Suspension in brine and subsequent sprinkling with dry salt.
c. Dry-salting:
   Combination of salting and drying or predrying first and then salting
   and final drying.
48
                                                                     Curing
3. Curing by pickling:
   Mainly for dewoolled sheep skins and skivers but also for unhaired
   cattle hides and goat skins. Treatment with salt and acid.
   Amounts required:      12.5 – 15 % common salt        calculated on
                            1.5 – 2 % sulfuric acid      pelt weight
4. Short-time curing without using salt:
a. By overspraying the hides with or dipping them immediately after
   flaying in Protectol KLC 50, if necessary in conjunction with nonionic
   emulsifiers (3 – 5 days).
b. By placing the flayed hides (washed or unwashed) between slices of
   ice in container pallets (1 – 2 days).
c. Curing the hides by hanging them up in cold stores (about 14 days at
   3 °C).
Disinfection
Bactericides and fungicides are used to inhibit bacteria and mould
growth in soaking liquors and vegetable tan liquors, and on pickled pelts
and wet leathers.
                                                                         49
Water
Water
Principal substances contained in water
a. Dissolved gases
   Carbon dioxide, oxygen, nitrogen.
b. Readily soluble salts
   Chlorides of sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium and magne-
   sium sulfate.
c. Sparingly soluble salts and oxides
   Hydrogen carbonates and bicarbonates of calcium and magnesium;
   calcium sulfate, silicium, aluminium and iron compounds.
d. Organic substances
e. Suspended solids
Water hardness
The amount of calcium and magnesium compounds dissolved in the
water. According to DIN 19640 the content of alkaline earth ions. The unit
by which water hardness is measured is the milligram equivalent per litre
(mval/l).
1 mval/l = 1 mmol/Z.
(Z = absolute value of the electrochemical valence of alkaline earth ions).
                             Total hardness (TH)
                                               Permanent or
  Temporary or
                                               noncarbonate hardness
  carbonate hardness (CH)
                                               (NCH)
Consists of:                                 Consists of:
calcium- and magnesium-                      calcium- and magnesium-
hydrogen carbonates                          chlorides, -sulfates,
(= bicarbonates) and                         -silicates, -nitrates and
-carbonates.                                 -humates.
50
                                                             Water
Rating of water according to total hardness
  0– 4    German    degrees  of hardness = very soft water
  4– 8    German    degrees  of hardness = soft water
  8 – 12  German    degrees  of hardness = medium soft water
12 – 18   German    degrees  of hardness = fairly hard water
18 – 30   German    degrees  of hardness = hard water
over 30   German    degrees  of hardness = very hard water
Conversion of degrees of hardness of various countries
1 German degree of hardness ( °G)
= 1 part CaO in 100 000 parts water = 10 mg/l
= 0.357 mval/l alkaline earth ions
1 French degree of hardness ( °F)
= 1 part CaCO3 in 100 000 parts water = 10 mg/l
= 0.200 mval/l alkaline earth ions
1 English degree of hardness ( °E)
= 1 part CaCO3 in 70 000 parts water = 7 mg/l
= 0.285 mval/l alkaline earth ions
10 US degrees of hardness (p.p.m.) ( °US)
= 1 French degree of hardness
               1 °G = 1.79 °F = 1.25 °E = 17.9 p.p.m. ( °US)
p.p.m. =   parts per million
         = 1 millionth of the volume or weight
         = 1 ml per 1000 litres
         = 1 mg per 1000 grams (1 kg).
                                                                51
Water
Conversion table for German, English and French degrees of water
hardness
German    English     French    German     English   French
°G        °E          °F        °G         °E        °F
0.5       0.62         0.9        6.72      8.38     12.0
0.56      0.7          1.0        7.0       8.75     12.55
0.7       0.87         1.26       7.28      9.1      13.0
0.8       1.0          1.43       7.84      9.8      14.0
1.0       1.25         1.79       8.0      10.0      14.3
1.12      1.41         2.0        8.4      10.5      15.0
1.5       1.88         2.69       8.5      10.63     15.18
1.68      2.1          3.0        8.8      11.0      15.75
2.0       2.5          3.58       8.96     11.2      16.0
2.24      2.8          4.0        9.0      11.25     16.08
2.4       3.0          4.3        9.5      11.88     17.0
2.5       3.13         4.48     10.0       12.5      17.9
2.8       3.5          5.0      10.08      12.6      18.0
3.0       3.7          5.37     10.4       13.0      18.6
3.2       4.0          5.73     10.5       13.13     18.78
3.36      4.2          6.0      10.64      13.3      19.0
3.5       4.38         6.27     11.0       13.75     19.68
3.92      4.9          7.0      11.2       14.0      20.0
4.0       5.0          7.17     11.5       14.38     20.59
4.47      5.6          8.0      11.76      14.7      21.0
4.5       5.63         8.06     12.0       15.0      21.5
4.8       6.0          8.6      13.0       16.25     23.27
5.0       6.25         8.95     14.0       17.5      25.06
5.04      6.3          9.0      15.0       18.75     26.85
5.5       6.88         9.85     16.0       20.0      28.64
5.6       7.0         10.0      17.0       21.25     30.43
6.0       7.5         10.74     18.0       22.5      32.22
6.16      7.68        11.0      19.0       23.75     34.01
6.5       8.13        11.64     20.0       25.0      35.8
52
                                                                     Water
Water softening
1. By heating             Hardness due to carbonates is reduced to
                          about 2 German degrees of hardness.
2. By precipitation and   With lime or caustic soda: hardness due to
   separation             carbonate is reduced to about 2 German
                          degrees of hardness.
                          With soda: total hardness is reduced to
                          1 – 2 German degrees of hardness.
3. By ion exchange        With permutites, phenolic resin bases: com-
   resins                 plete desalting is achieved in most cases.
4. By complexing          With polyphosphates or organic polyacids, e. g.
   agents                 Trilon types: total hardness is removed.
Amounts of various softening agents required
For removing 1 German degree of hardness, the following approximate
amounts are required per litre:
     10 mg calcium oxide             for removing temporary hardness
                                     due to Ca(HCO3)2
 11 – 13 mg hydrated lime
     19 mg soda ash                  if calcium sulfate is present
     10 mg calcium oxide +           if magnesium sulfate is present
     19 mg soda ash
   121  mg Trilon A Liquid
   170  mg Trilon B Liquid
     80 mg Trilon B Powder           complete softening is possible
     66 mg Trilon BD
   330  mg Trilon BVT
                                                                        53
Water
Trilon types for complexing
                    Used for:
Trilon  A Liquid
Trilon  AS          softening,
Trilon  B Liquid    masking,
Trilon  B Powder    improving stability,
Trilon  BD          dissolving precipitates of hardness forming chemicals
Trilon  BS
Trilon  L Liquid
Trilon BVT          Specific iron(III)-binding capacity
Trilon FE
pH ranges for complexing with the effective substance of Trilon B
and Trilon BS
1        g sodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate or
0.77 g ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid can bind
         independent of temperature:
mg       Name         Metal ion       Chem.      pH range     Colour of the
                      valence         symbol                  complexes
  64     Magnesium    II              Mg++        8 –   12.5  colourless
                                                  8 –   13.5  colourless
105      Calcium      II              Ca++
                                                  8 –   13.5  colourless
230      Strontium    II              Sr++
                                                 10 –   13    colourless
361      Barium       II              Ba++
                                                  1.5 – 11.5  blue
167      Copper       II              Cu++
                                                  5 –   13**
                                                  4 –   13    colourless
172      Zinc         II              Zn++
                                                  3.5 – 13    colourless
296      Cadmium      II              Cd++
                                                  5 –   11    colourless
144      Manganese    II              Mn++
                                                  5 –   13*
                                                  1 –   12.5* colourless
147      Iron         II              Fe++
                                                  4 –   12    red**
155      Cobalt       II              Co++
                                                  4 –   13.5* violet***
                                                  1.5 – 13    blue
154      Nickel       II              Ni++
                                                  2 –   13.5  colourless
545      Lead         II              Pb++
                                                  2.5 – 13.5  colourless
  71     Aluminium    III             Al+++
                                                  1.5 –  5    violet
138      Chromium     III             Cr+++
                                                  1 –    5.5  yellow
147      Iron         III             Fe+++
550      Bismuth      III             Bi+++       1 –    9    colourless
*** in the presence of a reducing agent
*** at room temperature
*** when heated (retains the colour after cooling)
54
                                                                      Water
Water consumption in leather production
The amounts required vary considerably, depending on the type of
leather to be produced: for 100 kg salted weight between 1.5 and
12.0 m3 water.
a. Vegetable tannage:     3 – 6 m3 water
b. Chrome tannage:        7 – 12 m3 water
   Modern processes:      Recycling, partial recycling of water, disconti-
                          nuous rinsing operations ca. 1.5 – 4 m3 water.
Water suitable for leather production
Soaking:                  Moderate hardness is harmless; high content of
                          suspended matter or of putrefactive bacteria is
                          undesirable.
Liming:                   Hard water is harmless for white lime and
                          sulfide lime liquors, but should not be used for
                          enzyme lime liquors.
Washing after liming,     High content of carbonate is likely to cause lime
deliming and bating:      blasts and the enzymatic effect is impaired in
                          bating.
Pickling, chrome          Hard water is harmless.
tannage:
Vegetable tannage:        Hard water and iron content is harmful; calcium
                          and magnesium salts cause formation of inso-
                          luble tannin compounds; iron content gives rise
                          to grey or blue discolorations.
Dyeing, fatliquoring:     Soft, iron-free water should be used.
                                                                           55
Vessels for the beamhouse
Vessels for the beamhouse
  Filling or
  unloading door
                                      pegs
                                      or
                                      boards
                                   moving direction
                                   of hide material         2. paddle
                 1. drum
               Conventional vessels for the beamhouse
                                                      feed line for chemicals
                              filling door
                                                          1st
                                                          chamber
                                                                     2nd
                                                                     chamber
                                                             3rd
                                                             chamber
                                                    drain
                 3. mixer                        4. Y-drum (washing machine type)
                    Novel vessels for the beamhouse
56
                                       Production of pelts
              Rawstock
   cattle hides, sheep or goat skins
    Flaying of raw hides or skins
                  Curing
                Soaking
                            Prefleshing, if necessary
                          waste: fleshings, residual fat
Depilation and opening up of the skin
                    by
      painting, liming or sweating
        Unhairing, dewoolling
                              Waste: wool, hair
                Fleshing
                              Waste: offal for glue
                Splitting
                              Waste: split offal
         Deliming and bating
        Pelt ready for tanning
                                                         57
Soaking
Soaking
Purpose
Restoring the natural swollen condition of the skin and removal of dirt,
soluble proteins and curing agents.
Procedure
a. Soaking pits (mainly used for pre-soaking dried skins)
b. Paddle (careful soaking of delicate skins in long floats)
c. Drum (most commonly used method; mainly for heavy hides).
   Y-drums and mixers have lately also come into use.
Methods of accelerating soaking
a. Mechanical treatment
   Dry-drumming, breaking.
b. Temperature increase
   Temperature of soaking bath may be increased up to 28 °C. Higher
   temperatures cause undesirable degradation of protein substance.
c. Sharpening with alkalis
   • Mainly used for dried skins.
   • Commonly used chemicals: sodium sulfide, sodium hydroxide,
      sodium tetrasulfide, soda ash, Mollescal BW/soda ash.
   • Amounts required: 0.3 – 2.0 g per litre soaking liquor.
   • The pH of the float should not exceed 10.5 to 11.0, as otherwise
      undesirable swelling of the skin is likely to occur.
   • Do not use alkalis for:
      coated raw skins (insoluble magnesium hydroxide),
      dried sheep skins (wool is attacked),
      fur skins (risk of hair loosening).
58
                                                                    Soaking
d. Sharpening with acidic chemicals
   • Mainly used for dried skins.
   • Commonly used chemicals: Decaltal types, formic acid, bisulfite
      solution, sodium bisulfite.
   • Amounts required: 0.5 – 10 g per litre soaking liquor.
   • pH of float not below 4.5, as otherwise undesirable swelling of the
      skin will occur.
e. Common salt addition
   • For dried and fresh skins.
   • Amounts required: not more than 5 g/l, as otherwise swelling is
      inhibited.
f. Addition of soaking auxiliaries and wetting agents
   • Most common and safest method for all types of raw skins for
      accelerating soaking.
   • Amounts required: 0.2 – 2.0 g per litre soaking liquor.
g. Additions of enzymatic products like Basozym S 20
   Fast soaking in 4 hours is possible, pH has to be adjusted with soda
   at 10.0 – 10.2 at the beginning to reach end pH of about 9.5.
BASF soaking auxiliaries
Basozym S 20          Enzymatic soaking auxiliary for green and salted raw
                      stock. Activity ca. 2000 LVU/g, self-regulating pH.
Mollescal HW          Soaking auxiliary. Can be applied in hair-saving and
                      hair-pulping processes. Prevents the hair roots from
                      being immunized and enables hairs to be removed
                      more easily.
Mollescal BW          Soaking auxiliary. Accelerates the soaking process.
                      Can be used for salted and dried hides.
                      Offers adequate protection against bacterial attack.
Mollescal C Conc. Soaking auxiliary with a biocidal action. Especially
                      appropriate for dried hides.
                      Wetting agent. Reduces the surface tension of water,
Eusapon S
                      protects against bacterial attack and degreases
                      hides.
                      Low-foaming surfactant used to speed up the
Eusapon W
                      soaking of salted and dried skins. Can also be
                      used in paddles.
                                                                          59
Depilation, opening up the skin
Depilation and opening up the skin
Purpose
Removal of hair or wool and epidermis. Other effects obtained: loosening
up of the collagen fibre texture and partial saponification of the natural
grease (= opening up of the skin and liberation of tanning-active groups.)
The most commonly used depilation and liming methods
1. Lime painting methods
a. Painting on the flesh side (by hand or machine). Diffuse from the
   flesh side to the hair roots and loosen the hair or wool without
   seriously attacking it. Used for skins with valuable hair or wool.
   Reliming is generally necessary to open up the skin.
   Depilitants: sodium sulfide, sodium hydrosulfide, sodium tetrasulfide,
   Mollescal SF.
   Concentration: ca. 8 – 15 °Bé.
   Consistency-regulating materials: hydrated lime, kaolin, chalk, starch,
   dextrin, Corial Binder AS.
   Total density: ca. 22 – 28 °Bé
   Amounts required: 130 – 150 litres lime paint per 1000 kg hides or
   skins.
b. Painting on the grain side
   For special types of rawstock to produce a particularly smooth and
   fine grain. (The hair is completely destroyed).
c. Drum painting
   The lime paint is allowed to act first in a very short float and subse-
   quently in an extended float (transition to drum liming).
2. Liming methods
a. Pure sulfide lime liquor
   Hair is destroyed (poor opening up of the skin). For leathers with very
   flat, closed grain (glazed kid).
   Liming chemicals: sodium sulfide, sodium hydrosulfide.
   Concentration: ca. 2 – 6 °Bé.
60
                                           Depilation, opening up the skin
b. Pure white lime
   Hair loosening (strong opening up of the skin). Mainly used for reliming
   and seldom for long liming of soft leathers (gloving).
   Liming chemicals: hydrated lime powder (calcium hydroxide). Seldom
   slaked lime (lime paste).
   Concentration: 4 – 6 g hydrated lime powder per litre of lime liquor.
c. Combined sulfide and hydrated lime liquor
   Most commonly used liming process.
   Guiding formulation for lime liquors:
   120 – 400 % water
      2.0 –      4.0 % sodium sulfide conc., if required in combination with
                        sodium hydrosulfide
      1.0 –       5.0 % hydrated lime powder
d. Oxidative liming
   Hair loosening is effected by the action of chlorine dioxide.
   Poor opening up of the skin. (Seldom used method.)
   Liming chemicals: sodium chlorite in conjunction with acid.
3. BASF low pollution liming systems
a. Mollescal SF or Mollescal MF liming system
   Organic liming systems. Compared to inorganic sulfide systems,
   the Mollescal liming systems yield increased leather area and
   improved strength and grain properties (smoothness, tightness of
   grain, full flanks). Any residual Mollescal SF or Mollescal MF is oxid-
   ised by atmospheric oxygen and, therefore, no harmful substances
   are transferred into the effluent.
   Liming chemicals: Mollescal SF or Mollescal MF in conjunction with
   hydrated lime and, if necessary, pre-treatment with Mollescal HW or
   BW.
   Amounts to use: 3 – 6 % Mollescal SF/Mollescal MF in short floats
   (amounts depending on hair length). In long floats (paddle), addition of
   0.5 – 0.7 % sodium sulfide or appropriate amounts of hydrosulfide is
   necessary.
                                                                           61
Depilation, opening up the skin
b. BASF hair-saving liming system
   Controlled immunisation of the hair by alkali (hydrated lime, sodium
   sulfide/hydrosulfide), if pre-treatment is carried out in a slightly alkaline
   soak with Mollescal LS. Subsequently, the loosened or slightly
   attacked hair is filtered off.
   Advantages regarding effluent: considerable reduction of COD value,
   sulfide content, and nitrogen load as well as amounts of sludge and
   effluent volume.
   Quality improvement of pelt and leather: better loosening of scud,
   lower natural grease content, more uniform uptake and distribution of
   chrome as well as improved level-dyeing properties.
4. Enzymatic processes
a. Cold and warm sweating
   Putrefaction process brought about deliberately. Hair-loosening is
   effected by formation of enzymes and ammonia.
   Now seldom used method.
b. Enzymatic liming
   Hair-loosening is effected by addition of specific enzymes like
   Basozym L 10, which attacks the prekeratin of the roots. By this, it
   effects a better scud loosening and attack of the epidermis. Alkaline
   preplumping or reliming is necessary.
62
                                          Depilation, opening up the skin
Chemicals for depilation and liming
1. Calcium hydroxide
Starting product is quick lime (CaO), which is converted into slaked lime
(Ca(OH)2) with water.
Nowadays, mainly slaked lime is used in the form of hydrated lime pow-
der (no expenses for slaking; uniform and more accurate proportioning).
1 part quick lime is equivalent to about 3 parts slaked lime.
1 part quick lime is equivalent to 1.1 – 1.3 parts hydrated lime powder.
Density and lime content of milk of lime at 15 °C
°Bé                   g CaO                 °Bé                 g CaO
                      per litre                                 per litre
 1                      7.5                 16                  159
 2                     16.5                 17                  170
 3                     26.0                 18                  181
 4                     36                   19                  193
 5                     46                   20                  206
 6                     56                   21                  218
 7                     65                   22                  229
 8                     75                   23                  242
 9                     84                   24                  255
10                     94                   25                  268
11                    104                   26                  281
12                    115                   27                  295
13                    126                   28                  309
14                    137                   29                  324
15                    148                   30                  339
                                                                          63
Depilation, opening up the skin
Solubility of lime at various temperatures
°C                  g CaO              g Ca(OH)2
                    per litre          per litre
   0                1.30               1.72
  10                1.25               1.66
  15                1.22               1.62
  20                1.18               1.56
  25                1.13               1.49
  30                1.09               1.44
  40                1.00               1.32
  50                0.92               1.21
  60                0.82               1.08
  80                0.66               0.88
100                 0.52               0.69
Increasing the solubility of lime by addition of sugar
(molasses, glucose)
Addition of         g Ca(OH)2
% sugar             per litre (20 oC)
0                   1.56
0.5                 1.88
1.0                 2.05
1.5                 2.30
2.0                 2.73
2.5                 3.31
64
                                         Depilation, opening up the skin
2. Sodium sulfide
Sodium sulfide flakes 60 %, iron-free (best quality product)
• Na2S content:                ca. 60 %
• Available sulfur:            ca. 25 %
• Water of crystallization:    ca. 40 %
• Iron content (Fe):           less than 0.0008 % (practically iron-free).
                               High iron content – in low quality products
                               – may cause iron sulfide stains on raw-
                               stock that still contains blood.
Other available forms:
Na2S conc. block:              60 – 66 % Na2S
Na2S cryst. (Na2S · 9 H2O):    30 – 33 % Na2S
Concentrations above 3 g Na2S/litre destroy the hair.
Density in °Bé and concentration of sodium sulfide conc.
(approximate values)
°Bé                            g Na2S conc.
                               per litre
  1                              12
  2                              23
  3                              35
  4                              46
  5                              58
  6                              69
  7                              81
  8                              92
  9                            104
10                             115
11                             127
12                             138
13                             150
14                             161
15                             173
                                                                          65
Depilation, opening up the skin
3. Sodium hydrosulfide
Sodium hydrosulfide flakes, technically iron-free
• NaHS content:                ca. 70 %
• Na2S content:                ca. < 0.5 %
• Available sulfur:            ca. 40 – 41 %
• Iron content (Fe):           ca. 0.001 % (techn. iron-free)
Other available forms:
Sodium hydrosulfide liquid:    30 – 35 % NaHS
Has lower alkalinity than sodium sulfide. Used in conjunction with other
liming agents to reduce swelling and produce smoother and finer grain.
    1 g NaSH (70 %)/litre = pH 9.90
  10 g NaSH (70 %)/litre = pH 10.35
100 g NaSH (70 %)/litre = pH 10.80
Density in °Bé and concentration of Sodium hydrosulfide flakes
(approximate values)
°Bé                            g NaSH flakes
                               per litre
  1                             15.5
  2                             32
  3                             48
  4                             65
  5                             82
  6                             99
  7                            127.5
  8                            150
  9                            180
10                             209
11                             229
12                             241
13                             269.5
14                             301
15                             333.5
66
                                     Depilation, opening up the skin
Strength relation of sodium sulfide conc. and sodium hydrosulfide
flakes
Parts                       Parts
sodium sulfide conc.        sodium hydrosulfide flakes
0.25                        0.15
0.50                        0.31
0.75                        0.46
1.00                        0.61
1.25                        0.77
1.50                        0.92
1.75                        1.03
2.00                        1.23
2.25                        1.38
2.50                        1.55
2.75                        1.70
3.00                        1.84
3.25                        2.01
3.50                        2.16
3.75                        2.32
4.00                        2.47
4.25                        2.62
4.50                        2.77
4.75                        2.93
5.00                        3.04
                                                                  67
Depilation, opening up the skin
Liming and painting auxiliaries
1. Products for improving the liming effect
Mollescal AB       Liming auxiliary. Prevents pelts from swelling during
                   liming and gives cleaner pelts. Promotes the pene-
                   tration of lime and prevents the accentuation of
                   growth marks.
Mollescal LS       Auxiliary for use in hair-saving and hair-pulping liming
                   processes. Loosens hair and reduces swelling.
                   Enables the COD and sulfide content of the effluent
                   to be reduced. Performs well in combination with
                   Basozym L 10.
Mollescal MF       Liming auxiliary free of amine and sodium sulfide
                   that can be used in conventional hair destroying and
                   hair-saving liming processes. It effects very clean,
                   smooth pelts. Excellent results are obtained by com-
                   bination with the soaking and liming enzymes of the
                   BASF range. Pelts limed with Mollescal MF are the
                   ideal basis for all types of leather.
Mollescal PA       Dispersing agent for liming chemicals. Solubilizes
Liquid             lime, improves penetration, opens up the skin and
                   prevents the accentuation of growth marks.
Eusapon S          Excellent emulsifying capacity for natural skin grea-
                   ses. Reduces formation of fat stains, gives cleaner
                   pelts.
2. Products for increasing lime swelling
Common salt        Effective when used in low concentration, i. e. below
                   5 %.
Sodium hydroxide   = caustic soda, caustic soda solution.
3. Products reducing swelling
Calcium chloride
68
                                          Depilation, opening up the skin
4. Thickening agents for lime paints
Kaolin, hydrated lime, chalk, starch, potato or rice starch, dextrin, special
polymer dispersions, such as Corial Binder AS = polyacrylate.
5. Products for increasing the solubility of hydrated lime
Mollescal PA Liquid, molasses and glucose (sugary matter).
6. Lubricants
Mollescal AGN        Slip agent used to reduce the friction between pelts
                     and the walls of the drum. Helps to prevent chafe
                     marks and false backbones from forming when
                     limed, unhaired pelts are rinsed.
7. Products used in hair-saving liming systems to prevent immuni-
   sation of hair roots and fixation of short hair.
Mollescal HW         Soaking auxiliary. Can be applied in hair-saving and
                     hair-pulping processes. Prevents the hair roots from
                     being immunized and enables hairs to be removed
                     more easily.
Mollescal MF         The liming auxiliary is added in hair-saving liming
                     processes before the lime. It penetrates into the hair
                     bulb and loosens the hair, which avoids the risk of
                     immunisation of the roots.
Basozym L 10         Enzymatic liming auxiliary. Can be applied in hair-
                     saving and hair-pulping processes on all types of raw
                     stock. Loosens hair roots, helps to open up the skin
                     and makes hair and melanin easier to remove.
                     Activity ca. 1000 LVU/g. Very effective in combina-
                     tion with Mollescal LS, Mollescal MF or Mollescal AB.
                                                                          69
Deliming
Deliming
Purpose
Removal of mechanically deposited and chemically bound lime and of
capillary lime by conversion into readily soluble salts.
BASF deliming agents
Decaltal A-N              Nitrogen-free deliming agent that makes sulfi-
                          des easier to remove by catalyzing their oxida-
                          tion and contributes to increased safety. Pene-
                          trates thick pelts quickly and assists in the
                          bating process on account of its weak hydrotro-
                          pic action.
Decaltal ES-N Liquid      For nitrogen-free deliming at pH > 8. Pelts are
                          very clean and pale in colour. Has a weak
                          degreasing action.
Decaltal N/               Deliming agents with a complexing action,
Decaltal N Liquid         based on non-swelling acids. Used to dissolve
                          lime deposits and to clean pelts. Can also be
                          used in pickling.
Decaltal R                Very high dissolving capacity for lime. Especially
                          recommended for deliming unsplit hides quickly
                          in short floats.
Bascal S                  Mixture of dicarboxylic acids. Promotes the
                          action of other deliming agents. Can also be
                          used without a float or in short floats.
70
                                                                Deliming
Definition of deliming value, buffering capacity, lime dissolving
value
Deliming value          = amount of deliming agent in g necessary for
                          neutralising 1 g calcium hydroxide.
Buffering capacity      = titration according to deliming value with
                          normal caustic soda solution from pH 8.5 to
                          pH 10.5.
                          Difference = measure of buffering capacity.
Lime dissolving value = percentage of calcium hydroxide dissolved by
                          the deliming agent according to the deliming
                          value.
                        Deliming        Buffering       Lime dissolving
Product                 value           capacity        value
                        ca.             ca.             ca.
Decaltal A-N            3.6             26.5             54.5
Decaltal ES-N Liquid    1.6             –                –
Decaltal N              1.7             15.5             28.0
Decaltal N Liquid       4.5             14.6             30.0
Decaltal R              1.7             18.3             62.5
Bascal S                1.8               0.2           100.0
                                                                       71
Deliming
Strength comparison of BASF deliming agents
1 part product         Decal-    Decal- Decal- Decal- Decal- Bas-
                       tal       tal    tal    tal    tal    cal
corresponds to         A-N       ES-N   N      N      R      S
                                 Liquid        Liquid
Decaltal A-N           –         1.0    0.6    1.5    0.6    1.0
Decaltal ES-N Liquid   1.0       –      0.6    1.6    0.6    1.0
Decaltal N             1.6       1.6    –      2.6    1.0    1.0
Decaltal N Liquid      1.5       1.5    0.4    –      0.4    0.4
Decaltal R             1.0       –      1.0    2.6    –      1.0
Bascal S               1.0       1.0    0.9    2.5    0.9    –
Amounts of deliming agent required for neutralizing 1 kg CaO
3.515   kg  hydrochloric acid (37 %)
1.825   kg  sulfuric acid (96 %)
1.930   kg  formic acid (85 %)
4.280   kg  acetic acid (50 %)
7.465   kg  lactic acid (43 %)
2.210   kg  boric acid (100 %)
3.710   kg  sodium hydrogen sulfite (100 %)
1.910   kg  ammonium chloride (100 %)
2.350   kg  ammonium sulfate (100 %)
72
                                                            Deliming
Other deliming agents
Product           Effect                Properties and use
Hydrochloric acid strong deliming acid  Forms peptising CaCl2.
                                        Danger of acid swelling.
                                        Only for superficial
                                        deliming.
Sulfuric acid     strong deliming acid  Forms sparingly soluble
                                        CaSO4. Risk of stain for-
                                        mation and acid swelling.
                                        Only for superficial deli-
                                        ming.
Formic acid,      strong deliming acids Deliming effect similar to
acetic acid                             that of mineral acids.
                                        Less risk of acid swelling.
                                        Salts formed have a slight
                                        buffering effect.
Lactic acid       strong deliming acid  Milder deliming effect
                                        due to the presence of
                                        anhydrides and lactates.
                                        Finer grain.
Boric acid        weak deliming acid    Good penetration. Fixed
                                        lime is not completely
                                        removed. Fine grain.
Sodium hydrogen   weak deliming acid    Deliming and bleaching
sulfite                                 effect at the same time.
                                        Conversion of Ca(OH)2 into
Ammonium chloride weak deliming acid
                                        less plumping NH4OH and
                                        formation of peptising
                                        CaCl2.
Ammonium sulfate  weak deliming acid    Forms CaSO 4 which
                                        remains in solution in
                                        sufficiently large amounts
                                        of float.
                                                                   73
Bating
Bating
Purpose
Further loosening and peptising of the fibre texture of the skin and
elimination of alkali-swelling with the aid of specific enzymes.
Enzymes in bating agents
Enzymes are biological catalysts that accelerate the reactions without
themselves being modified. Enzymes, which act specifically on proteins,
are called proteases.
The following proteases are used as bating agents:
1. Pancreas proteases (trypsin)
2. Mould fungus proteases
3. Bacteria proteases
Bating agents with pancreas proteases (mainly used) develop their opti-
mum effect in slightly alkaline pH range (8.0 – 8.5).
Composition:
Enzymes, wood flour as carrier substance, ammonium salts, neutral salts
as buffering and deliming agents.
Bating agents with mould fungus proteases develop their best effect at
pH 3.5 – 5.0, and bating agents with bacteria proteases at pH 6.0 – 7.2.
The buffering substances in these bating agents are among others sulfi-
tes and bisulfites.
Commercial bating agents may contain a mixture of all three types of
proteases.
Influencing the bating effect
Temperature:           The rate of enzymatic reaction increases with rising
                       temperature.
Bating temperature used in practice: 30 – 37 °C.
Higher temperatures cause damage to the skin material.
Neutral salt content: Higher concentrations may reduce or inactivate the
                       bating effect.
74
                                                                         Bating
Rating of bating agents
The enzyme value is the number of enzyme units in 1 g bating agent. One
enzyme unit has the fermentative capacity to digest 1.725 mg casein.
Enzyme value                 = LVU
Enzyme unit                  = LVU x 1.725
The enzyme unit is determined according to Löhlein-Volhard by allowing
the bating agent to act upon an alkaline casein solution. Undigested
casein is precipitated with hydrochloric acid and sodium sulfate. The
alkali consumption in re-titration is a direct measure of the enzymatic
effectiveness of the bating agent.
This titration method was recently supplemented by a photometric
method with trinitrobenzene sulfonic acid (Tegewa method). Almost all
liberated amino groups are also detected after hydrolysis by proteolytic
enzymes.
Pancreas-based bating agents mainly used in practice:
1. Weak bating agents                                   = 500 – 1000 LVU
    (technical leather, harness leather)
2. Medium strong bating agents                          = 1000 – 1500 LVU
    (upper leather, lining leather, fancy leather)
3. Strong bating agents                                 = 1500 – 2000 LVU
    (glove, clothing leather)
BASF bating agents
Basozym C 10                 Bating agent based on pancreatic enzymes for
                             use on all types of leather.
                             Activity ca. 1000 LVU/g.
                             Special enzyme preparation for opening up
Basozym CS 10
                             small skins and fur skins in acid media.
                             Activity ca. 900 LVU/g.
Basozym 1000                 Universal bating agent for all types of raw stock
                             and all types of leather. Activity ca. 1000 LVU/g.
                                                                             75
Degreasing
Degreasing
Degreasing methods
1. Wet degreasing of pelts and moist leathers
   a. Squeezing out under high pressure.
   b. In drums with wetting agents or emulsifiers.
   c. In drums with fat solvents in combination with wetting agents or
      emulsifiers.
   d. Treatment with solvents in drums (economical only with
      redistillation).
2. Dry degreasing of leather
   a. Treatment with solvents alone in special degreasing plants with
      redistillation of the solvent.
   b. For cleaning leather clothing in special machines (dry cleaning) with
      solvents and, if necessary, specific detergents known as solvent
      soaps (surfactants).
Degreasing temperatures
1. For pelts                                   = 35 – 38 °C
2. Moist vegetable/synthetic tanned leather    = 40 – 45 °C
3. Moist chrome leather                        = 60 – 70 °C
76
                                                               Degreasing
The most commonly used degreasing agents*
Product                                 Boiling           Density
                                                          g/cm3
                                        point
                                        °C
Diethyl ether (ether)                    34 – 35          0.714 – 0.716
Light fractions
    Gasoline                             30 – 85          0.665 – 0.670
    Petroleum ether                      40 – 60          0.645 – 0.655
Intermediate fractions
    Extraction gasoline                  80 – 125         0.710 – 0.735
    Wash gasoline                       100 – 140         0.735 – 0.750
Heavy fraction (white spirit)           140 – 200         0.780 – 0.790
Kerosine                                150 – 270         0.730 – 0.810
Decalin                                 188 – 193         0.873 – 0.887
Tetralin                                205 – 207         0.963 – 0.973
* Safety and environmental protection rules should be observed.
BASF degreasing agent
Eusapon S                  Nonionic surfactant for degreasing hides and
                           pelts. Can be used with or without solvents.
                                                                        77
Pickling
Pickling of pelts
Purpose
The purpose of pickling is to acidify the pelts to a certain pH before
chrome tannage and thus to reduce the astringency of the chrome tan-
ning agents. Pickling is also used for preserving (cf. preservation).
Pickling methods
a. Salt-containing pickling systems
   Minimum common salt concentrations 6 °Bé, normally to be on the
   safe side 8 – 10 °Bé.
   Amount of acid or acid mixture 1 – 3 %, depending on pH and type of
   acid.
b. Low salt pickling systems
   Applied only when non-swelling, aromatic acids such as Decaltal N,
   Picaltal Flakes are used.
c. Short pickling methods
   In salt-containing and low salt pickling systems, a float length of
   50 – 150 % is used and the chrome tanning agent is added after a
   pickling time of 1 – 12 hours. When Picaltal Flakes are used, however,
   processing can be carried out in 20 – 50 % of float and the chrome
   tanning agent can be added after only 5 – 10 minutes without risk of
   precipitation or diffusion trouble.
78
                                                           Pickling
Pickling acids
Product            Density pH       Notes
                   (g/cm3) (1 : 10)
                           ca.
Formic acid
 85 %              1.195   1.65     Strong organic acid;
100 %                               masking.
Bascal S           –       2.3      Masking; improves chrome
                                    exhaustion; well suited for
                                    pickling fur skins.
Decaltal N         –       3        Masking; usually applied in
                                    combination with strong pick-
Decaltal N Liquid  –       3        ling acids; improve fineness of
                                    grain.
Acetic acid 6 °Bé  1.043   2.15     Weak organic acid.
Lactic acid 80 %   1.197   1.7      Weak organic acid.
Oxalic acid cryst. –       0.75     Strong organic acid.
Picaltal Flakes    –       0.50     Mixture of aromatic sulfonic
                                    acids; masking, filling.
Hydrochloric acid  1.188   0.20     Strong inorganic acid.
37 %                                No filling effect.
Sulfuric acid      1.835   0.15     Strong inorganic acid.
conc. 96 %
                                                                 79
Pickling
Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various acids and
deliming agents
1 part
product
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 corresponds
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 to ca.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Formic
                                                                     Formic acid 100 %
                                                                                       Bascal S
                                                                                                Bisulfite soln. 40 °Bé
                                                                                                                       Decaltal N
                                                                                                                                  Decaltal N Liquid
                                                                                                                                                    Acetic acid 6 °Bé
                                                                                                                                                                      Lactic acid 80 %
                                                                                                                                                                                       Oxalic acid cryst.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Picaltal Flakes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Hydrochlorid acid 37 %
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Sulfuric acid 96 %
                   –    1.4  6.0  4.2  5.2  3.9  2.8  1.3  3.1  2.1  1.0
acid 100 %
Bascal S           0.7  –    4.1  2.9  3.6  2.7  1.9  0.9  2.2  1.5  0.7
Bisulfite soln.    0.2  0.3  –    0.7  0.8  0.7  0.5  0.2  0.5  0.4  0.2
40 °Bé
Decaltal N         0.3  0.4  1.4  –    1.2  0.9  0.7  0.3  0.7  0.5  0.3
Decaltal N Liquid  0.2  0.3  1.1  0.8  –    0.8  0.5  0.3  0.6  0.4  0.2
Acetic acid 6 °Bé  0.3  0.4  1.5  1.1  1.3  –    0.7  0.3  0.8  0.5  0.3
Lactic acid 80 %   0.4  0.5  2.2  1.5  1.9  1.4  –    0.5  1.1  0.8  0.4
Oxalic acid cryst. 0.8  1.1  4.5  3.1  3.9  2.9  2.1  –    2.4  1.6  0.8
Picaltal Flakes    0.3  0.5  1.9  1.3  1.6  1.3  0.9  0.4  –    0.7  0.3
Hydrochloric acid  0.5  0.7  2.8  2.0  2.4  1.9  1.3  0.6  1.5  –    0.5
37 %
Sulfuric acid 96 % 1.0  1.4  5.6  4.0  4.9  3.7  2.6  1.3  3.0  2.0  –
Amount of 1 N NaOH used in titrating solutions
up to pH 7.0 in ml 4.45 6.45 26.6 18.6 23.0 17.5 12.3 5.95 14.0 9.45 4.7
80
                                                         Tanning/retanning
Tanning and retanning
Purpose of tanning
To bring about irreversible stabilization of the skin substance that is prone
to putrefaction. The object of converting pelt into leather by tanning is to
– stabilize it against enzymatic degrading and increase its resistance to
   chemicals,
– raise its shrinking temperature and increase its resistance to hot
   water,
– reduce or eliminate its ability to swell,
– enhance its strength properties,
– lower its density by isolating the fibres,
– reduce its deformability,
– reduce its shrinkage in volume, area and thickness,
– enhance the porosity of its fibre texture.
These effects are achieved by cross-linking the collagen chains with
various tanning agents.
                                                                           81
Tanning/retanning
Cross-linking reactions between skin substance and tanning
agents (schematic)
a. Vegetable tanning materials and synthetic replacement tanning agents:
    Polypeptide chain
                           Cross-linking is effected by secondary
            OH
                           valences through hydrogen bridges with
         HO
                           the phenolic OH groups of the tanning
            OH
                           agent molecule.
         HO
            OH
b. Mineral tanning agents; example: chrome tanning agent
    Polypeptide chain
              O=C
                           Cross-linking is effected by principal
                  O
           Cr              valences through coordinative bonds
                           (complex bonds) with the COOH groups
           O
                           of the collagen.
           Cr
    O
    C=O
c. Aldehyde tanning agents; example: glutaraldehyde
    Polypeptide chain
    N
         CH                Cross-linking is effected by principal
                           valences through atomic bonds (covalences)
          CH2
                           by reaction of the aldehyde and the NH2 groups
          CH2
                           of the collagen.
          CH2
          CH
                   N
d. Synthetic auxiliary tanning agents
    Polypeptide chain
       HO3S
                           No cross-linkage but secondary valence
   NH2
                           linkage by electrovalent salt bridges
                           (ion bonds) of the sulfonic acid groups
                           with the NH2 groups of the collagen.
                  H 2N
             SO3H
82
                                            Tanning/retanning
Shrinking temperature of hide and leather
                                             Maximum
Material                        Shrinking    practical use
                                temperature  temperature
                                             (wet or moist)
Skin
a. Mammal collagen fibre         62 – 64 °C   37 – 38 °C
b. Fish collagen fibre           40 – 45 °C   25 – 30 °C
Pelt                             40 – 60 °C   37 – 38 °C
Leather
Chamois leather                  65 – 70 °C        40 °C
Alum tanned leather              70 – 75 °C        45 °C
Vegetable tanned leather         70 – 85 °C        45 °C
Formaldehyde leather             80 – 85 °C        50 °C
Glutaraldehyde leather           75 – 85 °C        50 °C
Aldehyde/aluminium leather       80 – 90 °C        55 °C
Chrome leather                      100 °C    60 – 80 °C
                                                            83
Tanning/retanning
Tanning methods
1. Vegetable tannage
a. Pit tannage
b. Accelerated tannage
c. Rapid tannage (BASF RAPITAN process)
2. Mineral tannage
a. Chrome tannage (wet blue tannage)
b. Aluminium tannage
c. Zirconium tannage
3. Other tannages
a. Aldehyde tannage (wet white tannage)
b. Oil tannage (chamois)
c. Immergan A tannage
4. Combination tanning methods
The above tanning methods are used in various combinations with one
another and in different intensities to produce special leather properties.
The dominating tanning method generally determines the final leather
character.
Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest tanning methods, and it is still the
first choice for the production of some special types of leather e. g. sole
leather. Yet the most important tanning method today is chrome tanning.
Approximatly 80 % of the leather produced world wide are chrome tan-
ned. Nowadays an increasing amount of leather, especially automotive
leather, is tanned with a combination of aldehyde and synthetic/
vegetable/polymer tanning agents.
Retannages have gained special importance. They enable production to
be carried out on an industrial scale and improve the use value of
modern types of leather. Syntans, resin and polymeric tanning agents are
applied in retanning processes to adjust the character of the leather and
improve its quality.
84
                                                         Tanning/retanning
The classical division of the tanning process in Tanning      Neutralization
   Retanning is valid only for mineral tanning processes, as the low pH
after tanning has to be raised to allow an even distribution of the retan-
ning materials (vegetable, synthetic, polymeric tanning agents). In purely
organic tannages with vegetable tanning agents, syntans, aldehydes and
polymers a strict distinction between tanning and retanning is no longer
possible.
Amounts of tanning agents required for various types of leather
(Percentages on the pelt weight)
1. Vegetable/syntan tanned leathers
   Sole leather                            33 – 40 % pure  tan
   Insole leather                          25 – 30 % pure  tan
   Combination tanned bottom leather       30 – 33 % pure  tan
   Harness and technical leather           28 – 30 % pure  tan
   Bag and upholstery leather              20 – 25 % pure  tan
   Upper leather                           20 – 25 % pure  tan
   Sheep and goat skins                    15 – 20 % pure  tan
   (Light and lining leather)
   Skivers                                 12 – 18 % pure tan
2. Mineral tanned leather
                                            1 – 4 % Cr2O3
   Chrome tanned leather
   Aluminium tanned leather                 1 – 8 % Al2O3
3. Aldehyde leather                         2 – 8 % aldehyde
4. Chamois leather                         25 – 40 % fish oil
                                                                           85
Vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning
Structure of vegetable tanning agents
                         Vegetable tanning materials
       Hydrolysable tanning                      Condensable tanning
       materials (Pyrogallol)                     materials (Catechol)
(Acid-forming)                              (Phlobaphene-forming)
Oak wood                                    Quebracho
Chestnut wood                               Hemlock bark
Myrobalans                                  Mimosa bark
Valonea                                     Oak bark
Trillo                                      Uranday wood
Sumac                                       Tizera wood
Dividivi                                    Mangrove
Galls                                       Gambir
Acorn galls                                 Cutch
Tara
Pine bark (mixture of pyrogallol-catechol)
86
                                                         Vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning materials
Vegetable tannins derived from:
1. Barks, 2. Woods, 3. Fruits, 4. Leaves, Growths, 5. Roots
Abbreviations:
t = tans, nt = nontans, sm = sugary matters, is = insolubles
(amounts indicated in ca.%)
1. Barks
Oak bark                  t   10.0 (8 – 17)  Gives firm and full leather;
(Central Europe)          nt    5.5          yellow-brown colour with
                          sm 2.6             dark cut. Usually applied as
                          is 71.0            dusting material.
Pine bark                 t   12.0 (7 – 20)  High sugar content and,
(Central Europe)          nt    7.0 – 9.0    therefore, strongly acid-
                          sm 5.0             forming. Gives yellow-brown
                          is 65.0            leather with reddish cut;
                                             becomes darker.
Hemlock bark              t   10.0 (7 – 18) Gives pronouncedly reddish
(Northern USA, Canada) nt       8.0 – 10.0   leather. Only of local
                          sm –               importance.
                          is 65.0 – 70.0
Chestnut bark             t   12.0 (10 – 18) Similar in properties to oak
(Southern Europe)         nt    7.0          bark.
                          sm 5.0
                          is 64.0
Mangrove bark             t   36.0 (16 – 50) Gives reddish leather. Highly
(Tropical sea coasts)     nt 12.0 (9 – 15)   sludging.
                          sm 1.0 – 2.0       Spongy leather.
                          is 40.0 – 46.0     Of little importance.
Mimosa bark               t   36.0 (22 – 48) Gives pale leather with
(South Africa, Australia) nt    7.5          reddish tinge. Good solubility,
                          sm 2.0 (1 – 4)     nonsludging. Leather dar-
                          is 42.0            kens on exposure to light.
Bagaruwa                  t   30.0 – 35.0    Gives pale and medium firm
(West and Central Africa) nt 11.0 – 14.0     leather. Only of local
                          is 45.0 – 50.0     importance.
                                                                          87
Vegetable tanning
Maletto bark      t  42.0 (35 – 56) Readily soluble; gives
(Australia)       nt   8.0          yellowish leather colour that
                  sm 2.0            grows more reddish. For all
                  is 36.0           types of leather.
Acacia negra      t  40.0 (30 – 47) Similar in tanning effect to
(Brazil)          nt –              mimosa bark, but gives a
                  sm –              somewhat darker leather
                  is –              colour.
Birch bark        t  12.0 (7 – 18)  Strongly acid-forming. Gives
(North America,   nt   5.0 – 9.0    medium firm yellow-red
Europe, Russia)   sm 3.0 – 5.0      leather. Only of local
                  is 70.0 – 75.0    importance.
Willow bark       t  10.0 (7 – 14) Gives mild, pale leather. Only
(Northern Europe, nt   4.0 – 7.0    of local importance. For
 Russia)          sm 2.0            genuine Russian leather.
                  is 70.0 – 75.0
Redunca bark         only for       Also called myrtan extract.
(Australia)          extracts       High sugar content and,
                                    therefore, acid-forming.
Bablah (babool)   t  30.0 – 35.0    Only of little local importance.
(India, Pakistan) nt 12.0 – 15.0    Resistant to lime water.
                  sm –
                  is 40.0 – 45.0
2. Woods
Oak wood          t    6.5 (4 – 10) Strongly acid-forming. For
(Central Europe)  nt   1.5 – 2.0    firm leather. Normally used in
                  sm 1.3 – 1.5      combination with other
                  is 70.0 – 80.0    tanning materials.
Chestnut wood     t    9.0 (6 – 15) Gives firm leather of pale
(Southern Europe) nt   1.0 – 2.0    colour. Bloom-forming.
                  sm 0.6 – 1.2
                  is 65.0 – 70.0
Quebracho wood    t  20.0 (14 – 26) Reddish leather colour,
(South America)   nt   1.5 – 2.0    growing darker. Sludging,
                  sm 0.1 – 0.3      rapid tanning action,
                  is 61.0           imparts weight.
88
                                                       Vegetable tanning
Urunday wood             t  14.0 (11 – 16) Cannot be distinguished
(South America)          nt   1.0 – 3.0    analytically from quebracho;
                         sm –              gives somewhat firmer
                         is 65.0           leather and higher yield.
Tizera wood              t  20.0 – 22.0    Similar to quebracho wood.
(North Africa, Sicily)   nt   2.0 – 3.0    Of little importance.
                         sm –
                         is 60.0 – 63.0
Cutch wood                  only for       Very rapid tanning action.
(India, East Africa)        extracts       Gives soft leather of dark
                                           colour. Of local importance
                                           only.
3. Fruits/Pods
Algarobilla              t  43.0 (35 – 52) Gives soft and mild leather of
(Central and             nt 18.0 – 22.0    yellow-brown colour.
South America)           sm 6.0 – 8.0      Bloom-forming.
                         is 21.0 – 25.0
Dividivi                 t  42.0 (25 – 50) Strongly acid-forming. Gives
(Central and             nt 15.0 – 19.0    spongy, offshade leather.
South America)           sm 8.0 – 10.0     For combination tannages.
                         is 25.0 – 28.0    Bloom-forming.
Myrobalans               t  35.0 (25 – 48) Strongly sludging. Mainly for
(India, South East Asia) nt 14.0 – 17.0    combination tannages.
                         sm 5.0 – 8.0      Gives soft leather.
                         is 20.0 – 40.0
Tara (Teri)              t  35.0 – 56.0    Gives soft and pale leather.
(South America, India)   nt 15.0 – 22.0    At present mainly used for
                         sm –              automotive and upholstery
                         is 10.0 – 33.0    leather due to high light- and
                                           heat-resistancy.
Valonea, Trillo          t  20.0 – 50.0    Gives tough, pale and firm
(South Eastern Europe,   nt   8.0 – 13.0   leather with dark cut.
Asia minor)              sm 3.0 – 4.0      Bloom-forming.
                         is 33.0 – 47.0
                                                                        89
Vegetable tanning
4. Leaves, growths
Galls                  t  60.0 – 77.0    Of no importance for tanning;
(China, Japan, Turkey,                   for production of tanning
North Africa)                            acid.
Gambir                    only for       Extract sparingly soluble.
(India, China,            extract        Gives soft, pale, extensively
South East Asia)                         lightfast leather.
Acorns                 t  30.0           Gives tough, firm leather of
(Yugoslavia, Hungary)  nt  7.5           brown-grey colour.
                       sm 0.5 – 1.0
                       is 46.0 – 50.0
Sumac leaves           t  28.0 (22 – 35) Gives soft and supple leather
(Mediterranean         nt 14.0 – 15.0    of pale colour. High
countries)             sm 4.0 – 5.0      lightfastness. For fancy
                       is 48.0 – 50.0    leathers.
5. Roots
Badan                  t  17.0 – 20.0    Of little local importance
(Russia)               nt 18.0 – 21.0    (extract production).
Canaigre               t  18.0 – 25.0    Of little importance (tanning
(Mexico, Algeria)      sm 3.0 – 6.0      material of American Indians).
Taran, Kermek          t  16.0 – 22.0    Of little local importance.
(Russia, Turkey)       nt  9.0 – 11.0
                       sm 2.0 – 5.0
90
                                                           Vegetable tanning
Vegetable tannin extracts (liquid, solid, powder)
Abbreviations:
t = tans, nt = nontans, is = insolubles, w = water, a = ash,
tts = tans in total solubles
(Percentages indicated are approximate values)
                  °Bé t              nt    is        w      a     pH        tts
Pine bark
extract – liquid  20    30 (16 – 34) 16    1.5       53     3 – 4 4.3       65
         – powder –     54 (52 – 57) 33    3.0       10     2.5 4.3         62
Mimosa (bark)
extract – liquid  25    35 (27 – 46) 11    0.5       54     3.5   5.0       76
         – solid  –     63 (58 – 70) 16    1.0       20     3.0   5.0       80
         – powder –     75 (70 – 78) 18    1.0        7     2.5   5.0       81
Mangrove (bark)
extract – liquid  24    32 (28 – 36) 8     1.0       59     2.5   5.4       80
         – solid  –     58 (56 – 70) 17    1.0       25     5.0   5.4       78
         – powder –     75 (70 – 78) 18    0.5        7     3.5   5.4       81
Redunca (myrtan)
extract – solid   –     60 (60 – 70) 20    10        10     4.5   4.0       75
Oak wood
extract – liquid  25    27 (20 – 39) 13    0.5       60     2.5   3.5       67
         – solid  –     61 (57 – 68) 21    1.0       17     2.5   3.5       74
         – powder –     73 (65 – 75) 21    1.0        5     2.5   3.5       78
Chestnut wood
extract – liquid  27    34 (22 – 46) 9     0.5       56     0.5   3.3       79
         – solid  –     66 (50 – 81) 12    0.4       22     1.5   3.3       84
         – powder –     73 (65 – 83) 21    0.2        6     1.5   3.3       78
Tara
extract – liquid  –     75 (67 – 83) 12-19 0.5 – 5.3 4 – 8 –      3.4 – 3.9 –
         – powder –     63 (58 – 68) 22    0.5 – 0.8 3 – 9 4 – 7 3.2 – 3.6 72
Quebracho ordinary
extract – liquid  22 35 (30 – 40) 3        3.0       59     0.5   5.0       90
         – solid  –     65 (57 – 74) 5     8.0       22     1.0   5.0       93
Quebracho sulfited
(hot- – solid     –     72 (68 – 76)  8    0.0       20     4.0   5.5       90
soluble)
                                                                              91
Vegetable tanning
                  °Bé t            nt  is  w  a   pH  tts
Quebracho sulfited
(cold- – solid    –   70 (65 – 73) 11  0.0 19 6.0 6.0 86
soluble) – powder –   82 (78 – 84) 8   0.1 10 4.5 5.5 91
Myrobalans
extract – liquid  22  26 (24 – 30) 9   1.0 64 1.5 3.0 74
         – solid  –   60 (57 – 65) 16  2.0 22 3.0 3.0 79
         – powder –   70 (68 – 74) 18  2.0  8 3.0 3.0 80
Valonea (valex)
extract – liquid  25  30 (24 – 34) 8.5 0.5 61 2.0 3.8 78
         – powder –   68 (58 – 64) 22  0.5 10 5.0 3.8 76
Sumac
extract – liquid  26  25 (24 – 30) 13  0.5 61 1.0 4.0 66
         – powder –   62 (58 – 64) 30  1.0  7 4.5 4.0 68
Gambir blocks
extract – solid   –   40 (36 – 51) 14  8.0 38 3.5 4.3 74
Gambir cubes
extract – solid   –   50 (48 – 55) 17  12  21 4.5 4.7 75
Cutch
extract – solid   –   50 (45 – 52) 23  11  16 –   –   68
92
                                                    Vegetable tanning
BASF products supporting vegetable tanning systems
Bastamol K           Fixing agent used to fix all types of anionic
                     tanning agents. Reduces the water absorption
                     of vegetable-tanned leather and the loss by
                     washing. Enhances the colour of the leather
                     and its perspiration resistance.
Basyntan I/          Tanning agents that can be used to accelerate
Basyntan IZ          vegetable tannages and to enhance the colour
                     of the leather. They can increase the yield.
                     Basyntan I:      Conc.: 96 %, pH ca. 3.8
                     Basyntan IZ:. Conc.: 92 %, pH ca. 4
Basyntan N           Very appropriate for all types of soft, full leather.
                     Conc.: 95 %, pH ca. 4
Basyntan RS-3        Pretanning agent applied prior to vegetable
                     tanning. Accelerates the penetration of
                     vegetable tanning agents and gives pale
                     leathers with a fine grain. Conc.: 96 %
Basyntan TM Liquid   Pretanning agent for lightening the colour of
                     vegetable-tanned leather. Conc.: ca. 45 %
Relugan RV           Very effective in combination with vegetable
                     tanning agents. Speeds up vegetable tanning
                     processes, improves the fullness of the leather
                     and bleaches its colour.
Tamol M/Tamol MB     Dispersing agents used to speed up the uptake
                     and improve the distribution of vegetable
                     tanning agents.
                                                                       93
Mineral tanning
Mineral tanning
Structure of mineral tanning agents
           Polybases                                   Polyacids
               =                                            =
    Chrome tanning agents                           Phosphoric acid
  Aluminium tanning agents                           tanning agents
   Zirconium tanning agents                   Silicic acid tanning agents
BASF mineral tanning agents
1. Chrome tanning agents
Chromitan B             Ready-to-use chromium(III) salt,
                        ca. 25 % Cr2O3, ca. 33 % basicity.
Chromitan FM            Lightly masked chrome tanning agent with a
                        buffering effect. Uniform composition, alkali-
                        free. Ca. 24 % Cr2O3, ca. 40 % basicity.
Chromitan FMS           Self-basifying, lightly masked chrome tanning
                        agent, ca. 24 % Cr2O3, ca. 48 % basicity. Gives
                        even cleaner effluent, and enables greater
                        savings in chrome to be made. Less chrome is
                        liberated when leathers are retanned with syn-
                        tans.
Chromitan MSN           Self-basifying chrome tanning agent. Uniform
                        composition, alkali-free. Ca. 21 % Cr 2O3,
                        ca. 50 % basicity.
94
                                                       Mineral tanning
2. Aluminium tanning agents
Lutan BN              Aluminium tanning agent, ca. 16 % Al2O3,
                      ca. 50 % basicity.
Lutan FN              Complexed aluminium tanning agent for white
                      leathers and wool skins, ca. 17 % Al2O3,
                      ca. 20 % basicity.
3. Zirconium tanning agent
Lutan DZ              Used in retannages for chrome-tanned leathers
                      to reduce their stretchiness and to improve the
                      tightness of the grain without making the grain
                      coarse.
                      Also used to fix water repellents to waterproof
                      leathers.
4. Combination tanning agent aluminium/chrome
Lutan CRN             Aluminium tanning agent containing chrome.
                      For tanning white leathers and retanning
                      chrome-tanned leathers. Promotes the pene-
                      tration of mineral tanning agents, consolidates
                      the fibre structure, and gives a tighter grain,
                      better response to dyeing and a fine, short nap.
                      Ca. 14 % Al2O3, ca. 3.0 % Cr2O3;
                      ca. 20 % basicity.
5. Combination tanning agent chrome/syntan
Basyntan E            Synthetic retanning agent containing chrome.
                      Gives leathers with a soft handle and a smooth
                      grain. Levels the shade of dyed leather without
                      lightening it to any extent.
                                                                      95
Mineral tanning
Amounts of mineral tanning agents in % for x% Cr2O3 or Al2O3
Product         % Cr2O3 or Al2O3
                0.5      1.0     1.5     2.0     2.5      3.0
Chromitan B     1.9      3.8      5.7      7.7    9.6     11.5
Chromitan FM    2.0      4.0      6.0      8.0   10.0     12.0
Chromitan FMS   2.1      4.2      6.3      8.4   10.4     12.5
Chromitan MSN 2.4        4.8      7.2      9.5   11.9     14.3
Chrome alum     3.3      6.6     10.0    13.2    16.4     20.0
Lutan BN        2.2      4.3      6.5      8.7   10.9     13.0
Lutan FN        2.8      5.6      8.3    11.1    13.9     16.7
Lutan CRN       2.8      5.6      8.3    11.1    13.9     16.7
(Al2O3 + Cr2O3)
96
                                                         Mineral tanning
Other mineral tanning salts
Chrome alum            KCr(SO4)2 · 12 H2O; 15.2 % Cr2O3 content.
                       For special one-bath tannages.
                       [Cr(H2O)6] (CH3COO)3; 30 % Cr2O3 content.
Chromium acetate
(violet)               Special aftertreatment dyeing auxiliary (glove
                       leather).
                       CrCl3 · 6 H2O; 28.4 % Cr2O3 content.
Chromium chloride
Chromium sulfate       Cr2(SO4)3 · 18 H2O; 21.2 % Cr2O3 content.
                       Starting product for the production of chrome
                       tanning agents.
                       K2Cr2O7; 51.7 % Cr2O3 content.
Potassium dichromate
                       Initial product for the production of chrome
                       tanning agents. Toxic product (carcinogenic).
                       Na2Cr2O7 · 2 H2O; ca. 50 % Cr2O3 content.
Sodium dichromate
                       Initial product for the production of chrome
                       tanning agents. Toxic product (carcinogenic).
                       AlCl3 · 6 H2O; ca. 22 % Al2O3 content.
Aluminium chloride
Aluminium sulfate      Al2(SO4)3 · 18 H2O; 15.3 % Al2O3 content.
Potash alum            KAI(SO4)2 · 12 H2O; 10.8 % Al2O3 content.
                       Now only of little significance. Product has only
                       low binding stability. For special use in combi-
                       nation with other mineral tanning agents.
                       Zr(SO4)2 or the 50 % basic salt
Zirconium sulfate
                       Zr(OH)2SO4
                       For special tannages and retannages.
                                                                       97
Mineral tanning
Basicity
The basicity of a mineral tanning agent is the proportion of hydroxyl
groups (OH groups) in the molecule, calculated on the total valences of
chromium, aluminium or other complexing mineral tanning salts. The
tanning power of low basicity products is weak; it is adjusted to the
optimum basicity range of 33 % to 66 % by addition of alkalis.
The basicity is specified in
% (percent)                   = basicity according to Schorlemmer
1/12 (twelfth)                = Freiberger basicity (seldom used)
Basicity in percent           Basicity in twelfths
 0                =           0/12
 8.33             =           1/12
16.66             =           2/12
25.00             =           3/12
33.33             =           4/12
41.66             =           5/12
50.00             =           6/12
58.33             =           7/12
66.66             =           8/12
With increasingly higher basicity, most commercial chrome tanning
agents begin to flocculate; unmasked chromium sulfates, for instance,
already at a basicity of 50 %. With aluminium tanning salts it is still more
difficult to prepare highly basic complex salts.
General formula for calculating the basicity increase
    (x-a) · g Cr2O3/litre · factor = g alkali/litre
x = basicity desired
a = basicity present
Factors of common alkalis:
soda ash (100 %)                    = 0.02092
soda crystals                       = 0.05647
sodium hydrogen carbonate           = 0.03316
sodium hydroxide (50 %)             = 0.03158
magnesium oxide (water-free)        = 0.00796
98
                                                            Mineral tanning
Basicity increase (general)
(Figures indicate amount of basifier in gram)
With                         Increase         1000 g         1000 g
                             by               chromium       Chromitan B
                                              oxide (Cr2O3)
Soda ash                     1/12             177            45.0
                             1%                20.9           5.4
Sodium bicarbonate           1/12             295            75.5
                             1%                33.2           8.5
Neutrigan                    1/12             300            78.0
                             1%                36.0           9.4
Magnesium oxide              1/12              67            17.6
                             1%                 8.0           2.1
General formula for determining the basicity reduction
     x · g Cr2O3/litre · factor = g acid/litre
x = basicity reduction desired in%
Factors of most commonly used acids:
sulfuric acid (96 %)              = 0.02016
formic acid (100 %)               = 0.01817
formic acid (85 %)                = 0.02137
hydrochloric acid (37 %)          = 0.03890
oxalic acid (100 %)               = 0.01777
Basicity reduction (general)
(Figures indicate amounts of acid in gram)
With                         Reduction        1000 g         1000 g
                             by               chromium       Chromitan B
                                              oxide (Cr2O3)
Sulfuric acid (96 %)         1/12             167.8          43.6
                             1%                20.2           5.2
Hydrochloric acid (37 %) 1/12                 323.8          84.2
                             1%                38.9          10.1
Formic acid (85 %)           1/12             177.9          46.2
                             1%                21.4           5.6
                                                                         99
Mineral tanning
Masking of chrome tanning agents
Masking refers to the entering of acid radicals (usually organic acids) into
the mainly used chromium sulfate complexes. The properties of the
chrome liquors and that of the resultant leather can be influenced by
appropriate masking, e. g.:
With regard to the tanning agent:
   Reduction of astringency
   Increase of the resistance to alkalis (flocculation)
   Increase of the penetration rate.
With regard to the leather:
   Improvement of fullness
   Increase of shrinking temperature
   Improvement of grain pattern and smoothness
   Modification of handle
   Improvement of vertical chrome distribution
   Lightening of leather colour.
Masking agents with increasing complex affinity
Chlorate    nitrate    chloride     sulfate   sulfite   rhodanate
formate    acetate     adipinate     sulfophthalate
succinate     tartrate
glycolate   phthalate      sulfosalicylate    maleinate
malonate     lactate    citrate    resorcylate     oxalate  hydroxide
(Each succeeding anion displaces the preceding one from the chromium
complex).
100
                                                             Mineral tanning
The principal masking agents
Implenal AP               Strongly filling, fine grain.
Implenal DC Liquid        Filling, fine, tight grain. Improves chrome ex-
                          haustion and fixation.
Implenal DN               Like Implenal DC Liquid with additional
                          buffering effect.
Bascal S                  Improves chrome exhaustion in tan bath.
Decaltal N                Filling, bleaching, fine grain.
Neutrigan                 Filling, fine grain. Can inhibit the formation of
                          Cr(VI).
Sodium formate            Fine grain, improves penetration of tanning
                          agents.
Calcium formate           Less fine grain, accelerates penetration of
                          tanning agents.
Sodium acetate            Pale leather colour, gives comparatively flat
                          leathers.
Sodium bisulfite          Filling, less fine grain.
Sodium sulfite            Filling, green leather colour.
Polymethaphosphate        Filling, fine grain.
Reduced chrome liquors prepared from potassium or sodium
dichromate
Principle
Potassium and sodium dichromate are salts of hexavalent chromium and
have no tanning effect. They are reduced with reducing agents in the
presence of mineral acids to chromium(III) salts that possess tanning
properties.
                                                                           101
Mineral tanning
Precautionary measures in preparing chrome liquors
All soluble chrome(IV) compounds are liver and kidney poisons and may
be carcinogenic. Very strict safety measures have to be observed in
handling dichromates, e. g. the wearing of protective clothing, work-
gloves, workshoes and respirators to protect against dust and spray
mists.
Principal reducing agents
Inorganic products: sulfur dioxide (gaseous), sodium thiosulfate, sodium
                     hydrogen sulfite, sodium sulfite.
Organic products: glucose, cane or grape sugar, molasses, sulfite
                     waste liquor, sawdust or chrome shavings.
Theoretical calculation of basicity of reduced chrome liquors
(Schorlemmer)
   B = 133.3 – S
B = basicity, S = kg sulfuric acid for 100 kg potassium dichromate
Amounts of products required for preparing reduced chrome
liquors
According to practical experience, the following amounts of reducing
agents and acids are required for preparing a chrome liquor of 33.3 %
basicity (Schorlemmer):
Per 100 kg sodium or potassium dichromate
+          30 kg glucose (technical grade)
+ 95 – 100    kg sulfuric acid conc.
or
+          35 kg molasses
+ 90 – 100    kg sulfuric acid conc.
or
+ 110 – 130   kg sodium thiosulfate
+ 80 – 90     kg sulfuric acid conc.
or
+ 70 – 75     kg sulfur dioxide (gaseous)
102
                                                            Mineral tanning
Depending on the concentration desired, the amount of water required
varies between 250 and 500 litres.
The degree of masking of the reduced chrome liquors obtained depends
on the order in which the chemicals are added.
The procedures preferred in practice are as follows:
Weaker masking            = dichromate/sulfuric acid       + reducing agent
Stronger masking          = dichromate/reducing agent + sulfuric acid
Special BASF tanning auxiliaries
Neutrigan MON             Self regulating basifying agent. This product
                          prevents large variations in pH, ensures very
                          even chrome distribution, and gives a tight,
                          smooth, fine grain.
Mollescal AGN             High molecular weight, water-soluble copoly-
                          mer. Used as a lubricant in wet processes of
                          leather production to reduce friction and thus
                          also the tendency to tangling and knotting as
                          well as the risk of pieces of material being torn
                          off and abrasion marks being formed especially
                          when processing in short floats.
Tamol GA                  Neutralizing agent for all types of chrome-tan-
                          ned leather. Improves the softness and fullness
                          of the leather and the elasticity of the grain.
                          Enhances the nap on suede. Gives more level
                          shades when dyed, speeds up vegetable
                          retannages.
Tamol NNOL                Tanning auxiliary with a neutralizing, retanning
                          and levelling action. Especially appropriate for
                          white leathers and leathers dyed to pale shades
                          that are required to have high lightfastness.
                                                                          103
Mineral tanning
Flow chart of chrome leather tanning
                                  Pelt
                                Pickling
                                Tanning
                               Basifying
                       Conditioning of wet blue
                                Sorting
                                     Chrome leather trimmings – waste
                               Samming
                                Shaving
                                            Shavings – waste
           Further processing in the various types of leather
104
                                                    Other tanning methods
Other tanning methods
Wet white tannage
Definition:                Contrary to wet blue
   Variation A: Free of heavy metals and aluminium salts.
   Variation B: Free of chromium, but Al, Zr, Ti, Fe are accepted.
Wet white made by pure organic tanning has gained more and more
importance in the recent years. In this process the wet white is produced
by combinations of:
   Aldehydes
   Syntans and vegetable tanning agents
   Polymers
   Auxiliaries
The properties of the leather are adjusted mainly by the amount and type
of syntan used and by the process parameters.
A wide variety of different types of leather are thus available, e. g.:
   Automotive leathers
   Upholstery leather
   Garment leather
   Shoe upper leather
Shavings and cuttings of wet white leather are free of chrome.
Selected BASF products for wet white leather
Basyntan DLX-N             Lightfast syntan with a strong tanning action
                           and high fastness. Especially appropriate for
                           tanning wet white and reptile skins, and for
                           retanning white leathers and other types of
                           leather with high lightfastness and heat
                           resistance.
                                                                         105
Other tanning methods
Basyntan SW Liquid    Basyntan SW Liquid is a very effective pretan-
                      ning and tanning agent for wet white, especially
                      for automotive leather. It also performs just as
                      effectively as a wet blue retanning agent for all
                      types of automotive and upholstery leather, and
                      for garment, shoe and white leathers. The
                      retanned leather has a fine, tight grain and can
                      be dyed to brilliant, level shades.
Relugan GT 50/        A 50 % and a 24 % solution of glutaraldehyde.
Relugan GT 24         Can be used for all types of leather as pre- or
                      retanning agent or as the sole tanning agent.
                      High dispersing capacity for natural fatty
                      substances. Give soft, perspiration-resistant
                      leathers.
Relugan GTW           Modified glutaraldehyde. Gives leathers with
                      high lightfastness and a fine, flat grain. Makes
                      leathers easier to dye, and enables them to be
                      dyed to intense shades.
Relugan GTP           New aldehyde pre- and retanning agent with a
                      more pleasant odour. Very effective for use on
                      wet white. Can be used to retan chrome-tanned
                      leathers in order to give soft leathers with a
                      smooth grain, a good response to dyeing and
                      excellent washfastness and perspiration resis-
                      tance.
Relugan GX            Odourless aldehyde tanning agent used to
                      support pretannage of wet white leather and to
                      retan chrome-tanned leather as well as wet
                      white leather. Gives soft leathers that can be
                      dyed to very level, brilliant shades. Excellent
                      resistance to yellowing, which enables it to be
                      used for white leather and leather dyed to pas-
                      tel shades. Can also be used to wet back crust
                      without any ammonia having to be used.
Relugan RE            Improves the fullness and softness of retanned
                      leather.
106
                                                    Other tanning methods
Relugan RF                 Can be used in tannages and retannages for
                           chrome-tanned and wet white tanned leathers
                           to improve fullness and lightfastness of the
                           leather and the tightness of the grain. Boosts
                           the exhaustion of chrome.
Relugan RV                 Relugan RV improves the fullness of chrome-
                           tanned and wet white tanned leathers and
                           the tightness of the grain, and reduces their
                           elasticity.
                           Very effective in combination with vegetable
                           tanning agents. Speeds up vegetable tanning
                           processes, improves the fullness of the leather
                           and bleaches its colour.
Relugan SE                 Excellent alternative to conventional syntans.
                           Mainly used to retan leathers that are required
                           to have high lightfastness, high heat resistance
                           and a fine and tight grain.
Important parameters in wet white tanning:
–  Thorough deliming and bating of the pelts
–  Intensive washing
–  Pickling through cross section
–  Type and concentration of aldehyde
–  pH
–  Running time
–  Basificaion
–  Use of syntans
For further information on wet white tanning regard the following publica-
tion: G. Wolf, M. Breth, J. Carle and G. Igl, JALCA Vol. 96, p. 111, 2001.
                                                                         107
Other tanning methods
Flow chart of wet white tanning
                                     Pelt
                               Deliming/Bating
                             Pickling/Pretanning
                             Samming/Shaving
                                                Shavings – waste
                                 Tanning with:
  Vegetable, synthetic and polymer                     Chrome
            tanning agents
             Further processing in the various types of leather
Oil tannage
This is a very special tanning method imploying unsaturated oils for an
extremely soft leather called chamois leather.
BASF Oil tanning agent
                           Oil tanning agent for soft, white leathers such
Immergan A
                           as glove leathers and garment leathers, which
                           are expected to be tear-resistant and washable.
                           Can be used in combination with fish oil and
                           Relugan GT 50/GT 24 for tanning chamois
                           leather; and with Lutan BN for glacé-kid type
                           glove leathers.
108
                                                             Neutralization
Neutralization (deacidification) of leather
Purpose
Removal of free acids present in mineral tanned leather or formed in the
leather during storage. For this purpose, mild auxiliaries are used which
do not cause damage to the leather fibre.
This process should be more correctly called deacidification and not neu-
tralization, because the treatment of the leather is seldom extended to
the neutral point.
Procedure
Neutralization is carried out according to the type of leather to be
produced. Intensive neutralization throughout the whole cross-section is
necessary for the production of soft leathers and neutralization to only a
certain depth for firmer leathers.
Instead of using alkalis, the leathers are in some cases treated only with
lightly neutralizing syntan-like auxiliaries.
Overneutralizing should always be avoided, as otherwise a coarse loose
grain and an empty handle are obtained.
                                                                        109
Neutralization
Neutralizing agents (general)
Product                pH          Properties
Soda                   10.8 – 11.2 Risk of overneutralization,
(sodium carbonate)                 because of superficial action. No
                                   thorough uniform neutralization
                                   even after prolonged treatment.
Sodium bicarbonate     7.8 – 8.1   Good penetrative effect. Risk of
(sodium hydrogen                   overneutralization only when large
carbonate)                         amounts are used. Do not dissolve
                                   above 35 °C, because otherwise
                                   soda formation.
Borax                  9.0 – 9.2   Risk of overneutralization similar
                                   to use of soda. Acts somewhat
                                   milder at the beginning but on
                                   prolonged treatment the alkali
                                   effect is higher than that of soda.
Ammonium               8.0 – 8.2   Particularly penetrative neutralizing
bicarbonate                        effect. Risk of overneutralization
                                   cannot be completely excluded.
Sodium sulfite         7.8 – 8.0   Mild neutralizing agent with
                                   uniform penetrative power.
Sodium thiosulfate     6.5 – 7.0   Poor neutralizing effect, therefore
                                   used in large amounts. Bleaches
                                   leather by deposition of sulfur.
Sodium acetate         8.0 – 8.2   Mild neutralizing agent with
                                   bleaching effect.
Calcium formate        6.5 – 7.5   Mild neutralizing agent.
                                   Neutralizing effect is not very
                                   strong. Formation of calcium
                                   sulfate may cause trouble.
Sodium formate         7.5 – 9.5   Rapidly penetrating mild neutrali-
                                   zing agent. No overneutralization
                                   even if large amounts are used.
110
Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various alkalis and
neutralizing agents
1 part
product
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          corresponds
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          to ca.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Ammonia
                                                                Ammonia (25 %)
                                                                               Ammonium bicarbonate
                                                                                                    Borax (10 H2O)
                                                                                                                   Sodium acetate
                                                                                                                                  Sodium bicarbonate
                                                                                                                                                     Sodium formate
                                                                                                                                                                    Sodium hydroxide (solid)
                                                                                                                                                                                             Sodium sulfite
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Neutralization
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Sodium thiosulfate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Neutrigan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Soda ash
             –    1.16 2.8  1.21 1.24 1.0  0.59 1.85 3.65 2.2   0.78
(25%)
Ammonium     0.86 –    2.41 1.04 1.06 0.86 0.51 1.59 3.14 1.87 0.67
bicarbonate
Borax        0.36 0.41 –    0.43 0.44 0.36 0.21 0.66 1.3  0.78 0.28
(10 H2O)
Sodium       0.83 0.96 2.33 –    1.02 0.83 0.49 1.54 3.03 1.8   0.65
acetate
Sodium       0.81 0.94 2.27 0.98 –    0.81 0.48 1.5  2.95 1.76 0.63
bicarbonate
Sodium       1.0  1.16 2.8  1.21 1.24 –    0.59 1.85 3.65 2.2   0.78
formate
Sodium       1.7  1.98 4.77 2.05 2.1  1.7  –    3.15 6.2  3.7   1.33
hydoxide
(solid)
Sodium       0.54 0.63 1.51 0.65 0.67 0.54 0.32 –    1.97 1.17 0.42
sulfite
Sodium       0.27 0.32 0.77 0.34 0.34 0.27 0.16 0.51 –    0.6   0.21
thiosulfate
Neutrigan    0.46 0.53 1.28 0.57 0.57 0.46 0.27 0.85 1.68 –     0.36
Soda ash     1.28 1.49 3.6  1.58 1.58 1.28 0.75 2.38 4.68 2.79 –
                                                                111
Neutralization
BASF neutralizing agents
Neutrigan             Complex-forming neutralizing agent and mild
                      basifying agent which gives full leathers with a
                      tight grain that respond well to dyeing.
                      Can prevent formation of Cr(VI).
Basyntan FC           Auxiliary tanning agent with a bleaching action
                      and an excellent dispersing effect. Can be used
                      to neutralize and retan chrome-tanned leathers
                      with a sensitive grain and in vegetable tanning.
Tamol GA              Neutralizing agent for all types of chrome-tan-
                      ned leather. Improves the softness and fullness
                      of the leather and the elasticity of the grain.
                      Enhances the nap on suede. Gives more level
                      shades when dyed, speeds up vegetable retan-
                      nages.
Tamol M/Tamol MB      Dispersing agents used to speed up the uptake
                      and improve the distribution of vegetable
                      tanning agents. These products promote the
                      penetration of dyes through chrome-tanned
                      leather and give more level shades.
Tamol NA              The excellent buffering capacity of Tamol NA
                      promotes the neutralization of chrome-tanned
                      leather. It can be employed in retannages to
                      disperse retanning agents and dyes, and the
                      leather can be dyed to brilliant, level shades.
                      Reduces the formation of chromium(VI).
Tamol NNI             Dispersing and levelling agent. Promotes the
                      penetration of dyes through chrome-tanned
                      leather and wet white leather and gives more
                      level shades.
Tamol NNOL            Tanning auxiliary with a neutralizing, retanning
                      and levelling action. Especially appropriate for
                      white leathers and leathers dyed to pale shades
                      that are required to have high lightfastness.
112
                                                                    Retanning
Retanning
The following product groups were developed for retanning chrome tan-
ned leather and are still mainly used for this purpose. Yet some of them
have a strong affinity to the collagen and are therefore increasingly used
in metal free combination tannages.
Structurs of aromatic and aliphatic retanning agents
                           Aromatic tanning agents
    Phenolic tanning agents                    Non-phenolic tanning agents
   Replacement tanning agents                     Auxiliary and
   White-tanning agents                           bleach-tanning agents
   Pretanning and retanning agents
                          Aliphatic tanning materials
                               Polycondensation
   Aldehyde tanning                                   Paraffin derivatives and
                              and polymerisation
         agents                                                  fats
                                  compounds
Formaldehyde               Methylol urea              Paraffin sulfochloride
Glutaraldehyde             Methylol melamine          Fatty alcohol
Dialdehyde starch          Methylol dicyandiamide     Fish oil
                           Diisocyanate
                           Acrylates
                                                                           113
Retanning
Some basic constituents of synthetic tanning agents
                                             OH
       Phenol
       Dihydroxydiphenyl sulfone       OH                      OH
                                                 – SO2 –
       Naphthalene
       ß-Naphthol                                        OH
       Aromatic ether                            –O–
These basic constituents are attached to one another with the aid of
formaldehyde through methylene bridges. They are adjusted to the
optimum degree of condensation (binuclear and trinuclear), made water-
soluble by sulfonation or sulfomethylation and adapted by means of buf-
fering systems to meet application requirements.
114
                                                               Retanning
BASF synthetic tanning and retanning agents
1. Pretanning agents
Basyntan RS-3          Pretanning agent applied prior to vegetable tan-
                       ning. Accelerates the penetration of vegetable
                       tanning agents and gives pale leathers with a
                       fine grain. Conc.: 96 %
Basyntan TM Liquid     Pretanning agent for lightening the colour of
                       vegetable-tanned leather. Can also be used for
                       deacidification and as a retanning agent for
                       lightening the colour of chrome-tanned leather.
                       Conc.: ca. 45 %
2. Synthetic tanning agents and retanning agents
Basyntan AN/           For retanning leathers that are intended to be
Basyntan AN Liquid     dyed to full, intense shades. Can be combined
                       with chrome and aluminium tanning agents.
                       Basyntan AN:              Conc.: 95 %,
                                                 pH ca. 3.7
                       Basyntan AN Liqu.:        Conc.: ca. 41 %,
                                                 pH ca. 4
Basyntan ANF Liquid    Gives level dyeings with high coverage, with
                       little bleaching of the shade. Retanning agent
                       with a medium filling action. Conc.: ca. 37 %,
                       pH ca. 5.2
Basyntan D             For retanning chrome-tanned leather. Gives
                       high fullness. Conc.: 96 %, pH ca. 4.2
Basyntan DLE/          All-round tanning agents for full, soft leathers.
Basyntan DLE-T Liquid Basyntan DLE:              Conc.: 96 %,
                                                 pH ca. 3.3
                       Basyntan DLE-T Liqu. Conc.: ca. 40 %,
                                                 pH ca. 3.9
                                                                      115
Retanning
Basyntan DLX-N      Lightfast syntan with a strong tanning action
                    and high fastness. Especially appropriate for
                    tanning wet white and reptile skins, and for
                    retanning white leathers and other types of leat-
                    her with high lightfastness and heat resistance.
                    Conc.: 96 %, pH ca. 4.2
Basyntan FC         Auxiliary tanning agent with a bleaching action
                    and an excellent dispersing effect. Can be used
                    to neutralize and retan chrome-tanned leathers
                    with a sensitive grain and in vegetable tanning.
                    Conc.: 95 %, pH ca. 1.4
Basyntan I/         Tanning agents that can be used to accelerate
Basyntan IZ         vegetable tannages and to enhance the colour
                    of the leather. They can increase the yield. They
                    can be used in retannages applied to chrome-
                    tanned leather in order to obtain leather with a
                    tight grain, a full handle and a good response to
                    dyeing.
                    Basyntan I:               Conc.: 96 %,
                                              pH ca. 3.8
                    Basyntan IZ:.             Conc.: 92 %,
                                              pH ca. 4
Basyntan MLB/       Especially recommended for all types of milled
Basyntan MLB Liquid leather such as upholstery, automotive and
                    garment leathers and nappa shoe uppers.
                    The leather has a fine, even grain after milling.
                    It can be dyed to very level, intense shades
                    and possesses good fastness.
                    Basyntan MLB:             Conc.: 95 %,
                                              pH ca. 4
                    Basyntan MLB Liqu.: Conc.: ca. 40 %,
                                              pH ca. 4
Basyntan N          Very appropriate for all types of soft, full leather.
                    Conc.: 95 %, pH ca. 4
Basyntan SL         Retanning agent with high fastness for use on
                    soft leathers with a full handle and a tight grain.
                    Especially appropriate for shoe uppers.
                    Conc.: 95 %, pH ca. 3.8
116
                                                              Retanning
Basyntan SW Liquid     Basyntan SW Liquid is a very effective pretan-
                       ning and tanning agent for wet white, especially
                       for automotive leather. It also performs just as
                       effectively as a wet blue retanning agent for all
                       types of automotive and upholstery leather, and
                       for garment, shoe and white leathers. The
                       retanned leather has a fine, tight grain and can
                       be dyed to brilliant, level shades.
                       Conc.: ca. 42 %, pH ca. 4.5
Basyntan WL/           For retanning all types of leather with high
Basyntan WL Liquid     fastness. The leather has a fine grain and
                       responds well to buffing.
                       Basyntan WL:              Conc.: 95 %,
                                                 pH ca. 3.7
                       Basyntan WL Liqu.:        Conc.: ca. 40 %,
                                                 pH ca. 3.8
Basyntan X             Universal retanning agent. Gives full, well
                       rounded leathers with a fine grain pattern. Has
                       a pronounced dispersing effect on vegetable
                       tanning agents. Conc.: 95 %, pH ca. 4.9
3. Polymeric retanning agents
Densotan A             Novel type of polymer with an extraordinary
                       dispersing action, which makes it easier to con-
                       trol and opimize the processes in wet finishing.
                       Very effective for producing all types of water-
                       resistant leather. Excellent fastness, odour-free,
                       and low fogging, which makes it a very appro-
                       priate choice for automotive leathers.
                       Amphoteric polymer. Improves the depth of
Relugan AME
                       shade and levelness of leathers dyed with anio-
                       nic dyes. Can hide small defects in the grain
                       and improves the tightness of the grain.
Relugan RE             Improves the fullness and softness of retanned
                       leathers without affecting the typical chrome-
                       tanned character of the leather.
                                                                      117
Retanning
Relugan RF             Can be used in chrome tannages and retanna-
                       ges for chrome-tanned leathers to improve
                       fullness and lightfastness of the leather and the
                       tightness of the grain. Boosts the exhaustion of
                       chrome.
Relugan RV             Relugan RV improves the fullness of chrome-
                       tanned leathers and the tightness of the grain,
                       and reduces their elasticity.
                       Very effective in combination with vegetable
                       tanning agents. Speeds up vegetable tanning
                       processes, improves the fullness of the leather
                       and bleaches its colour.
Relugan SE             Excellent alternative to conventional syntans.
                       Mainly used to retan leathers that are required
                       to have high lightfastness, high heat resistance
                       and a fine grain.
4. Resin tanning agents
Relugan D              Lightfast resin tanning agent for full-grain
                       leather and corrected-grain chrome-tanned
                       leather. Improves fullness, buffability and the
                       tightness of the grain.
Relugan DLF/           Relugan DLF and DLF Liquid have an especially
Relugan DLF Liquid     low formaldehyde content and are very effective
                       for enhancing the fullness of the leather in the
                       loosely structured areas of the skin. The leather
                       can be dyed to very level shades, and the
                       lightening effect on the intrinsic colour of the
                       leather is minimal. Leathers retanned with
                       Relugan DLF respond well to buffing, and
                       nubuck and suede can be dyed to more brilliant
                       shades.
Relugan S              Resin tanning agent with a dispersing and level-
                       ling action. Leathers respond well to buffing and
                       can be dyed to brilliant shades.
118
                                                               Retanning
5. BASF Aldehyde-tanning agents
Relugan GT 50/         A 50 % and a 24 % solution of glutaraldehyde.
Relugan GT 24          Can be used for all types of leather as a retan-
                       ning agent or as the sole tanning agent. High
                       dispersing capacity for fat. Give soft, perspira-
                       tion-resistant leathers.
Relugan GTW            Modified glutaraldehyde. Gives leathers with
                       high lightfastness and a fine, flat grain. Makes
                       leathers easier to dye, and enables them to be
                       dyed to intense shades.
Relugan GTP            New aldehyde tanning agent with a more plea-
                       sant odour. Very effective for use on wet white.
                       Can be used to retan chrome-tanned leathers in
                       order to give soft leathers with a smooth grain,
                       a good response to dyeing and excellent wash-
                       fastness and perspiration resistance.
Relugan GX             Odourless aldehyde tanning agent used to
                       retan chrome-tanned leather. Gives soft lea-
                       thers that can be dyed to very level, brilliant
                       shades. Excellent resistance to yellowing, which
                       enables it to be used for white leather and
                       leather dyed to pastel shades. Can also be
                       used to wet back crust without any ammonia
                       having to be used.
6. BASF Oil tanning agent
Immergan A             Oil tanning agent for soft, white, leathers such
                       as glove leathers and garment leathers, which
                       are expected to be tear-resistant and washable.
                       Can be used in combination with fish oil and
                       Relugan GT 50/ GT 24 for tanning chamois
                       leather; and with Lutan BN for glacé-kid type
                       glove leathers.
                                                                       119
Tanning
7. Tanning and retanning auxiliaries
Tamol GA               Neutralizing agent for all types of chrome-tan-
                       ned leather. Improves the softness and fullness
                       of the leather and the elasticity of the grain.
                       Enhances the nap on suede. Gives more level
                       shades when dyed, speeds up vegetable retan-
                       nages.
Tamol M/Tamol MB       Dispersing agents used to speed up the uptake
                       and improve the distribution of vegetable
                       tanning agents. These products promote the
                       penetration of dyes through chrome-tanned
                       leather and give more level shades.
Tamol NA               The excellent buffering capacity of Tamol NA
                       promotes the neutralization of chrome-tanned
                       leather. It can be employed in retannages to
                       disperse retanning agents and dyes, and the
                       leather can be dyed to brilliant, level shades.
                       Reduces the formation of chromium(VI) and
                       acts as a scavenger for free formaldehyde.
Tamol NNI              Dispersing and levelling agent. Promotes the
                       penetration of dyes through chrome-tanned
                       leather and wet white leather and gives more
                       level shades.
Tamol NNOL             Tanning auxiliary with a neutralizing, retanning
                       and levelling action. Especially appropriate for
                       white leathers and leathers dyed to pale shades
                       that are required to have high lightfastness.
Bastamol K             Fixing agent used to fix all types of anionic
                       tanning agents. Reduces the water absorption
                       of vegetable-tanned leather and the loss by
                       washing. Enhances the colour of the leather
                       and its perspiration resistance. Chrome-tanned
                       leathers are fuller and have a tighter grain.
120
                                                      Bleaching, fixation
Bleaching and fixation
Bleaching methods
1. Pelts and leathers tanned with formaldehyde, aluminium and
   fish oil
   a. Oxidation bleach:
      1. Potassium permanganate/sodium bisulfite
      2. Hydrogen peroxide
      3. Sodium chlorite
   b. Reduction bleach
2. Vegetable/synthetic tanned leather
   a. Bleaching with Basyntan D, DLE, DLX-N or WL.
   b. Bleaching with Tamol NNOL.
   c. Bleaching with acid auxiliary tanning agents (Basyntan FC).
3. Chrome leather
   a. Treatment with pale-tanning Basyntan or Tamol types.
   b. Sodium thiosulfate/acid treatment (deposition of colloidal sulfur).
   c. Bleaching the leather by deposition of insoluble white salts. Pre-
      treatment with barium chloride or lead acetate and after-treatment
      with sulfuric acid or magnesium sulfate or by deposition of titanium
      dioxide.
                                                                        121
Bleaching, fixation
BASF bleach-tanning agents and bleaching auxiliaries
Basyntan FC                            cf. chapter
Basyntan D, DLE, DLX-N                 “BASF synthetic and tanning and
Basyntan WL                            retanning agents”
Tamol NNOL                             Anionic, light fast levelling agent with
                                       bleach effect.
Fixing agents for vegetable tannins and syntans
The object of fixing is to convert the unbound tannins and syntans in the
leather into such a form that they cannot be removed by washing.
Bastamol K                  Fixing agent used to fix all types of anionic
                            tanning agents. Reduces the water absorption
                            of vegetable-tanned leather and the loss by
                            washing. Enhances the colour of the leather
                            and its perspiration resistance. Chrome-tanned
                            leathers are fuller and have a tighter grain.
Loading agents
Product                     Chem. formula          Properties
Magnesium sulfate           MgSO4 · 7H2O           Precipitates tan solutions,
(Epsom salt)                                       increases weight, strongly
                                                   increases ash.
                                                   Produced on leather by
Barium sulfate              BaSO4
(heavy spar)                                       conversion of barium
                                                   chloride with sulfates or
                                                   sulfuric acid.
                                                   Produced on leather by
Lead sulfate                PbSO4
                                                   conversion of lead acetate
                                                   with sulfates or
                                                   sulfuric acid.
Vegetable tanning materials and molasses are also used.
122
                      Tanner’s tools
                   fleshing knife
                   unhairing knife
                   scudding knife
                     shaving knife
     tanner’s tongs
          slating stone
beam
                                  123
Tannery machines
Fleshing machine – operating principle
                    4
                                     1 = knife cylinder
      5
                          4
                                     2 = pneumatic pressure roll
        3
                                     3 = backing roll
                                     4 = transport rolls
                                 1
                   2
                                     5 = inlet – pelt to be fleshed
                                     6 = outlet – fleshed pelt
                        6
Splitting machine – operating principle
                                           1 = unsplit hide
                                           2 = grain or top split
                   11
                                           3 = flesh or bottom split
                                 5
                                           4 = bandknife with guide
                                      2
                                           5 = transport roll
           10                              6 = section roll
                                     4
                                           7 = doctor roll
    1       8
                                           8 = rubber roll
                                           9 = backing roll
                            6      3
                                7         10 = table
                9     9
                                          11 = thickness adjustment
                                                top
124
                                             Tannery machines
Samming machine – operating principle
        2
                                       1 = sammed leather
            3                          2 = felt sleeve for taking
                                           up water
                                       3 = pressure roll with
                                           spring bearing
    1
                                       4 = swivelling pressure
                                           roll
           4
                                 5
                                       5 = flattening knife
                                           cylinder
         2
                                       6 = swivelling rubber
                                           roll
                    6
Shaving machine – operating principle
                                          1 = leather to be shaved
                                          2 = table
             4
                                          3 = pressure roll
                                          4 = transport roll
                        5
           3
 1    2
                                          5 = knife roll
                                     7
                                          6 = repeller blades
                      6
                                          7 = grinding disk
                                                                  125
Tanning/retanning – Glossary
Glossary of terms relating to tanning and
tanning agents
Astringency
A term for the affinity of a tanning agent or a tan liquor for the skin sub-
stance. The astringency is dependent on various factors in tanning.
Acid value (titration acidity)
The titratable acidity is a measure of the free acids in a product. The acid
value is expressed in the number of mg 0.1 N NaOH required to neutra-
lize the free acids in 1 g of the product sample.
                ml 0.1 N NaOH · 5.6 · 100
Calculation:                                  = mg KOH = acid value
                sample weight · dry weight
Affinity
An attractive force between substances that causes them to enter into
and remain in chemical combination.
Analytical strength (determination of tannin – filter method)
Preparation of an analytical solution for quantitative determination of
tannin according to the hide powder method. The solution must contain
4.0 ± 0.25 pure tannin per litre in order to obtain comparable values.
Ash
Total residue on ignition.
Binding capacity
Maximum amount of tanning agent bound by the hide substance. The
binding capacity gives an indication of the weight-imparting effect of
tanning materials.
Binding rate
The amount of tanning material bound within a certain period of time.
The binding rate decreases in the course of the tanning process.
Binding strength
The binding strength is determined by intensive washing of the leather.
Case-hardening
Occurs in tanning pelts that have not been properly prepared, when
tanning solutions of excessively high concentration are used at the
beginning of the tanning process. The uptake of tanning agents is
stopped and the inner zones of the pelts remain untanned even if the
pelts are left in the tanning liquor for a prolonged period.
126
                                             Tanning/retanning – Glossary
Concentration
Sum of pure tans plus non-tans plus insolubles.
Degree of tannage
The number of parts of tanning material bound by 100 parts of hide
substance.
Flocculation point
The point at which a permanent flocculation occurs in basifying chrome
solutions; the closer a chrome liquor lies at the flocculation point, the
higher is its basicity and also its astringency.
Flocculation value
The amount (ml) of n/10 caustic soda required for 50 mg chrome to
attain flocculation.
Hide powder
Hide freed from epidermis, hair and subcutaneous tissue (true skin) and
uniformly disintegrated according to a standard method. A distinction is
made between untreated and prechromed hide powder. Used for quanti-
tative analysis of tanning agents.
Insolubles
Difference of total solids and total insolubles in solutions and extracts.
Non-tans
Solids retained in exhausted analytic tannin solutions or extracts after
tannage.
Olation
Olation is the linking up of chromium complexes with one another with
separation of water. The degree of olation is the proportion of olated
hydroxyl groups to the theoretically possible total amount of hydroxyl
groups per chromium atom. The higher the degree of olation, the higher
the stability of chrome solutions to acid.
Percentage of tans in total solubles
This value is determined as follows.
tans · 100
                  = percentage of tans in total solubles
tans · non-tans
Pure tannin
Tans in total solubles minus non-tans.
Salting out
The treatment of tan solutions with increasing amounts of common salt.
Thus, the astringency, particle size and susceptibility to electrolytes of tan
solutions are determined.
                                                                          127
Tanning/retanning – Glossary
Self-basification
Basification is the introduction of hydroxy groups into the mineral tanning
agent complex = partial neutralization of the chrome tanning agents.
Chrome tanning agents are regarded as self-basifying when they are
used in conjunction with appropriate proportions of basifying agents
which dissolve at a slow rate.
Solids (total solids)
The dry residue of an analytical tannin solution or extract.
Solubles (total solubles)
The dry residue of a filtered analytical tannin solution or extract.
Sulfited tanning materials
Tanning materials to which sodium sulfite or sodium bisulfite is added
during the leaching or extracting process to increase the yield of tans.
Auxiliary tanning agents with dispersing effect, such as Tamol M, can also
be added to advantage.
Tanning and binding value
The tanning and binding value gives an indication of the quantitative and
qualitative uptake of vegetable and synthetic tanning agents by the hide
powder.
The tanning value is the total amount of tanning material taken up by the
hide powder.
The binding value, on the other hand, indicates only the irreversibly
bound portion of the tanning material.
Tans (pure tannin)
Total solubles minus non-tans.
Wet blue
Chrome tanned leather with bluish colour.
Wet white
Non-chrome tanned leather with a slightly yellowish color. Nowadays
often used for leather tanned with a combination of aldehyde and
vegetable/synthetic/polymeric tanning agents.
128
                                           Emulsifiers, wetting agents
Emulsifiers and wetting agents
Chemical classification
Anionic products
1. Soaps and Turkey red oils
2. Sulfonated oils, fats and fatty acids
3. Alkyl sulfates
4. Alkyl sulfonates
5. Alkyl aryl sulfonates
6. Alkyl phosphates
7. Condensation products
   a. Condensation with aliphatic hydroxy and amino sulfonic acids
   b. Condensation with sulfocarboxylic acids
   c. Condensation with amino carboxylic acids
   d. Condensation with aromatic sulfonic and amino sulfonic acids
Cationic products
1. Condensation with amines
2. Condensation with urea derivatives
3. Condensation with tertiary nitrogen bases
Non-ionic products
1. Condensation with polyhydroxyl compounds
2. Hydroxyethylated products
   a. of fatty acids
   b. of fatty alcohols
   c. of fatty acid amides
   d. of fatty amines
   e. of alkyl phenols and alkyl naphthols
3. Condensation with polyimines
Emulsion types
1. Oil-in-water emulsion
   The outer phase is water.
   Abbreviation: o/w emulsion
2. Water-in-oil emulsion
   The outer phase is oil.
   Abbreviation: w/o emulsion
                                                                   129
Emulsifiers, wetting agents
3. Secondary emulsion
    Abbreviation: (w/o)w emulsion
4. Tertiary emulsion
    Abbreviation: (w/o-w)o emulsion
                       Oil                    H 2O
   o/w emulsion                                           w/o emulsion
Determination of emulsion type
a.  Indicator test method
b.  Drop diluting test method
c.  Conductivity test method
d.  Rubbing test method
e.  Filter paper test method
f.  Cobalt chloride test method
The main BASF emulsifiers and wetting agents for the leather and
fur industries
Eusapon S (nonionic)       Soaking, liming, painting, bating, degreasing,
                           wetting back, scouring of fur skins; high emul-
                           sifying power for natural fats, strong wetting
                           effect.
Eusapon W                  Soaking, wetting back.
Lipamin OK (cationic)      Wetting back, dyeing, fatliquoring.
Lipoderm N (anionic)       Wetting back, dyeing, fatliquoring.
130
                                                                  Fatliquoring
Fatliquoring
Purpose
The fibre elements dehydrated by tanning are coated with a fat layer to
give leather the desirable softness and handle by a sort of lubrication.
At the same time, fatliquoring influences the physical properties of the
leather, such as extensibility, tensile strength, wetting properties, water-
proofness and permeability to air and water vapour.
The principal basic fatliquoring substances
A. Biological fatty substances
1. Vegetable oils
    a. Drying oils: linseed oil, hemp oil, poppy oil, nut oil, wood or tung
       oil. (Limited use)
    b. Semi-drying oils: colza or rape oil, maize oil, sunflower oil, soya
       bean oil, cotton seed oil, rice oil.
    c. Non-drying oils: olive oil, castor oil, ground nut oil (arachis oil), fruit
       kernel oils.
2. Vegetable fats
    Coconut fat, palm kernel fat, palm oil fat, Japan tallow.
3. Animal oils
    a. Marine animal oils: seal oil, whale oil, dolphin oil (no technical use)
       Fish oils: herring oil, sardine oil, menhaden oil
       Liver oils: cod liver oil, shark liver oil
    b. Land animal oils: neatsfoot oil, lard oil
4. Animal fats
    Beef and mutton tallow, lard, butter fat, bone fat, horse grease.
5. Waxes
    a. Vegetable: carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax.
    b. Animal: beeswax, wool grease.
B. Non-biological fatty substances
Paraffin waxes, mineral oils, olefins, processed hydrocarbons, synthetic
fatty acid esters and waxes, fatty alcohols, alkyl benzenes.
                                                                              131
Fatliquoring
Characteristic values of the main fatty substances
Product                   Density              Saponification value
Cod liver oil             0.921 – 0.928        179 – 193
Shark oil                 0.865 – 0.929         85 – 188
Herring oil               0.917 – 0.931        179 – 194
Menhaden oil              0.925 – 0.935        189 – 198
Sardine oil               0.928 – 0.935        186 – 193
Ground nut oil            0.916 – 0.921        188 – 197
Olive oil                 0.914 – 0.929        191 – 195
Castor oil                0.950 – 0.974        176 – 191
Cotton seed oil           0.913 – 0.927        191 – 199
Maize oil                 0.920 – 0.928        188 – 198
Rape oil                  0.911 – 0.918        172 – 176
Sesame oil                0.921 – 0.925        187 – 195
Soybean oil               0.922 – 0.934        188 – 195
Wood oil (Chinese)        0.936 – 0.945        188 – 197
Linseed oil               0.930 – 0.936        187 – 195
132
                                                Fatliquoring
Unsaponifiable Iodine value Acid value Solidification range
matter
0.7 – 3.0 %    140 – 181    0.5 – 1.7  – 10 to     0 °C
2.0 – 56.0 %   100 – 200    0.1 – 3.0  – 20 to +10 °C
0.7 – 2.4 %    108 – 155    1 – 19
0.6 – 1.6 %    139 – 193                   ca. +17 °C
0.5 – 1.8 %    154 – 196    1 – 19
0.3 – 1.0 %      83 – 103   ca. 1      – 13 to     0 °C
0.5 – 1.4 %      80 – 185              – 16 to     0 °C
0.3 – 0.4 %      81 – 186              – 18 to – 10 °C
1.0 – 2.0 %    101 – 121               – 16 to – 1 °C
1.3 – 1.6 %    117 – 123               – 15 to – 10 °C
0.5 – 1.6 %      94 – 105   0.5 – 6.0  – 10 to     0 °C
0.5 – 1.0 %    103 – 112               – 16 to – 3 °C
0.5 – 1.5 %    124 – 133               – 18 to – 8 °C
0.4 – 1.0 %    150 – 160               – 18 to + 2 °C
0.5 – 2.0 %    172 – 196               – 27 to – 16 °C
                                                         133
Fatliquoring
Characteristic values of the main fatty substances
Product                   Density              Saponification value
Coconut oil               0.920 – 0.938        246 – 268
Palm oil                  0.921 – 0.948        196 – 210
Neatsfoot oil             0.913 – 0.919        192 – 196
Sperm oil                 0.875 – 0.890        125 – 149
Beef tallow               0.936 – 0.953        190 – 200
Horse grease              0.915 – 0.933        195 – 200
Egg yolk (egg oil)        0.914 – 0.917        184 – 198
Wool grease (wax)         0.940 – 0.970          77 – 130
Beeswax                   0.950 – 0.966          99 – 100
Carnauba wax              0.990 – 0.999          78 – 93
Japan wax                 0.963 – 1.006        207 – 238
Montan wax                1.000 – 1.030          60 – 90
Mineral oil               0.860 – 0.900        –
Paraffin oil              0.885 – 0.900        –
Paraffin wax – soft       0.866 – 0.911        –
Paraffin wax – hard       0.866 – 0.911        –
Ceresin                   0.910 – 0.970        –
134
                                                Fatliquoring
Unsaponifiable Iodine value Acid value Solidification range
matter
0.2 – 0.3 %      8 – 10     –          +14 to +25 °C
0.2 – 0.3 %    51 – 57      –          +31 to +41 °C
0.1 – 0.6 %    68 – 81      1.0 – 6.0  – 12 to – 6 °C
35 – 44 %      71 – 93      0.1 – 0.4  + 7 to +10 °C
0.1 – 0.3 %    32 – 47      0.5 – 5.0  +30 to +38 °C
0.4 – 0.7 %    74 – 94      –          +22 to +37 °C
0.2 – 4.2 %    64 – 82      –          + 8 to +10 °C
39 – 50 %      15 – 29      1.0 – 3.0  +30 to +40 °C
52 – 55 %        6 – 15     17 – 24    +60 to +63 °C
52 – 56 %        8 – 14     4–8        +83 to +86 °C
0.4 – 1.6 %      4 – 15     –          +50 to +54 °C
25 – 60 %        8 – 15     28 – 32    +78 to +90 °C
–                –          –          –
–                –          –          –
–                0– 6       –          +38 to +42 °C
–                0– 6       –          +50 to +60 °C
–                –          –          +62 to +70 °C
                                                         135
Fatliquoring
Classification of leather fatliquoring products
1. Untreated oils, fats and waxes
2. Emulsified oils and fats
3. Sulfonated oils, fats and fatty alcohols
   a. sulfated products
       (-C-O-S bond, ester-like, splittable)
   b. sulfonated products
       (-C-S bond, true sulfo acid, unsplittable)
4. Chlorinated oils and fats
   a. chlorinated products
   b. sulfochlorinated products
5. Oxidation products of oils and fats
6. Hydrolysis products of oils and fats
Fatliquoring methods
1. Oiling-off (mainly for sole leather)
2. Cold stuffing on the table
3. Hot stuffing by the dipping process
4. Fatliquoring (principal method)
   a.  fatliquoring in warm aqueous float
   b.  fatliquoring in cold aqueous float
   c.  dry fatliquoring (without float)
   d.  oiling by brush
136
                                                               Fatliquoring
BASF fatliquor range
1. Fatliquors based on natural oils
Lipoderm Liquor 1C     All-round fatliquor based on fish oil. Fat content
(AOX-free)             approx. 90 %.
Lipoderm Liquor A1     Chrome-resistant fatliquor with very low odour.
(AOX-free)             Resistant to yellowing by light and at high tem-
                       peratures, very low fogging. Lipoderm Liquor
                       A1 can be used to fatliquor all types of soft
                       leather such as automotive, upholstery and
                       garment leather, nappa shoe uppers and soft,
                       milled leathers. Fat content approx. 70 %.
Lipoderm Liquor LA     Leather treated with Lipoderm Liquor LA has a
(AOX-free)             silky surface texture and a handle which is
                       pleasantly soft, full and supple. It can be used
                       to fatliquor all types of soft leather, especially
                       upholstery leather and garment leather.
                       Lipoderm Liquor LA’s excellent fastness and
                       very low fogging make it an ideal choice for
                       fatliquoring automotive leather.
                       Lipoderm Liquor LA can also be used to
                       improve the handle of nubuck.
Lipoderm Liquor PN     Fatliquor for soft, stretchy leathers with a tight
(AOX-free)             grain, a slightly greasy handle and high
                       fastness. Fat content approx. 60 %.
Lipoderm Liquor WF     Reduces the water absorption and wettability of
(AOX-free)             the leather, enhances the fatliquoring effect,
                       and gives a tight grain and a greasy handle.
                       Recommendable for use with the Densodrin
                       system for water-resistant leathers. Fat content
                       approx. 50 %.
                                                                        137
Fatliquoring
2. Fatliquors based on synthetic oils
Lipoderm Liquor FP      Polymeric fatliquor mainly used in combination
(AOX-free)             with other fatliquors. High fullness, high
                       exhaustion, odourless, low fogging, high
                       yellowing resistance. For automotive leathers,
                       shoe uppers and leathers that are washable
                       and resistant to dry cleaning. Recommendable
                       for use with the Densodrin system for water-
                       resistant leathers.
Lipoderm Liquor PSE     Lightfast, synthetic fatliquor for soft leathers.
(AOX-free)             High penetration, high emulsifying power for
                       synthetic oils, resistant to chrome. Fat content
                       approx. 60 %.
Lipoderm Liquor SAF    Recommended for fatliquoring high-quality
                       leathers such as aniline, softy, nappa and
                       suede. Penetrates well and gives the leather a
                       greasy handle and an elastic grain. Fat content
                       approx. 80 %.
Lipoderm Liquor SLW Lightfast, synthetic fatliquor with very high
(AOX-free)             penetration for soft, washable leathers. Can
                       be used in combination with Densodrin types
                       to enhance the softness of water-repellent
                       leathers. Fat content approx. 60 %.
Lipoderm Liquor SOL     Leather treated with Lipoderm Liquor SOL has
(AOX-free)             a tight grain, a full handle and high fastness. It
                       responds very well to dyeing.
                       Lipoderm Liquor SOL can be employed as the
                       main component of mixtures of fatliquors which
                       can be applied to all types of leather, especially
                       shoe upper leather. We would recommend
                       combining Lipoderm Liquor SOL with selected
                       fatliquors from our range in order to control the
                       handle and specific properties of the leather.
138
                                                                Fatliquoring
3. Fatliquors based on natural and synthetic oils
Lipoderm Liquor CMG Gives very soft leather. Odourless, low-fogging
(AOX-free)               and high fastness. Especially recommended for
                         automotive leather, upholstery leather, garment
                         leather and nappa shoe uppers. Fat content
                         approx. 60 %.
Lipoderm Liquor SC       Mixture of natural and synthetic oils. Can be
                         used as the sole fatliquor applied to shoe
                         uppers. Fat content approx. 70 %.
4. Cationic fatliquors
Lipamin Liquor NO        Lightfast, natural fatliquor, suitable for use in
(AOX-free)               multicharge liquors, especially on leathers that
                         are vacuum dried. Fat content approx. 60 %.
Lipamin Liquor SO        Lightfast, synthetic fatliquor. Resistant to
(AOX-free)               yellowing at high temperatures, suitable for
                         use in multicharge liquors. Fat content
                         approx. 60 %.
5. Water-insoluble fatliquors
Immergan A               Fatliquoring auxiliary. This product is lightfast. It
                         inhibits exudation and increases the tensile
                         strength of the leather.
Lipoderm Oil N1          Lipoderm Oil N1 is a natural raw oil with
                         characteristics similar to those of neatsfoot oil.
                         The leather gets a full, supple handle and a
                         particular smooth, fine grain.
                         Lipoderm Oil N1 can be recommended as a
                         fatliquoring additive for all types of chrome
                         leather, but especially for shoe uppers. If it is
                         used as a “grain oil” on vegetable tanned
                         leather, such as sole leather and case leather,
                         higher elasticity and gloss are achieved.
                                                                           139
Fatliquoring
6. Fatliquoring auxiliaries
Lipoderm N                 Anionic emulsifier and stabilizer for anionic
(AOX-free)                 fatliquors, with an additional fatliquoring action.
                           Can be applied to washable leathers.
Lipamin OK                 Cationic stabilizer for cationic fatliquors, with an
(AOX-free)                 additional fatliquoring action.
Siligen HS                 Cationic emulsifier for fats and oils.
(AOX-free)
Analysis of leather fatliquoring agents
1. Water-insoluble fatliquoring agents
    a. Determination of water content
    b. Determination of non-volatile, non-fatty organic substances
       (The insolubles in ether minus ash give the non-volatile, non-fatty
       substances)
    c. Determination of total volatile substances
       (Water and organic solvents)
    d. Determination of content of mineral matter
    e. Fatliquoring substances
       (Product weighed out minus water, volatile and non-volatile organic
       substances and mineral matter)
    f. Determination of fatty acids
    g. Determination of unsaponifiable matter
2. Water-soluble fatliquoring agents
    a. Determination of fatliquoring substances
       (100 minus water, mineral matter and volatile organic
       substances = % fatliquoring substances)
140
                                                                Fatliquoring
   b. Separation into emulsifying and emulsified components
      (according to Panzer-Niebuer)
       Emulsified proportion     = neutral fat, unsaponifiable matter, free
                                   fatty acids (in petroleum ether solution)
       Emulsifying proportion = emulsifiers (in aqueous/alcoholic
                                   solution)
   c. Testing for sulfonation
   d. Determination of degree of sulfonation
       (total SO3, inorganically and organically bound SO3)
   e. Determination of degree of neutralization
   f. Determination of neutral salts in sulfonated oils
The testing of water-soluble fatliquoring agents is laid down in the
German standard.
DIN 53345       Part 1     Sampling
                Part 2     Characterization of ionic charge
                Part 3     Determination of content of water and water-
                           soluble solvents
                Part 4     Determination of content of water-vapour-vola-
                           tile and water-immiscible solvents
                Part 5     Determination of content of fatty substances
                           and mineral substances
                Part 6     Determination of pH in aqueous emulsion or
                           solution
                Part 7     Determination of residual fat content of
                           fatliquoring baths
                Part 8     Method for testing the stability to electrolytes
DIN 53346                  Method for testing the stability to electrolytes of
                           fatliquors for fur skins.
                                                                           141
Fatliquoring
3. The principal characteristic chemical values of fats and oils
The iodine value (IV)  specifies the amount of unsaturated com-
                       pounds.
The acid value (AV)    specifies the amount of free fatty acids con-
                       tained in the fat.
The saponification     specifies the amount of potassium hydroxide in
value (SV)             mg necessary for neutralizing 1 g fatty acid.
The ester value (EV)   is a measure of the ester content of fats or
                       waxes. It is identical to the saponification value
                       of acid-free fats.
The peroxide value     is a measure of the peroxide-bound oxygen
(PV)                   contained in fats or oils. It is used to assess the
                       degree of oxidation.
The iodine colour      expresses the number of mg iodine in 100 ml
value (ICV)            standard iodine solution showing the same
                       depth of shade as the sample.
142
                                                                Fatliquoring
General structure of fatliquors
                         Fatliquoring substances
      Hydrophobic components               Hydrophilic components
      = emulsified components             = emulsifying components
     consisting of:                      consisting of:
     unsaponifiable and                  emulsifiers and
     saponifiable substances             fatliquoring auxiliaries
                    =                                   =
     a. Biological fatty substances      a. Anionic substances
         (animal and vegetable               (sulfates, sulfonates,
         oils/fats)                          carboxylic acids)
     b. Non-biological fatty             b. Cationic substances
         substances (paraffins,              (amine salts, suphonium and
         olefins, processed                  phosphonium compounds,
         hydrocarbons, synthetic             polyamines, fatty amines)
         fatty acid esters, fatty
         alcohols, alkyl benzenes,       c. Nonionic substances
         polyethers)                         (substituted polyalcohols,
                                             polyglycol ethers)
                                      +
                              Mineral matter
                             = inorganic salts
                                      +
                               Volatile matter
                             = water, solvents
                                                                        143
Fatliquoring
Courses of reactions in the production of fatliquors
 1. sulfating
Fatty substance + H2SO4                  R – O – SO3H
 2. sulfiting
Fatty substance + O2 + NaHSO3            R – SO3Na
 3. sulfochlorination
Fatty substance + SO2 + Cl2 + hÓ         R – CH – SO3H
                                              |
                                             Cl
 4. Esterification and hydroxyethylation
Fatty alcohol + x H2C – CH2 + H3PO4
                        O
R – O – (CH2 – CH2 – O)x – PO3H
144
                                                              Fatliquoring
Composition of natural oils and fats
Main constituents:
Mixtures of triglycerides of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids
                    HOOC – R1          H2 – C – O – CO – R1
H2 – C – OH
     |                                        |
                    HOOC – R2                              2
2H – C – OH     +                  =   2H – C – O – CO – R + 3 H 2O
     |                                        |
                    HOOC – R3          H2 – C – O – CO – R3
H2 – C – OH
Glycerine       +   fatty acid     =   triglyceride
Accompanying substances
Phosphatides, sterols (cholesterol, phytosterol), hydrocarbons (Squalene
C30H50), vitamins, colorants, aromatics and flavours.
                                                                      145
Fatliquoring
Percentages (average values) of fatty acids in some oils and fats
                         Her- Beef Neats- Soya- Coco- Ground-
Trivial name –           ring tal- foot bean nut      nut     Chemical
Fatty acid               oil  low oil     oil   oil   oil     designation
Caprylic a.     C 8:0                            7            Octanoic a.
Capric a.       C 10 : 0                         7            Decanoic a.
Lauric a.       C 12 : 0                        48            Dodecanoic a.
Myristic a.     C 14 : 0 8      4               18     1      Tetradecanoic a.
Palmitic a.     C 16 : 0 14   29   15     10     9    12      Hexadecanoic a.
Stearic a.      C 18 : 0 2    23     3     2     3     4      Octadecanoic a.
Arachic a.      C 20 : 0                               2      Eicosanoic a.
Behenic a.      C 22 : 0                               4      Docosanoic a.
Palmitolic a.   C 16 : 1 6      5  10                         Hexadecenoic a.
Oleic a.        C 18 : 1 8    35   60     25     7    54      Octadecenoic a.
Gadoleic a.     C 20 : 1                               1      Eicosenoic a.
Eruic a.        C 22 : 1                                      Docosenoic
Linolic a.      C 18 : 2 3      3    2    10     2    30      Octadecadienoic a.
                                                              (cis, cis)
Linolenic a.    C 18 : 2   1    2                      1      Octadecadienoic a.
                                                              (trans, trans)
Unsaturated
fatty a.      C 20 : 2-6 25                                   –
Unsaturated
fatty a.      C 22 : 3-6 19                                   –
146
                                                  Water-repellent treatment
Water-repellent treatment of leather
Purpose
Increasing the interfacial tension between leather fibres and water and
thus reducing or almost completely eliminating the wettability with water
by depositing water-repellents in the leather substance.
Hydrophobic = water-repellent
Oleophobic = oil- and dirt-repellent
The main water-repellents (general)
Chemical substances                     Mode of action
Water-insoluble fats, resins,           Deposition, clogging the interfibrillar
waxes, polymers, etc.                   spaces. Mainly statical action.
Chrome fatty acid complexes,            Fixation of the water-repellent
perfluorinated chrome fatty acid        complex to the fibre.
complexes, chrome and aluminium         Increasing the surface tension
alkylphosphates, etc.                   against water.
Compounds with free carboxylic          Formation of a water-repellent
groups and complexing emulsi-           complex on the fibre.
fiers, e. g. fatty acids and esters,    Increasing the surface tension
soaps, dicarboxylic acids, esters       against water.
of phosphoric acid, polymeric fatty
acids, imido acetic acid derivatives.
Polysiloxanes, carbon fluoride          Surrounding the fibre with a
resins, etc.                            water-repellent film. Increasing the
                                        surface tension against water.
Hydrophilic emulsifiers of the          Clogging the interfibrillar spaces
water-in-oil type, e. g., alkylated     by water absorption and
and alkylized derivatives of            formation of emulsion and
succinic acid, derivates of citric      swelling.
acid, esters of fatty acids of
polyvalent alcohols, hydroxy-
ethylated fatty acids or alcohols.
Nitrogen-containing compounds,            Blocking the phenolic groups
e. g., pyridinium chloride derivatives,   of tanning agents. Increasing the
alkylene derivatives, isocyanates.        surface tension against water.
                                                                           147
Water-repellent treatment
BASF water-repellents
All BASF water-repellents mentioned below are light fast and heat resis-
tant. They do not contain organic solvents or organic halogen com-
pounds, and so do not make any contribution to the AOX content of the
waste water.
The water-repellent effect can be generally improved by fixation with
metal salts.
Densodrin CD              Anionic water repellent for leathers that are
                          expected to fulfil the highest standards of water
                          resistance. Appropriate for leathers tested by
                          the Maeser method. Contains silicone.
Densodrin EN              Anionic water repellent with high fastness for
                          leathers with a medium degree of water
                          resistance. Appropriate for leathers tested
                          by the Bally Penetrometer method.
Densodrin ENS             Anionic water repellent with high fastness for
                          leathers with a moderate to high degree of
                          water resistance. Appropriate for leathers
                          tested by the Bally Penetrometer method.
                          Contains silicone.
Densodrin OF              Anionic, silicone-based water-repellent additive.
                          Applied in aqueous float with Densodrin CD,
                          Densodrin EN or Densodrin ENS. Enhances the
                          water resistance and softness of the leather
                          and gives a smooth, silky handle. Can also be
                          applied as a handle modifier in finishing.
148
                                   Water-repellent treatment
Densodrin PS Silicone containing polymer emulsion. It forms
             the basis of a new water-repellent system which
             has been specially developed to make it easier
             to produce stiff, water-resistant leather. Used in
             combination with other water-repellents e. g.
             Densodrin CD, Densodrin EN or Densodrin
             ENS. Appropriate for leathers tested by the
             Maeser method.
Densodrin S  Anionic, silicone-based water-repellent additive.
             Applied in an aqueous float with Densodrin CD,
             Densodrin EN or Densodrin ENS as the main
             water repellent.
Densodrin SI Additive which contains silicone. Used to
             enhance the water resistance of leather,
             especially in combination with other products
             from the Densodrin range. Densodrin SI can
             also be applied to crust or finished leather in
             order to obtain a silky handle and to improve
             softness.
Densotan A   Novel type of polymer with a neutralizing and
             retanning action. Very effective for producing
             water-resistant leather. Boosts the penetration
             of water-repellents, speeds up the process,
             prevents drawn grain and enhances the
             levelling and penetration of dyes. Stabilizer
             for water-repellents and fatliquors. Used in
             neutralization and/or in small amounts together
             with the water-repellent.
                                                            149
Water-repellent treatment
Drum Dyeing
Colour spectrum (value given in nm)
                                                                        Ultra- Violet
                                                                        Yellow
                                                                  Orange
                                                                                                         Infra-
                                                                                      Blue     Green Red
                                                                        violet                           red
     400   450                                                                             500   550
                                          600     650     700     750
                    Range visible for the human eye
Absorption and reflection
Range of wave               Absorbed spectral      Reflected complementary
lengths* in nm              colour                 colour
400 – 435                   Violet                 Yellow-green
435 – 480                   Blue                   Yellow
480 – 490                   Green-blue             Orange
490 – 500                   Blue-green             Red
500 – 560                   Green                  Purple
560 – 580                   Yellow-green           Violet
580 – 595                   Yellow                 Blue
595 – 605                   Orange                 Green-blue
605 – 750                   Red                    Blue-green
*Ranges selected at random because there are transition zones within
the colour range.
A selective absorption in the visible spectral range is necessary for the
formation of colours.
If, for example, the violet-blue portion of the white light is absorbed from
a body, the remainder of the colour (green and red-orange) is reflected;
the body appears to be yellow. If all light rays are reflected, the body
appears to be white and if all light rays are absorbed, the body appears
to be black.
150
Chromatic triangle for colour matching
                                                            Slate
                                                                                    le
                                                                                  rp
                                                                                Pu
                                                                            let
                                                                                                  Le
                                                                                                  m
                                                                                                     liv
                                                                                                     O
                                                                                                     on
                                                                                                        Gr
                                                                                                        ee
                                                                                                        n
                                                                                                           Tu
                                                                                                             rq
                                                                                                               uo
                                                                                                                 ise
                                                                                                                          Drum Dyeing
                                                                                                                     Blue
                                                                                       Bordeaux
                                                Orange                                Scarlet   Red
                                                                                                  151
                                                                         Vio
                                                           Brown
                         Yellow
                        On the sides of the triangle are the shades obtained by mixing the pure
                        spectral colours yellow and red, red and blue, blue and yellow.
                        The area within the triangle is occupied by the shades which contain
                        components of all three basic colours.
                        e
Drum Dyeing
CIE chromaticitiy diagram
(CIE = Commission International de l’Eclairage)
In the CIE system, the standard colour values are expressed in terms of
chromaticity, i. e. X = redness, Y = greenness and Z = blueness. For the
two-dimensional representation of colours, only the relative chromaticity
values are specified:
                                         X
                                 –
relative redness                 x=
                                     X+Y+Z
                                         Y
                                 –=
relative greenness               y
                                     X+Y+Z
relative blueness follows from x + – + – = 1
                                 – y z
152
                                                                  Drum Dyeing
           520
                   530
  0.8
            510
                           540
  0.7
                                  550
                                        560
  0.6
Y                                           570
                            yellow-
             500
                green       green
  0.5
                                                   580
                                        yellow
                                                       590
  0.4
                                         orange           600
                                                               620
                                                 red             630
                 blue-green                                      640
  0.3
                                                                  650
                490              achromatic or                    660
                                 white point
                                                              690-780
  0.2
                               purple
                 blue
        480
  0.1    470
          460
          450
           440         380-410
    0
      0      0.1     0.2     0.3      0.4     0.5    0.6    0.7      0.8
                                                       X
                                                                          153
Drum Dyeing
CIELAB colour system (DIN 6174)
(Commission International de l’Eclairage LAB-System)
A system of colorimetric specification of shades, calculation of colour dif-
ferences in colour matching and determination of minimum metamerism
index or colour concentration and strength differences.
A colour can be fixed by the coordinates L, C, h.
            white = 100 °
                                     C* = chromaticity
                                     L* = luminance
                                     h = hue angle from 0° to 360°
 green =                   yellow =
                   L*
 180 °                     90 °      DE* = colour difference
                                     DH* = hue difference
                    +                       (not angle difference)
         –                                  + = sample deviates in
                     h      C*
                                                counting direction
              –
                        +                   – = sample deviates against
                                                counting direction
  blue =                             DC* = chromatic difference
  270 °                    red = 0 °        + = sample is purer
                                            – = sample is duller
                                     DL* = brightness difference
                                            + = sample is lighter
                                            – = sample is darker
             black = 0 °
                      (DL*)2      (DC*)2      (DH*)2
                               +          +
           DE* =
 CIELAB total colour space
For more information see the corresponding literature in chapter
„Technical literature“.
154
                                                        Drum Dyeing
Chemical classification of leather dyes
1. Nitro and nitroso dyes
2. Metallized and non-metallized azo dyes
   a. monoazo dyes
   b. polyazo dyes
3. Diphenyl and triphenyl methane dyes
4. Sulfur dyes
5. Phthalocyanine
6. Anthraquinone and multi-ring dyes
7. Natural dyes
Classification of leather dyes according to their application
properties
1. Anionic dyes
   a. acid dyes
   b. direct (substantive) dyes
   c. special dyes
   d. dyes that can be dispersed in water
2. Cationic dyes
3. Oxidation dyes
                                                                155
Drum Dyeing
BASF products for drum dyeing
Luganil Dyes (powder range)
Anionic dyes of uniform composition for all types of leather. Excellent
coloristic properties and high fastness.
Luganil Yellow G           Clean, greenish yellow; metal-free.
Luganil Orange GGC         Yellowish orange.
Luganil Orange NG          Clean, yellowish orange; metal-free.
Luganil Orange NR          Reddish orange.
Luganil Light              Pale, yellowish brown for all types of aniline
Brown NG                   leather (shoe uppers, upholstery leather and
                           garment leather) with high lightfastness.
Luganil Brown GOL          Pale, slightly reddish brown, especially for all
                           types of aniline leather (shoe uppers, upholstery
                           leather and garment leather) with high light-
                           fastness.
Luganil Brown NG           Vivid, slightly reddish medium brown. Metal-
                           free, especially for finished garment leather.
Luganil Brown NK           Rich medium brown; for all types of finished
                           leather.
Luganil Brown NGB          Rich, yellowish medium brown, especially
                           recommended for all types of finished leather
                           (shoe uppers, upholstery leather and garment
                           leather) and for nubuck and suede shoe
                           uppers.
                           Brilliant, reddish medium brown, for shoe
Luganil Brown MFR
                           uppers (aniline, nubuck and suede), upholstery
                           leather and garment leather (aniline and
                           finished).
156
                                                           Drum Dyeing
Luganil Olive Brown N Yellowish olive brown. Iron-complex dye which
                      enhances the lightfastness of all types of shoe
                      uppers, garment leather, upholstery leather and
                      automotive leather.
Luganil Brown NGT     Yellowish medium-to-dark brown. Iron-complex
                      dye, especially recommended for all types of
                      upholstery leather, automotive leather, garment
                      leather and aniline shoe uppers.
Luganil Brown NT      Yellowish dark brown; Iron-complex dye,
                      especially recommended for all types of shoe
                      upper, upholstery and garment leather.
Luganil Brown NR      Slightly reddish dark brown; metal-free, for
                      finished, nubuck and suede shoe uppers and
                      finished upholstery leather.
Luganil Brown RL      Dark medium brown. Iron-complex dye,
                      especially recommended for all types of shoe
                      upper leather with high lightfastness, and for
                      unfinished upholstery leather and garment
                      leather.
Luganil Red Brown NB Very reddish medium brown. Gives excellent
                      results on aniline, nubuck and suede shoe
                      uppers, unfinished upholstery leather, garment
                      leather and automotive leather.
Luganil Red NG        Fiery, yellowish red; metal-free.
Luganil Red EB        Slightly bluish red; metal-free, with comparati-
                      vely high lightfastness.
Luganil Bordeaux B    Neutral shade of bordeaux.
                      Clean, vivid medium blue.
Luganil Blue NL
Luganil Blue NGR      Neutral, vivid blue; metal-free.
                      Slightly reddish blue.
Luganil Blue N
Luganil Dark Blue NB  Navy blue; metal-free.
                                                                    157
Drum Dyeing
Luganil Green NG          Vivid, yellowish green.
Luganil Dark Green N Dark green dye with high colour strength,
                          metal-free.
Luganil Grey GC           Yellowish shade of grey.
Luganil Black CN          Slightly reddish black. Recommended for
                          improving the lightfastness of aniline, nubuck
                          and suede shoe uppers and all types of
                          upholstery, automotive and garment leather.
Luganil Black NT          Intense, metal-free black dye. Recommended
                          for all types of shoe upper, upholstery, automo-
                          tive and garment leather.
Luganil Dyes Liquid
The Luganil Dyes Liquid are low salt anionic dyes possessing high colour
strength and high-level dyeing properties. They are suitable for dyeing all
types of leather.
Luganil Yellow            Pale, yellowish brown.
Brown CL Liquid
Luganil Orange            Reddish orange.
2R Liquid
Luganil Brown             Slightly reddish dark brown.
BL Liquid
Luganil Red GL Liquid Slightly bluish red.
Luganil Bordeaux RB       Neutral shade of bordeaux.
Liquid
Luganil Blue MRB          Slightly reddish blue.
Liquid
158
                                                             Drum Dyeing
Luganil Black            Neutral to slightly bluish black; metal-free dye
AS Liquid                for dyeing leathers that are required to fulfil
                         high standards of fastness, such as automotive
                         leather.
Luganil Black SL         Greyish black. Recommended for aniline shoe
Liquid                   uppers and all types of upholstery, automotive
                         and garment leather with high lightfastness.
Luganil Black TSU        Deep, neutral, metal-free black dye.
Liquid                   Recommended for all types of leather, including
                         shoe upper, upholstery, automotive and
                         garment leather.
Lurazol Dyes
A range of anionic dyes which includes dyes of uniform composition and
mixtures. Can be used to dye all types of leather.
Lurazol Beige LF         Neutral beige.
Lurazol Brown N3G        Slightly reddish brown, especially appropriate
                         for finished shoe uppers and nubuck.
Lurazol Brown SEDK       Reddish violet shade of brown; metal-free.
Lurazol Dark Brown B Slightly yellowish dark brown, metal-free, for
                         finished garment leather, upholstery leather and
                         shoe uppers.
Lurazol Red BN           Slightly bluish red.
Lurazol Red SB           Bluish red; metal-free.
Lurazol Bordeaux EBD Violet shade of bordeaux; metal-free.
Lurazol Brilliant Blue   Clean, vivid blue; metal-free.
S2G
Lurazol Brilliant Blue   Brilliant, clean blue; metal-free.
SBN
                                                                         159
Drum Dyeing
Lurazol Blue EBL       Reddish navy blue; metal-free.
Lurazol Green SEG      Bluish green; metal-free.
Lurazol Green M2GL     Bluish green.
Lurazol Black HS       Neutral to slightly reddish black; metal-free. For
                       all types of leather that are to be dyed to deep
                       black shades.
Lurazol Black VB       Slightly reddish black, metal-free. Excellent
                       penetration through all types of leather.
Lurazol Black          Reddish black, metal-free. Recommended for
MRN New                finished shoe uppers, nubuck and suede and
                       for finished upholstery and garment leather.
Lurazol Black S3T      Deep, neutral black, metal-free. Improves the
                       buffability of nubuck and suede.
Lurazol Orange         Neutral shade of orange, especially for leather
EBR Liquid             fibre board.
Lurazol Black BAG      Slightly bluish black.
Liquid New
Lurazol Black          Reddish black. Recommended for aniline,
RS Liquid              nubuck and suede shoe uppers and for all
                       types of upholstery, automotive and garment
                       leather.
Lurazol Black P Liquid Special finely dispersed preparation of a metal-
                        free, neutral black pigment with high colour
                        strength. Improves penetration and colour
                        strength in combination with black dyes from
                        the Luganil and Lurazol ranges and enhances
                        levelling, lightfastness and coverage of defects.
                        Recommended for all types of finished shoe
                        upper, upholstery, automotive and garment
                        leather.
160
                                                              Drum Dyeing
Selected Lurazol and Luganil Dyes with particularly good
penetration
1. Special Lurazol Dyes:
   Lurazol Black P Liquid
2. Luganil Dyes in the brown range:
   Luganil Brown  NK
   Luganil Brown  NGB
   Luganil Brown  NGT
   Luganil Brown  NR
   Luganil Brown  NT
   Luganil Brown  RL
3. Luganil Dyes in the coloured range:
   Luganil Red Brown NB
   Luganil Red NG
   Luganil Blue NL
   Luganil Blue NGR
   Luganil Green NG
   Luganil Dark Green N
BASF basic dyes
Cationic charge. Give full shades on anionic substrate.
Leather Black              Cationic dye, metal-free. Intense, reddish black.
VM Liquid
                                                                        161
Drum Dyeing
Dyeing auxiliaries
Anionic products    Levelling agents for anionic dyes;
                    Fixing agents for cationic dyes.
Tamol GA           Lightfast anionic levelling agent for leather dyed
                   to dark shades with anionic dyes. Mordant for
                   basic dyes.
Tamol M/Tamol MB   Anionic dispersing and levelling agents for
                   improving the penetration of anionic dyes and
                   tanning agents.
Tamol PM Liquid    Anionic dispersing and levelling agent.
                   Promotes dye penetration.
Tamol NA           Dispersing agent with a pronounced buffering
                   effect for retanning agents and dyes. Enables
                   leather to be dyed to intense, level shades.
Tamol NNOL         Lightfast anionic levelling agent for pale shades
                   dyed with anionic dyes.
Tamol NNI          Dispersing and levelling agent. Promotes the
                   penetration of dyes through chrome-tanned
                   leather and wet white leather and gives more
                   level shades.
Densotan A         Anionic polymer solution used to boost
                   penetration and levelling. Can also be used
                   to wet back crust.
162
                                                      Drum Dyeing
Cationic products Fixing agents for anionic dyes;
                  Levelling agents for cationic dyes.
Tamol R           Weakly cationic dyeing auxiliary used to pro-
                  mote penetration and improve levelling on
                  slightly retanned chrome leather. Negligible
                  brightening effect.
Bastamol B        High-performance cationic fixing agent for anio-
                  nic dyes, fatliquors and tanning agents. Enhan-
                  ces washfastness and perspiration resistance.
Bastamol DRN      Cationic fixing agent supplied in liquid form.
                  Especially effective for improving the washfast-
                  ness and perspiration resistance of leathers
                  dyed with anionic dyes. Can be used to deepen
                  shades, especially black.
Lipamin OK        Cationic auxiliary used to reverse the charge
                  and deepen the shade of anionic dyes. Can
                  also be used to fix anionic dyes.
Special products
Amollan IP        Water-miscible penetrator for impregnating and
                  spray staining.
Eusapon S         Nonionic surfactant for wetting back crust.
Eusapon W         Low-foaming surfactant for wetting back crust.
Lipoderm N        Anionic levelling agent and dispersing agent
                  with a slight fatliquoring effect.
                                                                 163
Drum Dyeing
Dyeing methods
1. Drum dyeing (drum, mixer, three-chamber automatic dyeing machine)
   a. Dyeing in hot float
      Most frequently used method.
   b. Dyeing without float (dry or powder dyeing)
      Effects accelerated penetration. To achieve good levelness of
      shade the temperature should not exceed 25 °C.
   c. Dyeing in steps (sandwich dyeing)
      Depth of shade is improved by adding acid or cationic dyeing
      auxiliary between two dye additions.
   d. Effect dyeing
      Production of cloudy, patchy or marbled dyeings with two- or
      multitone effects.
   e. One-side drum dyeing
      Reverse side resisting with special polymer products.
2. Paddle dyeing
   Dyeing in long floats. Mainly used for dyeing wool sheep skins to
   prevent felting of the wool.
3. Dyeing in the through-feed machine (Multima)
   Dip dyeing of crust leather; very short immersion time in dye liquor.
4. Colouring by curtain coater
5. Colouring by roll coater
6. Colouring by screen printing
   A printing paste is pressed by means of a squeegee onto the leather
   through a fine screen with a negative pattern (mono- or multicoloured).
7. Spray staining
   Application of dye solutions by means of a compressed air spraygun.
   Depth of penetration is regulated by the addition of organic solvents
   or penetrators.
8. Tray dyeing and brush staining. Methods only seldom used nowadays.
164
                                                              Drum Dyeing
Parameters of dyeing in the production of high-quality leathers
Quality requirements:
1. Perfect levelness of shade
2. Maximum depth of shade achieved with minimum amount of dye
3. Good covering of defects
4. High colour fastness
5. Complete dye penetration
Influencing factors
1. Neutralization:
   a. Uniform neutralization is essential (overneutralization and
      unsatisfactory neutralization should be avoided).
   b. Increasing the pH value improves penetration in dyeing and
      retanning, but reduces the absorption of dyes.
   c. Addition of masking products also improves penetration of dyes
      and retanning agents and reduces absorption rate of dyes
      (as in b.). They may have a bleach effect and improve the levelness
      of shade (overneutralization may impair the levelness).
2. Retanning:
   a. Purely chrome tanned leather has the highest affinity for anionic
      dyes.
   b. Any retanning changes the absorption behaviour and fixation of
      anionic dyes.
   c. Conventional self-tanning, white-tanning and polymer tanning
      agents reduce the affinity and give level but bleached shades.
      High amounts may impair dye fixation and may result in
      unlevelness during drying.
                                                                        165
Drum Dyeing
Depth of shade in relation to retanning
                                                         purely chrome
                                               Regulan GT 50
                                            Tamol NA
                                    Basyntan AN
                               Tamol M
                          vegetable tanning material
                     conventional syntans
0                                                     100 % depth of shade
            20        40         60         80
3. Fatliquoring:
   a. Higher sulfited or sulfochlorinated fatliquors may reduce the
      absorption properties and/or cause stripping of dye.
   b. Depending on the kind and amount of emulsifying components,
      improved penetration and levelness of shade can be achieved with
      reduced depth of shade (e. g. Densotan A, Densodrin EN,
      or Lipoderm N).
4. Dyeing auxiliaries:
   a. Anionic products have a levelling effect on anionic dyes and a fixing
      effect on cationic dyes.
   b. Cationic products have a levelling effect on cationic dyes and a
      fixing effect on anionic dyes.
5. Choice of dyes:
   Dyes that are used together in a dyeing formulation must be combin-
   able with each other, as otherwise unlevel shades will result. Combin-
   ability is dependent on
   – chemical structure,
   – absorption rate of dyes,
   – build-up properties of dyes,
   – kind of retanning.
   Improvements may be achieved by the use of dyeing auxiliaries, such
   as Tamol R, Tamol NNOL, Tamol M.
166
                                                               Drum Dyeing
6. Addition of dyes:
   a. Addition in dissolved form is beneficial, particularly for high-quality
      aniline dyeings.
   b. Addition of dyes in several portions increases the depth and level-
      ness of shades.
7. Float length:
   High float lengths promote distribution of dyes and auxiliaries.
   Particularly important:
   – if affinity of dyes or auxiliaries is high,
   – if chamber dyeing vessels are used.
8. Dyeing temperature:
   a. High dyeing temperatures increase the affinity and absorption rate
      of dyes (may impair levelness of resulting shades on retanned
      leathers) and improve fixation of dyes.
   b. Low dyeing temperatures promote distribution of dyes during
      dyeing process and reduce fixation of dyes.
   c. The optimum procedure is to maintain a low temperature (30 °C) at
      the beginning of the dyeing process and a high temperature
      (> 50 °C) towards the end of the dyeing process to fix the dyes.
Absorption rate in relation to temperature
Example showing Luganil Brown NT at a pH value of 6.5
                      Dye absorbed after
                      5 min           10 min     20 min          30 min
at 30 °C              55 %            70 %       86 %            92 %
at 50 °C              62 %            74 %       87 %            93 %
                                                                          167
Drum Dyeing
9. Fixation:
    a. Addition of formic acid in one portion only if dye is extensively
        absorbed. If dye is still contained in the dyebath, addition should
        be made in several portions, as otherwise levelness is impaired.
    b. Running time after addition of formic acid is dependent on thick-
        ness and pH value of leathers. If running time is too short, poor
        fixation of dyes and unsatisfactory levelness of shades will result.
    c. Fixation with strongly cationic products (Bastamol B, Bastamol
        DRN) should, in principle, be carried out in a fresh bath. Before
        addition of fixing agents, the fixing bath should contain only the
        least amounts of dyes, as otherwise the fastness to wet and dry
        rubbing is impaired. The amount to use is dependent on the
        amount of dye employed, and on the thickness and type of leather
        (grain leather, suede).
Through-feed dyeing machine
(Multima-type = Staub patent)
Principle: the crust leather to be dyed is passed through a heatable dye
solution. The penetration achieved depends on the dyeing conditions.
  leather
                                                                   dyed
  feed-in
                                                                 leather
Advantages compared to drum dyeing:
1. More rapid production of dyeings starting from crust leather.
2. Less water and energy required.
3. Good penetration.
4. The processing operations samming, setting out and toggling become
    superfluous.
168
                                                       Drying
Drying
Drying methods for leather
1. Air-drying without supply of energy (hang-drying)
2. Air-drying with supply of energy
   a. air circulation method (hang-drying)
   b. drying in channel, tunnel, chamber (hang-drying)
   c. wet-toggled drying
   d. paste drying
3. Hot water drying
   a. Secotherm process (paste drying)
4. Infrared drying
5. Vacuum drying
6. High-frequency drying
                                                          169
Drying
Air humidity
1. Maximum air humidity:
   = maximum amount of water vapour in gram contained in 1 m3 air at a
      certain temperature (saturation capacity).
               g/m3                                      g/m3
°C                                          °C
– 20            1.06                          35          39.5
– 10            2.30                          40          50.9
– 5             3.36                          45          64.9
± 0             4.89                          50          82.7
   5            6.80                          55         105.0
  10            9.4                           60         130
  15           12.8                           70         197
  20           17.2                           80         293
  25           23.0                           90         419
  30           30.2                         100          590
2. Absolute air humidity:
   = the actual amount of water vapour in gram present in 1 m3 air.
3. Relative air humidity (in percent)
                           absolute air humidity in g/m3
R.H. % =
               maximum air humidity in g/m3 (saturation capacity)
Various moisture contents of leather
Ready for shaving      = 30 – 45 % moisture
After drying           =    8 – 14 % moisture
After conditioning     = 18 – 22 % moisture
After sawdusting       = 26 – 32 % moisture
(moistening)
170
                                                                                     Drying
Machines for dry finishing – operating principles
 Jaw-type staking machine                    Vibration staking machine (Mollisa type)
                            upper jaw
        plastic
        plate
 clamping
 device                    pivoting rubber roll
                                       leather
                                                                                   leather
                            lower jaw
          adjustable steel staking blades
                           Air-blast dedusting machine
                                            dust exhaust
                               compressed
                               air supply
                                                                  leather
                                               conveyor belt
                        Through-feed buffing machine
                           leather
                                                             buffing cylinder
                                                                           dust
                                                                           exhaust
                                     brush rolls
                                                                                         171
Drying
Flow chart of processes from wet blue to dry finishing
                            Wet blue – shaved
                                 Washing
                               Neutralizing
                                 Washing
                                Retanning
                                  Dyeing
                               Fatliquoring
                                   Fixing
                                Horsing up
                                Setting out
                                  Drying
                               Conditioning
                                  Staking
                                 Toggling
                                 Trimming
                           Sorting for finishing
The order in which the individual processes are carried out can be varied
                 to produce the type of leather desired.
172
                                                                    Finishing
Finishing
The term "finishing” is used in the leather industry to describe a whole
series of processes and operations which improve the properties and
appearance of the leather and finally turn it into that exquisite material.
It is the final chemical and mechanical treatment of the leather before
manufacturing end products (shoes, bags, wallets, clothes, etc.).
Purpose
To improve the use serviceability of the leather in general by:
• protecting it from damage by water, soil and mechanical action;
• improving its physical properties such as its lightfastness and rub
     fastness
• levelling out patches and grain faults;
• applying an artificial grain layer to splits or corrected grain leathers;
• modifying the surface properties (shade, lustre, handle, etc.).
Finishing is often used to obtain fashionable effects.
Classification of finishes
a. According to the finishing techniques:
     • Spray finish: Finishes applied exclusively by spraying.
     • Roll coating finish: Applied by screen rollers or engraved rollers.
     • Curtain coating finish: Highly covering coats applied to such
        leathers as corrected grain or splits.
     • Padding
     • Film transfer finish: Polymer foils or lamination. Also made with two
        component PU mixtures on coating machine (direct or reverse
        process).
     • Glaze finish: Glazing machine and non-thermoplastic binders. High
        quality leathers.
     • Plate finish: Different types of plating machines. High gloss and
        smooth films.
     • Glaze/plate finish: Combination of both.
     • Embossed finish: Artificial or fancy grain by embossing.
     • Foam finish: Highly covering finish especially for furniture and car
        seat leathers.
                                                                           173
Finishing
b. According to the finishing effects:
   • Corrected grain finish: Buffed leathers with high covering finish,
      embossed.
   • Aniline finish: Unpigmented transparent coats. Natural appearance
      of the grain.
   • Semianiline finish: Small amounts of pigment and/or dyes mixed
      together with binders or covering base coat plus aniline top coat
      with dyes only.
   • Opaque finish: Covering pigments and binders.
   • Brush-off finish: Two-tone effect that appears after using a felt
      polishing disk.
   • Easy-care finish
   • Antique finish: Irregular two-tone effect normally made by applying
      waxes.
   • Fancy finish
   • Two- or multi-tone finish: Applied in two or more finishing coats of
      different colours by angle spraying, padding or printing.
   • Invisible finish: Impression of unfinished surface using light coats
      and mechanical operations.
   • Craquele finish: Cracked effect.
c. According to the main finishing material used:
   • Polymer or binder finish: The most common. Applying formulations
      of thermoplastic binders based on polyacrylate, polyurethane or
      polybutadiene and subsequent plating.
   • Casein finish: Non thermoplastic protein or protein-like products for
      glazed finishing.
   • Nitrocellulose solution or emulsion finish: Solvent lacquer. Film for-
      ming material is nitrated cellulose dissolved in organic solvents.
      Emulsion lacquers are water dilutable.
   • CAB-finish solvent lacquer based on cellulose aceto-butyrate.
      Better resistance to yellowing than nitrocellulose.
   • Patent finish: Thick polyurethane lacquer coat, high gloss finish.
174
                                                                Finishing
General structure of finish
                  Spray staining e.g. with Eukesolar Dyes 150 Liquid,
 Spray staining   to colour the surface of undyed leather or to level
                  drum dyed shades.
                  Impregnation, e.g. with Corial Binder IF and Amollan
 Grain
                  IP, to tighten the grain and impart a settled appea-
 impregnation
                  rance and smoothness to the surface.
                  The adhesive coat consists of pigments, binders and
 Adhesive coat    auxiliaries to ensure good adhesion of the whole
                  finish coat. Today generally aqueous systems are
                  used for adhesive coats.
                  The (pigmented) base coat is usually harder than the
 Base coat
                  adhesive coat. It imparts the desired appearance to
 (pigmented)
                  the leather and levels out the surface. Today gene-
                  rally aqueous systems are used for (pigmented) base
                  coats.
                  The top coat determines the final appearance and
 Top coat         the handle of the leather surface and has a decisive
                  influence on the fastness properties of the finish.
                                                                      175
Finishing
Leather finishes and dyes
Brightening dyes
Used together with pigment finishes of high covering power or alone in
top coating mixtures to enhance the brilliance of plate and glaze finishes
or of spray and brush stained shades.
The brightening dyes should meet the following requirements:
• compatibility with finishing agents,
• good light fastness,
• fastness to bleeding and hot plating,
• good fixing properties,
• fastness to alkali and formaldehyde,
• low content of extenders.
1. Water-soluble or water dilutable brightening dyes
   Chiefly the Eukesolar Dyes 150 Liquid are used and to a less extent
   selected anionic dyes of the Luganil and Luganil Liquid ranges or
   colour lakes (about 2 parts anionic dye stirred together with 1 part
   basic dye in dissolved form at boiling temperature).
2. Solvent-soluble brightening dyes
   Eukesolar Dyes 150 Liquid
BASF dyes for spraying, curtain coating and printing and for sha-
ding finishes
Eukesolar 150 liquid dyes
Special metal complex dyes of uniform composition dissolved in an
organic solvent. They can be diluted with water or with solvents. Mainly
used for spraying, curtain coating, roll coating and printing. Can also be
used for dyeing and shading finishes and for printing designs on leather.
Dyes of this type are distinguished by their high brilliance, high lightfast-
ness and resistance to spotting by water droplets.
Eukesolar Yellow G 150 Liquid              Greenish yellow.
Eukesolar Yellow R 150 Liquid              Reddish yellow.
Eukesolar Orange R 150 Liquid              Neutral orange.
Eukesolar Red G 150 Liquid                 Neutral red.
Eukesolar Red B 150 Liquid                 Bluish red.
176
                                                                       Finishing
Eukesolar Rubine B 150 Liquid                  Bluish rubine shade of red.
Eukesolar Brown 2G 150 Liquid                  Yellowish brown.
Eukesolar Brown 5R 150 Liquid                  Reddish brown.
Eukesolar Brown 2RG 150 Liquid                 Violet shade of brown.
Eukesolar Brown R 150 Liquid                   Dark brown.
Eukesolar Brilliant Blue 150 Liquid            Strong, deep blue.
Eukesolar Navy Blue R 150 Liquid               Slightly reddish dark blue.
Eukesolar Black R 150 Liquid                   Deep, neutral black.
Eukesolar Black 2R 150 Liquid                  Very deep, reddish black.
Eukesolar Blue FL Liquid                       Slightly greenish blue.
Pigment colours
In contrast to dyes (only absorption) pigment colours act by absorption
and dispersion, giving rise to an overall reflection. In leather application
mostly liquid pigment preparations with constant colour strength and
coloristic properties are used. By blending different base colours to the
final shade, a high flexibility of colour processing is achieved.
Inorganic pigments perform generally well with respect to covering, which
is important for correction of grain defects or if a high colour consistency
is requested (automotive leather). Special attention should be paid to the
use of pigments containing toxic heavy metals (mercury, cadmium, lead,
chromate VI, etc). Of course, these materials are subject to regulations
concerning consumer care (e. g. children articles). Some pigments carry
special fastness restriction, e. g. fastness to sulfide, cleaning agents with
strong complexing compounds (e.g. EDTA) or alkaline pH (soap), as well
as the ability to interact with vegetable tanning agents. Certain pigments
can start crosslinking butadiene binders by initiating radical reactions
which leads finally to a stiff and brittle film.
1. Earth colours
    White                    Gypsum (calcium sulfate)
                             Chalk (calcium carbonate)
                             Barite white (barium sulfate)
                             Barium carbonate
    Yellow                   Yellow ochre (ferric hydroxide)
    Brown                    Terra di Siena (clay with ferric hydroxide)
                             Umber (manganese-containing iron ore)
                                                                             177
Finishing
   Red                     Red ochre (various iron oxides)
   Green                   Ferric silicate
   Grey                    Graphite (carbon), slate
2. Mineral colours (synthetic pigments)
   White                   Titanium white (titanium dioxide): Rutile, Anatas
   Yellow                  Chrome yellow (lead chromate)
                           Bismuth vanadate
   Red                     Chrome red (molybdenum-modified lead
                           chromate)
   Brown                   Processed iron oxides
   Green                   Chromium oxide green
                           Chromium hydroxide green
   Blue                    Cobalt blue (cobalt/aluminium oxide)
                           Ultramarine blue (silicium/aluminium oxide)
                           Manganese blue (barium manganese oxide)
   Black                   Various carbon blacks
Organic pigments perform mostly well in brilliance and brightness, but
covering is usually poor. Applied often in transparent effect prints. Cover-
ing is maintained by combination with covering inorganic pigments or
special additives, i.e. pigment extenders, also matting agents improve
covering a lot.
Due to their organic structure, bleeding with plasticizers is sometimes
possible and tested as migration fastness. If above-average demands are
made on the fastness of the leather (e.g. as requested for automotive
leather according to ISO 105 B06) lightfastness and heat resistance
should be tested in advance.
BASF pigment preparations
They are used to give the desired covering and colour, especially in bot-
tom coats and seasons in the finishing process.
Lepton Colours N
Aqueous, casein-free pigment preparations that do not obscure the grain
pattern by overloading of the grain. With Lepton Colours N no embrittle-
ment of the base coat is observed. They are distinguished by high cover-
age, high fastness properties (e.g. wet rubfastness, lightfastness, resi-
stance to migration) and are extremely ageing resistant.
178
                                                                Finishing
Lepton White N              Clean, neutral white.
Lepton Yellow N             Vivid pale yellow.
Lepton Yellow GN            Greenish yellow; free of lead chromate.
Lepton Caramel N            Yellowish pale brown.
Lepton Brown GN             Full reddish brown.
Lepton Dark Brown N         Chocolate brown.
Lepton Red N                Vivid, neutral red.
Lepton Red BN               Slightly bluish red; free of lead chromate.
Lepton Red Violet RN        Bluish red.
Lepton Blue N               Deep, neutral blue.
Lepton Black N              Neutral black.
Eukesol Brilliant Black HSN Deep black for clear glazed finishes.
Coloured top coating agents
Corial EM Base Black DK     Black nitrocellulose pigment preparation
                            for gloss effects. Can be diluted with water
                            or organic solvents. Very versatile and very
                            easy to use, and top coats based on this
                            product have high mechanical fastness.
Corial EM Finish Black      Nitrocellulose emulsion. For top coats with
                            a pronounced filling effect and excellent
                            fastness.
                                                                      179
Finishing
Thermoplastic binders
Acrylic binders are dispersions mainly of polyacrylic, and polymeth-
acrylic esters, usually produced by radical initiated emulsion polymeriza-
tion of the unsaturated monomers.
Butadiene binders are usually produced by radical initiated emulsion
polymerization of the unsaturated monomers butadiene, and styrene.
There is only one of the two unsaturated functions of butadiene used for
polymerization, so the polymer still contains double bonds for later reac-
tions (e.g. crosslinking by radical initiated reactions with light, or special
metallic impurities of pigments).
PU (Polyurethane) binders: The polymers are produced in a two (or
more) step process by poly-addition reaction of poly-isocyanate com-
pounds and –OH terminated poly-ol compounds of varying molecular
weight. Typical isocyanates often used are aromatic TDI (toluylen-di-
isocyanate), and MDI (methylene-diphenyl-isocyanate), or aliphatic IPDI
(iso-phorone-di-isocyanate), and HDI (hexamethylene-diisocyanate) res-
pectively. As OH-functional compounds different small molecular weight
diols like butanediol-1,4, hexanediol-1,6 are used as well as polyester-
polyols from dicarbonic acids (e.g. adipic acid) and ethyleneglycol or
polyetherpolyols like polypropyleneoxide/ethyleneoxide copolymers.
Solvent based reactive systems consist of corresponding, in a non-reac-
tive organic solvent dissolved isocyanate compound (hardener) and
polyol. Mixing and reaction of the two components form the polymer
during the application, a classical two-component (2-K-)-system.
Dispersion: High molecular weight polymers which are non-soluble in
water form aqueous dispersions (like natural latex) if the polymer particles
are appropriately stabilized. The particle size of a dispersion will generally
affect some properties: the finer the particles, the clearer the appearance
at a given concentration will be, or, the coarser a dispersion is, the whiter
it will be as a liquid. On the other hand, at the same concentration, smal-
ler particles will lead to a higher viscosity compared to larger ones of the
same composition.
Polymer films are formed from dissolved or dispersed polymers by
drying.
In case of dissolved polymers, "lacquers”, this process is continuously
forming a homogeneous polymer film.
180
                                                                    Finishing
In case of polymer dispersions certain stages of drying are postulated
until at least the polymer particles will coalescence under the action of
capillary forces. This type of film formation is highly affected by proper
process, and temperature control.
Film values are property values measured at polymer films. Most com-
mon are hardness (Shore A or D), glass transition (sometimes melting)
temperature, low temperature break temperature, elongation at
break/tear strength (or E-modulus), water uptake etc. Most data are typi-
cal for a polymer performance in comparison. Yet careful interpretation is
necessary as the absolute data are highly sensitive to side parameters
like sample size (mostly much thicker as the actual filmthickness in a
finish!), shape, conditioning (air humidity!), preparation (temper effects!),
etc.
Plasticizers are additives mostly used to lower the Tg of a given polymer
to improve film formation, softness, and other properties. Plasticizers are
well known from cellulose-ester, and PVC technology, where they play an
important role in the overall polymer formulation. In modern aqueous bin-
der technology, certain "solvent" or "VOC" compounds perform as tem-
porary plasticizer during film formation.
VOC, abbreviation for Volatile Organic Compounds, are often so-called
solvents with a certain vapour pressure, which are emitted to atmosphere
during or after the application process. Nowadays in a lot of countries
VOC are subject of regulations for ecological reasons (smog-formation,
greenhouse warming).
HAPS, abbr. for Hazardous Air Polluting Substances, are special VOC
listed in inventories by authorities in USA.
Tg, abbreviation of "glass (transition) temperature”, an important property
of thermoplastic polymers, connected to minimum film formation tempe-
rature (MFT) as well as low temperature flexibility. Polymers with a Tg
lower than ambient perform generally more "soft”, polymers with a higher
Tg more "hard” or "stiff”. Typical Tg’s of some one-monomer-based poly-
mers are given in the table. By random copolymerization of different
monomers intermediate values are achieved (internal plasticizing). By
block copolymerization, in situ mixtures of different polymer building
blocks are possible having each its own Tg, so-called 2 (or more) step
polymers.
                                                                          181
Finishing
The main basic substances for the production of polymer binders
Basic substance                        Abbreviation               Tg*)
Cis-butadiene                          Bu                         – 100 °C
2-Ethylhexyl acrylate                  EHA                        –  62 °C
Hexyl acrylate                         HA                         –  57 °C
n-Butyl acrylate                       BA                         –  45 °C
Ethylacrylate                          EA                         –  24 °C
Vinylidene chloride                    VDC                        –  18 °C
Iso-butyl acrylate                     iBA                        –  10 °C
Vinyl propionate                       VPr                        +    5 °C
Methyl acrylate                        MA                         +    6 °C
Lauryl acrylate                        LA                         +  15 °C
n-Butyl methacrylate                   BMA                        +  27 °C
Vinyl acetate                          VAC                        +  28 °C
t-Butyl acrylate                       tBA                        +  35 °C
Ethyl methacrylate                     EMA                        +  65 °C
Styrene                                St                         + 100 °C
Acrylonitrile                          AN                         + 105 °C
Methyl methacrylate                    MMA                        + 105 °C
Acrylic acid                           AS                         + 165 °C
Acryloamide                            AM                         + 165 °C
Methacrylic acid                       MAS                        + 228 °C
Methacrylamide                         MAM                        + 243 °C
*) Tg = glass transition temperature at which the physical properties of
the polymerized base substance, such as refraction index and density,
undergo a change and a transition of the polymer from a glass-like to a
plastic condition takes place.
The Tg of a polyurethane molecule is made up by several facts: PU mole-
cules have a segmented structure: There are hard segments and soft
segments. Therefore at least two values of Tg (for each segment at least
one) can be found. For the cold flex behaviour of the polymer, the lower
of the two values is important. When PU molecules form a film there are
also interactions between different molecules. These interactions lead to
the phenomenon that no discrete Tg value can be measured, but a broad
region where the glass transition takes place.
In leather finishing a formulation of different polymers, pigments and fillers
is used, crosslinked by a reactive crosslinker. The Tg values of each com-
ponent are not additive. Therefore a cold crack temperature can not be
calculated by summing up the Tg values of the components of the finish.
182
                                                                     Finishing
Base coating agents and binders
1. BASF acrylic binders (aqueous)
All Corial Binder types are supplied as aqueous polymer dispersions.
Leather Ground F           Acrylic polymer solution. Penetrates deeply into
                           the leather and tightens the grain. Impregnating
                           agent for full-grain and corrected-grain leathers.
Corial Binder IF           Finely divided, flexible and water-resistant.
                           Used in impregnation and in pigmented coats.
Corial Microbinder AM Finely divided; for aniline-type finishes with a
                           natural break and high coverage for defects.
Corial Binder DN           Very soft binder with excellent flexibility at low
                           temperatures. Gives finishes with a good fill and
                           high flexometer values. Gives leather with a
                           natural, elegant break.
Corial Binder BAN          Forms tough and highly flexible films of low-
                           tack. It gives finishes with a natural, elegant
                           appearance and very high fastness.
Corial Binder ON           Forms a soft film with low-tack. Can be thick-
                           ened with ammonia.
Corial Binder OBN          Forms a soft, stretchy film with low tack.
Corial Binder OT           Forms a very flexible, low-tack film. Finish has a
                           dry, pleasant handle. Especially appropriate for
                           all types of aniline leather.
Corial Binder OK           Forms a soft, very elastic film with low tack.
                           Gives finishes with high wet fastness. Very ver-
                           satile.
                           Forms a strong, fairly rigid film. Undergoes a
Corial Binder AS
                           very large increase in viscosity when ammonia
                           is added. Excellent combinability with casein
                           binders for glazed finishes. Used as an additive
                           in curtain coating and to adjust the viscosity of
                           finishes.
                                                                            183
Finishing
Application performance of acrylic binders
                           DN
                      BAN
                                OBN
                        IF
                                                              low      filling       high
                                                                                     OT
                                                                                  OK
                                                                               ON
                                                                  AM P
                                                                       F
              low                   hardness                  high
In the following tables the acrylic binders marked with • are especially
recommended to achieve very high levels of the indicated application
performance and fastness properties.
184
                                                                                                              Fineness of
                                                                                                                          grain
                      •                 •
Leather Ground F
                      •                 •
Corial Binder IF
                      •
Corial Microbinder AM
                      •         •
Corial Binder DN
                      •
Corial Binder BAN
                                •
Corial Binder ON
                                •
Corial Binder OBN
                                •
Corial Binder OT
Corial Binder OK
Corial Binder AS
Fastness performance of acrylic binders
                                                Dry flex
                                                         Wet flex
                                                                                                                                Fullness
                                                                  Cold flex
                                                                                                                                         Penetration
                                                                            Soaking
                                                                                    resistance
                                                                                                                                                     Embossability
                                                                                                                                                                   Finishing
                                                                                                                                                                      Low tackiness
                                                                                               •
                                                                                               •              •
                                                                                               •
                                                                                                 Dry adhesion
                                                                                                              •
                                                                                                              •
                                                                                                              •
                                                                                                              Lightfastness
                                            •
Leather Ground F
                      •       •           • •
Corial Binder IF
                      •
Corial Microbinder AM
                      •       •      •      • •
Corial Binder DN
                      •       •      •      • •
Corial Binder BAN
                      •                       •
Corial Binder ON
                      •                       •
Corial Binder OBN
                      •                       •
Corial Binder OT
                      •                   •
Corial Binder OK
                                              •
Corial Binder AS
                                                185
Finishing
2. BASF compact binders
The Lepton Binder types are so called compact binders, i. e. special
formulations of binders, fillers and waxes for easy use in standard
applications.
Lepton Binder NA           Very finely divided compact binder for finishing
                           full-grain leather. Does not impair the natural
                           appearance and handle of the leather.
Lepton Binder LF           Special binder with high fastness. Gives smooth
                           finishes with a good fill and a natural handle.
                           Recommended for finishes that incorporate
                           water-based top coats.
Lepton Binder SD           Compact binder with a very pronounced filling
                           effect on full-grain leathers and splits. Very high
                           fastness and easy to use. Especially recom-
                           mended for full-grain shoe uppers.
Lepton Binder GC           Compact binder with good levelling for finishing
                           corrected-grain cattlehide. This product is
                           distinguished by its good fill and excellent fast-
                           ness. Can be applied alone or in combination
                           with other binders. Recommended for all types
                           of corrected-grain leather.
Lepton Binder PA           Compact binder with a good filling effect for
                           very elastic finishes with high fastness. Particu-
                           larly appropriate for finishing corrected-grain
                           leather.
Lepton Binder SPC          Lepton Binder SPC is a binder based on poly-
                           urethane and an acrylic polymer. It can be used
                           to formulate finishes with high coverage and
                           excellent flex resistance that give very good
                           results when they are embossed. It is particu-
                           larly recommended for finishing high-quality
                           splits and corrected-grain cattlehide, such as
                           bag leather or shoe upper leather.
186
Application performance of compact binders
                                                                     low filling          high
                                                                                               Finishing
                                                                                          SP
                                                                                    LF
                                                                                 GC    PA
                                                                                    SD
                                                                         NA
              low                 hardness                  high
In the following tables the compact binders marked with • are especially
recommended to achieve very high levels of the indicated application
performance and fastness properties.
                                                                     187
Finishing
                                                                                                                           Fineness of
                                                                                                                                       grain
                                                                                                                                             Fullness
                                                                                                                                                      Penetration
                                                                                                                                                                  Embossability
                                                                                                              Low tackiness
                     •                 •
Lepton Binder NA
                              •
Lepton Binder LF
                              •
Lepton Binder SD
                              •
Lepton Binder GC
                              •
Lepton Binder PA
                              •
Lepton Binder SPC
Fastness performance of compact binders
                                             Wet flex
                                                      Cold flex
                                                                Wet
                                                                    rubfastness
                                                                                •
                                                                                •                             •
                                                                                •
                                                                                                     Dry flex
                                                                                  Soaking
                                                                                          resistance
                                                                                                              •
                                                                                                     Lightfastness
                     •                       •
Lepton Binder NA
                     •      •            • • •
Lepton Binder LF
                                         • • •
Lepton Binder SD
                     •
Lepton Binder GC
                     •      •                •
Lepton Binder PA
                     •      •      •         •
Lepton Binder SPC
188
                                                                     Finishing
3. BASF Polyurethane binders (aqueous)
All Astacin Finish types are supplied as aqueous polyurethane dispersi-
ons. The suffix "TF” means that the corresponding products are free of
alkyl-tin compounds.
Astacin Ground UH TF Improves the adhesion of finishes applied to oily
                           or water-repellent leathers without impairing
                           their water repellency. Free of organic solvents.
Astacin Finish ARU TF Finely divided dispersion, free of organic sol-
                           vents. Forms a soft, flexible film with low tack
                           and a good fill. It does not accentuate defects
                           to any great extent. Especially appropriate for
                           finishing shoe uppers, upholstery leather and
                           garment leather.
Astacin Finish PUD         Gives highly elastic finishes with high fastness.
                           Free of organic solvents.
Astacin Finish SUSI TF Enables the highest standards of fastness to be
                           attained. It is distinguished by its softness and
                           flexibility. Especially recommended for elegant
                           finishes with a natural break. Free of organic
                           solvents.
Astacin Finish PUM         Soft polyester-polyurethane dispersion. Due to
                           its outstanding film forming properties it is
                           especially recommended for finishes with high
                           fullness. Gives finishes with high cold crack
                           resistance, good embossability and excellent
                           adhesion.
Astacin Finish             Soft polyester-polyurethane dispersion, free of
PUMN TF                    organic solvents. Fills and seals the surface of
                           the leather. Gives finishes with high cold crack
                           resistance, good plating and embossing pro-
                           perties, as well as excellent adhesion.
Astacin Finish PW TF       Dispersion of a soft polyurethane. Forms a
                           tough film with high water resistance and excel-
                           lent fastness. Especially recommended for box
                           calf-finishes of full-grain shoe uppers and bag
                           leather, and for finishes applied to nappa
                           leather and soft splits.
                                                                           189
Finishing
Astacin Finish PF TF       Forms a tough, dry, non-tacky film. Finishes for-
                           mulated with this product fulfil the highest stan-
                           dards of fastness, and have a pronounced filling
                           effect. They do not stick and they respond very
                           well to embossing.
Astacin Finish PFM TF Dispersion of polyurethane and duller. Forms a
                           tough, dry non-tacky film. Finishes formulated
                           with this product fulfil the highest standards of
                           fastness. They do not stick and respond well to
                           embossing.
Application performance of polyurethane binders
                                                             PF
                                                             TE
                                                            PFM
                                                             TF
                                         PUMN
                                          TF
                            SUSI
                                                                 filling    high
                                                                            PUD
                                                                         TF
                                                     PW
                                                      TF
                                           ARU
                                            TF
                     UH
                     TF
              low                   hardness                     high
In the following tables the polyurethane binders marked with • are espe-
cially recommended to achieve very high levels of the indicated applica-
tion performance and fastness properties.
190
Astacin Ground UH TF   •
Astacin Finish ARU TF  •
Astacin Finish PUD             •
Astacin Finish SUSI TF •       •
Astacin Finish PUM             •
Astacin Finish PUMN TF •       •
Astacin Finish PW TF           •
Astacin Finish PF TF           •
Astacin Finish PFM TF          •
Fastness performance of polyurethane binders
                                                 Dry flex                                                        Fineness of
                                                                                                                             grain
                                                          Wet flex
                                                                                                                                   Fullness
                                                                   Cold flex
                                                                                                                                            Penetration
                                                                             •
                                                                               Soaking
                                                                                       resistance
                                                                                                                                                        Embossability
                                                                                                                                                                      Finishing
                                                                                                                                                                         Low tackiness
                                                                                                                 •
                                                                                                  •
                                                                                                  •
                                                                                                  •
                                                                                                  •              •
                                                                                                  •              •
                                                                                                  •              •
                                                                                                  •
                                                                                                    Dry adhesion
                                                                                                                 •
                                                                                                                 Lightfastness
Astacin Ground UH TF                •        •
Astacin Finish ARU TF  •            •        •
Astacin Finish PUD                  •      •
Astacin Finish SUSI TF •            •        • •
Astacin Finish PUM     •     •      •      • • •
Astacin Finish PUMN TF •            •        •
Astacin Finish PW TF   •     •      •        • •
Astacin Finish PF TF   •     •      •        • •
Astacin Finish PFM TF  •     •      •        • •
                                                 191
Finishing
4. BASF butadiene binder
Corial Binder BU      Gives non-tacky finishes with an excellent fill
                      and a good response to embossing. Can be
                      applied to splits and as a filler in many different
                      types of finish.
5. Non-thermoplastic BASF binders and top coats (water-dilutable)
Luron Binder U        Thermosetting binder and top coat for plated
                      and glazed finishes. Improves the resistance of
                      finishes to acetone and their resistance to pla-
                      ting at high temperatures.
Luron Lustre E        Elastic, thermosetting binder for glazed finishes.
Luron Lustre TE       Elastic, thermosetting binder for glazed finishes.
                      Reduces the tack of polymer finishes.
Luron Lustre CO       Compact binder for glazed finishes applied to
                      corrected-grain leather.
Luron Matting         Matting agent for thermosetting finishes. Can
                      also be used as a filler for many types of plated
                      finishes.
Luron Top             Tough top coat which responds well to embos-
                      sing. Especially appropriate for aniline leathers.
Luron Top AC          For glazed, high-gloss finishes.
192
                                                                    Finishing
Top coats and lacquers
1. BASF top coating agents (water-dilutable)
All products with the suffix "TF” are free of alkyl-tin compounds
Astacin Matting MA TF Aqueous matt top coat based on polyurethane.
                           Dullness is very stable against repolishing. Very
                           flexible at low temperatures. Can also be used
                           in base coats.
Astacin Matting MT         Polyurethane dispersion. Gives a water-resi-
                           stant, matt finish with a pleasant handle and
                           high cold flex resistance.
Astacin Matting MTB Polyurethane dispersion. Aqueous matt top
                           coat with high water resistance. For finishes
                           that are required to meet high standards of
                           ageing resistance. Very flexible at low tempera-
                           tures.
Astacin Top UT             Polyurethane dispersion for use in lightfast top
                           coats with medium gloss, high cold crack resi-
                           stance and high fastness.
Astacin Top GA TF          Polyurethane dispersion. Forms a soft, flexible
                           film with low tack. Used as the gloss compo-
                           nent of aqueous finishes that are expected to
                           fulfil the highest standards of fastness. Can also
                           be employed in base coats.
Astacin Top LH TF          Polyurethane dispersion for aqueous, high-
                           gloss finishes. Can be used for patent leather.
Lepton Matting T           Gives a deep matt finish. Leathers have a plea-
                           sant, dry handle and a settled appearance.
                           Mainly used in solvent-free finishes and top
                           coats, but can also be used for emulsion-type
                           finishes that contain solvents.
                                                                          193
Finishing
Lepton Top LB           Easy-to-use gloss top coat for aqueous
                        finishes. This product gives finishes with high
                        mechanical fastness, variable gloss and a
                        smooth, pleasant handle without any crosslin-
                        king agents having to be used. However, top
                        coats can be crosslinked with Astacin Hardener
                        CN or Corial Hardener AZ if above-average
                        demands are made on the fastness of the
                        leather.
Lepton Top HT           Novel acrylic top coat. Finishes with a very
                        natural appearance and high fastness can be
                        obtained without any additional crosslinking
                        agents having to be added. However, top coats
                        can be crosslinked with Astacin Hardener CN or
                        Corial Hardener AZ if above-average demands
                        are made on the fastness of the leather. Lepton
                        Top HT can be used in finishes applied to a
                        wide variety of different types of leather, such
                        as shoe upper leather, bag leather, garment
                        leather and upholstery leather.
2. BASF top coating agents: Nitrocellulose emulsions
   (dilutable with water and/or solvents)
Corial EM Finish G      Nitrocellulose emulsion which can be used as a
                        top coat or as a co-binder for finishes. Gives
                        leathers with a pleasant lustre, a natural handle
                        and high fastness.
Corial EM Finish ES     Nitrocellulose emulsion. Gives a soft, silky
                        handle. Especially appropriate for finishing all
                        types of garment leather.
Corial EM Finish KN     Nitrocellulose emulsion which can be used as a
                        top coat or as a co-binder for finishes in combi-
                        nation with polymer dispersions. Leathers
                        finished with this product have a very high
                        gloss, excellent wet rubfastness and a natural
                        handle.
194
                                                                 Finishing
Corial EM Finish M       Nitrocellulose emulsion. Gives a matt or silky
                         matt finish with high fastness and a smooth
                         handle.
3. BASF gloss and matt lacquers
   (dilutable only with organic solvents)
Corial Lacquer AW        Soft lacquer. Very high fastness and high gloss.
Corial Matt              Amine-resistant top coat for matt leathers with
Lacquer CMR              high fastness. Free of nitro groups and resistant
                         to yellowing. The solids contained in this pro-
                         duct do not pose any fire hazard. Very appro-
                         priate choice for white and pale shades.
Corial Matt              Gives a silky matt finish with a supple handle.
Lacquer NW
Corial EM Top SL         Nitrocellulose emulsion with a pronounced filling
                         effect for use in water-resistant top coats with
                         high lustre. Gives a smooth, waxy handle.
                                                                        195
Finishing
BASF finishing auxiliaries
1. Crosslinking agents
Astacin Hardener CN    Highly concentrated isocyanate crosslinking
                       agent for aqueous finishes. Very easy to mix
                       into finishes. Fulfils the highest standards of
                       fastness.
Corial Hardener AZ     Crosslinking agent for polymer binders. Easy to
                       mix into finishes. Fulfils the highest standards of
                       fastness, especially the wet rubfastness.
2. Fillers and waxes
Lepton Filler CEN      Plate-release agent for base coats. Improves
                       levelling and gives leathers with a full, settled
                       appearance and a natural, pleasant handle.
Lepton Filler FCG      Filler and plate-release agent with a matting
                       effect. Gives finishes with a good fill and a
                       smooth, settled appearance. Especially recom-
                       mended for finishing corrected-grain leather
                       and splits.
Lepton Filler K        Gives finishes with a good fill and a settled
                       appearance on many different types of leather.
                       Improves levelling and imparts thixotropy.
Lepton Filler H        Modified wax emulsion for improving the level-
                       ling and fill of finishes. Gives a silky, waxy
                       handle.
Lepton Matting MF      Applied in base coats. Finishes that contain
                       Lepton Matting MF have a good fill, and the
                       leather has a very matt, non-tacky surface.
                       Lepton Matting MF is recommended for all
                       types of full-grain and corrected-grain leather
                       with a pigmented or semi-aniline finish, especi-
                       ally upholstery, automotive and shoe upper
                       leather.
196
                                                         Finishing
Lepton Wax A    Cationic wax emulsion. Improves the handle
                and fill of finishes, and prevents leathers
                sticking when they are plated or piled. Gives a
                waxy handle.
Lepton Wax B    Nonionic wax emulsion. Improves the handle
                and gives a smoother, more glossy surface.
                Excellent plate-release agent. Especially appro-
                priate for use in finishes based on thermoplastic
                binders.
Lepton Wax 11   Used in base coats and top coats as a plate-
                release agent and to improve the response of
                the finish to glazing. Used in base coats to
                obtain pull-up effects after polishing or plating.
Lepton Wax 16   Plate-release agent for use in base coats and
                aqueous top coats. Gives a soft, muted handle.
Lepton Wax 20   Plate-release agent for use in base coats and
                aqueous top coats. Does not impair the wet
                rubfastness. Used in base coats to obtain a
                slight pull-up effect after polishing.
Lepton Wax P 60 Concentrated wax emulsion for use in base
                coats. Gives very high, even coverage, which
                makes it particularly effective for upgrading
                fancy leathers, shoe uppers and upholstery
                leather made from low-quality raw stock.
3. Specialities
Amollan IP      Penetrant for use in combination with impreg-
                nating agents for corrected-grain leathers and
                in finishes applied by spraying.
Amollan E       Defoamer for highly viscous finishes applied by
                forward roll coating. Gives excellent levelling.
                Used in combination with Amollan VC.
                                                                197
Finishing
Amollan VC             High-performance levelling agent for all types of
                       finishes. Particularly appropriate for use in
                       highly viscous finishes applied by forward roll
                       coating. Used in combination with Amollan E.
Amollan Lustre VN      Glazing agent for nubuck and suede. Used to
                       increase the colour strength and brilliance of
                       the shade.
Lepton Filler AF       Foaming agent for foam finishes applied accor-
                       ding to the BASF Airfoam System. Stabilizes
                       foam.
Lepton Paste VL        Used to adjust the viscosity of aqueous
                       finishes. Especially appropriate for use in
                       finishes that employ polyurethane binders.
Eukesol Oil SR         Plasticizer for casein-based pigmented coats
                       and binders.
Eukesol Oil Ground     Cationic oil emulsion, capable of being dyed
                       with basic dyes. Compatible with anionic bin-
                       ders. Reduces the absorbency of the leather
                       surface and improves its elasticity.
4. Pull-up oils and waxes
Eukesol Oil 4070       For pronounced pull-up effects.
Eukesol Oil 4080       For pronounced pull-up effects with a waxy
                       handle.
Eukesol Oil SLP        For pronounced pull-up effects with an oily
                       handle.
Eukesol Oil HP         For pull-up effects on water-resistant leathers.
                       Free of organic solvents. Does not impair the
                       water resistance of the leather. Can also be
                       used as a handle modifier for suede.
198
                                                             Finishing
Eukesol Wax SFB    Solid, solvent-free wax for pronounced pull-up
                   effects. Gives a dry handle and does not impair
                   the water resistance of the leather.
Corial Wax SV      Pull-up wax dissolved in an organic solvent.
5. Handle modifier
Corial Wax S       Handle modifier for solvent-based finishes.
                   Gives a soft, silky handle.
Corial Wax EG      Handle modifier for aqueous and solvent-based
                   finishes. Gives a smooth handle.
Corial Wax EBT     Handle modifier for aqueous and solvent-based
                   finishes. Gives a slightly sticky handle.
Corial Wax G       Makes the surface of the finished leather smoo-
                   ther, silkier and softer. Can also be used to
                   improve the rubfastness in many cases.
Corial Wax H       Water-repellent wax dissolved in organic sol-
                   vents. For nappalan, nubuck and suede. Can
                   be used in all types of solvent-based finish.
Lepton Wax WA      Used to improve the wet rubfastness of
                   aqueous finishes. Gives better levelling and
                   improves the performance of all types of finish
                   tested by the Taber method. Gives a smooth
                   handle.
Lepton Wax CS      Handle modifier for aqueous finishes. Gives a
                   soft, smooth handle and improves the wet rub-
                   fastness.
                   Used to improve the rubfastness of all types of
Corial Wax TA
                   finish tested by the Taber method.
                                                                   199
Finishing
Solvents and diluents used in finishing
1. Solubilizers for aqueous systems
                                                                                                                                        Product
                                                                                                                                                Abbreviation
                                                                                                                                                             Boiling range °C
                                                                                                                                                                              Flash point °C
                                                                                                                                                                                             Ignition temp. °C
                                                                       Density at
                                                                                  20/4 °C g/cm3
                                                                                                Water solubility,
                                                                                                                  20 °C (g/100 g
                                                                                                                                 water)
                                                                                                                                        Risk class VbF
1-Methoxypropanol-2*         PM     119-122    32 270 0.962            A II
Butylglycol (2-Butoxy-       BG     168–172    67 230 0.8995–0.902     A III
ethanol)*
Butyldiglycol (2-(2-         BDG    228–232 105 210 0.952–0.956        –
Butoxyethoxy)-ethanol)*
Dipropyleneglycol-methyl- DPM       185-195    80 205 0.957            A III
ether (tech. Mixture)*
Propylenecarbonate**         PC     240-243 123 455 1.204          240 –
N-Methylpyrrolidone          NMP    204        91 245 1.028            A III
dist.**
* recommended as substitutes for Ethylglycol
** potential substitutes for Dimethylformamide (DMF)
200
2. Solvents for lacquers
                                                                        Product
                                                                                Abbreviation
                                                                                             Boiling range °C
                                                                                                              Flash point °C
                                                                                                                             Ignition temp. °C
                                                                                                                                               Density at
                                                                                                                                                          20/4 °C g/cm3
                                                                                                                                                                        Water solubility,
                                                                                                                                                                                          20 °C (g/100 g
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Finishing
                                                                                                                                                                                                          water)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Risk class VbF
Ethyl acetate (Acetic            74– 78 –6   460 0.898–0.902 8        AI
acid ethylester)
iso-Butylacetate (Acetic i-BuAc 115–118 19.5 425 0.866–0.871 6.1      A II
acid iso-butylester)
n-Butylacetate (Acetic   n-BuAc 124–128 26.5 415 0.880–0.881 5.9      A II
acid n-butylester)
2-Ethyl-hexylacetate            192–205 77   270 0.870–0.875          A III
Butylglycolacetate              185–188 76   300 0.940                A III
These products can be used instead of Toluene or Xylene as solvents for
lacquers.
Although the solvents listed in the tables are less hazardous than pre-
viously used solvents, the necessary precautions when handling organic
solvents must be observed.
                                                                        201
Finishing
Operating principle of compressed air spraying machine and
spraygun
                                   jet needle
             finish feed-in
          compressed air               compressed air
      compressed air                      compressed air
                   air jet             air jet
                     atomised dye solution
202
                                                        Finishing
Operating principle of curtain coater
           finish feed-in
                                                head
                                         finish curtain
     leather conveyor
          overflow pipe
        for maintaining
         constant level
                                      finish
                                      supply tank
                                                              203
Finishing
Operating principle of roll coater
         a. Direct process
                                feed doctor blade
                                   finish
              screen or
                                                    doctor blade
              pattern roll
               leather
             backing roll
                                                conveyor belt
         b. Indirect process
                                         feed doctor blade
                                     finish
                                                  rubber roll
         screen or
                                                    doctor blade
         pattern roll
                 leather
                                                 conveyor belt
204
                                                                  Finishing
Terms applied to some types of leather
1 ”ASA” leather          = chrome tanned cattle hide/splits for protec-
                           tive articles used in industry ("DIN” leather).
2 Bag leather            = vegetable/combination tanned leather for
                           bags.
3 ”Blankleder”           = vegetable tanned, fairly thick cattle hide
                           leather for belts and seats.
4 Book binding leather = thin, vegetable/synthetic tanned sheep and
                           goat skins.
5 Box calf               = chrome tanned, elegant calf skin upper
                           leather.
6 Box side               = chrome tanned cattle hide upper leather; soft
                           types = softy box sides.
7 Car upholstery leather = soft cattle hide grain leather with high-grade
                           finish.
8 Chamois                = fish oil tanned sheep skin splits; very soft and
                           absorbent.
9 Chevrette              = imitation glazed kid; mostly sheep or fairly
                           large goat skins.
10 Clothing leather      = thin, soft leathers from cattle hides, sheep
                           and goat skins.
11 Corrected grain       = chrome tanned cattle hide upper leather with
   leather                 corrected grain surface.
12 Furniture leather     = chrome tanned, thin, soft, large area cattle
                           hide.
13 Glazed kid            = elegant, fine-grained, chrome tanned goat
                           skin upper leather.
14 Hat band leather      = vegetable/synthetic tanned sheep or goat
                           skin leather.
                                                                        205
Finishing
15 Hunting           = buffed cattle hide or calf skin suede leather
                       with grain on reverse side.
16 Hydraulic leather = chrome or combination tanned leather for
                       technical purposes.
17 Insole leather    = mostly combination tanned cattle hide leather
                       of medium thickness.
18 Lining leather    = vegetable combination tanned leather for
                       shoe linings.
19 Morocco leather   = vegetable tanned East Indian bastard skins
                       with characteristic boarded grain pattern for
                       bags.
20 Patent leather    = upper leather finished with high-gloss poly-
                       urethane lacquers.
21 Nappa             = generic term for all soft and light leather
                       types.
22 Nubuck leather    = tight, buffed cattle hide or calf skin leather
                       with silky feel.
23 Russet leather    = vegetable tanned, strongly fatliquored cattle
                       hide or fairly large calf skin upper leather.
24 Russia leather    = vegetable tanned cattle hide/calf skin leather
                       treated with birch tar oil.
25 Shrunk leather    = cattle hide or sheep and goat skins treated
                       with astringent tanning materials or glutaral-
                       dehyde to produce a characteristic grain
                       pattern.
26 Skiver            = vegetable or chrome-synthetic tanned thin
                       grain splits of sheep skins for book binding or
                       liming leather.
27 Softy             = a term for soft upper leather.
28 Sole leather      = vegetable tanned, unsplit cattle hide leather
                       for shoe soles.
206
                                                                Finishing
29 Suede              = leathers of all origins with velvet-like nap pro-
                        duced by abrasive action.
30 Technical leather  = leathers from various types of rawstock, spe-
                        cially tanned for transmission belting, gas-
                        kets, bellows, etc.
31 ”Vacheleder”       = in Germany a type of bottom leather, insole
                        leather.
32 “Vachette”         = thin, large, vegetable or combination tanned
                        cattle hide leather for bags.
33 Veal               = chrome tanned grasser skin upper leather
                        similar to boxcalf.
34 Waterproof leather = water-resistant chrome or combination tan-
                        ned leather, fairly thick cattle hide upper
                        leather.
35 “Wildleder”        = often used as an incorrect term for suede or
                        velvet leather.
                                                                      207
208                                                             Leather goods
Leather goods
Leather is used in the production of a variety of different articles, for
shoes, garments, upholstery and, increasingly, in the automotive sector.
Leather is a very versatile material, and the various different applications
in which it is used make very varied demands on its performance.
More than 90 % of all the leather that is produced is used in the manufac-
ture of the following products.
                      • Shoes
                      • Automotive upholstery and trim
                      • Upholstery for furniture
                      • Clothing
The processes employed in the beamhouse mainly depend on the type
of raw stock that is treated, but the choice of tannage and retannage is
largely governed by the application for which the leather is intended. This
also applies to the subsequent stages in the process, from dyeing and
fatliquoring through to finishing, which determine the individual character
and specific properties of the leather.
We at BASF supply a high-performance range of products for all stages
of the process from the beamhouse through to finishing. Information is
available on the Internet at www.basf.com/leather.
Shoe leather
Of all the leather produced world-wide, shoe upper leather accounts for
by far the largest proportion. Other types of leather such as linings, sole
leather and insole leather are also used in the production of footwear. Yet
upper leather alone is produced in very many different varieties, ranging
from lightweight, fashionable shoe uppers through to hard-wearing,
breathable uppers for sport shoes and heavy, water-resistant leather
uppers for hiking boots or industrial footwear.
                                                                          209
Leather goods
                                   Types of leather
Full-grain, aniline                       Corrected-grain cattlehide
Full-grain, semi-aniline                  Suede
Full-grain, pigmented                     Splits
Soft nappa                                Sport shoe leather
Water-resistant leather                   Leather for industrial and safety shoes
Pull-up leather                           Fancy leathers
Nubuck                                    Vegetable-tanned leather
Box calf
In spite of all this diversity, there are a number of general principles that
apply to all kinds of shoe upper leather.
Raw stock            Mainly cattlehide, but also sheepskin and goatskin, etc.
Beamhouse            It is important for hides and skins to be opened up well.
Tannages             • Chrome tannages
                     • Wet white tannages are increasingly being used for
                         children’s shoes and sport shoes.
                     • Vegetable tannages
Retannages           For a tight grain and reasonably firm leather:
                     • Vegetable tanning agents and syntans with a good
                         filling action.
                     • Resin tanning agents and dispersing agents for uni-
                         form fullness, and for enhancing the nap of nubuck
                         and suede.
                     • Polymers for enhancing the fullness of leather and
                         tightness of the grain, improving the levelling of the
                         dyeing process and hiding defects in the grain.
                     • Aldehydes for improving the perspiration resistance,
                         especially of uppers for unlined shoes.
Dyeing               Predominately brown and black shades
                     It is usually sufficient for dyes to have moderately high
                     lightfastness and heat resistance, because a fairly heavy
                     finish is applied to the leather.
                     Stringent demands are made on the migration resi-
                     stance and perspiration resistance of dyes.
210
                                                                Leather goods
Fatliquoring         Different types and quantities of fatliquor are applied
                     depending on the type of leather.
                     The aim is to obtain a tight grain, high tensile strength
                     and high tear propagation resistance.
Water repellents Many types of shoe upper leather are increasingly
                     expected to have enhanced water resistance, and
                     modern water repellents allow these demands to be
                     met without impairing the breathability of the leather.
Finishing            • Attractive visual appearance (fashionable, elegant
                        shades)
                     • High flexibility
                     • High water resistance
                     • High resistance to staining by water droplets
                     • High permeability to water vapour
Automotive leather
Elegant leather seats are no longer exclusively found in luxury vehicles.
Buyers of mid-range vehicles are increasingly choosing a leather interior
trim. High-quality leather has a reputation for exclusivity, long life and ser-
viceability, and it is easy to maintain. Leather is used for dashboards,
door panels, steering-wheel covers and gear lever handles as well as for
seat covers and head rests.
The interior temperature inside vehicles can vary within extremely wide
limits, and the leather has to be able to withstand intense sunlight and
substantial wear and tear. Manufacturers of high-quality automotive
leather have to have a high level of expertise at all stages from the selec-
tion of raw stock through to finishing. The art of finishing plays a more
important role here than in the production of any other type of leather.
                                                                             211
Leather goods
Attention needs to be paid to the following in the production of automo-
tive leather.
Raw stock        High or very high quality cattlehide, preferably with no
                 grain defects, but exotic skins such as water buffalo or
                 ostrich can also be used.
Beamhouse        The skin has to be opened up well and evenly during
                 liming.
Tannage          • Chrome tannage
                 • The popularity of wet white is increasing due to less
                    shrinkage, which is important for dashboards and
                    door panels.
Retannage/       Attention needs to be paid to the following when
Dyeing           selecting products:
                 • High tensile strength and tear resistance
                 • High lightfastness and heat resistance
                 • High resistance to migration
                 • High perspiration resistance
                 • Fine, even break after milling
                 • Selective increase in fullness in the loose areas of
                    leather
                 • Level dyeing
                 • High hiding power for grain defects
                 • Low formaldehyde content and limited VOC/FOG
                    values
                 The most important shades are black, grey and beige.
Fatliquoring     Low-fogging products such as polymeric fatliquors with
                 • Neutral odour
                 • High resistance to high temperatures
                 • High tensile strength and tear resistance
                 • Low-VOC
                 Fatliquors should be selected which give soft but not
                 stretchy leather.
212
                                                               Leather goods
Finishing            • High hiding power for grain defects, without impairing
                       the permeability to water vapour and handle.
                     • Exact shades – metamerism (computerized colour
                       matching)
                     • Low-VOC finishes
                     • Low formaldehyde content
                     • High wear resistance
                     • High resistance to ageing
If wet white and chrome-tanned leather are compared, it can be seen
that the advantages and disadvantages of these two processes mirror
each other.
                     Advantages
Wet white            • Low shrinkage under hot, dry conditions
leather              • Easier to recycle and dispose off, free of heavy
                       metals
Chrome-tanned • Low fogging, low VOC content, high migration
leather                resistance
Upholstery leather
Unlike automotive upholstery leather, upholstery leather for furniture is
not subjected to extreme variations in climate. Nevertheless, it still needs
to fulfil similar standards of lightfastness as automotive leather, because it
tends to be exposed to strong sunlight at irregular intervals. Upholstery
leather also has to be hard-wearing and easy to maintain, and it is requi-
red to have a warm, soft handle.
Corrected-grain leather such as nubuck and suede can be used for
upholstery as well as smooth, full-grain leather.
                                                                          213
Leather goods
Attention needs to be paid to the following in the production of uphol-
stery leather.
Raw stock        Cattlehide or water buffalo of high or very high quality,
                 preferably with no grain defects.
Beamhouse        • The hide has to be opened up well during liming.
Tannages         • Chrome tannage
                 • Vegetable tannage
                 • Wet white tannage
Retannage/       Attention needs to be paid to the following when
Dyeing           selecting products:
                 • High lightfastness and heat resistance
                 • High tensile strength and tear resistance
                 • High perspiration resistance
                 • Selective increase in fullness in the loose areas of hide
                 • Even break after milling
                 • Level shades
                 • High hiding power for grain defects
                 Leather can be dyed to all colours, from classical sha-
                 des to very intense, brilliant shades.
Fatliquoring     •  Neutral odour
                 •  High tensile strength and tear resistance
                 •  High lightfastness and heat resistance
                 •  Specific types of handle are required
                 •  Uniform softness
Finishing        • High hiding power for grain defects, without impairing
                    handle, visual appearance and permeability to water
                    vapour.
                 • Resistant to cleaning
                 • Hard wearing
214
                                                             Leather goods
Garment leather
A wide selection of raw stock with large differences in the structure of
the skin and hide, fat content, etc., are used for garment leather. This
diversity implies that processes have to be adapted to the particular type
of raw hide in order to gain the best results. The methods employed in
the processing of garment leather are much more varied than those used
in the manufacture of other types of leather. Goatskin and pigskin are
mainly used for suede garment because of the structure of the skin, but
most sheepskin is full-grain.
Garment leather has to be soft and lightweight, with a pleasant handle
and reasonably weatherproof.
The following principles need to be observed in the production of gar-
ment leather.
Raw stock          Cattlehide, calfskin, sheepskin, pigskin, goatskin and
                   skins of various game animals such as deerskin.
Beamhouse          • The skin has to be opened up well during liming.
                   • Greasy skins need to be degreased well.
Tannage            Chrome tanning is more appropriate than other tanning
                   methods due to the required softness of the leather.
                   For that reason combinations with chrome and glutaral-
                   dehyde can also be found quite often.
Retannage          Attention needs to be paid to the following factors when
                   selecting syntans and polymers:
                   • High lightfastness
                   • Neutral odour
Dyeing             Leather can be dyed to all colours, from classical sha-
                   des to very intense, brilliant shades.
                   • High lightfastness
                   • High migration resistance and perspiration resistance
                                                                         215
Leather goods
Fatliquoring /    • Neutral odour
water repellents • Extremely soft leather
                  • High bulk
                  • Pleasant handle
                  • High water resistance and perspiration resistance
                  • Water-resistant treatment may be applied
Finishing         • Leathers range from being left unfinished to being
                     given a fairly thick coat of finish.
                  • Stretchy leather
                  • Pleasant handle and optical appearance
A selection of specifications for different types of leather can be found in
the chapter entitled “Test methods”.
216
                                                                           Fur
Fur
The fur industry is closely related to the leather industry. The main diffe-
rence is that the fur dresser or dyer must see to it that the hair remains
firmly anchored in the leather, and all his processing operations are car-
ried out in such a manner that the hair is not damaged in any way.
The main processes in the production of fur are divided in:
• Fur dressing      covers all operations necessary to convert the putre-
                    factive raw skin into a durable material, from soaking
                    up to tanning and fatliquoring.
• Fur dyeing        includes all operations that are modifying or improving
                    the appearance of the hair and leather.
• Nappalan          = flesh side finish. Finishing operations to improve look
                    and serviceability of the flesh side.
For the production of fur, the skins of more than 100 different types of
animals are used. According to the economical significance it is custo-
mary in the fur trade to divide furs into two groups:
• Furs derived from lamb, sheep and goat.
• All other furs.
Fur skin, general
Morphologically, there is no difference between skins and furs of animals
that are processed to leather and those that are used for fur skins. A
characteristic feature of many types of fur skins is, however, the great
extension and thickness of the hair follicles. The hair of the many different
types of fur skins varies widely in its form and structure, and it is specific
to the species.
There are three different types of hair:
• Guard-hair        long, coarse, smooth, straight, relatively few in number
• Top-hair          somewhat shorter than the guard-hair; straight, thicke-
                    ned below the hair tip
• Under-hair,       fine, usually crimped; far more numerous than the
   under-wool       other types of hair; lamb and sheepskins have this
   or fur-hair      type of hair only.
                                                                          217
Fur
Hair consists of the protein keratin. Like the protein of the skin, collagen,
it is based on amino acids. In contrast to collagen, however, keratin
contains no hydroxyproline, but sulfur-containing amino acids, which
cross-link the polypeptide chains of the keratin and impart stability.
Furthermore the proportion of acid amino acids contained is far larger in
keratin than in collagen. For this reason, the isoelectric point (I.P.), which
is important for dyeing, lies at different pH values for the two fibre pro-
teins (untreated collagen I.P. approx. 7, keratin I.P. approx. 5.5). Apart
from this the I.P. of collagen is shifted by a tannage, while the I.P. of kera-
tin remains practically unchanged, except when a treatment with aldehy-
des is carried out. These differences in the chemical composition and
morphology of hair and skin are the reason for the varying behaviour of
the two proteins and make the dyeing of fur skins an art that requires
much skill and experience.
Fur dressing
It is customary to process fur skins in paddles in long aqueous floats.
Especially for lamb and sheepskins short-liquor systems in drums were
developed for economical and ecological reasons.
In all wet processing operations the term "liquor ratio" means the rela-
tionship between the volume of the liquor and the mass of fur. The
amount of chemicals used is usually indicated in grams or millilitres of
substance per litre of liquor (g/l or ml/l), or in some cases in percentage
of the fur weight.
BASF products for fur dressing
1. Soaking
Bascal S            Mixture of aliphatic dicarboxylic acids; for acidic post-
                    soaking. It notably facilitates de-fleshing, also on very
                    dry raw merchandise.
Cortymol BAC        Bactericide based on an aqueous solution of N-dime-
                    thyl-dithio-carbamate, in order to avoid damage caused
                    by bacteria.
Eusapon S           Ethoxylated synthetic alcohol, nonionic. Good wetting
                    properties, dissolves impurities and emulsifies greases.
218
                                                                    Fur
Eusapon W     Mixture of organic products, notably accelerates soa-
              king, aids the penetration of water and loosens the
              fibre structure.
2. Washing
Eusapon LPK-E Alkylsulfates and alkyl-ether-sulfates. Product generally
              applicable for washing all types of raw or finished skins
              for leather, with or without added soda.
Eusapon P     Sulfated fatty alcohols, for washing wool, especially for
              dirty raw hides with fat; good biodegradability.
3. Bleaching
Blankit IN,   Special stabilised whiteners based on sodium
Blankit AN    dithionite.
              Blankit AN contains an optical brightening agent and is
              used for lightening natural white wool, improving the
              white effect, as well as for removing dyes.
4. Pickle
Concentrated  Provides especially soft and stretchy hides together
formic acid   with Bascal S.
Bascal S      Pickling acid with buffering and masking effect, hydro-
              reactant. Also especially adequate for thin hides or
              those with a sensitive grain. In conjunction with other
              organic acids, mainly formic acid, it provides particu-
              larly soft and extendable hides.
5. Bating
              Preparation based on bacterial enzymes, used for loo-
Basozym 1000
              sening the skin’s structure.
                                                                   219
Fur
Basozym CS 10 Enzymatic preparation based on organic enzymes,
                used in acidic medium in order to loosen the skin’s
                structure. Improves extensibility and softness, while
                compensating the differences between the different
                previous treatments.
6. Tanning and retanning
Basyntan D      Synthetic replacement tanning agent based on a
liquid          condensation product of aromatic sulfonic acids meant
                to increase plenitude while conserving the hide’s softn-
                ess. It is characterized by its excellent dyeability.
Basyntan DLE    White tanning agent and retanning agent based on a
                condensation product of aromatic sulfonic acids. Very
                good plenitude effect, good softness and light fastn-
                ess, excellent dyeability.
Basyntan E      Chrome/aluminium syntan used as a retanning agent,
                excellent buffing and dyeing properties.
Basyntan FC     Acid tanning auxiliary. Reduces the risk of dying the
                suede when the wool is dyed. Used in mordanting with
                dichromate for black dying with Ursol dyes and a vio-
                let-blue colour is obtained on the leather side.
                Alkaline chrome sulfate, approx. 25 % Cr2O3,
Chromitan B
                basicity 33 – 35 %.
Chromitan FM    Chrome sulfate with light masking effect.
                Approx. 24 % Cr2O3, basicity 40 %.
Implenal AP,    Complexing agents based on organic dicarboxylic
Implenal DC     acids. Improve plenitude, especially for lamb- and
liquid          sheep skins.
Lutan BN        Very basic aluminium complex salt with a high fixing
                power. Provides more plenitude and better buffing pro-
                perties, making it especially apt for suede. Approxima-
                tely 16 % Al2O3, basicity approximately 50 %.
Lutan CRN       Aluminium and chrome complex; approximately 14.5 %
                Al2O3, approximately 3.5 % Cr2O3, basicity approxima-
                tely 20 %. For tanning furskin with a light coloured flesh
                side, does not make the wool green.
220
                                                                         Fur
Lutan FN         Basic salt from an aluminium complex, approximately
                 17 % Al2O3, basicity approximately 20 %. For white
                 finishing of all types of furskin; provides good softness
                 and extensibility.
Neutrigan        Neutral reacting buffering mixture of organic and inor-
                 ganic complexing agents for soft de-acidification of
                 furskins that have been tanned with mineral tanning
                 agents.
Relugan GT 50/ 50 or 24 % glutaraldehyde solution. Used alone or in
Relugan GT 24 combination tannages of very soft furskins. Provide
                 tanning that stands up well to washing (for instance,
                 for lambskin used in hospitals); they dye wool and
                 leather slightly yellow.
Relugan GX       Aliphatic aldehyde in an aqueous solution, with very
                 little odour. Adequate for furskins with white wool.
Relugan RF       Polymeric anionic tanning agent. Not acid sensitive.
                 Combinable with chrome tanning in order to improve
                 plenitude. Excellent fastness with respect to light and
                 heat.
Tamol NA         Synthetic neutralization agent with excellent buffering
                 effect, for dyeing scarcely lightened furskin suede with
                 uniform shine using Luganil/Lurazol dyes.
7. Fatliquoring/water repellent treatment
Lipoderm         Anionic fatliquoring agent based on ester sulfite.
Liquor A1        Very good stability with respect to chrome and
                 electrolytes. Provides very soft and flexible furskins.
                 Anionic fatliquor based on lecithin for controlling feel
Lipoderm
Liquor LA        properties.
Lipoderm         Anionic sulfite fatliquoring agent with a natural base,
Liquor PN        does not yellow and stands up well to light. Good resi-
                 stance to salts, acids, and mineral tanning agents. For
                 all types of furskins and finishes.
Lipoderm         Combination of synthetic fatliquoring agents with
Liquor PSE       special emulsifiers. Anionic, good resistance to electro-
                 lytes, elevated fixing capacity, low extractability with
                 organic solvents.
                                                                         221
Fur
Lipoderm          Natural sulfite oil with a lanolin base. Improves feel
Liquor WF         and increases shine in furskin suede, together with
                  Lipoderm Liquor PSE.
Lipamin           Cationic fatliquors with synthetic or natural base and
Liquor SO,        good resistance to the electrolytes in the tanning bath.
Lipamin           Adequate for regreasing dyed leather.
Liquor NO
Immergan A        Oil tanning agent with an aliphatic sulfo-chloride base,
                  which provides good softness and resistance to alka-
                  lis, as well as excellent fastness with respect to light.
                  Improves grease distribution and fixing.
Densodrin EN      Water repellent that stands up well to light, with fat
                  content.
Densodrin OF      Aqueous emulsion of special polysiloxanes. Used as a
                  top greasing agent for furskin suede; notably improves
                  shine and feel.
Densodrin SI      Aqueous emulsion of special polysiloxanes. When
                  applied by itself it provides extremely light and soft fur-
                  skins. Improves shine and feel.
Fur dyeing
Many types of fur skins, particularly the more valuable furs, are further
processed in the undyed state. Yet the proportion of fur skins that are
dyed has increased markedly in recent years due to the increasing
demand for sheep skin articles for decorations, automotive seat covers
and clothing purposes. Cheaper kinds of fur, such as lamb, sheep, kid
and rabbit can be made to look like valuable furs, e. g. seal, beaver or
chinchilla by means of a dyeing process and mechanical treatment.
These cheaper furs are also printed to produce imitations of leopard,
ocelot and lynx. Special effects can be achieved by just dyeing the tips
of the hair.
222
                                                                           Fur
BASF products for fur dyeing
1. Ursol Dyes
Oxidation colours based on oxyamines and diamines, used after mor-
danting for dyeing all types of furskins. Good or very good lightfastness
of full shades, less pale shades.
Ursol EG            Developing dye with a weak dyeing power, improves
                    fastness with respect to dyeing.
Ursol ER            Developer for blue and red wine shades.
Ursol D             Important starting dye for grey-brown and black tones
                    of all shades.
Ursol NZ            For covered grey-brown tones.
Ursol P Base        Lively grey-brown colouring with reddish shade.
Ursol 3GA           Dye for shading in large quantities with a light yellowish
                    shade.
Ursol Grey BC       For grey tones, together with Ursol NZ also for grey-
                    brown shades, as well as together with Ursol Fast
                    Black for black shades.
Ursol Fast Black For black dyeing with a bluish shade; lightfast and fast
                    to ironing.
2. Eukesolar Dyes
Metal complex dyes that provide shades on lambskins and sheepskins,
with excellent fastness with respect to light and ironing. A carrier is requi-
red for dark and medium tones.
Eukesolar Yellow GL
Eukesolar Orange RL
Eukesolar Red GL
Eukesolar Black RL
                                                                          223
Fur
3. Lurazol Fur E Dyes
Anionic dyes especially selected for dyeing fur skins because of the
following properties:
• good exhaustion at 60 – 65 °C
• good combinability at this temperature
• only light staining of the leather
• similar fastness properties.
Lurazol Fur Lemon E
Lurazol Fur Yellow E
Lurazol Fur Blue E
Lurazol Fur Red E
Lurazol Fur Orange E
Lurazol Fur Black E
By combining these dyes a wide variety of shades can be obtained.
4. Lurazol Fur D Dyes
Special selected dyestuff-dispersions for dyeing the wool of fur with the
following properties:
• can be removed from the hair tips with Decrolin or Rongalit C
   = snow top effect
• excellent dye uptake even at low temperature (45 °C)
• brilliant shades
• good mixing capability
Lurazol Fur Yellow D
Lurazol Fur Orange D
Lurazol Fur Blue D
Lurazol Fur Black D
Lurazol Fur Brown D
Lurazol Fur Green D
Lurazol Fur Red D
224
                                                                         Fur
5. Luganil/Lurazol Dyes
These dyestuffs are used for dyeing the leather side of hides used for fur-
skin suede. For a description of these dyes see chapter “drum dyeing”.
Generally all Luganil and Lurazol dyes can be used for this purpose. The
following is a list of dyes that do not colour the wool in the dyeing bath,
or do so only slightly.
Luganil Yellow G                            Lurazol Beige L
Luganil Orange GGC                          Lurazol Brown MGR
Luganil Orange NR                           Lurazol Brown P
Luganil Light Brown NG                      Lurazol Red BN
Luganil Brown GOL                           Lurazol Brilliant Blue SBN
Luganil Brown NGB                           Lurazol Green EG
Luganil Brown MFR                           Lurazol Black MST
Luganil Brown NGT
Luganil Olive Brown N
Luganil Brown RL
Luganil Brown NT
Luganil Brown NR
Luganil Red Brown NB
Luganil Red NG
Luganil Bordo B
Luganil Blue NGR
Luganil Blue N
Luganil Dark Blue NB
Luganil Dark Green N
Luganil Grey GC
Luganil Black CN
Luganil Black NT
                                                                         225
Fur
6. Dyeing auxiliaries
Amollan Lustre Special oil-mixture to improve the tone in dyeing and
VN                   equality as well as the brilliance of suede
Bastamol DRN         Cationic fixing agent for improving fastness with res-
                     pect to washing and perspiration.
Densotan A           Polymeric auxiliary with dispersing properties and
                     excellent lightfastness and heat resistance.
Eusapon A            Nonionic ethoxylation product with a weak residual
concentrate          cationic charge. Versatile surfactant with good levelling
                     properties, especially for dyeing with Lurazol Fur E
                     Dyes.
Lutensol ON 30 Nonionic ethoxlated fatty alcohol; carrier that greatly
                     intensifies the tone in dyeings with Eukesolar dyes.
                     The leather side is dyed with less intensity.
Lipoderm N           Mixture of surfactants with a greasing and colour
                     equalising effect, improves furskin suede through-
                     dyeing.
Siligen MSI          Primary emulsion of a polysiloxane for improving shine
                     during ironing.
Tamol GA             Anionic levelling agent that stands up well to light, for
                     dyeing furskin suede to medium to dark shades using
                     Luganil/Lurazol dyes.
Tamol M              Mixture of neutral salts from aromatic sulfonic acids.
                     Lightens the leather side in dyeings with Lurazol Fur E
                     dyes.
Tamol NNOL           Anionic levelling agent for light furskin suede dyeing of
                     lambskin and suckling lambskin using Luganil/
                     Lurazol dyes. Solid with respect to light.
Tamol R              Auxiliary for through-dyeing, with a slightly cationic
                     charge.
Nappalan – flesh side finishing
Flesh side finishing improves appearance, handle and serviceability of the
leather side of fur.
All finishing products of the BASF range may be used.
226
                                             Test methods, leather testing
Leather testing methods
Please take into consideration that testmethods and specifications are
under continuous revision. A list of addresses at the end of this chapter
provides information where the up to date versions of the official test
methods are available. Further more many leather manufacturers have
developed their own test methods and specifications.
IUC/IUP-methods
The official methods of the International Leather Chemists’ Societies for
chemical leather analysis are denoted by the letters IUC and that for the
physical testing of leather by the letters IUP. Most of them have been
adopted as official methods.
The letters DIN denote the official leather test methods of the German
Standard Committee. Most of them have been drawn up in conformance
with the IUC and IUP methods.
Methods of chemical leather analysis
IUC/1      General remarks and presentation of analytical results
           = factually corresponding with DIN 53300/part 2
IUC/2      Sampling (as in IUP/2)
           = factually corresponding with DIN 53302/part 2
IUC/3      Preparing the test material by disintegration
           = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 4044
IUC/4      Determination of substances extractable with dichloromethane
           = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 4048
IUC/5      Determination of the water content of leather
           = factually corresponding with DIN 53304
IUC/6      Determination of organic and inorganic substances in leather
           removable by washing (loss by washing)
           = factually corresponding with DIN 53307
IUC/7      Determination of ash and water-insoluble mineral substances
           = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 4047
                                                                        227
Test methods, leather testing
IUC/8     Determination of chromium content
          = factually corresponding with DIN 53309
IUC/9     Determination of water soluble magnesium salts in leather
          (epsom salt)
          = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 5399
IUC/10    Determination of nitrogen, ammonium and skin substance
          = factually corresponding with DIN 53308
IUC/11    Determination of pH and difference value of aqueous leather
          extract
          = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 4045
IUC/13    Determination of zirconium
          = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUC/15    Determination of phosphorus
          = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUC/16    Determination of aluminium
          = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUC/17    Determination of hydroxyproline
          = no corresponding DIN test method available
DIN standards not within the IUC range
DIN 53314         Determination of chromium (VI) compounds in leather
DIN 53315         Determination of formaldehyde in leather
The following methods are in the course of preparation and have not yet
been adopted as official methods:
a. Determination of iron in leather
b. Determination of free fatty acids in leather
d. Determination of extractable fat (chamois leather)
e. Determination of sulfur in leather
228
                                          Test methods, leather testing
f. Determination of glutaraldehyde in leather
g. Determination of pentachlorophenol (PCP) in leather
Methods of physical leather testing
IUP /1   General remarks
IUP/2    Sampling
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53302/part 1
IUP/3    Conditioning in standard atmosphere
         (65 ± 2 % RH and 20 ± 2 °C; DIN 50 % RH, 23 ± 2 °C)
         = factually corresponding with DIN 50014-2
IUP/4    Measurement of thickness
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53326
IUP/5    Measurement of density
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53327
IUP/6    Measurement of tensile strength, elongation at break and maxi-
         mum force
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53328
IUP/7    Measurement of absorption of water (Kubelka)
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53330
IUP/8    Measurement of tearing load
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53329
IUP/9    Measurement of distension and strength of grain by the ball
         burst test (Lastometer)
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53325
IUP/10   Dynamic waterproofness test (Penetrometer)
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53338/part 1
IUP/11   Dynamic waterproofness test for boot and shoe sole leather
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53338/part 2
IUP/12   Measurement of resistance to grain cracking
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53324
                                                                     229
Test methods, leather testing
IUP/13   Measurement of two-dimensional extension (Tensometer)
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53323
IUP/14   Measurement of the waterproofness of gloving leathers
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/15   Measurement of water vapour permeability
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53333
IUP/16   Measurement of shrinkage temperature
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53336
IUP/17   Measurement of resistance of air-dried insole leather to heat,
         particularly during direct vulcanization
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/18   Determination of the resistance of air-dried lining leather to
         heat, particularly during direct vulcanization
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/19   Determination of the resistance of dry upper leather to heat,
         particularly in direct vulcanization and in moulding on soles
         during shoe production
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/20   Determination of the flexing endurance of light leathers and
         their surface finishes (dry and wet) in flexometer
         = factually corresponding with DIN 53351
IUP/21   Measurement of set in lasting with the dome plasticity appara-
         tus (Plastometer)
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/22   The assessment of surface damage by use of the viewing box
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/23   Measurement of damage caused by scuff
         = no corresponding DIN test method available
IUP/24   Measurement of surface shrinkage by immersion in hot water
IUP/26   Measurement of abrasion resistance of sole leather
IUP/28   Measurement of resistance to bending of heavy leather
230
                                           Test methods, leather testing
IUP/29   Determination of cold crack resistance of finishes
         = factually corresponding with DIN EN ISO 13333
IUP/30   Determination of water vapour absorption and desorption in
         relation to dimensional changes in the leather
IUP/32   Measurement of surface area (provisional draft)
         = factually corresponding with ISO 11646
DIN standards not within the IUP range:
DIN 53331         Determination of stitch tear strength.
DIN 53332         Determination of water vapour absorption.
DIN 53340         Determination of flexing endurance of low flexibility
                  leathers.
DIN 53344         Determination of resistance for hydrolysis of finished
                  and unfinished leathers.
DIN 75200         Determination of fire resistance.
DIN 75201         Determination of fogging characteristics of trim
                  materials in motor vehicles.
                  Method A: determination with 60° reflectometer.
                  Method B: gravimetric determination.
DIN 75202         Determination of light fastness of trim materials in
                  motor vehicles using the Xenon arc light.
DIN EN 344-1      Protective shoes.
DIN EN 374-1      Protective gloves.
DIN EN ISO 105B-02 Colour fastness to artificial light.
IUF methods see chapter “Testing of leather dyes and leather
dyeings”
                                                                        231
Test methods, leather testing
ALCA analytical methods compared to ASTM methods (1991)
ALCA     = American Leather Chemists Association
ASTM     = American Society for Testing and Materials
ALCA No. Methods                                        ASTM No.
A1       Analysis of Vegetable Tanning Materials –      D 4899
         General
A 10     Preparations of Solution of Liquid Extracts    D 4901
A 11     Prep. of Solution of Solid,                    D 4905
         Pasty and Powdered Extracts
A 12     Cooling of Analytical Solutions                D 4905
A 13     Evaporation and Drying of Analytical Solutions D 4902
A 20     Total Solids and Water                         D 4903
A 50     Lignosulfonates (Sulfite Cellulose)            D 4900
B2       Preparation of Sample for Analysis             D 2813
B3       Moisture                                       D 3790
B4       Solvent Extract                                D 3495
B5       Nitrogen Content and Hide Substance (Kjeldahl) D 2868
B8       Water Soluble Material                         D 2876
B 11     Insoluble Ash                                  D 2875
B 15     Total Ash                                      D 2617
B 20     pH of Leather                                  D 2810
C1       Chromium in Chrome Tanning Liquors             D 3898
C5       Acidity of Chrome Tanning Liquors              D 3813
C 10     Basicity of Chrome Liquors                     D 3897
D1       Preparations of Samples for Chemical Tests     D 2813
D 10     Standard test method for determination of      D 6656
         chromic oxide in wet-blue
         (perchloric acid oxidation)
D 20     Sulfates (Total, Neutral and Combined Acid)    D 4655
D 21     Chlorides                                      D 4653
D 30     Sulfate Basicity                               D 4654
D 35     Acidity (pH value)                             D 2810
E1       Conditioning Leather for Physical Testing      D 1610
E2       Area                                           D 2346
E3       Thickness of Units                             D 1814
E4       Thickness of Specimens                         D 1813
E5       Width                                          D 1516
E 10     Tongue Tear Strength                           D 4704
E 11     Buckle Tear Strength                           D 4831
E 12     Stitch Tear Strength, Single Hole              D 4786
232
                                         Test methods, leather testing
ALCA No. Methods                                          ASTM No.
E 13     Stitch Tear Strength, Double Hole                D 4705
E 14     Bursting Strength, BAN                           D 2207
E 15     Tensile Strength                                 D 2209
E 16     Breaking Strength                                D 2208
E 17     Elongation                                       D 2211
E 30     Water Absorption (Static)                        D 1815
E 32     Permeability to Water Vapour                     D 5052
E 42     Resistance to Cracking at Low Temperature        D 1912
E 45     Compressibility of Leather                       D 2213
E 46     Crocking                                         D 5053
E 52     Corrosion Produced by Leather in Contact         D 1611
         with Metal
E 53     Colourfastness/Transfer of Color in the          D 2096
         Washing of Leather
E 54     Flex Testing of Finish on Upholstery Leather     D 2097
E 55     Dynamic Water Resistance of Shoe Upper           D 2098
         Leather by Dow Corning Leather Tester
E 56     Dynamic Water Resistance of Shoe Upper           D 2099
         Leather by the Maeser Water Penetration Tester
E 57     Resistance to Wetting of Garment Type Leather    D 1913
         (Spray Test)
E 58     Grain Crack and Extension of Leather by the      D 2210
         Mullen Test
E 59     Slit Tear Resistance of Leather                  D 2212
E 60     Thermal Conductivity of Leather with the         D 2214
         Cenco-Fitch-App.
E 61     Resistance of Chrome-Tanned White Shoe           D 2322
         Upper Leather to Artificial Perspiration
E 62     Apparent Density of Leather                      D 2346
E 63     Relative Stiffness of Leather by Means of        D 2214
         Torsional Wire Apparatus
E 64     Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale) Oils,     D 2941
         Greases and their Products
H 5      Sulfonated and Sulfated Oils – General           D 500
H 40     Moisture                                         D 500
H 41     Moisture & Volatile Matter                       D 500
H 42     Organically Comb. Sulfuric Anhydride             D 500
         Titration Test (sulfat.)
H 43     Comb. Sulfuric Anhydride Extraction Test         D 500
         (for sulfated Oils)
                                                                  233
Test methods, leather testing
ALCA No. Methods                                                  ASTM No.
H 44        Sulfuric Anhydride Ash-Gravimetric Test               D 500
            (true sulfonated)
H 46        Total Active Ingredients                              D 500
H 47        Unsaponifiable Non-Volatile Matter                    D 500
H 48        Inorganic Salts                                       D 500
H 49        Total Alkalinity and Total Ammonia                    D 500
H 50        Acidity as Free Fatty Acids or Acid Number in         D 500
            Absence of Ammonia or Triethanolamine Soaps
H 51        Acidity as Free Fatty Acids or Acid Number in         D 500
            Presence of Dark Coloured Oils but in Absence
            of Ammonia or Triethanolamine Soaps
H 52        Acidity as Free Fatty Acids or Acid Number in         D 500
            Presence of Ammonia or Triethanolamine Soaps
            Standard test method for pH of wet blue               D 6657
            Standard test method for volatile matter              D 6658
            (moisture) in wet blue by oven drying
            Sampling
J 1         Sampling Light Leather for Physical Tests             D 2813
J 2         Sampling Heavy Leather for Physical Tests             D 2813
J 15        Sampling of Vegetable Tanned Leather                  D 2813
J 25        Sampling of Mineral Tanned Leather                    D 2813
            Standard practice for sampling and preparation        D 6659
            of wet blue for physical and chemical tests
            Leather Finishes
K1          Total Solids and Ash in Leather Finish                D 4906
K5          Nitrocellulose in Finish on Leather                   D 4906
K 11        Tackiness of Finish on Leather                        D 4908
Preparation of samples for analysis
The leather specimen for the chemical analysis is passed through a cutter
mill, and the pulverized leather is called ”leather powder” or ground leat-
her.
Suitable for this purpose are all types of mills fitted with a 4 mm screen
and driven at a speed of 700 –1000 r.p.m.
234
                                              Test methods, leather testing
Sampling according to IUC/2 and IUP/2
1. Sampling location for skins, whole hides and sides
          1. Probennahme bei Fellen, ganzen Häuten und Hälften
                    1. Probennahme bei Fellen, ganzen Häuten und Hälften
                                   C
                          backbone
         AC = 2 AB
                                     G      J
                                                               EF
                                      E        F       D       2
                                                                  JK = EF
                                    H
                              A                            HK
                                               K
                                                             2
          AB
                                      HK
                                        2
                                 B
                                      50 mm
                                        AF=
                                        AD
                                          2
          2. Probenahmen bei Hälsen
2. Sampling location for shoulders bei Hälsen
                    2. Probenahmen
                          AB
                           2                        chemical
                                                    tests
                                                    physical
                                                    tests
                       50 mm
                                             T
                                                 AB
                                                  2
                        A          B
                   DC
                    2   D          C
                                                     20 mm
                     R             P          S
                            RS           RS
                             2            2
                                                                          235
Test methods, leather testing
3. Sampling location for bends bei Croupons (Kernstücken)
                3. Probehahme
                     50 mm
                     C
               BC
                 2
                          G    J
                                                     EF
                                                      2
                          E     F          L
                     A                                  JK = EF
                                K
                                                HK
               BC                                2
                 2
                          HK
                           2
                     B
                          AD
                           2
4. Sampling location for bellies (flanks)
            shoulder
                P
        R
                     S
                                                     S = ca. 10 cm
                                                S
                                 20 x 10 cm
                         belly                  S
      a                                    b
                       U
a. sampling location, if no physical tests are required
b. sampling location, if physical tests are required
236
                                             Test methods, leather testing
Calculation and evaluation of test results
Determination of water content (IUC/5, DIN 53304)
                       G1 – G2
Water content in % =            x 100
                         G1
G1 = weight of sample before drying
G2 = weight of sample after drying
Determination of substances extractable with dichloromethane
(IUC/4, DIN 53304)
E. g. fats and other soluble substances
                                    g extract x 100
Extractable substances in % =
                                  g weight of sample
Determination of substances removable by washing
(IUC/6, DIN 53307)
                                          g solids
a. Total loss by washing in % =                          x 100
                                    g weight of sample
                              g sulfated residue on ignition
b. Sulfate ash removable                                     x 100
                           =
    by washing in %                 g weight of sample
c. Organic substances removable by washing in % = difference between
    total loss by washing and sulfated ash removable by washing.
Determination of ash (IUC/7, DIN EN ISO 4047)
                     g total sulfated ash
a. Total ash in % =                         x 100
                      g weight of sample
b. water-insoluble ash in % (determined by calculation) = % total sulfated
    ash minus % sulfated ash removable by washing.
                                                                       237
Test methods, leather testing
Determination of chrome (IUC/8, DIN 53309)
a. Iodometric determination of chrome
   1 ml 0.1 N Na-thiosulfate solution        1.734 mg Cr
   1 ml 0.1 N Na-thiosulfate solution        2.534 mg Cr2O3
b. Titration with iron (II) sulfate solution
   1 ml 0.1 N iron (II) sulfate solution     1.734 mg Cr
                                             2.534 mg Cr2O3
   1 ml 0.1 N iron (II) sulfate solution
Determination of water-soluble magnesium salts
(IUC/9, DIN ISO 5399)
% MgSO4 x 7H2O = ml 0.01 m Komplexon (III) solution         x 0.2465
(Epsom salt)                     g weight of sample
Determination of total nitrogen content, content of ammonium
salts, calculation of skin substance (IUC/10, DIN 53308)
a. % total nitrogen
   1 ml 0.5 N H2 SO4         7 mg nitrogen
b. Ammonium nitrogen
   1 ml 0.5 N H2 SO4         1.4 mg nitrogen
   Ammonium sulfate content in mg (NH4)2SO4 = mg N x 4.71
Difference value
The difference value is the difference between the pH of a solution and
that of its 1 : 10 dilution.
Fixed tannin (vegetable)
% fixed tannin = 100 minus the sum of moisture, ash, fat, organic loss by
washing and skin substance.
238
                                              Test methods, leather testing
Degree of tannage (vegetable)
The degree of tannage indicates the number of parts of tannin fixed by
100 parts of skin substance.
                          % fixed tannin
Degree of tannage =                          x 100
                        % skin substance
Yield value (analytical)
The yield value indicates the amount of vegetable tanned leather contai-
ning 14 % of water obtained from 100 g skin substance.
                      10 000
Yield value =
                % skin substance
Apparent density
                                mass (weight) of leather in g
Apparent density in g/cm3 =
                                  volume of leather in cm3
                       d2 (in cm) x 3.14 x average thickness (in cm)
Volume of leather =
                                               4
Measurement of tensile strength, elongation at break, breaking
load (IUC/6, DIN 53328)
                                         breaking load N
Tensile strength in N/mm2 =
                                thickness in mm x width in mm
Breaking load N = highest load reached at break
Elongation at = mm length at break – mm initial length x 100
break in %                     mm initial length
Measurement of tearing load (split tear strength) (IUC/8, DIN 53329)
Split tear force in N = mean value of tearing load
Tearing load in N/mm = force applied to tear specimen
Stitch tear strength (according to DIN 53331) = force in N
                                                                       239
Test methods, leather testing
Water absorption after Kubelka (static) (IUC/7, DIN 53330)
                                   volume of water absorbed in ml
Water absorption in % by vol. =
                                      volume of sample in cm3
                                    weight of water absorbed in g
Water absorption in % by wt. =
                                     mass weight of sample in g
Static water absorption (BASF method) - simple test
A piece of leather (ca. 10 x 10 cm is completely immersed in water for a
defined period (1 or 2 hours).
                                         weight before storage
Static water absorption in % by wt. =
                                          weight after storage
Stripe test (BASF method)
A stripe of leather (ca. 10 x 1 cm) is hung into water for 2 hours up to a
defined mark. The distance the water has risen at the surface and at the
edge is determined in mm.
Water absorption, water penetration in penetrometer (Dynamic)
(Bally penetrometer test IUP/10, DIN 53328)
The most suitable flexing amplitude depends on the thickness of the
leather, viz. 5 %, 7.5 %, 10 % or 15 %.
Penetration time is recorded in minutes.
Water absorp- = weight of sample after flexing – weight before flexing
tion in %                     weight of sample before flexing
Water transmitted in g = gain in weight of absorbent cloth
240
                                           Test methods, leather testing
Measer test (ASTM D 2099)
Test specimens are flexed in a dilute solution of common salt . The num-
ber of flexes endured by the leather at the point at which the water pene-
trates are counted. The dynamic water absorption is often tested after
15000 to 20000 flexes or at the point of penetration.
Water vapour permeability (IUP/15, DIN 53333)
                                             7640 x m
Water vapour permeability in mg/cm2 · h =
                                               d2 x t
m = gain in weight in mg between two weighings
d = inner diameter in mm in bottle neck
t = time in minutes between two weighings
                                                                       241
Test methods, leather testing
Quality requirements for the main types of leather
(General data)
                         Shoe upper leather
                         Box      Box       Cor-     Glazed    Water   Water
                         calf     side      rected   kid       proof   proof
                                            grain              (comb.  (chrome
                                            side               tanned) tanned)
Sulfate ash %            max. 2 % above the content of tanning oxide
Chromium oxide content % > 2.5    > 2.5     > 2.5    > 2.5     > 1.2   > 2.5
Fatty substances %       3–8      5 – 16    5 – 16   4–8       <16     8 – 15
Loss by washing %        < 2.0    < 2.0     < 2.0    < 2.0     < 2.0   < 2.0
Degree of tannage        –        –         –        –         > 30    –
pH (1 : 20)              aqueous extract not below pH 3.5;
Tensile strength
   N/mm2                    20       20     > 20     > 20      > 25    > 25
Elongation at break %    > 40     > 40      > 40     > 40      > 40    > 40
Elongation in %
   at 2 N/mm2               14       14     < 14     < 14      < 16    < 14
Split tear force
   N/mm                  > 40     > 40      > 25     > 25      > 50    > 50
Stitch tear strength N   > 80     >100      > 80     > 80      >100    >120
Water penetration in
   min (penetrometer)       60    > 20      > 20     > 20      >180    >120
Water absorption
   after 60 min          < 20     < 30      < 30     < 30      < 20    < 25
Water absorption –
Kubelka after 2 h        < 60     < 60      < 60     < 60      < 30    < 30
   after 24 h            < 85     < 85      < 85     < 85      < 40    < 40
Grain distension
   (Lastometer), mm         7.0      7.0       7.0       7.0       7.0    7.0
242
                                                   Test methods, leather testing
                   Sole leather                Lining leather
Vege- Suede        Sole     Sole     Insole    Insole, sock Vege-     Combi- Chrome
table (cattle,     leather leather leather     lining (sheep),table   nation tanned
tanned calf, goat, modern old pit              combination tanned     tanned
leather sheep)     tannage tannage             tanned
max. 2 % above the content of tanning oxide
–       > 2.5      –        –        –         < 0.8          –       < 0.5 < 2.5
18 – 26 2– 6       < 3.5    < 2.0    < 4.0     < 4.0          4–8     5 – 11 5 – 11
< 6.0 –            <14.0    < 6.0    <10.0     <10.0          < 6.0   < 3.0 < 3.0
> 50    –          60 – 95 60 – 95 60 – 95 > 50               >50     >40    –
                   at pH values below 4.0 difference value not above 0.7
> 25    > 20       > 25     > 25     > 20      > 10           > 15       15     20
> 40    > 40       < 30     < 35     < 35      < 40           < 70    <100   <100
–       –          –        –        –         –              –       –      –
> 40    –          –        –        –         –              > 15    > 15   > 40
>100    > 80       >130     >130     >125      –              > 40    > 40   > 40
> 20    –          –        –        –         –              –       –      –
< 30    –          –        –        –         –              –       –      –
<> 50      > 50           > 75    > 75   > 75
<>100    >100   >100
   7.0 –           –        –        –         –              –       –      –
                                                                                  243
Test methods, leather testing
Quality requirements for the main types of leather
(General data)
                         Upholstery and light leather          Clothing leather
                         Upholst. Upholst. Upholst. Light      Clothing Glove
                         leather, leather, leather, leather,   leather, leather,
                         veget. comb. chrome veget.            chrome chrome
                         tanned tanned tanned tanned           tanned tanned
Sulfate ash %            max. 2 % above the content of tanning oxide
Chromium oxide content % –        > 0.8    > 2.5     –         > 2.5    > 2.5
Fatty substances %       5 –11    5 –11    5 –11     3–8       <16 –18 10 –18
Loss by washing %        < 7.0    < 7.0    –         < 6.0     < 2 – 3 < 2.0
Degree of tannage        >50      >30      –         >50       –        –
pH-Wert (1 : 20)                     aqueous extract not below pH 3.5;
Tensile strength
   N/mm2                 > 20     > 25     > 27.5 > 10         > 25     > 25
Elongation at break %    < 50     < 50     < 75      < 50      < 60     < 50
Elongation in %
   at 2 N/mm2            –        –        –         –         < 20     < 20
Split tear force N/mm    > 40     > 40     > 50      > 10      > 35     > 35
Stitch tear strength N   >100     >100     >110      –         >100     >100
Water penetration in
   min. (penetrometer)   –        –        –         –         > 40     –
Water absorption
   after 60 min.         –        –        –         –         < 25     –
Water absorption –
Kubelka after 2 h        –        –        –         –         –        –
   after 24 h            –        –        –         –         –        –
Grain distension
(Lastometer), mm         –        –        –         –         –        –
* for chamois leather pH 4.0 – 10.0; for raw skin and transparent leather
  pH 4.0 – 8.0
244
                                                   Test methods, leather testing
                     Technical leather
Glove Hat sweat Oil           Harness Harness      Football    ASA      Raw     Cha-
leather, band        tanned leather, leather,      leather,    leather, hide a. mois
water- leather,      leather veget. chrome         chrome      chrome   transp. leather
repell. veget. tann.          tanned tanned        tanned      tanned   leather
may. 2 % above the content of tanning oxide
> 2.5 –              –        –        > 2.5       > 2.5       > 4.0    –       –
<23      4–12        <35      <25      <25         4–10        5–13     –       <10
< 2.0 < 6.0          –        < 7.0    –           –           –        –       –
–        >50         –        >30      –           –           –        –       –
                     at pH values below 4.0, difference value not above 0.7*
> 20     > 12        > 35     > 20     > 27.5      > 30        > 15     > 60    > 10
> 50     –           < 90     < 50     < 75        < 70        < 70     < 35    < 50
> 20     –           –        –        –           –           >    8   –       –
> 35     > 15        –        > 40     > 50        > 40        > 30     –       > 15
>100     > 30        –        >100     >110        >120        > 75     –       > 35
>180     –           –        –        –           –           –        –       –
< 251) –             –        –        –           –           –        –       –
                                                                                >3002)
–        –           –        –        –           < 35        –        –
                                                                                >4003)
–        –           –        –        –           < 70        –        –
–        –           –        –        –           –           –        –       –
1) after 180 minutes;
2) after 2 minutes;
3) after 60 minutes
                                                                                   245
Test methods, leather testing
Provisional quality requirements for shoe upper leather
(laid down by the German leather industry and the General Association of
the German Shoe Industry)
Test/type of leather                        Quality requirements
                                            dry            wet
1. Flexing endurance (flexometer)                          According to
    (IUP/20, DIN 53351)                                    DIN 53351
    Use DIN 53340 for testing                              leather is
    low flexibility leather                                moistened
    Patent leather                           20 000        10 000
    Other types of leather                   50 000        10 000
2. Adhesion of finish
    (IUF 470; N/cm width)
    Cattle hide leather, full grain and 3.0                2.0
    slightly corrected
    Cattle hide leather, deeply buffed 5.0                 3.0
    Fashionable leather (with thin finish 2.0
    coats, e. g. box calf, glazed kid, lamb
    skin leather)
3. Rub fastness (VESLIC rub tester)         Rub cycles     Grey Scale
    (DIN 53339)
    Leather for street shoes
    Test fabric dry, leather dry            50             minimum rating 4
    Test fabric wet, leather dry            50
    Leather for shoes without lining
    Inside; test fabric dry                 50             minimum rating 4
    Inside; test fabric wet                 50
    Inside; test fabric wetted with         20
    alkaline perspiration solution
    Fashionable leather
    Test fabric dry, leather dry            50             minimum rating 4
    Test fabric wet, leather dry            20
    Test fabric wetted with aqueous         20
    solvent-free polish, leather dry
4. Fastness to hot plating                  minimum 80 °C
    (IUF/458, DIN 53342)                    no damage
5. Distention of grain                      Dome height
    (IUP/9, DIN 53325)                      minimum 7.0
246
                                        Test methods, leather testing
Test/type of leather                   Quality requirements
 6. Split tear force
    (IUP/8, DIN 53329, method B)
    Leather for lined shoes            minimum 18 N
    Leather for unlined shoes          minimum 25 N
 7. Substances extractable with
    dichloromethane (IUC/4, DIN EN ISO 4048)
    for one-component adhesive         up to 9 %
    for two-component adhesive         up to 14 %
    for special polyurethane adhesive  above 14 %
    for vulcanizing                    up to 8 %
    for PVC mould-on                   up to 15 %
 8. Water vapour permeability (IUP/15, DIN 53333)
    After 20 000 flexes in flexometer
    (DIN 53351) with finished leathers
                                       1.0 mg/(cm2 x h)
    Full grain leather
 9. Water spotting test                no spots
    (IUF/420, DIN EN ISO 15700)
Tests as required
10. Tensile strength                   minimum 150 N
    (IUP/6, DIN 53328)
11. Grain distention and elongation test for
    special leathers, e. g. clogs
    Lastometer test (IUP/9, DIN 53325) dome height minimum 9.0 mm
    Elongation test (IUP/9, DIN 53328) without grain cracking min. 35 %
12. Waterproofness test                Water penetr.     Water absorpt.
    (IUP/10, DIN 53338)
    Waterproof leather                 min. 120 min      max. 25 %
                                                         5 mg/cm2
13. Water vapour absorption            min.    8h
    (DIN EN 344)
14. Cold flexing endurance (DIN 53351)
    at –10 °C                          min 30 000 flexes
15. Lightfastness (IUF/401 – daylight) min. rating 3
    (DIN EN ISO 105 B-02)              min. rating 3
16. Migration fastness (DIN 53343)     max. rating 3
                                                                    247
Test methods, leather testing
Test/type of leather                   Quality requirements
17. pH value of aqueous extract        not below 3.5
      (IUC/11, DIN EN ISO 4045)
18. Mineral substances removable       not above 1.5
      by washing (IUC/6, DIN 53307)
Provisional quality requirements for shoe lining leather
(laid down by the German Leather Associations)
Test/type of leather                   Quality requirements
                                       aniline leather finished leather
1. Rub fastness test
    (IUF/450, DIN 53339) Rub cycles
    Leather dry                  100   > rating 3        > rating 3
    Leather dry                   50   > rating 3        > rating 4
    Leather wet                   20   > rating 3        > rating 4
    Leather dry wetted with
    perspiration solution (pH 9)  20   > rating 2 – 3    > rating 2 – 3
    Leather dry wetted with
    gasoline
    (boiling point 80 –110 °C)    20   no staining
2. Stripe test for water fastness
    Testing after 2 h and 8 h          no staining of diffusion zone
                                       = rating above 3
3. Water vapour permeabilityminimum 1.0 mg/cm2 h
4. Elongation at break (DIN 53328)
    (minimum leather thickness > 0.4 mm)
    Skivers, unlaminated               minimum           25 %
    Skivers, laminated                 minimum           30 %
    Other leathers                     minimum           30 %
5. Mineral substances removable by washing
    (DIN 53307)                        not over         1,5 %
6. Substances extractable with dichloromethane
    (DIN EN ISO 4048)
    Lining leather                     maximum            10 %
    Lamb woolskin lining               maximum             8%
248
                                            Test methods, leather testing
Test/type of leather                       Quality requirements
                                           aniline leather finished leather
7. pH value (DIN EN ISO 4045)              not below           3.5
8. Split tear strength (as required)       only lining leather for reinforcement
    (DIN 53329)                            minimum 15 N/mm
Provisional quality requirements for furniture leather
(laid down by German Leather Associations)
Test/type of leather                       Quality requirements
                                                                    perspiration
                                           dry           wet        solution
1. Rub fastness test
    (DIN 53339 = rub cycles)
    Rough leather                           50           20         20
    Grey Scale contrast                    maximum      rating 3
    Smooth leather                         500           80         50
    Grey Scale contrast                    maximum      rating 4
2. Light fastness
    (DIN EN ISO 105-B02)
    Rough leather                          minimum rating 3
    Smooth leather                         minimum rating 4
3. Flexing endurance
    (DIN 53351)                            20 000
4. Adhesion of finish coat
    (IUF 470)                              1.5 N/cm
5. Split tear force
    (DIN 53329)                            20 N/mm thickness
6. pH value, aqueous extract
    (DIN EN ISO 4045)                      minimum 3.5
Tests not required but to be carried out if necessary:
    migration fastness,
    scratch resistance,
    stability to UV light,
    stability to amines.
                                                                             249
Test methods, leather testing
For car upholstery leather, the individual companies of the automobile
industry have their own quality standards.
Provisional quality requirements for clothing leather
(laid down by the EC Leather Institutes, Specification Commission)
Test/type of leather                      Quality requirements
                                          suede leather,
                                          nubuck,            nappa leather,
                                          aniline nappa finished
1. Light fastness
    (DIN EN ISO 105-B02)
    IUF 402 – xenotest                    rating 3           rating 4
2. Rub fastness (IUF 450)                 Rub cycles
    Felt dry                              20                 50
    Felt wet                              10                 20
    Felt wetted with perspiration
    solution (pH 9)                       10                 20
3. Flexing endurance                      –                  > 50 000
    (DIN 53351)
4. Adhesion of finish
    (IUF 470)                             –                  > 2.0 N/10 mm
5. Split tear force
    (IUP/8, DIN 53329)                    15 N/mm            20 N/mm
Tests as required
                                          12 N/mm2           12 N/mm2
Tensile strength (IUP/6, DIN 53328)
Washability (based on IUF 423)            After washing, drying and light staking:
                                          no change in leather handle; change in
                                          leather shade > rating 3 on Grey Scale
                                          (4 is recommended). Change in area
                                          < ± 3% (BLMRA* < ± 5%).
Resistance to dry cleaning                After dry cleaning/After dry cleaning/
                                          refatliquoring: no    refatliquoring: no
                                          change in handle, peeling of finish;
                                          shade > rating 3 – 4, changes as speci-
                                          change in area        fied for suede
                                          < ± 3% (BLMRA         and nubuck.
                                          ± 5%).
250
                                        Test methods, leather testing
Test/type of leather                   Quality requirements
                                       suede leather,
                                       nubuck,             nappa leather,
                                       aniline nappa finished
Wettability (based on IUF 420)         10 minutes          15 minutes
pH value (IUC/11)                      minimum 3.5           minimum 3.5
                                       (EMPA > 3.3;
                                       diff. value < 0.70)
* BLMRA = British Leather Manufacturers Research Association
                                                                         251
Test methods, leather testing
Testing of leather dyes and leather dyeings
IUF methods
The methods of the International Fastness Union for Leather Dyes and
Dyed Leather are denoted by the letters
I.U.F. = International Union Fastness.
The following countries are at present members of the International
Fastness Union:
Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Great Britain,
Greece, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Netherlands, Spain and Switzerland.
Numbering system of guidelines and test methods
(IUF 105)
Group 1 =       includes Nos. 100 –199
                Scope, principle, assessment; preparation of substrates
                for producing dyeings.
Group 2 =       includes Nos. 200 – 299
                Testing the properties of dyes and finishing agents without
                the aid of leather.
Group 3 =       includes Nos. 300 – 399
                Testing the properties of dyes and finishing agents by
                application on leather.
Group 4 =       includes Nos. 400 – 499
                Testing the colour fastness of leather.
252
                                           Test methods, leather testing
IUF test methods
IUF 105 = Numbering system of guidelines and test methods
IUF 120 = Principles of test procedures (    DIN EN ISO 105-A01*)
IUF 131 = Grey Scale for assessing the change in colour
          ( DIN EN ISO 105-A02*, visual;         DIN EN ISO 105-A05*,
          instrumental)
IUF 132 = Grey Scale for the determination of the colouring of the
          accompanying material ( DIN EN ISO 105-A03*, visual;
             DIN EN ISO 105-A04*, instrumental)
IUF 151 = Process for the preparation of standard chrome grain
           leather (D)
IUF 201 = Solubility of leather dyes (D)
IUF 202 = Colour fastness of dye solutions to acids (D)
IUF 203 = Stability of dye solutions to acids (D)
IUF 204 = Stability of dye solutions to alkali (D)
IUF 205 = Stability of dye solutions to hard water (D)
IUF 401 = Colour fastness of leather to daylight
           (   DIN EN ISO 105-B01*)
IUF 402 = Colour fastness of leather to artificial light (xenon lamp)
           ( DIN EN ISO 105-B02*)
IUF 420 = Colour fastness of leather to water spotting
           ( DIN EN ISO 15700)
IUF 421 = Colour fastness of leather to water (      DIN EN ISO 11642)
                                                        DIN EN ISO 15703)
IUF 423 = Colour fastness of leather to washing (
IUF 426 = Colour fastness of leather to perspiration (      ISO 11641)
IUF 434 = Colour fastness of leather to dry cleaning
           ( DIN EN ISO 11643)
                                                                       253
Test methods, leather testing
IUF 435 = Colour fastness of leather to washing in the washing machine
             ( DIN EN ISO 15702)
IUF 441 = Colour fastness of leather in respect of staining crude crepe
             rubber (D)
IUF 442 = Colour fastness of leather in respect of staining plasticized
             polyvinyl chloride ( DIN EN ISO 15701)
IUF 450 = Colour fastness of leather to rubbing (   DIN EN ISO 11640)
IUF 454 = Fastness to buffing of dyed leather (D)
IUF 458 = Colour fastness of leather to hot ironing (D)
IUF 470 = Determination of adhesion of finish to leather (ISO 11644)
Tests not within the IUF range
• Solubility of leather dyes – BASF Method
• Fogging test (DIN 75201)
• Lightfastness at high temperature (DIN 75202, DIN EN ISO 105-B06),
  especially for automotive leather
* = equivalent textile standard
(D) = draft or VESLIC methods
254
                                              Test methods, leather testing
Testing of leather dyes
Determination of dye class
a. precipitation reaction
b. behaviour in dissolving
Determination of pure dye content
a. determination of ash
b. spectrophotometer
Testing of homogeneity
a. blowing test
b. capillary method
Determination of solubility (BASF Method)
The solubility is tested in distilled water at 20 °C and 60 °C. The amount
of dye is determined that stays dissolved after dissolving by boiling and
cooling down to the temperatures specified above. The results are recor-
ded in g/l.
Solubility ratings:
5 = more than               40 g/l
4 = up to and including     40 g/l
3 = up to and including     30 g/l
2 = up to and including     20 g/l
1 = up to and including     10 g/l
Intermediate ratings, e. g., 3 – 4, may be given.
(For the technique of low temperature dyeing (below 40 °C), the dyes to
be used should be tested especially for this purpose.)
                                                                        255
Test methods, leather testing
Testing of dye solutions
Strength of dye solution
Assessment without dyeing test on leather. This can be carried out with
the aid of:
a. colorimeter
b. filter paper.
Stability to acids (IUF 203)
The resistance of a dye solution to flocculation under the action of formic
acid and sulfuric acid.
Ratings:
5 = no flocculation with either one of the two acids
4 = no flocculation with formic acid; beginning flocculation with sulfuric
     acid
3 = no flocculation with formic acid; flocculation with sulfuric acid
2 = beginning flocculation with formic acid
1 = distinct flocculation with both acids
Fastness to acids (IUF 202)
The resistance of the shade of dye solutions to dilute acids. For testing,
the dye solutions are poured on filter paper.
The assessment is made with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Ratings: from 5 = no change in shade
           to 1 = strong change in shade
256
                                            Test methods, leather testing
Fastness to alkali
The resistance of the colour of dye solutions to dilute alkalis. For testing,
the dye solutions are poured on filter paper.
The assessment is made with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Ratings: from 5 = no change in colour
           to 1 = strong change in colour
Stability to hard water (IUF 205)
The behaviour of dyes in water of 20 and 40 German degrees of
hardness.
Water of the degree of hardness specified above is prepared by dissol-
ving the required amount of calcium chloride and magnesium sulfate in
distilled water.
The purpose of this test is mainly to find out whether a dye for brush or
spray staining has to be dissolved in condensation water.
Ratings:
5 = no flocculation with hard water
4 = no flocculation with water containing 200 mg CaO per litre, beginning
     flocculation with water containing 400 mg CaO per litre
3 = no flocculation with water containing 200 mg CaO per litre, distinct
     flocculation with water containing 400 mg CaO per litre
2 = beginning flocculation with water containing 200 mg CaO per litre
1 = distinct flocculation with water containing 200 mg CaO per litre
                                                                          257
Test methods, leather testing
Testing of leather dyeings
Fastness to formaldehyde (IUF 424)
Determination of the change in shade of dyed leather under the action of
formaldehyde fumes.
The assessment is made with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Ratings: from 5 = no change
          to 1 = strong change in shade.
Fastness to fatliquor
The bleeding in anionic fatliquor is assessed according to the behaviour
of chrome calf leather dyed with 1% of dye and subsequently fatliquored
with 2 % of Lipoderm Liquor PN and left in the wet state for two hours
under a load between two sheets of filter paper.
The staining of the filter paper is assessed with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Ratings: from 5 = no change
          to 1 = strong staining.
Penetration
The dye penetration is tested on freshly tanned chrome calf leather (neu-
tralized and subsequently dyed) and on crusted chrome suede leather.
Assessment (leather cross-section)
5 =  complete penetration
4 =  75 % penetration
3 =  50 % penetration
2 =  25 % penetration
1 =  superficial colouring
258
                                              Test methods, leather testing
Levelling power
Can be assessed only on several leathers or batches of leather. The
levelness of the dyeing over the entire leather surface and the colouring
or covering up of leather faults are assessed.
Fastness to water spotting (IUF 420)
Two drops of distilled water are dropped on the surface of the leather to
be tested. After one drop of water has evaporated at 20 °C, the change
in shade of the leather is determined with the aid of the Grey Scale. The
remainder of the water of the other drop of water is removed with filter
paper after 30 minutes, and any physical change is recorded.
Fastness to water (IUF 421, DIN EN ISO 11642)
Like the test for fastness to perspiration, but demineralized water is used
instead of the perspiration solution.
Fastness to washing (IUF 423, DIN EN ISO 15703)
This property is tested by washing leather with a solution of 5 g/l lauryl
sulfate in a neutral (alkali-free) bath and assessing the change in shade
and staining of accompanying textile fabric.
The leather specimens are attached to equal sized cuttings of accom-
panying fabric and washed in 100 ml of 0.5 % lauryl sulfate solution for 30
minutes at 30 °C in a "Wacker" drum.
The change in shade is assessed with the aid of the Grey Scale for
change in shade and the staining of the accompanying fabric is determi-
ned with the aid of the Grey Scale for bleeding.
Ratings: from 5 = no change in shade or staining
          to 1 = strong change in shade or staining.
                                                                         259
Test methods, leather testing
Fastness to perspiration (IUF 426)
Specified, undyed multifibre fabric (ISO 105-F 10 = cellulose acetate, cot-
ton, polyamide, polyester, acrylic and wool) or homogeneous fibre mate-
rial soaked in artificial perspiration solution and laid on the side of the lea-
ther cutting to be tested. The composite test specimen is placed under a
load of 4.5 kg (123 N/cm2 = 125 p/cm2) at 37 ± 2 °C for one hour in a
suitable apparatus (hydrotester or perspirometer) and is then dried freely
suspended under standard climatic conditions (20 °C and 65 % R.H.).
On finished leathers, the film is removed with abrasive paper (grit size
180) without damaging the grain surface to any extent.
Perspiration solution per litre:
5.0 g sodium chloride, NaCl;
5.0 g tris-(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, NH2C(CH2OH)3;
0.5 g urea, NH2CONH2;
0.5 g nitrilotriacetic acid, N(CH2COOH);
adjusted to pH 8.0 ± 0.1 with hydrochloric acid.
Report the numerical ratings for the colour change of each side of the
specimen and the numerical rating for the staining of each piece of the
specified accompanying fabric with the aid of the Grey Scale.
The ratings range from 5 = no staining or no colour change
                     to 1 = strong staining or strong colour change.
Fastness to solvents
Specimens of 1% dyeings (0.5 g) are placed for 24 hours in 20 ml of the
appropriate solvent and bleeding of the dye in the solvent is then asses-
sed.
Any solvent desired can be used.
Ratings:
5  = no bleeding in the solvent
4  = slight bleeding in the solvent
3  = appreciable bleeding in the solvent
2  = strong bleeding in the solvent
1  = very strong bleeding in the solvent
260
                                             Test methods, leather testing
Fastness to dry cleaning (IUF 434 E)
Accurately measured leather specimens are drummed in a “Wacker”
drum for 30 minutes with a solvent, e. g. perchloroethylene or R 113
(trifluorotrichloroethane), together with a specified accompanying multi-
fibre fabric (e. g., ISO 105-F 10) and TEFLON balls (specified size), with
or without addition of triolein and solvent soaps. The treated leather
specimens are placed between blotting paper under a load of 4.5 kg
for 1 minute and aired off. They are then examined for change in shade,
handle, colour, staining of the accompanying fabric and, if necessary, for
changes in wettability, light fastness and rub fastness (dry and wet).
Dry and wet rub fastness
Testing by hand
a. Dry: Rubbing with an untreated white cotton cloth tightly stretched
           over a cork stopper. Rub ten times back and forth with constant
           pressure.
b. Wet: Same procedure as in the dry test, except that the cotton cloth
           is moistened with distilled water and squeezed off to about
           100 % water uptake.
Test with VESLIC rub fastness tester (IUF 450)
A dry felt pad or a felt pad moistened with water in the prescribed way is
rubbed back and forth under a load of 1 kg on the leather that has been
stretched by 0 % or 10 %.
     Dry: 20, 50 and 150 rub strokes
           (if necessary up to 300 and 500 rub strokes)
     Wet: 10 and 50 rub strokes
Report the numerical ratings with the aid of the Grey Scale for the stai-
ning of the wool felt and for the change in colour of the leather.
                                                                         261
Test methods, leather testing
Fastness to diffusion into crude rubber crepe (IUF 441)
The behaviour of the dyeing with regard to migration of dye from the
leather into crude rubber crepe is tested. The test specimen is bonded
on the side to be tested to crude rubber crepe using white pigmented
crude rubber solution and is exposed under a load of 4.5 kg at 50 °C for
15 hours.
The assessment is made with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Fastness to diffusion into PVC (IUF 442, DIN EN ISO 15701)
The behaviour of the dyeing with regard to migration of dye from the
leather into plasticized polyvinyl chloride is tested.
The assessment is made with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Fastness to buffing of dyed leather (IUF 454)
The behaviour of the dyed leather is tested by buffing. The leather side to
be tested is rubbed back and forth 10 to 110 times on the VESLIC rub
fastness tester with a carborundum emery paper (grit size 320) under a
load of 500 g.
The assessment of change in colour between the lanes after 10 to 110
rub strokes is made with the aid of the Grey Scale. Before the assess-
ment of the change in colour, the buffed area is brushed in the direction
of the nap.
262
                                               Test methods, leather testing
Light fastness
a. Fastness to daylight (IUF 401)
b. Fastness to artificial light (DIN EN ISO 105 B-02)
Leather specimens of not less than 1 cm x 6 cm are exposed to daylight
or artificial light under prescribed conditions together with eight light
fastness standards which consist of pieces of wool cloth dyed with stan-
dard blue dyes of different degrees of fastness.
Standard                     Colour Index designation
1                            = C. I. Acid Blue 104
2                            = C. I. Acid Blue 109
3                            = C. I. Acid Blue 83
4                            = C. I. Acid Blue 121
5                            = C. I. Acid Blue 47
6                            = C. I. Acid Blue 23
7                            = C. I. Solubilized Vat Blue 5
8                            = C. I. Solubilized Vat Blue 8
The fastness is assessed by comparing the fading of the leather speci-
men with that of the standards. The result is expressed in a numerical
fastness rating.
1  = very low
2  = low
3  = moderate
4  = fairly good
5  = good
6  = very good
7  = excellent
8  = outstanding
Intermediate ratings can be given.
For leather testing, the ratings from 1 to 6 will suffice, because the test
results are influenced by the amounts and types of tanning agents, fat-
liquors and auxiliaries used and by the strength of the dyeing and the
dyeing method.
                                                                          263
Test methods, leather testing
Testing of leather finishes
Dry and wet adhesion (IUF 470, ISO 11644)
Measurement of the adhesion (anchorage) of a finish coat to the leather
surface.
a. Quick reference test method with adhesive tape.
b. Quantitative measurement in the tensile strength testing apparatus.
     Leather strips of specified length and width are bonded with a speci-
     fied adhesive to a firm supporting surface which has been cleaned
     with hexane or a mixture of alkane at a boiling range of 40 – 80 °C.
     The bonded specimens are then stripped off in the tensile strength
     tester at an angle of 90 degrees. At least 4 specimens are tested, two
     of each in the cross and longitudinal directions to the backbone line.
For the wet adhesion test, the bonded specimens are placed in a glass
filled with water. The glass with the specimens is evacuated three times
in a vacuum dissicator at 5 kPa maintaining the vacuum each time for 2
minutes. The time between the placing of the specimens into the water
and the measuring should be from 60 to 120 minutes.
Composition of adhesive:
A two-component polymer adhesive is used.
 20 g Solids Desmocoll 400 dissolved in 80 –100 g ethyl acetate
+ 5 g Hardener Desmodur L 75
The prepared adhesive mixture should be used up within 8 hours after
addition of the hardener.
264
                                            Test methods, leather testing
Dry and wet rub fastness (DIN 53339, IUF 450)
Assessment of the resistance of the finished leather surface to abrasion,
scuffing and staining.
a. Quick reference test by rubbing with a white cloth under the pressure
   of a finger.
b. Test with VESLIC rub fastness tester (IUF 450)
   Rubbing a dry felt pad or a felt pad moistened in a prescribed way
   under a pressure of 1 kg back and forth against the leather that has
   been stretched.
   Dry rub fastness: leather dry, felt dry.
   Wet rub fastness: leather dry, felt wetted.
Assess the degree of damage or change in the finish coat,
staining of the felt pad and change in colour of the test specimen.
Resistance to swelling (DIN 53339, IUF 450)
Assessment of the behaviour of a finish coat when the whole leather is
submitted to the action of water.
a. Quick reference test by immersing the leather specimen in water and
   rubbing subsequently with a dry cloth.
b. Test with VESLIC rub fastness tester
   The leather specimen is immersed in water for 1 hour, and a dry felt is
   then rubbed back and forth.
   Rating as in the dry and wet rub fastness tests.
                                                                       265
Test methods, leather testing
Flexing endurance (DIN 53351, IUP 20)
Measurement of the flexing endurance of leathers and their surface fin-
ishes through an angle of 22.5 degrees over a prolonged period.
The test is carried out with the Bally flexometer.
Assessment of damage:
a. Damage to the finish may be of the following kinds: greying, minor and
   major surface cracks or complete breakthrough, peeling or powder-
   ing, loss of adhesion of the finish to the leather or loss of adhesion of
   one finish layer to another.
b. Damage to the leather may be of the following kinds: cracking of grain
   layer, development of coarse grain folds (pipey grain), loss of an
   embossed grain pattern, breakdown of fibres to such an extent that a
   hole develops through the entire thickness of the leather.
This test can be carried out with both dry and wet leather specimens.
Elasticity
Behaviour of the finish when the leather is stretched and extended.
a. Quick reference mandrel or key test.
b. Test with Lastometer (IUP 9) or Tensometer (IUP 13).
   Assess the changes or the breaking of the finish coat before the grain
   cracks.
266
                                            Test methods, leather testing
Fastness to hot ironing
a. The leather specimen is placed over a slightly rounded edge and pla-
    ted once back and forth with a hot iron maintained at a constant tem-
    perature by thermostat. After each ironing, the test temperature is
    increased by 25 degrees Celsius. The change in shade, smearing and
    damage to the finish coat are assessed.
b. Test with VESLIC automatic hot ironing tester (VESLIC rub fastness
    tester with heatable finger).
    The finger has a size of 10 mm x 10 mm and is moved back and forth
    five times after which the temperature is increased by 20 °C. This is
    repeated until the finish coat shows damage, smearing or change in
    shade.
Resistance to hot air
The leather specimen is submitted to the action of a hot air stream at
150 °C for one minute.
The change in shade and other changes in the finish coat are assessed.
Fastness to hot steaming
The leather specimen is placed in a test chamber at 65 °C and 100 %
relative humidity.
The migration of dye, bleeding and swelling are assessed.
Light fastness
The light fastness is tested with the xeno tester (cf. page 263).
                                                                        267
Test methods, leather testing
Resistance to solvents
Acetone is normally used for the test.
Test with VESLIC rub fastness tester
From the rub fastness tester, the base plate in the center of the carriage
is removed and replaced by a felt over which the leather specimen is
clamped with a distension of 5 %. One ml solvent is dropped at the side
on the felt, and after one minute, the leather is distended once again by
5 % and it is then rubbed five times with a dry felt on the finished side
under a load of 1 kg.
The finish coat is examined for swelling, softening or smearing.
Resistance to detergents and cleansing agents
Similar to the wet rub fastness test, the finished leather surface is tested
with various test solutions.
Resistance to shoe polishes
The leather specimen is tested by rubbing with three basic types of shoe
polishes.
Polishability
A drop of water (about 0.15 ml) is applied to the finished leather surface
and allowed to evaporate overnight at room temperature. The leather
specimen is rubbed with a dry cloth, if necessary after treatment with
shoe polish, to determine whether any stains formed can be removed by
polishing.
268
                                            Test methods, leather testing
Resistance to abrasion
Measurement of the resistance of the leather surface to abrasion.
For this purpose, the VESLIC rub fastness tester is used on which the felt
for the rub fastness test is replaced by a rubber-based abradant surface
15 mm long and 3 mm wide that is rubbed along separate paths against
the leather for a fixed number of times under a specified load.
Under a load of 2 kg: 10 to 50 rubbing strokes
Under a load of 5 kg: 5 rubbing strokes
The leather can be tested wet or dry.
The test specimen is examined for changes in the leather surface and for
change in shade with the aid of the Grey Scale.
Resistance to ageing
The leather samples are conditioned in the drying oven for
a. 7 days at 50 °C or
b. 3 days at 80 °C
before they are examined for embrittlement or yellowing and for changes
in elasticity and flexing endurance.
                                                                      269
Test methods, leather testing
Fogging test (DIN 75201)
Fogging refers to the condensation of evaporated, volatile components of
the interior automobile trim materials on the glass plates, especially on
the wind shield.
The test consisting of two different methods is carried out with the fog-
ging tester of Haake-Meßtechnik, Karlsruhe, Germany.
a. Reflectometric test
   A car upholstery leather specimen is placed on the bottom of a glass
   beaker which is immersed to a certain depth into a heated bath
   (100 °C) regulated by thermostat. On top of the glass beaker, which is
   closed by means of a cleaned glass plate with seal, cooling plates
   maintaining a temperature of 21 °C are placed. The cooling causes
   the substances evaporating from the leather to condensate on the
   glass plate.
   The quantity of fogging condensation on the glass plate is recorded
   by measuring the 60° angle of reflection of the same glass plate (blind
   value) without condensation.
   Fogging value FR = quotient in % of the 60° reflectometer value of a
                        glass plate with fogging condensation and the
                        same glass plate without condensation.
b. Gravimetric test
   Instead of the glass plate used in the reflectometer test, a light alumi-
   nium sheet is used here and the specimens are treated for 16 hours
   instead of 3 hours at 100 °C.
   The condensate is weighed and reported in mg.
Both test methods prescribe that the specimens be dried for 7 days in a
dissiccator using phosphorous pentoxide.
270
                                                     Test methods, leather testing
Important dimensions for analytics
1 percent                  0.01 gram per gram               0.01 g/g
                                                            (10-2)
(one part in a hundred)    (=one hundredth of a gram/g)
1 permill                  1 milligram per gram             0.001 g/g
                           (= one thousandth of a gram/g) (10-3)
(one part in a thousand)
1 ppm                      1 microgram per gram             0.000 001 g/g
                                                            (10-6)
(one part per million)     (= one millionth of a gram/g)
1 ppb                      1 nanogram per gram              0.000 000 001 g/g
                                                            (10-9)
(one part per billion)     (= one billionth of a gram/g)
1 ppt                      1 picogram per gram              0.000 000 000 001 g/g
                                                            (10-12)
(one part per trillion)    (= one trillionth of a gram/g)
1 ppq                      1 femtogram per gram             0.000 000 000 000 001 g/g
                                                            (10-15)
(one part per quadrillion) (= one quadrillionth
                           of a gram/g)
                                                                                  271
Suppliers of standard test methods
1. DIN standards       Beuth Verlag GmbH
   (also DIN EN,       Burggrafenstraße 6
   DIN EN ISO, ISO)    10787 Berlin or
                       www.beuth.de
2. IUC, IUP, IUF       German publications:
   methods             Eduard Roether Verlag
                       Berliner Allee 56
                       64295 Darmstadt
                       English publications:
                       Society of Leather Trades’ Chemists
                       52, Crouch Hall Lane
                       Redbourn, Herts., UK
3. VESLIC methods      Association of Swiss Leather Chemists and
                       Technologists
                       www.veslic.ch
4. BS standards        British Standard Institution
   (British)           Society of Leather Trades’ Chemists
                       52, Crouch Hall Lane
                       Redbourn, Herts., UK
5. ISO standards       International Organization
                       for Standardization
                       www.iso.org
                       Case Postale 56
                       CH 1211 Geneva 20
6. ASTM methods        American Society for
   (U.S.)              Testing and Materials,
                       www.astm.org
                       Philadelphia, Pa 19428-2959
272
                                                       Indicators, pH value
pH Value, indicators, charge relations
pH Value
The pH value is the negative logarithm to the base 10 of the hydrogen ion
concentration.
Derivation:
In pure water, the concentration of hydrogen ions [H3O+] is equal to the
concentration of hydroxyl ions [OH– ], viz
                          [H3O+] = [OH– ] = 10-7 mol/l
At this equilibrium, the water has a neutral reaction. In practice, the
minus sign is dropped, 10-7 = pH 7.
According to the above equation, if the hydrogen ion concentration in an
aqueous system is increased, the hydroxyl ion concentration becomes
less, and the system has an acid reaction.
If the hydroxyl ion concentration is increased, the hydrogen ion concen-
tration decreases accordingly, and the solution has an alkaline reaction.
    pH = 1                           pH = 7                       pH = 14
    acid                             neutral                      alkaline
Determination of pH value
1. Potentiometric (electrometric)
    with a hydrogen electrode or glass electrode (measuring range
    pH 0 – pH 14)
2. Colorimetric
    with indicators or indicator papers.
                                                                           273
Indicators, pH value
Common indicators
Indicator            Effective Colour change       Concentration
                     pH range                      of solution
Thymol Blue          1.2 – 2.8 red – yellow        0.1% in 20 %
                                                   alcohol
Dimethyl Yellow      2.9 – 4.0 red – yellow        0.1% in 90 %
                                                   alcohol
Bromophenol Blue     3.0 – 4.6 yellow – blue       0.1% in 20 %
                                                   alcohol
Congo Red            3.0 – 5.0 blue – red          1% in water
Methyl Orange        3.2 – 4.4 red – yellow        0.1% in water
Bromocresol Green    3.8 – 5.4 yellow – blue       0.1% in 50 %
                                                   alcohol
Methyl Red           4.8 – 6.0 red – yellow        0.2 % in 90 %
                                                   alcohol
Litmus               5.0 – 8.0 red – blue          0.3 % in 90 %
                                                   alcohol
Bromocresol Purple   5.2 – 6.8 yellow – purple red 0.04 % in 90 %
                                                   alcohol
Bromothymol Blue     6.0 – 7.6 yellow – blue       0.1% in 20 %
                                                   alcohol
274
                                              Indicators, pH value
Common indicators
Indicator         Effective  Colour change        Concentration
                  pH range                        of solution
Neutral Red       6.8 – 8.0  red –                0.1 in 70 %
                             yellowish orange     alcohol
Phenol Red        6.6 – 8.0  yellow – red         0.02 % in 90 %
                                                  alcohol
o-Cresol Red      7.0 – 8.8  yellow – purple red 0.1% in 20 %
                                                  alcohol
Tropaeoline 000   7.6 – 8.9  yellowish green –    1% in water
                             pink
Phenolphthalein   8.2 –10.0  colourless – pink    1.0 % in 50 %
                                                  alcohol
Thymol Blue       8.0 – 9.6  yellow – blue        0.1% in 20 %
                                                  alcohol
Thymolphthalein   9.4 –10.6  colourless – blue    0.1% in 90 %
                                                  alcohol
Alizarin Yellow R 10.1 –12.0 yellow – red         0.1% in 50 %
                                                  alcohol
Tropaeoline O     11.3 –13.0 yellow – orange red 0.1% in water
                                                                275
Indicators, pH value
pH colour range of bromocresol green
Mainly used in pickling, chrome tanning and neutralization.
Colour: Yellow         =  pH 3.5 and lower
         Yellow-green =   pH 4.0
         Green         =  pH 4.5
         Blue-green =     pH 5.0
         Blue          =  pH 5.5 and higher
Determining the charge on leather surfaces with charge indicator
Composition:
0,05 g Luganil Orange GGC, dissolved in         10 ml water
0,0025 g Crystal Violet, dissolved in           90 ml ethanol
                                            = 100 ml indicator
Procedure:
Test by dropping indicator solution on to the leather surface.
Cationic charge = yellow inner circle surrounded by a blue ring
Anionic charge = blue inner circle surrounded by a yellow ring
276
                                                      Indicators, pH value
Charge relations on pelts and leathers
                                                             COO-
            +
              H 3N             pelt collagen
       (Amino group)                                   (Carboxyl group)
                          isoelectric point (I.P.) at
                                   pH ~ 5
By lowering the pH                        By increasing the pH
Dissociation of                           Dissociation of
amino groups                              carboxyl groups
Increasing positive charge and            Increasing negative charge and
increasing reaction with                  increasing reaction with
ANIONS                                    CATIONS
e. g.                                     e. g.
vegetable and synthetic                   common basic chromium(III)
tannins, masked chromium                  salts,
salts, anionic dyes,                      aluminium tanning agents,
sulfated and sulfonated                   cationic resin tanning agents,
oils or fatliquoring agents,              basic dyes,
anionic wetting and                       cationic fatliquoring agents
dyeing auxiliaries.                       and auxiliaries.
                               Change of I.P.
                                by tannage
Shifting towards the acid                 Shifting towards the alkaline
side (down to pH 3 and                    side (up to pH 7 and more) by
lower) by aldehyde tannage,               the common cationic one-bath
sulfochloride tannage,                    chrome tannage, cationic resin
vegetable and synthetic tannage,          tannage.
tannage with masked chrome
tanning agents.
                                                                        277
Weight and area of leather
Relations between weight, area and yield in
leather production
Weight designations used in leather production
Green weight            = flayed hide or skin (cooled, bled thoroughly;
                           minus horns, hoofs, ears, legs, tail bones,
                           udder, adhering flesh).
Salted weight           = weight after salting with solid salt or after
                           treatment in brine.
                           Water content of hides and skins 30 – 45 %.
Heavy hides             =  7 –15 % loss in weight of green weight
Calf skins              =  6 –12 % loss in weight of green weight
Sheep, goat skins       =  4 –10 % loss in weight of green weight
Pig skins               =  2 –14 % loss in weight of green weight
General method of calculations (cattle hides, calf skins):
Green weight            = salted weight +10 %
Salted weight           = green weight – 19 %
Dry salted weight       = weight after predrying and subsequent salting
                           or vice versa.
                           Water content of hides and skins 15 – 25 %.
Cattle hides
Calf skins               = 40 – 45 % loss in weight of green weight.
Sheep, goat skins
Dry weight              = weight after curing by drying.
                           Water content of hides and skins 12 – 20 %.
Hides and skins         = 55 – 65 % loss in weight of green weight.
278
                                               Weight and area of leather
Soaked weight              = weight of hide or skin after proper wetting
                             back and draining.
Of salted hides and skins, minimum 100 % (up to 110 % possible) of
green weight.
Of dried hides and skins 90 –100 % of green weight.
Pelt weight                = weight of hide or skin after all beamhouse
                             operations, i. e. after removal of skin compo-
                             nents which do not yield leather.
                             Water content of pelts 70 – 85 %.
Pelt weight obtained from    green weight        = 170 –1 95 %
                             salted weight      =  190 – 120 %
                             dry salted weight =   140 – 160 %
                             dry weight         =  140 – 240 %
Tanned weight              = weight of hide or skin after completion of
                             tannage and after horsing up for at least
                             12 hours.
                             Water content of leather 70 – 85 %.
Setting out weight         = weight of hide or skin after treatment on the
                             setting out machine.
                             Water content of leather 50 – 70 %.
Sammed weight              = weight of hide or skin after treatment on the
                             samming machine.
                             Water content of leather 40 – 50 %.
Shaved weight              = weight of hide or skin after shaving to the
                             thickness desired.
                             Water content of leather 35 – 45 %.
Leather dry weight         = weight of leather after drying, i. e. after com-
                             pletion of all wet processes.
                             Water content of leather 8 – 20 %.
                                                                           279
Weight and area of leather
Conversion factors for various curing stages of hides and skins
(According to UNFAO, Rome, for the OECD region)
Green:           salted              = 1 : 0.85
Green:           dry-salted          = 1 : 0.55
Green:           dry                 = 1 : 0.35
Green:           pickled             = 1 : 0.65
Salted:          green               = 1 : 1.2
Salted:          dry-salted          = 1 : 0.65
Salted:          dry                 = 1 : 0.4
Salted:          pickled             = 1 : 0.8
Dry-salted:      green               = 1 : 1.85
Dry-salted:      salted              = 1 : 1.5
Dry-salted:      dry                 = 1 : 0.8
Dry-salted:      pickled             = 1 : 1.2
Dry:             green               = 1 : 2.85
Dry:             salted              = 1 : 2.5
Dry:             dry-salted          = 1 : 1.3
Dry:             pickled             = 1 : 2.0
Pickled:         green               = 1 : 1.55
Pickled:         salted              = 1 : 1.25
Pickled:         dry-salted          = 1 : 0.8
Pickled:         dry                 = 1 : 0.5
280
                                              Weight and area of leather
Area and weight yields of some types of raw hides
1 kg salted weight of:
                                                   = 0.158 m2 = 1.69 sq. ft
• U.S. Packers                 (50/60 lbs)
                                                   = 0.141 m2 = 1.51 sq. ft
• Argent. cattle hides         (14/16 kg)
                                                   = 0.185 m2 = 1.98 sq. ft
• Scand. cattle hides          (17/24 kg)
                                                   = 0.154 m2 = 1.65 sq. ft
• Cows/Central Europe          (30/39.5 kg)
                                                   = 0.122 m2 = 1.31 sq. ft
• Bulls/Central Europe         (30/39.5 kg)
The yield can be determined only when processing large batches of hides
or skins.
The yield is decisively dependent on the class of raw hide or skin, the
weight class and the country of origin.
No generally applicable figures can therefore be given.
Area yield of various types of finished leathers
1 kg finished weight of              Leather          Leather
(cattle hide)                        thickness        area ca.
                                                      = 1.7 m2
• Nappa clothing leather             1.0 mm
                                                      = 1.5 m 2
• Furniture upholstery leather       1.2 mm
                                                      = 1.5 m2
• Automotive leather                 1.2 mm
                                                      = 0.8 m2
• Corrected grain side leather       1.5 mm
                                                      = 0.6 m2
• Softy leather                      1.9 mm
                                                      = 0.8 m2
• Box side (black)                   1.5 mm
                                                      = 0.5 m2
• Sports box                         2.2 mm
Area yield is largely dependent on structure of hide, tannage, retannage,
fatliquoring and finishing.
                                                                        281
Weight and area of leather
Leather production costs
The percentages indicated should be considered only as approximate
figures, as the rawstock prices are subject to considerable fluctuations,
depending on availability and market conditions. Moreover, the wage
costs as well as the costs of chemicals differ largely in the individual
countries.
                                               Chemicals
                                               ca. 10 %
                      Production
                      overhead costs
                         ca. 20 %
             Wage costs
             ca. 12 %
 Energy
                                     Rawstock
 ca. 3 %
                                     ca. 55 %
282
                                             Weight and area of leather
Materials required for the production of various types of leather
1. Products for the wet processes
    (approximate amounts required in kilogram)
                         Upper leather,  Sole leather,  Nappa leather,
                         cattle hide     cattle hide    lamb skin
                         per 100 kg      per 100 kg     per 100 kg
                         salted weight   salted weight  dry weight
Soaking agents           0.1 – 0.3       0.1 – 0.3      0.5 –1.5
(e. g. Mollescal BW)
Liming chemicals         3.0 – 5.0       3.0 – 5.0      6.0 –10.0
(Na2S, Mollescal SF,
NaSH)
(hydrated lime)          2.0 – 6.0       1.0 – 3.0      6.0 –10.0
Deliming agents          1.0 – 3.0       1.0 – 2.0      2.0 – 5.0
(e. g. Decaltal types)
Bating agents
(e. g. Basozym 1000)     0.5 –1.5        –              1.0 – 3.0
Chrome tanning agents 5.0 –10.0          –              8.0 –15.0
(e. g. Chromitan types)
Vegetable tanning
materials                1.0 – 5.0       20.0 – 40.0    3.0 – 5.0
(e. g. mimosa)
Synthetic tanning agents 1.0 – 5.0       5.0 –15.0      5.0 –15.0
(e. g. Basyntan types)
Neutralizing agents      0.5 – 2.0       –              1.5 – 4.0
(e. g. Neutrigan)
Wetting agents           0.2 – 0.5       –              1.5 – 6.0
(e. g. Eusapon S)
Fatliquors               2.0 – 8.0       0.5 –1.5       3.0 –10.0
(e. g. Lipoderm
Liquor types)
Dyes                     0.5 – 3.0       –              1.0 – 6.0
(e. g. Luganil types)
The amounts required are largely dependent on the rawstock, the pro-
cessing method in the individual tanneries and the type of processing
vessels used (paddle, drum, mixer, Y-drum).
                                                                      283
Weight and area of leather
2. Finishing products
(Approximate amounts required in g per m2 leather)
Products                  Full grain leather        Correct. Splits
                                                    grain side
                          aniline semi- pigmen-
                                   aniline ted
Pigments                   0– 3      5 – 20 20 – 40 20 – 50     30 – 60
(e. g. Lepton Colours N)
Aniline dyes              20 – 40 10 – 20    5 – 10  0 – 10      0–    5
(e. g. Eukesolar Dyes
150 Liquid)
Binders                    5 – 30 10 – 50 40 – 80   80 – 120   140 – 240
(e. g. Astacin Finish and
Corial, Lepton Binder
types)
Auxiliaries                5 – 20 10 – 30 10 – 40   20 – 40     20 – 40
(e. g., waxes, modifiers,
and flow improvers)
Top coating emulsions     20 – 60 20 – 60 20 – 60   30 – 60     30 – 60
(e. g. Corial EM Finish)
Waster based top coats 20 – 60 20 – 60 20 – 60      30 – 60     30 – 60
(Astacin/Lepton Top
and Astacin/Lepton
Matting ranges)
Organic solvents           0 – 10    0 – 30  0 – 30  0 – 80      0 – 40
The amounts required are largely dependent on the finishing technique,
the desired degree of pigmentation as well as on the requirements im-
posed regarding appearance, surface handle and physical properties.
284
                                         Safety, environmental protection
Safety and environmental protection
Safety Data Sheets
Since around 1975, the safety data sheet has been the medium by which
manufacturers of chemicals for industrial use have informed their custo-
mers on the safe handling of chemicals and the hazards that they pose in
practice.
Safety Data Sheets - Historical development
1975 Issued on a voluntary basis for dyes and pigments
       (on initiative of ETAD)
1977 Issued for auxiliaries
       (on initiative of VCI, TEGEWA, etc.)
1983 DIN 52900
1991 EU Directive 91/155 EEC (for preparations)
       Contents of Safety Data Sheets standardized
1993 EU Directive 93/112 EEC (Directive 91/155/EEC extended to
       include substances)
2001 EU Directive 01/58 EEC (contents of MSDS)
EC Material Safety Data Sheets (EC-MSDS) are mandatory for all
that require classification products with effect from 1 July 1993.
It has been standard practice at BASF for many years to issue safety
data sheets according to this standard for every single product, irrespec-
tive of whether or not it requires classification.
According to the legal requirements in EC every customer is automati-
cally sent a safety data sheet the first time a product is ordered. In a
period of one year customers are automatically sent the latest version
whenever amendments are necessary because of new findings, etc.
In other countries following other chemical legislation as EC the form of
the safety data sheet is following other legal rules.
In the last years the international harmonisation efforts bring these coun-
tries specifics more and more closely together.
For that reason we give above some overview only for the EC-MSDS.
For self-understanding reason the different countries still have the requi-
rements to have the MSDS available in the country-specific language.
                                                                         285
Safety, environmental protection
The data contained in the EC-MSDS give information on the safe hand-
ling of products, hazardous ingredients and carriage recommendations,
as well as on the chemical, physical, toxicological and ecological pro-
perties of products, and the resultant classification and labelling. It has to
be made available in the language of the EU member in question.
Structure of the EC-MSDS
  1. Substance/preparation and company name, intended use
  2. Composition/information on hazard ingredients
  3. Possible hazards
  4. First aid measures
  5. Fire-fighting measures
  6. Accidental release measures
  7. Handling and storage
  8. Exposure controls and personal protection
  9. Physical and chemical properties
10. Stability and reactivity
11. Toxicological information
12. Ecological information
13. Disposal considerations
14. Transport information
15. Regulatory information (labelling)
16. Other information
The most important information presented in each individual section is
summarized below. More detailed information is contained in EU Directive
2001/58/EEC.
The main purpose of Sections 1 and 2 is to identify the product in que-
stion. They contain information on the product name, chemical nature,
the address of the company and an emergency telephone number and
the intended use. It is not necessary to list all of the ingredients of prepa-
rations and their concentrations, but it is obligatory to list hazardous
ingredients if they exceed the concentrations specified in the EU Prepara-
tions Directive (1999/45/EEC) and components which have official wor-
king-place-hazard-limits.
286
                                         Safety, environmental protection
Sections 3 to 8 contain information on the potential hazards that can be
posed to man and the environment on exposure to the product in que-
stion under various conditions and safety instructions.
• Recommended extinguishants and unsuitable extinguishants.
• Toxic combustion products formed in the case of fire.
• Technical precautions to be taken during handling and storage, such
     as avoiding electrostatic discharges, preventing dust from being rai-
     sed, etc.
• General principles of industrial hygiene and, if necessary, personal
     equipment (protective clothing, respirators, etc.) required to minimize
     exposure.
Sections 9 –12 contain the physical and chemical data used to assess
products on the basis of their reactivity and stability under different stor-
age conditions, their toxic effects on mammals, and their effects in water,
soil and air. These data form the basis for the information presented in
Sections 3 - 8 and 13 - 15.
Section 13 contains information on suitable methods of disposal or recy-
cling.
Section 14 contains comprehensive information on carriage regulations.
It covers the various classes and divisions of dangerous goods, codes for
transport by road and rail, UN numbers, technical designations and infor-
mation relating to carriage by parcel post and express goods services,
etc.
Section 15 contains information on labelling. Labelling is a concise
means of presenting important information required to ensure safe hand-
ling. Substances are labelled according to Annex VI of EU Directive
67/548/EEC and preparations according to 1999/45/EEC. The labelling
usually takes the form of hazard symbols, hazard warnings, risk
phrases (R phrases) and safety phrases (S phrases).
The classification and labelling of hazardous preparations is based either
on available data, component (i.e. substance) data or calculation “% pro-
portion of hazardous substances contained in the preparation”.
It is important to ensure that the labelling refers exclusively to the poten-
tial hazards posed by the product in question, and recommendations
designed to guarantee safe handling. The labelling does not constitute a
risk assessment (see “Interpretation of data contained in EC-MSDS”).
Section 15 can also contain details required by national legislation. For
instance, EC-MSDS issued in Germany contain details required by water
conservation legislation (Wassergefährdungsklasse).
                                                                           287
Safety, environmental protection
Section 16 can contain other information relevant to safety and occupa-
tional health which is not covered by the other sections, such as:
• Sources of the most important data used to compile the safety data
    sheet
• Suggested reading (technical information leaflets, publications, etc.)
Classification “Dangerous for the environment”
Directive 91 /325/EEC and 1999/45/EEC stipulate that substances and
preparations are classified according to ecological criteria.
The hazard classification “dangerous for the environment” has been in
use for some time in the case of substances.
Due to the revision of the EU Dangerous Preparations Directive the
hazard classification “Dangerous for the environment” has now been
extended to include preparations. As this classification is new for prepa-
rations in the leather industry BASF normally only sell preparations
according to chem-law-definition. A short overview will be given for that
issue.
The potential effects of chemicals on the environment are assessed
according to their acute toxicity to fish, daphnia and algae, their removal
from waste water (by biotic and/or abiotic means), their potential for bio-
accumulation and their chronic toxicity to aquatic life. Data that are rele-
vant for classification purposes are listed in Section 12 of the safety data
sheet. Products are rated according to the hazards posed to the environ-
ment on the basis of adverse effect levels in the same way that they are
classified according to their acute toxicity in mammals.
The evaluation of the health and environmental hazards of a preparation
can be assessed in analogue to the acute toxicity either by a calculation
method based on the concentration(s) in the preparation of any compo-
nents(s) that are hazardous or based on tests carried out on the prepara-
tion itself. If test results are available for the preparation then the hazard
classification based on these results has priority over calculation
methods.
288
                                          Safety, environmental protection
The hazard symbol “N”, the dead fish and dead tree pictogram, the
hazard warning “Dangerous for the environment” and the risk phrases R
50/51/52/53 are used to label substances according to environmental
hazards. Substances and preparations are classified in six different cate-
gories which are designated by risk phrases. Substances allocated to
categories I to III have to be labelled with the hazard symbol “N” and the
pictogram. Substances in categories IV to VI only need to be labelled
with the appropriate risk phrases.
Apart from data relevant to the “Dangerous for the environment” classifi-
cation Section 12 of our EC-MSDS can contain other information such
as:
• The effects of the substance in question on waste-water bacteria
     and its behaviour in effluent treatment plants;
• An assessment of the quality of the waste water in terms of its chemi-
     cal oxygen demand and biochemical oxygen demand (COD,
     BOD); and
• the possibility of contamination of the waste water with AOX and
     heavy metals as indicated by the product's organic halogen content
     and heavy metal content. (lt must be borne in mind that this informa-
     tion always refers to the product itself. The actual level of contamina-
     tion, especially with products that are incorporated into the leather
     substrate during processing is much lower in practice.)
The labelling required on account of the product in question being classi-
fied as “Dangerous for the environment” is given in Section 15.
Interpretation of data contained in EC-MSDS
EC-MSDS contain information and recommendations that are designed
to make it possible to handle chemical products safely. This requires
extensive experimental work which consumes a great deal of time effort
and money. In safety data sheets, the results of this work are presented
in condensed form, and this can lead to misinterpretation. The greatest
scope for misinterpretation is in the area of toxicology (Section 11). This
is discussed below.
It is rarely the case that the toxicology of chemical products can be eva-
luated from direct experience of their effects in man, and so animal expe-
riments have to be used instead. Strict legal controls apply to these
experiments. The design of experiments and methodology are laid down
in detail, they are subject to an extensive licensing system and they are
monitored continuously. Products are assessed according to their acute
                                                                           289
Safety, environmental protection
oral toxicity, irritation to the skin and mucous membranes, mutagenic,
teratogenic and carcinogenic effects and the effects of repeated or pro-
longed exposure. The results form the criteria by which products are
classified, and they are taken into consideration together with other
data to determine the product's labelling (Section 15).
Labelling is a means of drawing the user's attention to potential
hazards, informing the user of recommendations for safe usage and
warning the user against improper use. The potential hazards posed by a
product are often confused with the real risk that it poses. For instance,
a product that is labelled is not necessarily harmful if it is used properly.
Labelling a product as harmful means that the product is only harmful if
the user is exposed to it in a particular way.
The risk posed to man and the environment can be assessed from the
potential hazard x exposure.
The potential hazard posed by a product is a constant factor. The level
of exposure is variable and this determines the overall risk. The expo-
sure to a product is governed by the quantity administered, the length
of time for which it is administered, the route by which it is applied, etc.
The user can be protected from the full potential hazards posed by a
chemical by limiting the extent to which he is exposed to it. With dange-
rous substances, a variety of regulations have to be observed, such as
occupational exposure limits, health and safety regulations, safety fac-
tors, and restrictions or total bans on the use of products.
This implies that hazardous products are safe to use if they are handled
properly and if the recommended safety precautions are followed.
The impact of chemical products on the environment can only be asses-
sed full by considering the actual quantities entering the environment and
these figures are dependent on local and regional conditions. It is, there-
fore, essential that end-users and local authorities have access to all the
relevant product data standing in section 16. In order to support person-
nel involved in such environmental work the manufacturer must make the
data available in a readily understandable form. Emphasis is placed here
on the communication of data by means of a safety data sheet contai-
ning all relevant data.
290
                                      Safety, environmental protection
Regulations concerning the transportation of materials classified
as dangerous goods
Road/Rail  GGVE/GGVS       Gefahrgutverordnung Eisenbahn/Straße
           RID*/ADR        Règlement international concernant le trans-
                           port des marchandises dangereuses par che-
                           min de fer/Accord européen relatif au trans-
                           port international des marchandises par
                           route.
Waterway   IMDG**          International maritime dangerous goods code
           ADN/ADNR        Inland waterway transport
Air        ICAO/IATA**
Class 1:   Explosives and articles containing explosives
Class 2:   Compressed, liquefied or dissolved gases under pressure
Class 3:   Inflammable, liquid materials (combustible liquids)
Class 4.1: Inflammable materials
Class 4.2: Spontaneously combustible materials
Class 4.3: Materials developing inflammable gases when wet
Class 5.1: Oxidizing materials
Class 5.2: Organic peroxides
Class 6.1: Toxic materials
Class 6.2: Nauseating or infectious substances
Class 7:   Radioactive substances
           Corrosive substances
Class 8:
Class 9:   Other dangerous substances and articles
* http://www.otif.org
** http:/www.hazmathelp.com
                                                                     291
Safety, environmental protection
Danger symbols – marking according to the Regulation on
Dangerous Goods (GefStoffV)
                Xi                                                            Xn
                                         also for
                                                                       Harmful – Nocif
                                                                     Schadelijk – Nocivo
                                                    Chronically
                                                      damaging
                            Sensitising
                                                                    Gesundheitsschädlich
        Reizend – Irritant                                        Sundheds(Hoise)-skadelig
                                                                  Harmful to health
            Irritant
                T                                                             T+
       Toxic(o) – Toxique                                         Very toxic – Molto tossico
                                                                  Muy toxico – Muito tóxico
             Tossico
                            Carcinogenic
                            Mutagenic
                                                                   Sehr giftig – Très toxique
        Giftig – Vergiftig                                        Meget giftig – Zeer vergiftig
             Toxic                                                      Very toxic
                O                             F                               F+
                                     Highly/Facilement                    Extremely
     Oxidizing – Comburant
                                        inflammable                      inflammable
                                                                      Hochentzündlich
                                     Leicht entzündlich
         Brandfördernd
          Oxidizing               Highly inflammable            Extremely inflammable
                C                             E                                N
       Corrosive – Corrosif
            Corrosivo
        Ätzend – Corrosief
                                          Explosive
       Ætsende – Etsende
          Corrosive                     Explosive               Environmentally hazardous
292
                                         Safety, environmental protection
Danger labels prescribed by IMDG Code
(International maritime dangerous goods code)
Marking according to the Regulation on Dangerous Goods.
                                                            POISON
                                 FLAMMABLE GAS
         EXPLOSIVE                                            GAS
                *
                1                      2                       2
           Explosive          Flammable Gas               Poison Gas
            Orange                   Red                     White
          NON-FLAMMABLE         FLAMMABLE LIQUID         FLAMMABLE SOLID
         COMPRESSED GAS
                2                      3                       4
                                                       Flammable solid
                                 Flammable
        Non-flammable
                                                              Red,
                                    liquid
       compressed gas
                                                        vertical stripes
                                     Red
             Green
                                                            POISON
          SPONTANEOUSLY       DANGEROUS WHEN WET
           COMBUSTIBLE
                4                      4                        6
                                                            Poison
                                 Dangerous
        Spontaneously
                                                             White
                                  when wet
         combustible
                                     Blue
        Red, lower half
                                                                         293
Safety, environmental protection
 Danger labels prescribed by IMDG Code
(International maritime dangerous goods code)
Marking according to the Regulation on Dangerous Goods.
                                                                          INFECTIOUS SUBSTANCE
              HARMFUL                                                                                                                            OXIDIZING AGENT
                                                                               In Case of Damage or Leakage
                                                                                      Immediately Notify
             STOW AWAY FROM
                                                                                           Public Health
                 FOODSTUFFS
                                                                                                Authority
                                                                                                                                                                       5.1
                                                                                                          6
                                    6
                Harmful                                                            Infectious                                                  Oxidizing agent
                                                                                  substance                                                              Yellow
                                                                              RADIOACTIVE I                                                     RADIOACTIVE II
        ORGANIC PEROXIDE                                                     CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inhalt  CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inhalt
                                                                                ACTIVITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aktivität                ACTIVITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aktivität
                                                                                                                                                               Transport-
                                                                                                                                                                  kennzahl
                                                                                                                                                            TRANSPORT INDEX
                                5.2                                                                       7                                                                  7
       Organic peroxide                                                        Radioactive I                                                    Radioactive II
                   Yellow                                                                 White                                                             White
                                                                                RADIOACTIVE
        RADIOACTIVE III
                                                                                                                                                     CORROSIVE
        CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inhalt
          ACTIVITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aktivität
                       Transport-
                          kennzahl
                    TRANSPORT INDEX
                                                                                                          7
                                     7                                                                                                                                      8
         Radioactive III                                                  Radioactive Yellow,                                                        Corrosive
                      White                                                       upper half                                                   Black, lower half
294
                                     Safety, environmental protection
Some basic terms concerning the safe handling of chemicals
Dose (D)             Measured or prescribed amount of a sub-
                     stance.
                     Some common abbreviations:
                               toxic dose
                     Dtox
                     DE        efficient dose
                     DL (LD)   lethal dose
                     ID        individual dose
                     IMD       individual maximum dose
                     MD        maximum dose
                     MDD       maximum daily dose
                     ND        normal dose
                     DD        daily dose
                     MDD       maximum daily dose
                     The lethal dose is subdivided into:
                               the absolutely lethal dose
                     LD100
                               the average lethal dose, at which 50 %
                     LD50
                               of the animals in the experiment are kil-
                               led
                               the maximum non-lethal dose.
                     LD0
Flash Point          DIN 53169
                     The flash point is the lowest temperature, at a
                     pressure of 1013.25 mbar, at which vapours are
                     developed from the specimen under the condi-
                     tions of this standard in such quantities that
                     they form together with air over the liquid level a
                     mixture that can be inflamed by foreign ignition.
                     The MAK value (maximale Arbeitsplatz-Konzen-
MAK
                     tration) is the maximum allowable concentration
                     in the workplace of a working material in the
                     form of gas, vapour, or air-suspended matter
                     which, according to our present state of know-
                     ledge, generally does not impair the health of
                     the workers and does not inconvenience them
                     unduly, not even on repeated and prolonged
                     exposure for normally 8 hours daily under the
                     condition of a weekly working time of up to 45
                     hours. As a rule, the MAK value is integrated as
                                                                    295
Safety, environmental protection
                       an average value over periods of up to one wor-
                       king day or one work shift. In establishing MAK
                       values, the main consideration is the characteri-
                       stic effects of the materials, but as far as possi-
                       ble consideration is also given to the practical
                       conditions of the working processes or of the
                       resultant exposure pattern. What finally matters
                       is the scientifically based criteria of industrial
                       hygiene, and not the technical and economical
                       possibilities of implementation in industrial prac-
                       tice.
Safety labels          Drums, containers etc. containing hazardous
                       products must be marked with specific labels
                       that make it possible to classify the product at
                       one glance.
Toxicity               The degree of being poisonous.
                       Subdivided in
                       a. acute toxicity      = poisoning produced by a
                                                single dose
                       b. subchronical        = poisoning produced by
                           toxicity             repeated dosage within a
                                                relatively short time
                       c. chronical toxicity = poisoning produced by
                                                repeated dosage over a
                                                relatively long time.
296
                                       Safety, environmental protection
Environmental protection
Environmental protection starts with the selection of environmentally
friendly products and processes and continues with an appropriate
treatment of waste water and airborne emissions.
Selection of environmentally friendly products and processes in leather
production
Soaking               • Fresh raw hides free of salt (green hides)
                      • Biodegradable surfactants
Liming                • Low sulfide and sulfide-free liming processes
                      • Hair saving processes
                      • Recycling of spent liquor
Deliming              • Low ammonium and ammonium-free deliming
                        processes
Bating                • Low ammonium and ammonium-free bating pro-
                        cesses
Pickling              • Low salt and salt-free pickling processes
Tannage               • Recycling of residual chromium in spent tanning
                        liquor from wet blue production
                      • Improved chrome exhaustion and fixation
                      • Pretanning and shaving of the pretanned pelts
                      • Alternative tanning techniques without chromium
Retannage             • Retanning agents with high exhaustion
                      • Polymeric tanning agents
                      • Low-phenol and low-formaldehyde syntans
                      • Low-salt liquid retanning agents
                      • Low-formaldehyde resin tanning agents
                      • Aldehyde tanning agents
Dyeing                • Dedusted powder dyes
                      • Liquid dyes
                      • Fixing agents
                      • Dyeing auxiliaries
Fatliquoring          • AOX-free fatliquors
                      • Polymeric fatliquors with high exhaustion
Water repellent       • Water repellents that do not need to be fixed
treatment               with metal salts
Finishing             • Aqueous finishing systems
                      • Pigment preparations free of heavy metals
                                                                      297
Safety, environmental protection
Legislation
Different approaches are taken to environmental legislation in different
states, and legislation is applied to different phenomena. This makes it
very difficult to draw direct comparisons between the legislation that
applies to different countries. Further more environmental legislation is
subject to continual amendment. It is not the aim of this booklet to
describe environmental legislation world wide and list limits in waste
water and airborne emissions. The following is just an overview on what
has to be taken into account on responsible handling of tannery emissi-
ons.
In tanneries all over the world the waste water is nowadays treated in
effluent treatment plants. The following steps are generally run through,
although they may be arranged in a different order, or repeated several
times, or combined differently according to the requirements.
298
                                     Safety, environmental protection
Waste water treatment (flow chart)
  Waste
   water
 storage           Separation of setting and floating
                   materials
                   a. coarse materials by rakes
 Mechanical        b. sand by sand traps
 treatment         c. grease and oil by separators
                                                         Sludge
                   Preclarification
                   Setting and removal of sediment
                   Removal of colloidal and dissolved
                   components by precipitation with
 Chemical
                   selective flocculating agents and
 treatment
                   conversion with special chemicals
                   and adjustment of pH
                                                         Sludge
                   Clarification
                   Setting and removal of sediment
                   Biochemical degradation by
                   a. activated sludge with surface air
                      or compressed air ventilation
 Biological
                   b. percolating filter (bed of porous
 treatment
                      stone or plastics with biomass) –
                      spray systems
                                                         Sludge
                         Afterclarification basin
                                 Main drain
                                                                 299
Safety, environmental protection
Water-polluting substances
Water pollutants are solid, liquid and gaseous substances which are
capable of changing the physical, chemical or biological conditions of
waters to a lasting extent.
In Germany for example, installations for storing, filling and treating
water-polluting substances and installations using water-pollutants in
industry and public facilities have to be so constructed that waters are
neither polluted nor lastingly changed in their properties (German Water
Conservation Law, paragraph 19 g).
The German ministry responsible for the protection of environment and
nature and for reactor safety has classified the pollutants according to
their potential hazard in a catalogue (published 9 March 1990).
Classification of water pollutants in 4 classes:
Class  3:    strongly water-polluting substances
Class  2:    water-polluting substances
Class  1:    weakly water-polluting substances
Class  0:    substances which generally have no water-polluting effect
The assessment of the water-polluting potential is based on the specific
properties of the substances:
   – acute toxicity on mammals,
   – aquatic toxicity on fishes, dolphins, algae and bacteria,
   – biological degradability (hydrolysis, photolysis, oxidation, etc.),
   – soil mobility,
   – ability to accumulate biologically,
   – carcinogenic effect,
   – mutagenic effect,
   – teratogenic effect.
Producers of preparations can classify their products according to their
own material specifications.
300
                                          Safety, environmental protection
Types of sludge and treatment
Primary sludge              Solids which are directly separated from the
                            waste water (coarse and fine sludge, containing
                            hide and skin fibres, hairs and hair particles,
                            shavings, waste leather, lime, reaction pro-
                            ducts, e.g. chemicals, tanning agents, and fatty
                            materials). 3 – 5 m3 of primary sludge per ton of
                            processed raw hide or skin with ca. 5 % of dry
                            substance.
Secondary sludge            Flocculant sediments (fine sludge), obtained
                            after chemical or biological treatment; 1 – 2 % of
                            dry substance.
Methods of treatment (dewatering)
1. Thickening (mechanical settling).
2. Putrefaction with exclusion of air in digestion towers (for 20 – 30 days
   at ca. 33 °C). Organic components are largely decomposed with for-
   mation of methane gas.
3. Drying by heating (drum kiln).
4. Mechanical dewatering after conditioning with pressure filters
   (chamber filter presses) vacuum filters/suction cell filters, sieves
   (gravel filters) and centrifugal hydroextractors.
Disposal of sludge and solid wastes
1. Disposal on dumping sites permitted only for solid or solidified materi-
   als that involve no hygienic hazard. The materials must not burn, dust,
   or form objectionable odours, and they must contain no components
   that can be dissolved by rain water.
2. Combustion of waste materials at high oven temperature and with
   ensurance of waste gas purity.
3. Composting: Suitable for waste mixtures with a carbon: nitrogen ratio
   of 20 – 30:1. (Optimum solution for maintenance of natural material
   balance).
                                                                            301
Safety, environmental protection
Leather processing: Wastes/Leather substance
1. Wastes
Calculated on 100 % weight of salted raw skin:
Fleshings for glue                                       14 –16 %
Trimmings for glue                                       14 –18 %
Sewage sludge (soluble proteins, solubilized hair)       12 –16 %
Hair (recovered from hairsaving liming processes)         0 –15 %
If green hides are used please note that the values have to be about 15 %
higher.
Calculated on 100 % weight of wet blue
Shavings                                           approx. 5 %
Shaved Trimmings                                   approx. 15 %
2. Leather substance (Calculated on 100% weight of wet blue)
Grain split                                              47 – 50 %
Flesh split                                        approx. 40 %
Recovery of wastes
1. Wool                      Textile mills
    Hair, bristles           Production of felts, carpets, non-wovens,
                             brushes.
2. Split offal and           Gelatine, sausage skins, protein powder,
    Trimmings for glue       medical and surgical film and fabric
                             substrates.
                             Glue, fodder, fertilizers.
3. Machine offal for glue
4. Shavings,                 Leatherboard, non-wovens,
    leather Trimmings        synthetic leatherlike materials, chemical
                             auxiliaries, fodder, fertilizers.
302
                                        Safety, environmental protection
Percentage of effluents obtained in various processes
(Calculated on total waste water in normal working method)
Soaking, liming, rinsing             ca.  30 – 40
Deliming, bating, rinsing            ca.  15 – 20
Pickling, chrome tanning             ca.   5 –10
Vegetable-synthetic tanning          ca.  20 – 25
Neutralizing, dyeing, fatliquoring   ca.  15 – 20
Samming, pasting, cleaning           ca.   2– 7
General waste water                  ca.   2– 5
Regulations concerning substances contained in effluents from
tanneries
– Requirements and treatments –
The regulations governing the quality of effluents discharged from tanne-
ries differ from one country to another. The restrictions are more or less
stringent, depending on the local conditions and whether the effluents
are discharged into a main drain direct or indirect, i.e. first into a public
waste water or central treating plant. Samples of the effluents for testing
are taken at the point at which the effluents are discharged into the
public sewer, or from the main drain.
The following table offers methods of adjusting the most important efflu-
ent parameters.
                                                                            303
Safety, environmental protection
Regulations concerning direct or indirect discharge of effluents:
                       Measure
Temperature            Adjust temperature.
pH value               If necessary, add acid or alkali for neutralization.
Settling substances    Cut down the amount by mechanical separa-
                       tion, addition of flocculating agents (aluminium
                       or iron sulfates or chlorides) and addition of
                       sedimentation agents (Sedipur types).
Substances extract-    Removal of fats and oils by separator.
able with petroleum
ether (biologically
not degradable)
Toxic substances       Biological degradation must not be disturbed
                       by toxic organic compounds. (A 1:5 dilution of
                       the effluent must not have a toxic effect in the
                       fish test.)
COD / BOD              Cut down oxygen demand by flocculation, sedi-
                       mentation and biological degradation. Omit use
                       of oxygen-demanding substances.
Ammonia/nitrogen       Use hair saving liming processes and nitrogen-
                       free products (particularly in deliming).
Aluminium              Flocculate out of residual and wash liquors.
Chromium-III-          Flocculate chromium salts out of residual and
compounds              rinsing liquors; recirculate residual liquors; fix
                       chromium salts in the leather; use chrome tan-
                       ning process with extensive exhaustion of resi-
                       dual liquors.
                       Do not use chromium-VI- compounds; use no
Chromium-VI-
compounds              oxidizing agents in beamhouse processes.
                       Use products with lowest content of free
Phenol
                       phenol.
304
                     Safety, environmental protection
Sulfide Use sulfide-free liming chemicals; use catalytic
        oxidizing agents (manganese sulfate, manga-
        nese chloride); recirculate residual liming
        liquors. Recover sulfides by acidifying residual
        liquors and running all of the hydrogen sulfide
        formed into caustic soda.
Sulfite Use less sulfite-containing products.
Sulfate Use products with lower sulfate content in deli-
        ming or in the pickle Picaltal in place of sulfuric
        acid.
AOX     Use products that do not contain organic
        halogen compounds.
                                                        305
Safety, environmental protection
Airborne emissions
Airborne emissions are in many countries less strictly regulated than
discharges in waste water. In Germany airborne emissions are covered
by the “Technische Anleitung zur Reinhaltung der Luft” (TA Luft).
All countries have their own classification and limitation of hazardous
substances that are released to air. No specific limits exist for the leather
industry.
Emissions to air in the leather industry
Process                 Substance        Avoidance
Wet end                 Dust             • dedusted products
                                         • liquid products
Deliming/Bating         H 2S             • see below
Pretanning/Tanning/     Glutaraldehyde • automatic dosage systems
Retanning
                                         • modified Glutaraldehyde with
                                           lower vapour pressure
                                           (e.g. Relugan GTP)
Finishing               VOC              • low VOC-systems
                                         • water-based systems
306
                                        Safety, environmental protection
Hydrogen sulfide hazards in the leather industry
The use of sodium sulfide, sodium hydro sulfide and organic sulfides for
the unhairing process is likely to cause development of hydrogen sulfide
in tanneries.
Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is strongly poisonous. It has an irritating effect on
the mucous membranes and moreover paralyses cell respiration and thus
damages the nerves. Poisoning by this gas results in inflammation of the
eyes, bronchial catarrh and inflammation of the lungs. Higher concentra-
tions cause cramps, unconsciousness and eventually death due to respi-
ratory paralysis.
Even at concentrations as low as 700 p.p.m. H2S in the inhaled air, acute
lethal poisoning may occur after a short time. In addition, hydrogen sul-
fide gas forms explosive mixtures with the air (explosion limits:
4.3 – 45.5 % by volume, ignition temperature 270 °C). Therefore, it is
absolutely necessary to avoid ignition sources.
Measures to reduce the likelihood of gas development and
contacting H2S
1. Use low sulfide or sulfide free liming methods.
2. Wash limed pelts several times in long floats (200 %) to reduce sulfide
    content of pelts.
3. Incorporate sodium bisulfite in deliming to oxidize H2S.
4. Wash thoroughly after deliming and bating.
5. Installation of ventilation and exhaust devices on drums and in
    workrooms.
6. Wear a protective mask when working at the drum.
7. Measure sodium sulfide concentration at the workplace and at the
    door of drums with the Dräger test tube for sodium sulfide 5/b. (Sup-
    plier: Drägerwerk AG, Lübeck)
                                                                          307
Safety, environmental protection
Some basic terms used in environmental protection
Activated sludge       Process for biological waste water treatment.
process                The waste water is condensed to slimy flakes
                       by extensive circulation and airing in a basin
                       with addition of aerobic microbes (activated
                       sludge), and the contaminations are biologically
                       degraded by the micro-organisms.
Adaptation             In biology, this term means the adjustment of
                       organisms to an unknown substance or to envi-
                       ronmental conditions (e.g. for micro-organisms,
                       the possibility of degrading a hitherto unutiliza-
                       ble substance).
AOX                    Adsorbable organically bound halogen
Biochemical oxygen     Measure of the content of organic substances
demand (BOD)           in the waste water which are biologically degra-
                       dable with consumption of oxygen. Usually indi-
                       cated as 5-day biochemical oxygen demand
                       (BOD5). This is the amount of oxygen in milli-
                       grams per litre (mg O2/l) that is consumed by
                       micro-organisms in 5 days at 20 °C for oxida-
                       tion of the biologically degradable substances
                       contained in the water. It is determined by
                          a. the dilution method
                          b. the vibration method (respirometric method).
BSB                    Biologischer Sauerstoffbedarf, the German term
                       for BOD.
Chemical oxygen        System of measuring the content of organic
demand (COD)           impurities with oxidizing agents. The consump-
                       tion of oxygen in milligrams per litre (mg O2/l) is
                       indicated. Determined with
                          a. potassium permanganate or with
                          b. potassium dichromate.
308
                                   Safety, environmental protection
Controlled          Controlled and supervised dumping site for
dumping site        waste materials.
CSB                 Chemischer Sauerstoffbedarf, the German term
                    for COD.
Degradability       The degree of biological or chemical decompo-
                    sition of organic compounds based mainly on
                    metabolism processes of micro-organisms.
Denitrification     The reduction of nitrates or nitrites to nitrogen
                    oxides, ammonia, and free nitrogen by certain
                    micro-organisms.
Dust                Solid aerosol with a particle size smaller than
                    200 x 10-3 mm. We distinguish between metal-
                    lic, mineral, vegetable, animal, artificial, and
                    radioactive dust according to its origin. Dust
                    forms an essential part of air pollution (emissi-
                    ons, immissions).
Einwohnergleichwert The number of human beings producing a daily
                    amount of waste water whose BOD5 corre-
(EWG)
                    sponds to the daily production of waste water
                    in industry (54 g BOD5 a day = 1 EWG).
Emissions           The gaseous, liquid, or solid substances emit-
                    ted by a plant or a technical process into the
                    atmosphere; noise, vibrations, light rays, heat
                    and radioactive effects, as well as liquid and
                    solid substances that penetrate, not into the
                    atmosphere, but into other environments.
Immission           Action of foreign substances in the air, noises or
                    vibrations on human beings, animals, or plants.
Immission value     Maximum value laid down for immissions.
(I value)           The immission values are a standardized
                    system laid down in TA Air.
                    I value 1: long-time action value
                    I value 2: short-time action value.
                                                                     309
Safety, environmental protection
Instigator responsi-   Principle applying to all producers and consu-
bility principle       mers in all environmental connections: the insti-
                       gator responsible must bear the costs resulting
                       from his pollution-causing behaviour.
Load value             Term used in waste water levy law. Known in
                       the most recent version as Schadeinheit (SE) or
                       damage unit.
Main drain             Drain into which waste water from dewatering
                       operations is discharged direct.
Nitrification          Microbial oxidation of ammonia to nitrate.
Pollution              Common term for environmental contamination.
Recycling              Re-use of end, intermediate, or by-products
                       obtained in industrial production processes in a
                       subsequent production cycle.
Settling basin         Basin in which a sedimentation of the settling
                       substances is effected by slowing down the
                       flow rate.
Settling substances    Solids that settle in water within a certain time.
Suspended matter       Solids that are suspended in water (or in some
                       other medium) because they have the same, or
                       almost the same, density.
TA                     Abbreviation for Technische Anleitung, admini-
                       strative regulations issued by the government of
                       the Federal Republic of Germany regarding
                       plants requiring official approval. Legally based
                       on the German Federal Immission Protection
                       Law.
310
                          Safety, environmental protection
TOC         Total organic carbon, name of a newer COD
            determination method. Based on complete
            combustion of organic carbon compounds
                                       3.67 mg CO2
            1 mg C + 2.67 mg O2
TOD         Total oxygen demand.
            Determined by complete thermal conversion in
            enclosed system. Difference between O2 con-
            tent of the air before and after combustion.
VOC         Volatile organic carbon.
Waste water According to DIN 4045 “water that has chan-
            ged, and in particular become contaminated,
            after household or industrial use and then
            discharged; also water from precipitations flo-
            wing into sewage systems”.
                                                         311
312                                                     Measures and weights
Standard physical units
SI base units
(SI = Système International d’Unités)
Basic quantity                                 SI base unit
                                        Name                Symbol
Length                                  metre               m
Mass                                    kilogram            kg
Time                                    second              s
Electric current                        ampere              A
Temperature (thermodynamic
or temperature difference)              kelvin              K
Amount of substance                     mole                mol
Luminous intensity                      candela             cd
Definition of SI base units
• metre          The metre is the length equal to 1 650 763.73 wavelength
                 in vacuum of the radiation corresponding to the transition
                 between the levels 2 p10 and 5 d5 of the krypton-86 atom.
• kilogram       The kilogram is the unit of mass; it is equal to the mass of
                 the international prototype of the kilogram.
• second         The second is the duration of 9 192 631 770 periods of
                 the radiation corresponding to the transition between the
                 two hyperfine levels of the ground state of the caesium-
                 133 atom.
• ampere         The ampere is that constant current which, if maintained
                 in two straight parallel conductors of infinite length, of
                 negligible circular cross-section, and placed one metre
                 apart in vacuum, would produce between these conduc-
                 tors a force equal to 2 · 10-7 newton per metre of length.
• kelvin         The kelvin, unit of thermodynamic temperature, is the
                 fraction 1/273.16 of the thermodynamic temperature of
                 the triple point of water.
                                                                            313
Measures and weights
• mole           The mole is the amount of substance of a system which
                 contains as many elementary entities as there are atoms
                 in 0.012 kilogram of carbon 12. When the mole is used,
                 the elementary entities must be specified and may be
                 atoms, molecules, ions, electrons, other particles, or spe-
                 cified groups of particles.
• candela        The candela is the luminous intensity, in the perpendicular
                 direction, of a black body at the temperature of freezing
                 platinum under a pressure of 101 325 newton per sqaure
                 metre.
Decimal multiples and sub-multiples of SI units
(Internationally adopted prefixes)
Factor by which the               Prefix                    Symbol
unit is multiplied
10-18                             atto                      a
10-15                             femto                     f
10-12                             piko                      p
10-9                              nano                      n
10-6                              micro                     μ
10-3                              milli                     m
10-2                              centi                     c
10-1                              deci                      d
10                                deca                      da
102                               hecto                     h
103                               kilo                      k
106                               mega                      M
109                               giga                      G
1012                              tera                      T
1015                              peta                      P
1018                              exa                       E
314
                                            Measures and weights
SI derived units with special names and symbols
Quantity                   SI unit    Relationship
                    Name       Symbol
Plane angle         radian     rad    1 rad = 1 m/m
                                            = 1 m2/m2
Solid angle         stera-     sr     1 sr
                    dian
Frequency of a      hertz      Hz     1 Hz = 1/s
periodic
occurence
Activity of a       bec-       Bq     1 Bq = 1/s
radioactive         querel
substance
                                            = 1 kg · m/s2
Force               newton     N      1N
                                      1 Pa = 1 N/m2 = 1 kg/m · s2
Pressure,           pascal     Pa
mechanical stress
                                            = 1 N · m = 1 kg · m2/s2
Energy, work,       joule      J      1J
quantity of heat                            = 1 Ws
Power,              watt       W      1 W = 1 J/s = 1 N · m/s
heat flow                                   = 1 VA
                                      1 Gy = 1 J/kg = 1 m2/s2
Energy dosage       grey       Gy
Electric charge,    coulomb C         1C    =1A·s
quantity of
electricity
Electric potential, volt       V      1V    = 1 J/C = 1 W/A
potential differen-
ces, electro-
motive force
                                                                315
Measures and weights
Quantity                   SI unit          Relationship
                     Name      Symbol
Electric             farad     F            1F     = 1 C/V = 1 A · s/V
capacitance
Electric             ohm                    1      = 1 V/A = 1/S
resistance
Electric             siemens S              1S     = 1/   = 1 A/V
conductance
Magnetic flux        weber     Wb           1 Wb = 1 V · s
                                                   = 1 Wb/m2
Magnetic flux        tesla     T            1T
density,
magnetic
induction
Inductance,          henry     H            1H     = 1 Wb/A = 1 V · s/A
magnetic
conductance
Celsius              degree    °C           *
temperature          Celsius
Luminous flux        lumen     lm           1 lm = 1 cd · sr
                                                   = 1 lm/m2
Illuminance          lux       lx           1 lx
The SI derived units are expressed in terms of base units, either as a
power of the base unit or as a compound unit formed by multiplication of
two or more units.
Example: m2 for area; kg · m/s2 for force.
The SI derived units form a coherent system together with the base units
and supplementary units. They include the multiples and submultiples of
the base unit obtained by attaching a prefix.
Example: 1 J = 1 kg (m/s)2 = 1 N m = · 1 W s for work.
* The Celsius temperature t is equal to the difference t = T – T0 between
   two thermodynamic temperatures T and T 0 where T0 = 273.15 K.
316
                                               Measures and weights
Units outside the SI with special names and symbols
Quantity                 SI unit       Relationship
                   Name      Symbol
Plane angle        full      **        1 full angle = 2 rad
                   angle
                   gon       gon       1 gon = ( /200) rad = 90°/100
                   degree    °*        1° = ( /180) rad
                   minute    '*        1' = (1/60)° = ( /10800) rad
                   second    "*        1" = (1/60)' = ( /648000) rad
Refractive power   dioptre   dpt**     1 dpt** = 1/m
of optical systems
                                       1 a = 100 m2
Area of ground     are       a
and floor
                                       1 ha = 104 m2
sections           hectare   ha
                                       1 l = 1 dm3 = 10-3 m3
Volume             litre     l
Mass               tonne     t         1 t = 1000 kg
                                       1 u = 1.66054 · 10-27 kg
Mass in nuclear    atomic    u**
physics            mass
                   unit
                                       1 Kt = 0.2 · 10-3 kg = 0.2 g
Mass of precious   metric    Kt**
stones             carat
                                                                    317
Measures and weights
Quantity                             SI unit          Relationship
                              Name       Symbol
                                                  1 tex = 10-6 kg/m = 1 g/km
Linear       textile fibres   tex        tex
density      and yarns
                              degree     Ø*
Time                          minute     min*     1 min = 60 s
                              hour       h*         1h  = 60 min = 3600 s
                              day        d*         1d  = 24 h = 86 400 s
                              common     a*         1a  = 365 d = 8760 h
                              year
                                                  1 bar = 105 Pa = 105 N/m2
Pressure     liquids, gases, bar         bar
             steams
                                                   1 eV = 1.60218 · 10-19 J
Energy       nuclear          electron   eV
             physics          volt
Units outside the SI are all units derived from the base units with a factor
deviating from 1 (see above table under relationship).
Exceptions: dioptre (1/m), although coherent, not declared SI unit.
              kilogram (kg) although with decimal prefix, the kilogram (kg)
                              is not a unit outside the SI, because it is a
                              base unit.
** without prefix
** not internationally standardized
318
                                                 Measures and weights
Definitions of various derived units
Quantity         Symbol   Definition
Force            N        The newton is the force which, applied to the
                          mass of 1 kilogram, gives it an acceleration of
                          1 m/s2. The hitherto used kilogram-force is
                          the force of 1 kg mass on a gravitational
                          basis (standard acceleration).
                          g = 9.80665 m/s2
Pressure         Pa       The pascal is the pressure produced by a
                          force of 1 N applied, uniformly distributed,
                          over an area of 1 m2.
                          1 bar = 105 Pa = 105 N/m2
                 bar
                 N/mm2    One N/mm2 is the stress exerted by a
Mechanical
stress                    force of 1 N from a material cross-section of
                          1 mm2.
Dynamic          Pa · s   The pascal second is equal to the dynamic
viscosity                 viscosity of a homogeneous fluid in which,
                          two layers 1 m apart, the top layer is moving
                          parallel to the bottom layer at a velocity of
                          1 m/s, and a shearing stress of 1 Pa is requi-
                          red to maintain this motion.
                 m2/s     The square metre/second is equal to the
Kinematic
viscosity                 kinematic viscosity of a homogeneous fluid of
                          1 Pa · s and 1 kg/m3 density.
Energy,          J        The joule is the work done when the point of
work,                     application of a force of 1 N is displaced
quantity of heat          through a distance of 1 m in the direction of
                          the force.
Power            W        The watt is equal to 1 J per second.
                                                                        319
Measures and weights
Conversion tables
Units of pressure
                              Pa         kPa       MPa   bar
                                                   N/mm2
(1 N/m2 =)                               10-3      10-6  10-5
               1 Pa       =   1
                              103                  10-3  10-2
               1 kPa      =              1
(1 N/mm2 =)                   106        103             101
               1 MPa      =                        1
                              105        102       10-1
(0.1 MPa =)    1 bar      =                              1
Units of mechanical stress
                                         N/mm2
                              Pa
(1 N/m2 =)                               10-6
               1 Pa       =   1
               1 N/mm2        106
(1 MPa =)                 =              1
Units of energy, work quantity of heat
                              J               kJ         kWh
                                              10-3       2.78 · 10-7
(= 1 Nm)       1 J = 1 Ws =   1
                              103                        2.78 · 10-4
               1 kJ       =                   1
                              3.60 · 106      3.60 · 103
               1 kWh      =                              1
Units of power, energy flow, heat flow
                                              W          kW
                                                         10-3
(= 1 Nm/s = 1 J/s             1W =            1
                                              103
                              1 kW =                     1
320
                                           Measures and weights
Conversion of some common units to equivalent values in SI units
Quantity     Exact equivalent              Rough approximation
                                           (max. 2 % deviation)
Force        1 kp       = 9.80665 N
             1p         = 0.00980665 N     1 kp   10 N
                        = 10-5 N
             1 dyn
             1 at = 1kp/cm2 = 0.980665 bar
Pressure                                   1 at   1 bar
             1 atm      = 1.01325 bar
             1 torr     = 1 mm Hg          1 torr   1.33 mbar
                        = 1.33322 mbar
             1 mWS      = 0.0980665 bar    1 mm WS      0.1 mbar
             1 mm WS =    0.0980665 mbar
             1 kp/mm2 = 9.80665 N/mm2      1 kp/mm2     10 N/mm2
Mechanical
             1 kp/cm2 = 0.980665 N/mm2
stress
                                           1 cP = 1 mm2/s
Dynamic      1 P (poise)= 0.1 Pa · s
Viscosity    1 cP       = 1 mPa · s
             1 St (stokes) = 10 -4 m2/s    1 cSt = 1 mm2/s
Kinematic
Viscosity
Energy,      1 kpm      = 9.80665 J        1 kpm     10 J
                          10-7 J
work,        1 erg      =
quantity     1 kcal     = 4.1840 kJ        1 kcal    4.2 kJ
of heat      1 kWh      = 3600 kJ
Power        1 kpm/s    = 9.80665 W        1 kpm/s 10 W
             1 PS       = 735.49875 W      1 PS 0.74 kW
             1 kcal/h   = 1.1630 W         1 kcal/h 1.16 W
                                                                321
Measures and weights
Units of length
Metric units of length
SI base unit = metre (m)
1 kilometre (km)       = 10 hectometres (hm) = 1000 metres (m)
1 metre (m)            = 10 decimetres (dm)    = 100 centimetres (cm)
1 centimetre (cm)      = 10 millimetres (mm)
1 millimetre (mm)      = 1000 micrometres (μm)
Other units of length
1 German land mile     = 7500 m
1 nautical mile        = 1852 m
1 geographical mile    = 7421.6 m
1 Faden (fathom)       =     1.85 m
British and US units of length
1 yard (yd)            =     0.9144 m
1 foot (ft)            =   30.48 cm
1 inch (in)            =     2.54 cm
1 fathom               =  182.9 cm
1 London mile          = 1524 m
1 mile (statute)       = 1609 m
1 nautical mile        = 1852 m
Conversion factors:
1 m = 1.0936 yd = 3.28 ft = 39.37 in
1 mm = 0.03937 in
322
                                        Measures and weights
Conversion table – metres and yards
yards               metres (m)
                    yards           metres (m)
  1.094             =    1   =        0.91438
  2.187             =    2   =        1.8288
  3.281             =    3   =        2.7432
  4.374             =    4   =        3.6576
  5.468             =    5   =        4.5720
  6.562             =    6   =        5.4864
  7.655             =    7   =        6.4008
  8.749             =    8   =        7.3152
  9.843             =    9   =        8.2296
 10.936             =   10   =        9.144
 16.404             =   15   =       13.716
 21.873             =   20   =       18.288
 27.341             =   25   =       22.860
 32.809             =   30   =       27.432
 38.277             =   35   =       32.004
 43.745             =   40   =       36.576
 49.213             =   45   =       41.148
 54.682             =   50   =       45.720
 60.150             =   55   =       50.292
 65.618             =   60   =       54.864
 71.086             =   65   =       59.436
 76.554             =   70   =       64.008
 82.022             =   75   =       68.580
 87.491             =   80   =       73.152
 92.959             =   85   =       77.724
 98.427             =   90   =       82.296
103.895             =   95   =       86.868
109.363             =  100   =       91.44
218.727             =  200   =      182.88
328.090             =  300   =      274.32
437.453             =  400   =      365.76
546.816             =  500   =      457.20
                                                         323
Measures and weights
Conversion table – millimetres to inches
mm   inches                 mm     inches
 1 = 0.03937                 31 =  1.22047
 2 = 0.07874                 32 =  1.25984
 3 = 0.11811                 33 =  1.29921
 4 = 0.15748                 34 =  1.33858
 5 = 0.19685                 35 =  1.37795
 6 = 0.23622                 36 =  1.41732
 7 = 0.27559                 37 =  1.45669
 8 = 0.31496                 38 =  1.49606
 9 = 0.35433                 39 =  1.53543
10 = 0.39370                 40 =  1.57480
11 = 0.43307                 41 =  1.61417
12 = 0.47244                 42 =  1.65354
13 = 0.51181                 43 =  1.69291
14 = 0.55118                 44 =  1.73228
15 = 0.59055                 45 =  1.77165
16 = 0.62992                 46 =  1.81102
17 = 0.66929                 47 =  1.85039
18 = 0.70866                 48 =  1.88976
19 = 0.74803                 49 =  1.92913
20 = 0.78740                 50 =  1.96850
21 = 0.82677                 55 =  2.16535
22 = 0.86614                 60 =  2.36220
23 = 0.90551                 65 =  2.55905
24 = 0.94488                 70 =  2.75590
25 = 0.98425                 75 =  2.95275
26 = 1.02362                 80 =  3.14960
27 = 1.06299                 85 =  3.34645
28 = 1.10236                 90 =  3.54330
29 = 1.14173                 95 =  3.74015
30 = 1.18110                100 =  3.93700
324
                                               Measures and weights
Conversion table – millimetres to inches and leather substance in
ounces
Inch                     mm         Inch                     mm
vulgar Decimal                      vulgar Decimal
fraction fraction Ounces            fraction fraction Ounces
  1/64   0.016     1     0.397      33/64    0.516    33     13.097
  1/32   0.031     2     0.794      17/32    0.531    34     13.494
  3/64   0.047     3     1.191      35/64    0.547    35     13.890
  1/16   0.063     4     1.587        9/16   0.563    36     14.287
  5/64   0.078     5     1.984      37/64    0.578    37     14.684
  3/32   0.094     6     2.381      19/32    0.594    38     15.081
  7/64   0.109     7     2.778      39/64    0.609    39     15.478
  1/8    0.125     8     3.175        5/8    0.625    40     15.875
  9/64   0.141     9     3.572      41/64    0.641    41     16.272
  5/32   0.156    10     3.969      21/32    0.656    42     16.669
11/64    0.172    11     4.366      43/64    0.672    43     17.066
  3/16   0.188    12     4.723      11/16    0.688    44     17.462
13/64    0.203    13     5.159      45/64    0.703    45     17.859
  7/32   0.219    14     5.556      23/64    0.719    46     18.256
15/64    0.234    15     5.953      47/64    0.734    47     18.653
  1/4    0.250    16     6.350        3/4    0.750    48     19.050
17/64    0.266    17     6.747      49/64    0.766    49     19.447
  9/32   0.281    18     7.144      25/32    0.781    50     19.844
19/64    0.297    19     7.541      51/64    0.797    51     20.241
  5/16   0.313    20     7.937      13/16    0.813    52     20.638
21/64    0.328    21     8.334      53/64    0.828    53     21.034
11/32    0.344    22     8.731      27/32    0.844    54     21.431
23/64    0.359    23     9.128      55/64    0.859    55     21.828
  3/8    0.375    24     9.525        7/8    0.875    56     22.225
25/64    0.391    25     9.922      57/64    0.891    57     22.622
13/32    0.406    26     10.319     29/32    0.906    58     23.018
27/64    0.422    27     10.716     59/64    0.922    59     23.416
  7/16   0.438    28     11.112     15/16    0.938    60     23.812
29/64    0.453    29     11.509     61/64    0.953    61     24.209
15/32    0.469    30     11.906     31/32    0.969    62     24.606
31/64    0.484    31     12.303     63/64    0.984    63     25.003
  1/2    0.500    32     12.700       1      1.000    64     25.400
                                                                325
Measures and weights
Units of area
Metric units of area
  square kilometre (km2)
1                           = 100 hectares (ha) = 10 000 ares (a)
                                  ares (a) = 10 000 square metres (m2)
1 hectare (ha)              = 100
  square metre (m2)               square decimetres (dm2)
                            = 100
1
  square decimetre (dm2)          square centimetres (cm2)
                            = 100
1
  square centimetre (cm2)         square millimetres (mm2)
                            = 100
1
Other units of area
                              2256.738255 km2
1 German square mile        =
                              2553.1668 m2
1 Morgen                    =
                              2638.2917 m2
1 Viertel                   =
                              2220.0985 m2
1 Quadratfuß                =
British and US units of area
                           6.452 cm2
1 square inch (sq.in)    =
                             929 cm2          = 9.29 dm2
1 square foot (sq.ft.)   =
                           8361 cm2           = 83.61 dm2
1 square yard (sq.yd.)   =
                           4047 m2
1 acre (A)               =
                           2.588 km2
1 square mile            =
Conversion factors for units of area
                  sq.      sq.       sq.
                                                       cm2        m2
                  inch     foot      yard       acre
1 square inch     1        –         –          –      6.452      –
1 square foot     144      1         0.1111     –      929        0.0929
1 square yard     1296     9         1          –      8361       0.8361
1 acre            –        43560     4840       1      –          4047
  cm2             0.155    –         –          –      1          0.0001
1
  m2
1                 1550     10.76     1.196      –      10000      1
326
                                           Measures and weights
Conversion table – square metres to square feet
Conversion factor: 1 m2 = 10.764 sq. ft.
m2                       m2                     m2
       sq. ft.                  sq. ft.                   sq. ft.
0.01 = 0.108             0.37 = 3.982           0.73 =    7.858
0.02 = 0.215             0.38 = 4.090           0.74 =    7.965
0.03 = 0.323             0.39 = 4.197           0.75 =    8.073
0.04 = 0.430             0.40 = 4.306           0.76 =    8.181
0.05 = 0.538             0.41 = 4.414           0.77 =    8.288
0.06 = 0.646             0.42 = 4.521           0.78 =    8.396
0.07 = 0.753             0.43 = 4.629           0.79 =    8.503
0.08 = 0.861             0.44 = 4.736           0.80 =    8.611
0.09 = 0.968             0.45 = 4.844           0.81 =    8.719
0.10 = 1.076             0.46 = 4.952           0.82 =    8.826
0.11 = 1.184             0.47 = 5.059           0.83 =    8.934
0.12 = 1.291             0.48 = 5.167           0.84 =    9.041
0.13 = 1.399             0.49 = 5.274           0.85 =    9.149
0.14 = 1.509             0.50 = 5.382           0.86 =    9.257
0.15 = 1.614             0.51 = 5.490           0.87 =    9.364
0.16 = 1.722             0.52 = 5.597           0.88 =    9.472
0.17 = 1.829             0.53 = 5.705           0.89 =    9.579
0.18 = 1.937             0.54 = 5.812           0.90 =    9.688
0.19 = 2.044             0.55 = 5.920           0.91 =    9.796
0.20 = 2.153             0.56 = 6.028           0.92 =    9.903
0.21 = 2.261             0.57 = 6.135           0.93 =   10.011
0.22 = 2.368             0.58 = 6.243           0.94 =   10.118
0.23 = 2.467             0.59 = 6.350           0.95 =   10.226
0.24 = 2.583             0.60 = 6.459           0.96 =   10.334
0.25 = 2.691             0.61 = 6.567           0.97 =   10.441
0.26 = 2.799             0.62 = 6.674           0.98 =   10.549
0.27 = 2.906             0.63 = 6.782           0.99 =   10.656
0.28 = 3.014             0.64 = 6.889           1.00 =   10.764
0.29 = 3.121             0.65 = 6.997           2.00 =   21.529
0.30 = 3.229             0.66 = 7.105           5.00 =   53.821
0.31 = 3.337             0.67 = 7.212         10.00  =  107.643
0.32 = 3.444             0.68 = 7.320         20.00  =  215.285
0.33 = 3.552             0.69 = 7.427         30.00  =  322.928
0.34 = 3.659             0.70 = 7.535         40.00  =  430.571
0.35 = 3.767             0.71 = 7.643         50.00  =  538.213
0.36 = 3.875             0.72 = 7.750        100.00  = 1076.426
                                                                 327
Measures and weights
Conversion table – square feet to square metres
Conversion factor: 1 sq. ft. = 0.0929 m2
sq. ft. m2                 sq. ft. m2                  m2
                                              sq. ft.
1⁄ 8 =  0.0116             33 =    3.0657     69  =    6.4101
1⁄ 4 =  0.0219             34 =    3.1586     70  =    6.5030
1⁄ 2 =  0.0464             35 =    3.2515     71  =    6.5959
3⁄ 4 =  0.0696             36 =    3.3444     72  =    6.6888
  1=    0.0929             37 =    3.4373     73  =    6.7817
  2=    0.1858             38 =    3.5302     74  =    6.8746
  3=    0.2787             39 =    3.6231     75  =    6.9675
  4=    0.3716             40 =    3.7160     76  =    7.0604
  5=    0.4645             41 =    3.8039     77  =    7.1533
  6=    0.5574             42 =    3.9018     78  =    7.2462
  7=    0.6503             43 =    3.9947     79  =    7.3391
  8=    0.7432             44 =    4.0876     80  =    7.4320
  9=    0.8361             45 =    4.1805     81  =    7.5249
10 =    0.9290             46 =    4.2734     82  =    7.6178
11 =    1.0219             47 =    4.3663     83  =    7.7107
12 =    1.1148             48 =    4.4592     84  =    7.8036
13 =    1.2077             49 =    4.5521     85  =    7.8965
14 =    1.3006             50 =    4.6450     86  =    7.9894
15 =    1.3935             51 =    4.7379     87  =    8.0823
16 =    1.4864             52 =    4.8308     88  =    8.1752
17 =    1.5793             53 =    4.9237     89  =    8.2681
18 =    1.6722             54 =    5.0166     90  =    8.3610
19 =    1.7651             55 =    5.1095     91  =    8.4539
20 =    1.8580             56 =    5.2024     92  =    8.5468
21 =    1.9509             57 =    5.2953     93  =    8.6397
22 =    2.0438             58 =    5.3882     94  =    8.7326
23 =    2.1367             59 =    5.4811     95  =    8.8255
24 =    2.2296             60 =    5.5740     96  =    8.9184
25 =    2.3225             61 =    5.6669     97  =    9.0113
26 =    2.4154             62 =    5.7598     98  =    9.1042
27 =    2.5083             63 =    5.8527     99  =    9.1971
28 =    2.6012             64 =    5.9456    100  =    9.2903
29 =    2.6941             65 =    6.0385    200  =   18.5806
30 =    2.7870             66 =    6.1314    300  =   27.8709
31 =    2.8799             67 =    6.2243    400  =   37.1612
32 =    2.9728             68 =    6.3172    500  =   46.4515
328
                                                   Measures and weights
Units of volume
Metric units of volume and capacity
1 cubic metre (m3)        = 1000 cubic decimetres (dm3)
1 cubic decimetre (dm3)   = 1000 cubic centimetres (cm3)
1 cubic centimentre (cm3) = 1000 cubic millimetres (mm3)
                          = 1 cubic decimetre (dm 3)
1 litre ( l )
1 hecto litre (hl)        = 100 litres ( l ) = 1000 decilitres (dl)
1 litre ( l )             = 10 decilitres (dl) = 1000 millilitres (ml)
1 decilitre (dl)          = 100 millilitres (ml)
Conversion factors for units of volume and capacity
                                                             cm3       dm3
                   cubic  cubic       cubic       gallon
                   inch   foot        yard        (US)                 (l)
1 cubic inch       1      –           –           –          16.39     0.0164
1 cubic foot       1728   1           0.0369      7.481      –         28.32
1 cubic yard       46656  27          1           202        –         746.6
1 gallon (US)      231    0.1337      –           1          3785      3.785
  cm3              0.061  –           –           –          1         0.001
1
  dm3
1                  61.02  0.035       –           0.2642     1000      1
                                                                           329
Measures and weights
British and US units of volume and capacity
1 cubic yard (yd3 or cu.yd.)                   0.764553 m3 = 764.6 dm3 ( l )
                                           =
1 cubic foot (ft3 or cu.ft.)                  28.317 dm3
                                           =
1 cubic inch (in3 or cu.in.)                  16.387 cm3
                                           =
1 liquid quarter (liq.quarter) Brit.       = 289.5 l
1 liquid quarter (liq.quarter) US          = 281.92 l
1 quart (qt) Brit.           =   2 pints   =   1.136 l
1 quart (qt) US              =   2 pints   =   0.946 l
1 pint (pt) Brit.            =   4 gills   =   0.568 l
1 pint (pt) US               =   4 gills   =   0.473 l
                             = 142 cm3     =   0.568 l
1 gill (Brit.)
                             = 118 cm3     =   0.473 l
1 gill (US)
1 gallon (Brit.)             =   8 pints   =   4.5461 l
1 gallon (US liquid)                       =   3.7852 l
1 gallon (grain) US                        =   4.4046 l
1 bushel (bu) US                           =  35.242 l
1 bushel (bu) Brit.          =   8 gallons =  36.368 l
1 barrel (Brit.)             = 36 gallons =    1.635 hl
1 barrel (Petrol) US         = 42 gallons =    1.5898 hl
1 barrel (Beer) US           = 31 gallons =    1.173 hl
                                               2.832 m3 = 2832 l
1 register ton               = 100 cu. ft. =
330
                                               Measures and weights
Conversion table – litres and gallons (Brit. and US)
gallons    litres                    gallons      litres
(Brit.)                              (US)
         gallons        litres                   gallons       litres
          (Brit.)                                  (US)
0.2200  =     1   =   4.5461         0.2642    =     1   =   3.7852
0.4399  =     2   =   9.0922         0.5283    =     2   =   7.5704
0.6599  =     3   =  13.6383         0.7925    =     3   =  11.3556
0.8799  =     4   =  18.1844         1.0567    =     4   =  15.1408
1.0998  =     5   =  22.7305         1.3209    =     5   =  18.9260
1.3198  =     6   =  27.2766         1.5850    =     6   =  22.7112
1.5398  =     7   =  31.8227         1.8492    =     7   =  26.4964
1.7598  =     8   =  36.3688         2.1134    =     8   =  30.2816
1.9797  =     9   =  40.9149         2.3776    =     9   =  34.0668
2.1997  =    10   =  45.4610         2.6419    =    10   =  37.8520
2.4197  =    11   =  50.0071         2.9060    =    11   =  41.6372
2.6396  =    12   =  54.5532         3.1702    =    12   =  45.4224
2.8596  =    13   =  59.0993         3.4344    =    13   =  49.2076
3.0796  =    14   =  63.6454         3.6986    =    14   =  52.9928
3.2995  =    15   =  68.1915         3.9628    =    15   =  56.7780
3.5195  =    16   =  72.7376         4.2269    =    16   =  60.5632
3.7395  =    17   =  77.2837         4.4911    =    17   =  64.3484
3.9594  =    18   =  81.8298         4.7553    =    18   =  68.1336
4.1794  =    19   =  86.3759         5.0195    =    19   =  71.9188
4.3994  =    20   =  90.9220         5.2837    =    20   =  75.7040
4.6194  =    21   =  95.4681         5.5479    =    21   =  79.4892
4.8394  =    22   = 100.0142         5.8121    =    22   =  83.2744
5.0593  =    23   = 104.5603         6.0763    =    23   =  87.0596
5.2793  =    24   = 109.1064         6.3405    =    24   =  90.8448
5.4993  =    25   = 113.6525         6.6047    =    25   =  94.6300
5.7192  =    26   = 118.1986         6.8689    =    26   =  98.4152
5.9392  =    27   = 122.7447         7.1331    =    27   = 102.2004
6.1592  =    28   = 127.2908         7.3973    =    28   = 105.9856
6.3791  =    29   = 131.8369         7.6615    =    29   = 109.7708
6.5991  =    30   = 136.3830         7.9256    =    30   = 113.5560
                                                                     331
Measures and weights
gallons    litres              gallons   litres
(Brit.)                        (US)
         gallons        litres          gallons       litres
          (Brit.)                         (US)
 6.8191 =    31   = 140.9291    8.1898 =   31   = 117.3412
 7.0391 =    32   = 145.4752    8.4540 =   32   = 121.1264
 7.2591 =    33   = 150.0213    8.7182 =   33   = 124.9116
 7.4790 =    34   = 154.5674    8.9824 =   34   = 128.6968
 7.6990 =    35   = 159.1135    9.2466 =   35   = 132.4820
 7.9190 =    36   = 163.6596    9.5108 =   36   = 136.2672
 8.1389 =    37   = 168.2057    9.7750 =   37   = 140.0524
 8.3589 =    38   = 172.7518   10.0392 =   38   = 143.8376
 8.5789 =    39   = 177.2979   10.3034 =   39   = 147.6228
 8.7988 =    40   = 181.8440   10.5674 =   40   = 151.4080
 9.0188 =    41   = 186.3901   10.8316 =   41   = 155.1932
 9.2388 =    42   = 190.9362   11.0958 =   42   = 158.9784
 9.4587 =    43   = 195.4823   11.3600 =   43   = 162.7636
 9.6787 =    44   = 200.0284   11.6242 =   44   = 166.5488
 9.8986 =    45   = 204.5745   11.8884 =   45   = 170.3340
10.1186 =    46   = 209.1206   12.1526 =   46   = 174.1192
10.3385 =    47   = 213.6667   12.4168 =   47   = 177.9044
10.5585 =    48   = 218.2128   12.6810 =   48   = 181.6896
10.7784 =    49   = 222.7589   12.9452 =   49   = 185.4748
10.9984 =    50   = 227.3050   13.2093 =   50   = 189.2600
12.0982 =    55   = 250.0355   14.5302 =   55   = 208.1860
13.1980 =    60   = 272.7660   15.8511 =   60   = 227.1120
14.2978 =    65   = 295.4965   17.1720 =   65   = 246.0380
15.3976 =    70   = 318.2270   18.4929 =   70   = 264.9640
16.4974 =    75   = 340.9575   19.8138 =   75   = 283.8900
17.5972 =    80   = 363.6880   21.1347 =   80   = 302.8160
18.6970 =    85   = 386.4185   22.4556 =   85   = 321.7420
19.7968 =    90   = 409.1490   23.7765 =   90   = 340.6680
20.8966 =    95   = 431.8795   25.0974 =   95   = 359.5940
21.9969 =  100    = 454.6100   26.4188 =  100   = 378.5200
332
                                                   Measures and weights
Units of weight
Metric units of weights
SI base unit = kilogram (kg)
1 tonne (t)                = 1000 kilograms (kg)
1 kilogram (kg)            = 1000 grams (g)
1 gram (g)                 = 1000 milligrams (mg)
1 carat (metric) (k)       = 0.2 gram (g) = 200 milligrams (mg)
British and US units of weight
1 grain (gr)               = 64.8 mg
1 carat (for jewels) (ct)  = 4 grains      = 205.3 mg
1 ounce (oz)               = 28.35 g
1 libre (lb)               = 1 pound       = 16 ounces    = 453.6 g
1 pound (lb)               = 1 libre       = 16 ounces    = 453.6 g
1 stone                    = 6.350 kg
1 quarter                  = 12.7 kg
1 short ton (ship tonnage) (shtn.)         = 2000 pounds = 907.185 kg
1 long ton (ltn.)          = 80 quarters   = 1016 kg
Conversion factors for units of weight
                     lbs           shtn.        ltn.         kg
1 pound              1             –            –            0.454
1 short ton          2000          1            0.8929       907.9
1 long ton           2240          1.120        1            1016
1 kg                 2.205         0.0011       0.00098      1
                                                                    333
Measures and weights
Conversion table – kilograms (kg) and pounds (lbs)
Pounds    kilograms (kg)            Pounds     kilograms (kg)
(lbs)    Pounds (lbs)     kg        (Ibs)    Pounds (lbs)     kg
  2.2046 =    1  =     0.453         68.3436  =   31  =  14.047
  4.4093 =    2  =     0.906         70.5482  =   32  =  14.500
  6.6139 =    3  =     1.359         72.7528  =   33  =  14.953
  8.8185 =    4  =     1.812         74.9574  =   34  =  15.406
11.0232  =    5  =     2.265         77.1620  =   35  =  15.859
13.2278  =    6  =     2.719         79.3666  =   36  =  16.312
15.4324  =    7  =     3.172         81.5712  =   37  =  16.765
17.6371  =    8  =     3.625         83.7758  =   38  =  17.218
19.8417  =    9  =     4.078         85.9804  =   39  =  17.671
22.0463  =   10  =     4.531         88.1854  =   40  =  18.125
24.2510  =   11  =     4.984         90.3896  =   41  =  18.578
26.4556  =   12  =     5.437         92.5942  =   42  =  19.031
28.6602  =   13  =     5.890         94.7988  =   43  =  19.484
30.8649  =   14  =     6.343         97.0034  =   44  =  19.937
33.0695  =   15  =     6.796         99.2080  =   45  =  20.390
35.2741  =   16  =     7.249       101.4126   =   46  =  20.843
37.4788  =   17  =     7.702       103.6172   =   47  =  21.296
39.6835  =   18  =     8.155       105.8218   =   48  =  21.749
41.8880  =   19  =     8.608       108.0264   =   49  =  22.202
44.0927  =   20  =     9.062       110.2317   =   50  =  22.656
46.2973  =   21  =     9.515       121.2542   =   55  =  24.921
48.5019  =   22  =     9.968       132.2780   =   60  =  27.187
50.7065  =   23  =   10.421        143.3012   =   65  =  29.452
52.9111  =   24  =   10.874        154.3244   =   70  =  31.719
55.1157  =   25  =   11.327        165.3476   =   75  =  33.984
57.3203  =   26  =   11.780        176.3707   =   80  =  36.250
59.5249  =   27  =   12.233        187.3939   =   85  =  38.515
61.7295  =   28  =   12.686        198.4171   =   90  =  40.781
63.9341  =   29  =   13.139        209.4403   =   95  =  43.046
66.1390  =   30  =   13.594        220.4634   =  100  =  45.302
334
                                            Measures and weights
Conversion table – grams (g) and ounces (oz)
Grams    ounces (oz) ounces        Grams     kilograms (kg)
(g)     Grams (g)       (oz)       (g)      Pounds (Ibs)    kg
  28.35  =   1    =  0.0353          878.8    =   31 =   1.093
  56.70  =   2    =  0.0706          907.2    =   32 =   1.129
  85.05  =   3    =  0.1058          935.5    =   33 =   1.164
113.40   =   4    =  0.1411          963.9    =   34 =   1.199
141.74   =   5    =  0.1764          992.2    =   35 =   1.235
170.10   =   6    =  0.2116        1020.6     =   36 =   1.270
198.45   =   7    =  0.2469        1048.9     =   37 =   1.305
226.80   =   8    =  0.2822        1077.3     =   38 =   1.340
255.15   =   9    =  0.3174        1105.6     =   39 =   1.376
283.50   =   10   =  0.3527        1134.0     =   40 =   1.411
311.8    =   11   =  0.3880        1162.3     =   41 =   1.446
340.2    =   12   =  0.4232        1190.7     =   42 =   1.481
368.5    =   13   =  0.4585        1219.0     =   43 =   1.517
396.9    =   14   =  0.4938        1247.4     =   44 =   1.552
425.2    =   15   =  0.5291        1275.7     =   45 =   1.587
453.6    =   16   =  0.5642        1304.1     =   46 =   1.623
481.9    =   17   =  0.5997        1332.4     =   47 =   1.658
510.3    =   18   =  0.6349        1360.8     =   48 =   1.693
538.6    =   19   =  0.6702        1389.1     =   49 =   1.728
567.0    =   20   =  0.7054        1417.5     =   50 =   1.764
595.3    =   21   =  0.7407        1559       =   55 =   1.940
623.7    =   22   =  0.7760        1701       =   60 =   2.116
652.0    =   23   =  0.8113        1843       =   65 =   2.293
680.4    =   24   =  0.8465        1985       =   70 =   2.469
708.7    =   25   =  0.8818        2126       =   75 =   2.645
737.1    =   26   =  0.9171        2268       =   80 =   2.822
765.4    =   27   =  0.9523        2410       =   85 =   2.998
793.8    =   28   =  0.9876        2552       =   90 =   3.175
822.1    =   29   =  1.0229        2693       =   95 =   3.351
850.5    =   30   =  1.0581        2835       =  100 =   3.527
                                                               335
Measures and weights
Conversion tables – Imp./US units and SI units
                          Imp./US
  SI                                            Imp./US                           SI
                          unit
  unit                                          unit                              unit
Force
            kg · m                                                 kg · m
                     = 2.248 · 10-1 lbf
  1N=1                                        1 lbf = 4.448 =                = 4.448 N
                2
                                                                      s2
              s
Pressure
                                                 lbf
              N                      lbf                                            3
                   = 1.450 · 10-4 2           1     2 = 1 psi = 6.89475 · 10 Pa
  1 Pa = 1
             m2                                  in
                                     in
                                                                 = 6.89475 · 10-2 bar
                   = 2.953 · 10-4 in Hg
                   = 4.015 · 10-3 in H2O
                                                1 in Hg = 3.38638 · 103 Pa
                                       lbf                    = 3.38638 · 10-2 bar
   1 bar = 105 Pa = 1.450 · 101
                                       in2      1 in H2O = 2.49089 · 102 Pa
                   = 2.953 · 101 in Hg                        = 2.49089 · 10-3 bar
                   = 4.015 · 102 in H2O
Mechanical stress
                               2 lbf                 lbf                          N
         N                                                                  -3
      1     2 = 1.450 · 10                       1      2 = 6.89475 · 10
                                 in2                                           mm2
                                                     in
        mm
Dynamic viscosity
                                                   lbf ·s
              N ·s                     lbf ·s
                     = 2.089 · 102 2                                        1
 1 Pa · s = 1                                    1      2 = 4.78802 · 10 Pa · s
                  2
                                                     ft
               m                        ft
     kg                   lb                          lb
          = 6.72 · 10-1
 1                                               1          = 1.488 Pa · s
    m ·s                 ft ·s                      ft ·s
Kinematic viscosity
         m2                                             ft2
                                  ft2                                           2
                                                                         -2 m
              = 1.076 · 101
       1                                            1        = 9.29 · 10
          s                                              s
                                   s                                          s
336
                                                       Measures and weights
                       Imp./US
  SI                                       Imp./US                      SI
                       unit
  unit                                     unit                         unit
Energy, work, quantity of heat
1 J = 1Ws = 1Nm = 7.376 · 10-1 ft lbf            1 ft lbf = 1.35582 J
                    = 9.478 · 10-1 Btu           1 Btu = 1.05506 kJ
1 kJ
Power, heat flow
                                              ft lbf
           Nm                     ft lbf
                 = 7.367 · 10-1
  1W=1                                    1           = 1.35582 W
                                                 s
             s                       s
                                              ft lbf
            J                     ft lbf
                 = 4.42 · 101                         = 2.25969 · 10-2 W
        =1                                1
                                               min
            s                      min
                                               Btu
                           Btu
                                                      = 2.930 · 10-1 W
                 = 3.412                  1
                                                 h
                            h
Specific thermal capacity
         J                      Btu              Btu                     J
              = 2.388 · 10-4                            = 4.1868 · 103
      1                                      1
                               Ib °F            lb °F
        kg K                                                           kg K
                                Btu                                    J
         J                                       Btu
              = 1.491 · 10-5 3                          = 6.71 · 104 3
      1                                      1
                               ft °F            ft3 °F
        m3 K                                                         m K
Thermal conductivity
        W               Btu in               Btu in                     W
                                                        = 1.442 · 10-1
     1       = 6.933 2                   1
                       ft h °F              ft2 h °F
        mK                                                             mK
                                Btu            Btu                   W
             = 5.778 · 10-1              1              = 1.7307
                              ft h °F        ft h °F                mK
                                               Btu                        W
                                Btu
                                                        = 2.07689 · 101
             = 4.815 · 10-2              1
                                            in h °F
                             in h °F                                     mK
                                                                             337
Measures and weights
                        Imp./US
   SI                                 Imp./US                        SI
                        unit
   unit                               unit                           unit
 Heat flow rate
                                             Btu
         W                      Btu                             W
                         -1
       1   2 = 3.17 · 10                1           = 3.1546
                               ft2 h        ft2 h               m2
         m
                                Btu                                    W
                                             Btu
             = 2.201 · 10-3                         = 4.54263 · 102 2
                                        1
                               in2 h           2
                                                                      m
                                            in h
 Coefficient of heat transfer
         W                      Btu              Btu                 W
             = 1.761 · 10-1 2
      1                                   1             = 5.678 2
                              ft h °F         ft2 h °F
        m 2K                                                       m K
 Heat transfer resistance
                          ft2 h °F       ft2 h °F
         m2 K                                                          2
                                                                  -1 m K
       1       = 5.678                1              = 1.761 · 10
           W                Btu            Btu                        W
 Temperature interval
         1 K = 1 °C = 1.8 °F               1 °F = 5.555 · 10-1 K
                                                   = 5.555 · 10-1 °C
lbf = pound-force
Btu = British thermal unit
 lbf = pound-force per square inch
 in2
338
                                             Measures and weights
Formulae
Determination of some areas and perimeters
                          Perimeter                 Area
                                                    s2
1. Square                 4s
2. Rectangle              2 (g + h)                 g·h
                                                      g·h
3. Triangle               sum of all sides
                                                       2
                                                    G+g
4. Trapezoid              sum of all sides                 ·h
                                                       2
                                                        r2
5. Circle                 2 r
                          or
                                                       d2
                            d
                                                       4
6. Ellipse                  D + d*                         ·D·d
                              2                        4
* Approximate value
                          s  =  length of side
                          g  =  base line
                          G  =  height
                          h  =  large base line
                          r  =  radius
                          D  =  large diameter (axis)
                          d  =  diameter
                             =  3.14
                                                               339
Measures and weights
Determination of some volumes
                                    = a3
1. Cube
2. Prism (right rectangular)        = a·b·h
                                         r2 h
3. Cylinder (drum)                  =
                                    = G·h
4. Pyramid
                                         3
                                         · r2 · h
5. Right cone                       =
                                           3
                                    = 4      r2
6. Sphere
                                       3
                                         d · h (2 D2 + d2)*
7. Drum with curved surfaces        =
                                                 12
* Approximate value
                           a, b = length of side
                           h    = height
                           G    = base area
                           D    = large diameter at center of drum
                           d    = diameter
                           r    = radius
                                = 3.14
340
                                                       Measures and weights
Determination of the volume of a paddle
As a rule, a paddle consists of a hollow semi-cylinder topped by a hollow
prism. In order to determine the volume of a paddle, the volume of the
hollow semi-cylinder has to be figured out and added to that of the hol-
low prism. The volume of the hollow prism is calculated by multiplying the
paddle length x paddle width x height of right rectangular prism. The
height of the prism can be measured from the upper edge of the paddle
to the beginning of the rounding of the paddle. The following formula is
thus obtained:
Vprism = a · b · c
                                                                    c
                                                                 a
                          b
The volume of the hollow semi-cylinder can be calculated from the length
and the width of the paddle with the aid of the factor 3.14 (= ) according
to the following formula:
        r2 h or V                     a · b · b · 3.14
V=                  semi-cylinder =
        2                                     8
By adding the volume of the prism and the volume of the hollow semi-
cylinder, the total volume of the paddle is obtained. Thus
Vpaddle = Vprism + Vsemi-cylinder
                        a · b · b · 3.14
Vpaddle = a · b · c +
                                 8
                                                                        341
Measures and weights
Example: If on a paddle the length         is a = 1.80 m
             the width                     is b = 1.50 m
             and the height of the right
             rectangular prism             is c = 0.35 m
the volume of the paddle can be calculated according to the formula
given as follows:
Vpaddle = 1.8 · 1.5 · 0.35 + 1.8 · 1.5 · 1.5 · 3.14
                                        8
        = 2,534 m3 or 2534 l
Determination of the volume of a drum
Since the drum is a hollow cylinder, its volume can be more easily deter-
mined. The measures required are only the inner diameter of the drum
and the inner length of the staves. Thus, the formula is as follows:
           · r2 · h or
Vdrum =
Vdrum = d · d · a · 3.14
                  4
                                                                  a
                                              d
Example: If of a drum the inner diameter (d = 3 m) and the inner stave
length (a = 2.9 m) are known, and if these figures are applied to the
above formula, then
Vdrum = 3 · 3 · 2.9 · 3.14 = 20.4885 m3 = m3 i. e. roughly 20.5 m3
                    4
342
                                                     Measures and weights
Since a tanning drum is usually filled only up to the hollow axle, the total
volume of the drum is divided by 2:
                                                         20.5 : 2 = 10.25 m3
                                                   Partial volume of drum
                                                         r (b-s) + s · h
                                                   PV =                  ·l
                                                                2
                                         l         r = radius
            r
                                                   b = arc
                                                   s = chord
                 s
                                                   h = height
                PV
                                                   l = length
   h        b
                                                                            343
Measures and weights
Optimum r. p. m. of processing drums for the appropriate load
volume with non-carrying float lengths
The volume of the load (VL) should not be so large that the diameter of
the load bale (dL) becomes too great.
Otherwise, the revolving speed of the load bale (nL) will drop below the
critical limit when the drum is run at the speed calculated to give the
optimum mixing effect. This deficiency can no longer be corrected by
increasing the r.p.m. of the drum (nD).
                           The conditions are fulfilled by the following function:
                                                                                   VL
                                                            42.4
                                                      nD =        x       2
      nD                                                                          πxh
                                                             dD
                                                      dD = inner diameter of drum in m
                                                      VL = weight of load in 1000 kg
                                                      h = inner width of drum in m
         nL               dD
                                                      π = 3.14
                                                      nD = drum speed (r.p.m.) at which the
                                                           optimum dispersing or mixing effect
                 dL
                                                           is obtained with a specific load weight
                                                      nL = revolving speed of load bale (r.p.m.)
                                                      dL = diameter of load bale formed
                                                           during drumming
 Example: width of drum 3.0 m; diameter of drum 3.0 m; total load 4,0 t
                                 4.0 t
            42.4                         = 16 r.p.m.
                  x    2
                              3.14 x 3,0
             3.0
344
                                                   Measures and weights
Tables for determining the correct nominal diameters of air
pressure reducers and water separators in compressed air
spraying units
Proper dehumidification of the spraying air and maintenance of a con-
stant working pressure can be ensured only when the air flow rate in the
pressure reducer and water separator lies between 10 and 20 m/s, and
the nominal diameters of their connections must therefore be accordingly.
The nominal diameters of the connections can be determined by first
ascertaining the maximum air consumption in m3/h with the aid of the
diagrams A or B, depending on the type of jet used. The required nomi-
nal diameter in inch can then be found in diagram C within the grey dot-
ted zone straight above the abscissa on which the air consumption is
indicated.
Examples:
1. Determination of air consumption using circular jet (diagram A).
   Air pressure: 3.5 bar
   Nozzle orifice: 1.8 mm = air consumption: about 13 m3/h
2. Determination of nominal diameter (diagram C)
   The value straight above 13 m3/h in the dotted grey zone
   representing the flow rate of 10 – 20 m/s is 3/4 inch.
                                                                      345
Measures and weights
Diagramm A
                                             nozzle orifice (mm)
         bar
                         0.5 1.0    1.5    2.0
                                                           2.5
         7.0
         6.0                                                    3.0
         5.0
         4.0
         3.0
         2.0
working 1.0
pressure                                                            m3/h
                2 4 6 8 1012 16 20 24 28            30    32   36
             air consumption with circular jet
Diagramm B
                                             nozzle orifice (mm)
         bar
         7.0
                                    1.0        1.5         2.0
         6.0
                                                                   2.5
         5.0
                                                                   3.0
         4.0
                                                                   3.5
         3.0
         2.0
working 1.0
pressure                                                            m3/h
                2 4 6 8 1012 16 20 24           28  30    32   36
             air consumption with flat jet
346
                                                                Measures and weights
Diagram C
Required nominal diameter of pressure reducers and water
separators
Flow
rate
     m/s                                                      1
                                                      /8" 1" 1 /4" 11/2" 2" 21/2" 3" 4" (inch)
                              1      3       1      3
                                / 4"   / 8"    / 2"
      30
                                                                                           5"
      20
                                                                                           6"
      10
                                                                                           8"
       8
       6                                                                                  10"
       4
       3
       2
       1
     0.8
     0.6
     0.4
     0.3
     0.2
     0.1
                                                                                      m3/h
            0.2 0.5      2      5                20      50         200    500
       0.1           1                    10                 100               1000
        Discharge volume (air consumption)
                                                                                            347
Measures and weights
Conversion table for temperature readings
Conversion of                      sub-  then   then   then
                                   tract multi- divide add
                                         ply by by
°C (Celsius)    to °F (Fahrenheit) –     9      5      32
°C (Celsius)    to °R (Réaumur)    –     4      5      –
°F (Fahrenheit) to °C (Celsius)    32    5      9      –
°F (Fahrenheit) to °R (Réaumur)    32    4      9      –
°R (Réaumur)    to °C (Celsius)    –     5      4      –
°R (Réaumur)    to °F (Fahrenheit) –     9      4      32
Temperature conversion table
°C        °F                       °C     °F
          °C        °F                    °C      °F
– 34.5    – 30      – 22.0         –17.8    0     32.0
– 31.7    – 25       –13.0         –17.2  +1      33.8
– 28.9    – 20        – 4.0        –16.7    2     35.6
– 26.1     –15       + 5.0         –16.1    3     37.4
– 23.3     –10        14.0         –15.6    4     39.2
– 22.7       –9       15.8         –15.0    5     41.0
– 22.2       –8       17.6         –14.4    6     42.8
– 21.6       –7       19.4         –13.9    7     44.6
– 21.1       –6       21.2         –13.3    8     46.4
– 20.5       –5       23.0         –12.8    9     48.2
– 20.0       –4       24.8         –12.2  10      50.0
–19.4        –3       26.6         –11.7  11      51.8
–18.9        –2       28.4         –11.1  12      53.6
–18.3        –1       30.2         –10.6  13      55.2
348
                                    Measures and weights
Temperature conversion table
°C      °F                   °C   °F
        °C       °F               °C      °F
–10.0   14        57.4        8.9 48      118.4
 – 9.5  15        59.0        9.5 49      120.2
 – 8.9  16        60.8       10.0 50      122.0
 – 8.3  17        62.6       10.6 51      123.8
 – 7.8  18        64.4       11.1 52      125.6
 – 7.2  19        66.2       11.7 53      127.4
 – 6.7  20        68.0       12.2 54      129.2
 – 6.1  21        69.8       12.8 55      131.0
 – 5.6  22        71.6       13.3 56      132.8
 – 5.0  23        73.4       13.9 57      134.6
 – 4.5  24        75.2       14.4 58      136.4
 – 3.9  25        77.0       15.0 59      138.2
 – 3.4  26        78.8       15.6 60      140.0
 – 2.8  27        80.6       16.1 61      141.8
 – 2.3  28        82.4       16.7 62      143.6
 –1.7   29        84.2       17.2 63      145.4
 –1.1   30        86.0       17.8 64      147.2
 – 0.6  31        87.8       18.3 65      149.0
 ±0     32        89.6       18.9 66      150.8
   0.6  33        91.4       19.4 67      152.6
   1.1  34        93.2       20.0 68      154.4
   1.7  35        95.0       20.6 69      156.2
   2.3  36        96.8       21.1 70      158.0
   2.8  37        98.6       21.6 71      159.8
   3.4  38      100.4        22.2 72      161.6
   3.9  39      102.2        22.7 73      163.4
   4.5  40      104.0        23.3 74      165.2
   5.0  41      105.8        23.9 75      167.0
   5.6  42      107.6        24.4 76      168.8
   6.1  43      109.4        25.0 77      170.6
   6.7  44      111.2        25.6 78      172.4
   7.2  45      113.0        26.1 79      174.2
   7.8  46      114.8        26.7 80      176.0
   8.3  47      116.6        27.2 81      177.8
                                                     349
Measures and weights
Temperature conversion table
°C      °F                   °C   °F
        °C       °F               °C  °F
27.8     82      179.6       46.7 116 240.8
28.3     83      181.4       47.2 117 242.6
28.9     84      183.2       47.8 118 244.4
29.4     85      185.0       48.3 119 246.2
30.0     86      186.8       48.9 120 248.0
30.6     87      188.6       49.4 121 249.8
31.1     88      190.4       50.0 122 251.6
31.7     89      192.2       50.6 123 253.4
32.2     90      194.0       51.1 124 255.2
32.8     91      195.8       51.7 125 257.0
33.3     92      197.6       52.2 126 258.8
33.9     93      199.4       52.8 127 260.6
34.4     94      201.2       53.3 128 262.4
35.0     95      203.0       53.9 129 264.2
35.6     96      204.8       54.4 130 266.0
36.1     97      206.6       55.0 131 267.8
36.7     98      208.4       55.5 132 269.6
37.2     99      210.2       56.1 133 271.4
37.8    100      212.0       56.6 134 273.2
38.3    101      213.8       57.2 135 275.0
38.9    102      215.6       57.7 136 276.8
39.4    103      217.4       58.3 137 278.6
40.0    104      219.2       58.8 138 280.4
40.6    105      221.0       59.4 139 282.2
41.1    106      222.8       60.0 140 284.0
41.7    107      224.6       60.5 141 285.8
42.2    108      226.4       61.1 142 287.6
42.8    109      228.2       61.6 143 289.4
43.3    110      230.0       62.2 144 291.2
43.9    111      231.8       62.7 145 293.0
44.4    112      233.6       63.3 146 294.8
45.0    113      235.4       63.8 147 296.6
45.6    114      237.2       64.4 148 298.4
46.1    115      239.0       65.0 149 300.2
350
                                     Measures and weights
Temperature conversion table
°C      °F                   °C    °F
        °C       °F                °C      °F
65.5    150      302.0        84.4 184     363.2
66.1    151      303.8        85.0 185     365.0
66.6    152      305.6        85.6 186     366.8
67.2    153      307.4        86.1 187     368.6
67.7    154      309.2        86.7 188     370.4
68.3    155      311.0        87.2 189     372.2
68.8    156      312.8        87.8 190     374.0
69.4    157      314.6        88.3 191     375.8
70.0    158      316.4        88.9 192     377.6
70.5    159      318.2        89.4 193     379.4
71.0    160      320.0        90.0 194     381.2
71.6    161      321.8        90.5 195     383.0
72.2    162      323.6        91.1 196     384.8
72.7    163      325.4        91.6 197     386.6
73.3    164      327.2        92.2 198     388.4
73.8    165      329.0        92.7 199     390.2
74.4    166      330.8        93.3 200     392.0
75.0    167      332.6        93.9 201     393.8
75.5    168      334.4        94.4 202     395.6
76.1    169      336.2        95.0 203     397.4
76.6    170      338.0        95.6 204     399.2
77.2    171      339.8        96.1 205     401.0
77.7    172      341.6        96.7 206     402.8
78.3    173      343.4        97.2 207     404.6
78.8    174      345.2        97.8 208     406.4
79.3    175      347.0        98.3 209     408.2
79.9    176      348.8        98.9 210     410.0
80.5    177      350.6        99.4 211     411.8
81.0    178      352.4       100.0 212     413.6
81.6    179      354.2
82.1    180      356.0
82.7    181      357.8
83.3    182      359.6
83.9    183      361.4
                                                      351
Measures and weights
Conversion table for density and Baumé, barkometer and twaddle
hydrometer readings
 0 °Bé = density of distilled water at 15 °C
10 °Bé = density of a 10 % solution of common salt
66 °Bé = density of concentrated sulfuric acid
                         144.38 (density –1)
degrees Baumé        =
                               density
degrees barkometer = 1000 (density –1)
degrees twaddle      = 200 (density –1)
           Density                                 Density
Baumé Bark. Twaddle g/cm3                 Baumé Bark. Twaddle g/cm3
0.1      0.7    0.14       1.0007          4.0   28.0   5.6   1.0280
0.2      1.4    0.28       1.0014          4.5   31.6   6.3   1.0316
0.3      2.0    0.40       1.0020          5.0   35.3   7.1   1.0353
0.4      2.7    0.54       1.0027          5.5   38.9   7.8   1.0389
0.5      3.4    0.69       1.0034          6.0   42.6   8.6   1.0426
0.6      4.1    0.82       1.0041          6.5   46.3   9.3   1.0463
0.7      4.8    0.96       1.0048          7.0   50.1 10.2    1.0501
0.8      5.5    1.10       1.0055          7.5   53.9 10.8    1.0539
0.9      6.2    1.24       1.0062          8.0   57.6 11.6    1.0576
1.0      6.9    1.38       1.0069          8.5   61.5 12.3    1.0615
1.1      7.6    1.52       1.0076          9.0   65.3 13.1    1.0653
1.2      8.2    1.64       1.0082          9.5   69.2 13.9    1.0692
1.3      8.9    1.78       1.0089         10.0   73.1 14.6    1.0731
1.4      9.6    1.92       1.0096         11     81.0 16.2    1.0810
1.5    10.3     2.06       1.0103         12     89.0 17.8    1.0890
1.6    11.0     2.20       1.0110         13     97.1 19.5    1.0971
1.7    11.7     2.34       1.0117         14    105.4 21.1    1.1054
1.8    12.4     2.48       1.0124         15    113.8 22.8    1.1138
1.9    13.1     2.62       1.0131         16    122.3 24.6    1.1223
2.0    13.8     2.76       1.0138         17    131.0 26.2    1.1310
2.5    17.3     3.46       1.0173         18    139.8 27.9    1.1398
3.0    20.9     4.18       1.0209         19    148.7 29.8    1.1487
3.5    24.4     4.88       1.0244         20    157.8 31.6    1.1578
352
                                 Measures and weights
          Density                    Density
Baumé Bark. Twaddle g/cm3  Baumé Bark. Twaddle g/cm3
21    167.0    33.4 1.1670 48.7  510   102     1.5100
22    176.3    35.3 1.1763 49.4  520   104     1.5200
23    185.8    37.2 1.1858 50.0  530   106     1.5300
24    195.5    39.1 1.1955 50.6  540   108     1.5400
25    205.3    41.1 1.2053 51.2  550   110     1.5500
26    215.3    43.1 1.2153 51.8  560   112     1.5600
27    225.4    45.1 1.2254 52.4  570   114     1.5700
28    235.7    47.2 1.2357 53.0  580   116     1.5800
29    246.2    49.3 1.2462 53.6  590   118     1.5900
30    256.9    51.4 1.2569 54.1  600   120     1.6000
30.6  270      54   1.2700 54.7  610   122     1.6100
31.5  280      56   1.2800 55.2  620   124     1.6200
32.4  290      58   1.2900 55.8  630   126     1.6300
33.3  300      60   1.3000 56.3  640   128     1.6400
34.2  310      62   1.3100 56.9  650   130     1.6500
35.0  320      64   1.3200 57.4  660   132     1.6600
35.8  330      66   1.3300 57.9  670   134     1.6700
36.6  340      68   1.3400 58.4  680   136     1.6800
37.4  350      70   1.3500 58.9  690   138     1.6900
38.2  360      72   1.3600 59.5  700   140     1.7000
39.0  370      74   1.3700 60.0  710   142     1.7100
39.8  380      76   1.3800 60.4  720   144     1.7200
40.5  390      78   1.3900 60.9  730   146     1.7300
41.2  400      80   1.4000 61.4  740   148     1.7400
42.0  410      82   1.4100 61.8  750   150     1.7500
42.7  420      84   1.4200 62.3  760   152     1.7600
43.4  430      86   1.4300 62.8  770   154     1.7700
44.1  440      88   1.4400 63.2  780   156     1.7800
44.8  450      90   1.4500 63.7  790   158     1.7900
45.4  460      92   1.4600 64.2  800   160     1.8000
46.1  470      94   1.4700 64.6  810   162     1.8100
46.8  480      96   1.4800 65.0  820   164     1.8200
47.4  490      98   1.4900 65.5  830   166     1.8300
48.1  500    100    1.5000 65.9  840   168     1.8400
                                                   353
Measures and weights
Rules for mixing
If two solutions of different concentration of one substance have to be
mixed together to give a solution of any desired concentration, the fol-
lowing procedure is adopted to calculate the proportion of each. The
desired concentration is subtracted from the higher concentration to give
the proportion of solution with the lower concentration; and the lower
concentration is subtracted from the desired concentration to give the
proportion of solution with the higher concentration.
Example No. 1
Solutions of 96 % and 75 % concentration are to be mixed together to
give a solution of 80 % concentration.
96 – 80 = 16 parts = proportion of 75 % solution
80 – 75 = 5 parts of 96 % solution
Example No. 2
A solution of 96 % concentration has to be mixed with pure solvent
(0 % concentration) to give a solution of 40 % concentration.
96 – 40 = 56 parts = proportion of solvent
40 – 40 = 40 parts = proportion of 96 solution
Example No. 1                        Example No. 2
96                              5  96                           40
                                                   40
                80
 75                             16   0                           56
                                21                               96
If the concentrations are expressed in percentages by weight, the pro-
portions obtained by the above method represent parts by weight. If the
concentrations are expressed in % vol., the proportions represent parts
by volume.
An analogous procedure can be adopted to prepare solutions of a given
density.
354
                                                      Elements
Symbol, atomic number and atomic weight of elements
Name            Symbol        Atomic number    Atomic weight
Actinium        Ac             89              (227)
Aluminium       Al             13                27.0
Americium       Am             95              (243)
Antimony        Sb             51               121.8
Argon           Ar             18                39.9
Arsenic         As             33                74.9
Astatine        At             85              (210)
Barium          Ba             56               137.3
Berkelium       Bk             97              (247)
Beryllium       Be               4                9.0
Bismuth         Bi             83               209.0
Boron           B                5               10.8
Bromine         Br             35                79.9
Cadmium         Cd             48               112.4
Calcium         Ca             20                40.1
Californium     Cf             98              (251)
Carbon          C                6               12.0
Cerium          Ce             58               140.1
Cesium          Cs             55               132.9
Chlorine        Cl             17                35.5
Chromium        Cr             24                52.0
Cobalt          Co             27                58.9
Copper          Cu             29                63.5
Curium          Cm             96              (247)
Dysprosium      Dy             66               162.5
Einsteinium     Es             99              (254)
Erbium          Er             68               167.3
Europium        Eu             63               152.0
Fermium         Fm            100              (257)
Fluorine        F                9               19.0
Francium        Fr             87              (223)
                                                             355
Elements
Symbol, atomic number and atomic weight of elements
Name            Symbol        Atomic number    Atomic weight
Gadolinium      Gd             64               157.3
Gallium         Ga             31                69.7
Germanium       Ge             32                72.6
Gold            Au             79               197.0
Hafnium         Hf             72               178.5
Helium          He               2                4.0
Holmium         Ho             67               164.9
Hydrogen        H                1                1.0
Indium          In             49               114.8
Iodine          I              53               126.9
Iridium         Ir             77               192.2
Iron            Fe             26                55.8
Krypton         Kr             36                83.8
Lanthanum       La             57               138.9
Lead            Pb             82               207.2
Lithium         Li               3                6.9
Lutetium        Lu             71               175.0
Magnesium       Mg             12                24.3
Manganese       Mn             25                54.9
Mendelevium     Md            101              (258)
Mercury         Hg             80               200.6
Molybdenum      Mo             42                95.9
Neodymium       Nd             60               144.2
Neon            Ne             10                20.2
Neptunium       Np             93              (237)
Nickel          Ni             28                58.7
Niobium         Nb             41                92.9
Nitrogen        N                7               14.0
Nobelium        No            102              (254)
Osmium          Os             76               190.2
Oxygen          O                8               16.0
356
                                                       Elements
Symbol, atomic number and atomic weight of elements
Name            Symbol        Atomic number    Atomic weight
Palladium       Pd             46               106.4
Phosphorus      P              15                 31.0
Platinum        Pt             78               195.1
Plutonium       Pu             94              (244)
Polonium        Po             84              (210)
Potassium       K              19                 39.1
Praseodymium    Pr             59               140.9
Promethium      Pm             61              (145)
Protactinium    Pa             91              (231)
Radium          Ra             88              (226)
Radon           Rn             86              (222)
Rhenium         Re             75               186.2
Rhodium         Rh             45               102.9
Rubidium        Rb             37                 85.5
Ruthenium       Ru             44               101.1
Samarium        Sm             62               150.4
Scandium        Sc             21                 45.0
Selenium        Se             34                 79.0
Silicon         Si             14                 28.1
Silver          Ag             47               107.9
Sodium          Na             11                 23.0
Strontium       Sr             38                 87.6
Sulfur          S              16                 32.1
Tantalum        Ta             73               180.9
Technetium      Tc             43                (99)
Tellurium       Te             52               127.6
Terbium         Tb             65               158.9
Thallium        TI             81               204.4
Thorium         Th             90               232.0
Thulium         Tm             69               168.9
Tin             Sn             50               118.7
Titanium        Ti             22                 47.9
Tungsten        W              74               183.9
Uranium         U              92               238.0
                                                             357
Elements
Symbol, atomic number and atomic weight of elements
Name               Symbol           Atomic number      Atomic weight
Vanadium           V                 23                 50.9
Xenon              Xe                54                131.3
Ytterbium          Yb                70                173.0
Yttrium            Y                 39                 88.9
Zinc               Zn                30                 65.4
Zirconium          Zr                40                 91.2
The atomic weights indicated in brackets are the isotopes of the element
with the greatest half-life period.
358
                                               Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical             Formula            Mole-    Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                                cular
                                        weight   in g
Acetic acid          CH3COOH             60.1    –
Acetone              CH3-CO-CH3          58.1    –
                     AlCl3 · 6H2O       241.4    450 (readily soluble)
Aluminium chloride
Aluminium hydroxide Al(OH)3              78.0    – (practically
                                                 insoluble)
                     Al2O3              102.0    insoluble
Aluminium oxide
Aluminium sulfate    Al2 (SO4)3 · 18H2O 666.4    363 (readily soluble)
Ammonia (gas)        NH3                 17.0    very readily soluble
Ammonia (solution)   NH4OH               35.0    (23 % NH3 content)
Ammonium chloride NH4Cl                  53.5    374 (readily soluble)
Ammonium sulfate     (NH4)2 SO4         132.1    754 (very readily
                                                 soluble)
                     BaCl2 · 2H2O       244.3    357
Barium chloride
                                        233.4    insoluble
Barium sulfate       BaSO4
Borax
(sodium tetraborate) Na2B4O7 · 10H2O    381.4    ~ 20 (readily hot
                                                 soluble)
Boric acid           H3BO3               61.8    49
Calcium carbonate    CaCO3              100.1    insoluble
Calcium chloride     CaCl2              111.0    readily soluble
calc.
                                                                    359
Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical            Formula            Mole-     Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                               cular
                                       weight    in g
Calcium chloride    CaCl2 · 6H2O       219.1     745
cryst.
                                       130.1     soluble
Calcium formate     Ca(HCOO)2
Calcium hydroxide   Ca(OH)2             74.1     1.3 (difficult soluble)
Calcium oxide       CaO                 56.1     with H2O Ca(OH)2
Carbon disulfide    CS2                 76.1     2
Chrome alum         KCr(SO4)2 · 12H2O 499.4      ~ 240
Chromium chloride   CrCl3              158.4     readily soluble
Chromium hydroxide Cr(OH)3             103.0     insoluble
Chromium sulfate    Cr2 (SO4)3 · 18H2O 716.5     1200
Copper sulfate      CuSO4 · 5H2O       249.7     350
Dimethylamine       (CH3)2NH            45.1     readily soluble
Ethyl alcohol       C2H5OH              46.1     –
(ethanol)
Formaldehyde        HCHO                30.0     soluble
                                                 (formaldehyde)
Formic acid         HCOOH               46.0     –
Glucose             C6H12O6            180.2     ~ 850 (readily
                                                 soluble)
                    CHO-(CH2)3-CHO 100.1         soluble
Glutaraldehyde
Glyoxal             C 2H 2O 2           58.0     soluble
360
                                              Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical            Formula           Mole-      Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                              cular
                                      weight     in g
                    C6H12N4           140.2      ~ 820
Hexamethylene
tetramine
Hydrochloric acid   HCl                 36.5     –
                    H 2O 2              34.0     miscible
Hydrogen peroxide
Hydrogen sulfide    H 2S                34.1     considerably soluble
Iron alum           KFe (SO4)2 ·      503.1      soluble
                    12H2O
Iron(III) chloride  Fe Cl3 · 6H2O     270.3      919
Iron(III) sulfate   Fe2 (SO4)3 · 9H2O 562.1      440
Iron(II) sulfate    Fe SO4 · 7H2O     278.1      156.5
Iron(III) oxide     Fe2O3             159.7      insoluble
Iron(II) oxide      FeO                 71.8     insoluble
Lactic acid         CH3-CHOH-COOH       90.1     –
Lead acetate        Pb(OOCCH3)2 ·     379.3      460
                    3H2O
Lead(II) sulfate    PbSO4             303.3      insoluble
Magnesium chloride MgCl2 · 6H2O       203.3      542
Magnesium oxide     MgO                 40.3     soluble in acids
Magnesium sulfate   MgSO4 · 7H2O      246.5      356
Nitric acid         HNO3                63.0     –
                                                                    361
Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical            Formula           Mole-      Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                              cular
                                      weight     in g
                                        90.0     96.4
Oxalic acid         (COOH)2
Phenol              C 6H 6O             94.1     –
Phthalic acid       C 8H 6O 4         166.1      5.7
Potash alum         KAI(SO4)2 · 12H2O 474.4      114
Potassium carbonate K2CO3             138.2      1115
Potassium chloride  KCl                 74.5     344
Potassium           K2Cr2O7           294.2      123
dichromate
Potassium hydroxide KOH                 56.1     1114
Potassium           KMnO4             158.0      64
permanganate
Sodium acetate      NaOOC-CH3 ·       136.1      ~ 800
                    3H2O
                                        84.0     96
Sodium bicarbonate NaHCO3
Sodium dichromate   Na2Cr2O7 · 2H2O   298.0      ~ 2400
Sodium bisulfite    NaHSO3            104.1      very readily soluble
Sodium carbonate    Na2CO3            106.0      readily soluble
calc.
                    Na2CO3 · 10H2O    286.1      216
Sodium carbonate
cryst.
Sodium chloride     NaCl                58.4     359
362
                                              Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical            Formula           Mole-      Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                              cular
                                      weight     in g
                                        90.4     ~ 600
Sodium chlorite     NaClO2
Sodium formate      HCOO Na             68.0     readily soluble
Sodium hexameta-    Na6 (PO3)6        611.1      soluble
phosphate
                    Na2S2O4 · 2H2O    210.2      254
Sodium
hydrosulfite
Sodium hydroxide    NaOH                40.0     1070
Sodium nitrite      NaNO2               69.0     ~ 830
Sodium phosphate    NaH2PO4 · H2O     138.0      1103
(mono)
                    Na2HPO4 · 12H2O 358.2        ~ 700
Sodium phosphate
(di.)
Sodium phosphate    Na3PO4 · 12H2O    380.1      258
(tri)
                    Na2SO4 · 10H2O    322.2      191
Sodium sulfate
(cryst.)
                    Na2SO4            142.1      readily soluble
Sodium sulfate
(powder)
Sodium sulfide      Na2S · 9H2O       240.2      475 (10 °C)
(cryst.)
                    Na2S                78.1     154 (10 °C)
Sodium sulfide
(powder)
Sodium sulfite      Na2SO3            126.0      readily soluble
                                                                    363
Chemical compounds
Molecular weight, formula and solubility in water of some chemical
compounds
Chemical            Formula           Mole-      Solubility/1 litre
                                                 H2O, 20 °C/
compound                              cular
                                      weight     in g
Sodium              NaSH                56.0     readily soluble
sulfhydrate
                    Na2S2O3 · 5H2O    248.2      700
Sodium thiosulfate
Sulfuric acid       H2SO4               98.1     –
Tartaric acid       C 4H 6O 6         150.1      ~ 140
Titanium dioxide    TiO2                79.9     insoluble
Urea                (NH2)2 · CO         60.1     ~ 800
Zinc chloride       ZnCl2             136.3      367
Zinc sulfate        ZnSO4 · 7H2O      287.5      538
Zirconium dioxide   ZrO2              123.1      insoluble
Zirconium sulfate   Zr(SO4)2 · 4H2O   355.4      soluble
364
                                                    Chemical compounds
Production of a certain relative humidity
The salts listed below can produce a certain relative humidity at 20 °C
through their saturated, aqueous solutions, which must still contain solid
salt at the bottom.
Relative      Product
humidity
98 %          Lead nitrate, Pb (NO3)2
97 %          Potassium sulfate, K2SO4
95 %          Sec. sodium phosphate, Na2HPO4 · 12H2O
              Primary ammonium phosphate, NH4H2PO4
93 %
92 %          Cryst. soda, Na2CO3 · 10H2O
              Potassium chromate, K2CrO4
88 %
86 %          Potassium chloride, KCl, or Potassium bisulfate, KHSO4
84 %          Potassium bromide, KBr
              Ammonium sulfate, (NH4)2 SO4
81%
79 %          Ammonium chloride, NH4Cl
              Cryst. sodium acetate, CH3COONa · 3H2O
76 %
75 %          Sodium chloride, NaCl or Sodium chlorate, NaClO3
66 %          Sodium nitrite, NaNO2
65 %          Ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3
58 %          Cryst. sodium bromide, NaBr · 2H2O
              Magnesium nitrate, Mg(NO3)2 · 6H2O
56 %
              Calcium nitrate, Ca(NO3)2
55 %
52 %          Sodium dichromate, Na2Cr2O7 · 2H2O
47 %          Potassium rhodanide, KSCN
              Potassium carbonate, K2CO3 · 2H2O
45 %
              Cryst. zinc nitrate, Zn(NO3)2 · 6H2O
42 %
              Cryst. calcium chloride, CaCl2 · 6H2O
35 %
              Cryst. copper-II-chloride, CuCl2 · 6H2O
31%
              Potassium acetate, CH3COOK
20 %
15 %          Lithium chloride, LiCl · H2O
                                                                       365
Chemical compounds
Definition of mixtures of substances
Dispersion     Heterogeneous mixture of substances in which one phase
               in form of particles is dispersed more or less finely in
               another phase, the dispersing agent = disperse system.
               1. Colloidal disperse system:
               Particle sizes 10-9 ... 5 x 10-7 m.
               a. Sol = colloidal solution.
               b. Gel = gelatinous substance.
               Sols can be converted into gels by coagulation. Some
               gels can be converted into sols by peptisation.
               2. Coarsely disperse system:
               Particle size > 5 x 10-7 m.
Emulsion       Heterogeneous mixture of two or more liquid substances.
Mixture        Substances consisting of two ore more substances pro-
               duced by physical processes (not by chemical reactions).
               1. Homogeneous mixture:
               Mixtures whose constituents are not distinguishable even
               by viewing under a microscope, e. g., true solutions.
               2. Heterogeneous mixture:
               a. Mixture consisting of two or more phases which are
                  separated from one another at least by microscopically
                  distinguishable separating surfaces.
               b. Like heterogeneous mixtures, but one phase is finely
                  dispersed in another phase, the dispersing agent.
Solution       1. True solution:
               Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances.
               Particle size of the dissolved substances <10-9 m.
               2. Colloidal solution:
               Heterogeneous mixture of substances.
               Particle sizes 10-9 ...5 x 10-7 m.
Phase          Homogeneous portion of a heterogeneous mixture.
Suspension     Heterogeneous mixture of solid and liquid substances.
Foam           Heterogeneous mixture of gases and liquids.
366
                                                 Chemical compounds
Terms expressing interaction with water
Moistness         Liquids held or deposited in a solid.
Absorption        The action of a material in taking up water vapour
                  and retaining it throughout its structure.
Adsorption        The adhesion of water vapour to the outer and inner
                  surfaces of a material.
Sorption          The action of a material in taking up water and/or
                  water vapour. Absorption and adsorption may
                  overlap when water vapour is taken up from the air.
Desorption        The action of a material in giving off (usually)
                  absorbed and/or adsorbed water vapour to the
                  surrounding atmosphere.
Moistness         State of equilibrium between moistness content of a
equilibrium       material and relative humidity.
Mass of           Mass of a moist material (including liquids).
moistness
Moistness         Moistness (water) content in relation to mass of
(water) content   moistness.
Moistness ratio   Moistness in relation to dry solids.
Relative change   Difference of moistness of a material after drying or
of moistness      moistening in relation to the mass of moistness at
                  the outset.
Dry solids        Solids in a material free from moistness.
Commercial        Solids content including defined (usually maximum
grades            permissible) moistness according to commercial
                  practice.
Normal moist      State of a solid conditioned under standard climatic
or dry state      conditions to constant mass weight.
Air-dry state     Like normally dry state but strict adherence to condi-
                  tioning under standard climatic conditions to con-
                  stant mass weight is not required.
                                                                     367
368                                                       Density/alkalis
Density and conversion tables
Alkalis
Density and concentration of caustic soda solution (NaOH) 20°/4 °C
% NaOH      g per       Density    ° Bé       lbs per      lbs per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                             cubic foot   gallon
 1             10.10    1.0095       1.4        0.6302     0.0842
 2             20.41    1.0207       2.9        1.274      0.1704
 3             30.95    1.0318       4.5        1.932      0.2583
 4             41.71    1.0428       6.0        2.604      0.3481
 5             52.69    1.0538       7.4        3.280      0.4397
 6             63.89    1.0648       8.8        3.988      0.5332
 7             75.31    1.0758      10.2        4.701      0.6284
 8             86.95    1.0869      11.6        5.428      0.7256
 9             98.81    1.0979      12.9        6.168      0.8246
10           110.9      1.1089      14.2        6.923      0.9254
12          135.7       1.1309      16.8        8.472      1.133
14          161.4       1.1530      19.2      10.08        1.347
16          188.0       1.1751      21.6       11.74       1.569
18          215.5       1.1972      23.9      13.45        1.798
20          243.8       1.2191      26.1      15.22        2.035
22          273.0       1.2411      28.2      17.05        2.279
24          303.1       1.2629      30.2      18.92        2.529
26          334.0       1.2848      32.1      20.85        2.788
28          365.8       1.3064      34.0      22.84        3.053
30          398.4       1.3279      35.8      24.87        3.324
32          431.7       1.3490      37.5      26.95        3.602
34          465.7       1.3696      39.1      29.07        3.886
36          500.4       1.3900      40.7      31.24        4.176
38          535.8       1.4101      42.2      33.45        4.472
40          572.0       1.4300      43.6      35.71        4.773
42          608.7       1.4494      45.0      38.00        5.080
44          646.1       1.4685      46.3      40.34        5.392
46          684.2       1.4873      47.5      42.71        5.709
48          723.1       1.5065      48.8      45.14        6.035
50          762.7       1.5253      49.9      47.61        6.364
                                                                   369
Density/alkalis
Density and concentration of ammonia (NH4OH) aqueous solution
Density     %           g/l      Density    %            g/l
g/cm3                            g/cm3
            NH3         NH3                 NH3          NH3
1.0000       0.00          0.0   0.9428      14.90       141.7
0.9982       0.42          4.2   0.9412      15.37       145.1
0.9964       0.82          8.2   0.9336      15.84       149.4
0.9947       1.21        12.1    0.9389      16.32       153.6
0.9929       1.62        16.1    0.9365      16.80       158.7
0.9912       2.04        19.9    0.9349      17.28      163.3
0.9894       2.46        24.2    0.9333      17.76      167.9
0.9876       2.88        28.3    0.9318      18.24       172.5
0.9859       3.30        32.5    0.9302      18.72       177.1
0.9842       3.73        36.7    0.9287      19.20       181.6
0.9825       4.16        40.8    0.9272      19.68       185.7
0.9807       4.59        44.9    0.9256      20.16       190.1
0.9790       5.02        49.1    0.9241      20.64       194.3
0.9773       5.45        53.2    0.9226      21.12       198.8
0.9756       5.88        57.4    0.9211      21.60      203.1
0.9739       6.31        61.6    0.9195      22.08      207.4
0.9722       6.74        65.8    0.9180      22.56       211.9
0.9705       7.17        70.0    0.9165     23.04       216.2
0.9689       7.61        74.3    0.9150      23.52      220.7
0.9672       8.05        78.5    0.9135      24.01      225.3
0.9655       8.49        82.8    0.9121      24.50      229.8
0.9639       8.93        86.9    0.9106      24.99      234.4
0.9622       9.38        90.4    0.9091      25.48      238.9
0.9605       9.83        94.9    0.9076      25.97      243.2
0.9589      10.28        99.3    0.9061     26.46       247.6
0.9573      10.73       103.5    0.9032     27.44       253.1
0.9556      11.18       107.7    0.9003     28.42       258.7
0.9540      11.64       111.8    0.8974      29.40      264.2
0.9524      12.10       115.9    0.8946      30.38      269.6
0.9508      12.56       120.2    0.8917      31.36      275.9
0.9492      13.02       124.6    0.8889      32.34      281.5
0.9475      13.49       129.1    0.8861      33.32      287.7
0.9459      13.96       133.5    0.8833      34.30      294.5
0.9444      14.43       137.6    0.8805     35.28       301.4
370
                                                                     Density/alkalis
Density and concentration of soda ash (Na2CO3) 20°/4 °C
% Na2CO3 g per               Density      ° Bé            lbs per       lbs per
                             (g/cm3)
             litre                                        cubic foot    gallon
 1              10.09        1.0086        1.2              0.6296       0.0842
 2             20.38         1.0190        2.7              1.272        0.1701
 4             41.59         1.0398        5.6              2.596        0.3471
 6             64.64         1.0606        8.3              3.973        0.5311
 8             86.53         1.0816       10.9              5.402        0.7221
10           110.3           1.1029       13.5              6.885        0.9204
12           134.9           1.1244       16.0              8.423        1.126
14           160.5           1.1463       18.5            10.02          1.339
Density and concentration soda cryst. (Na2CO3·10H2O) 20°/4 °C
% Na2CO3 g per               Density      ° Bé            lbs. per      lbs. per
                             (g/cm3)
10 H2O       litre                                        cubic foot    gallon
 2.7           27.23         1.0086        1.2              1.700        0.2272
 5.4           55.02         1.0190        2.7              3.435        0.4592
10.8         112.3           1.0398        5.6              7.010        0.9370
16.2         171.8           1.0606        8.3            10.72          1.434
21.6         233.6           1.0816       10.9            14.58          1.949
27.0         297.7           1.1029       13.5            18.59          2.485
32.4         364.3           1.1244       16.0            22.74          3.040
37.8         433.3           1.1463       18.5            27.05          3.616
Equivalents of soda ash and soda cryst.
Soda ash [g] Soda cryst. [g] Soda ash [g] Soda cryst. [g] Soda ash [g]  Soda cryst. [g]
 1             2.7           15            40.5            45           121.5
 2             5.4           16            43.2            50           135.0
 3             8.1           17            45.9            55           148.5
 4           10.8            18            48.6            60           162.0
 5           13.5            19            51.3            65           175.5
 6           16.2            20            54.0            70           189.0
 7           18.9            21            56.7            75           202.5
 8           21.6            22            59.4            80           216.0
 9           24.3            23            62.1            85           229.5
10           27.0            24            64.8            90           243.0
11           29.7            25            67.5            95           256.5
12           32.4            30            81.0           100           270.0
13           35.7            35            94.5
14           37.8            40           108.0
                                                                                 371
Density/acids
Acids
Density and concentration of formic acid (HCOOH) 20°/4 °C
% HCOOH g per           Density    ° Bé       lbs per     lbs per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                             cubic foot  gallon
 1            10.02     1.0019       0.3        0.6255     0.0836
 2            20.09     1.0044       0.6        1.254      0.1676
 3            30.21     1.0070       1.0        1.886      0.2521
 4            40.37     1.0093       1.3        2.520      0.3369
 5            50.58     1.0115       1.6        3.157      0.4221
 6            60.85     1.0141       2.0        3.798      0.5078
 7            71.19     1.0170       2.4        4.444      0.5941
 8            81.57     1.0196       2.8        5.092      0.6807
 9            91.99     1.0221       3.1        5.743      0.7677
10          102.5       1.0246       3.5        6.396      0.8551
11          113.0       1.0271       3.8        7.053      0.9429
12          123.6       1.0296       4.2        7.713      1.031
13          134.2       1.0321       4.5        8.376      1.120
14          144.8       1.0345       4.8        9.041      1.209
15          155.6       1.0370       5.2        9.711      1.298
16         166.3        1.0393       5.5      10.38        1.388
17          177.1       1.0417       5.8      11.06        1.478
18          187.9       1.0441       6.1      11.73        1.568
19          198.8       1.0464       6.4      12.41        1.659
20         209.8        1.0488       6.8      13.09        1.750
21         220.8        1.0512       7.1      13.78        1.842
22         231.8        1.0537       7.4      14.47        1.935
23         242.9        1.0561       7.7      15.16        2.027
24         254.0        1.0585       8.0      15.86        2.120
25         265.2        1.0609       8.3      16.56        2.213
26         276.5        1.0633       8.6      17.26        2.307
27         287.7        1.0656       8.9      17.96        2.401
28         299.1        1.0681       9.3      18.67        2.496
29          310.4       1.0705       9.6      19.38        2.591
30         321.9        1.0729       9.9      20.09        2.686
31         333.3        1.0753      10.2      20.81        2.782
32         344.9        1.0777      10.5      21.53        2.878
33         356.4        1.0800      10.7      22.25        2.974
34         368.0        1.0823      11.0      22.97        3.071
372
                                                        Density/acids
Density and concentration of formic acid (HCOOH) 20°/4 °C
% HCOOH g per           Density    ° Bé       lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                             cubic foot  gallon
35         379.6        1.0847      11.3      23.70        3.168
36         391.4        1.0871      11.6      24.43        3.266
37         403.1        1.0895      11.9      25.17        3.364
38          414.9       1.0919      12.2      25.90        3.463
39         426.7        1.0940      12.5      26.64        3.561
40         438.5        1.0963      12.7      27.38        3.660
41         450.6        1.0990      13.1      28.13        3.760
42         462.6        1.1015      13.4      28.88        3.861
43         474.6        1.1038      13.6      29.63        3.961
44         486.7        1.1062      13.9      30.38        4.062
45         498.8        1.1085      14.2      31.14        4.163
46          511.0       1.1108      14.5      31.90        4.264
47         523.1        1.1130      14.7      32.66        4.365
48         535.5        1.1157      15.0      33.43        4.469
49         548.1        1.1185      15.4      34.21        4.574
50         560.4        1.1207      15.6      34.98        4.676
51         572.4        1.1223      15.8      35.73        4.777
52         584.7        1.1244      16.0      36.50        4.879
53         597.3        1.1269      16.3      37.28        4.984
54         609.9        1.1295      16.6      38.08        5.090
55         622.6        1.1320      16.9      38.87        5.196
56         635.2        1.1342      17.2      39.65        5.300
57         647.6        1.1361      17.4      40.43        5.404
58         660.1        1.1381      17.6      41.21        5.509
59         672.7        1.1401      17.8      41.99        5.613
60         685.4        1.1424      18.1      42.79        5.720
61         698.3        1.1448      18.3      43.59        5.828
62          711.3       1.1473      18.6      44.41        5.936
63         724.1        1.1493      18.8      45.20        6.042
64         737.1        1.1517      19.1      46.01        6.151
65         750.3        1.1543      19.4      46.84        6.261
66         763.3        1.1565      19.6      47.65        6.370
67         776.1        1.1584      19.8      48.45        6.477
68         789.1        1.1604      20.0      49.26        6.585
                                                                  373
Density/acids
Density and concentration of formic acid (HCOOH) 20°/4 °C
% HCOOH g per           Density    ° Bé       lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                             cubic foot  gallon
 69         802.3       1.1628      20.3      50.09         6.696
 70         815.9       1.1655      20.6      50.93         6.808
 71         829.1       1.1677      20.8      51.76         6.919
 72         842.5       1.1702      21.1      52.60         7.031
 73         856.1       1.1728      21.4      53.45         7.145
 74         869.6       1.1752      21.6      54.29         7.257
 75         882.7       1.1769      21.8      55.10         7.366
 76         895.7       1.1785      22.0      55.91         7.474
 77         908.7       1.1801      22.1      56.73         7.583
 78         921.8       1.1818      22.3      57.55         7.693
 79         935.1       1.1837      22.5      58.38         7.804
 80         948.8       1.1860      22.7      59.23         7.918
 81         962.0       1.1876      22.9      60.05         8.028
 82         975.5       1.1896      23.1      60.90         8.141
 83         988.9       1.1914      23.3      61.73         8.252
 84       1002          1.1929      23.5      62.55         8.362
 85       1016          1.1953      23.7      63.43         8.479
 86       1030          1.1976      23.9      64.30         8.595
 87       1043          1.1994      24.1      65.14         8.708
 88       1057          1.2012      24.3      65.99         8.821
 89       1070          1.2028      24.5      66.83         8.933
 90       1084          1.2044      24.6      67.67         9.046
 91       1097          1.2059      24.8      68.51         9.158
 92        1111         1.2078      25.0      69.37         9.273
 93       1125          1.2099      25.2      70.24         9.390
 94       1139          1.2117      25.3      71.10         9.505
 95       1153          1.2140      25.6      72.00         9.625
 96       1167          1.2158      25.7      72.86         9.740
 97       1180          1.2170      25.9      73.69         9.851
 98       1194          1.2183      26.0      74.53         9.964
 99       1208          1.2202      26.2      75.41       10.08
100       1221          1.2212      26.3      76.24       10.19
374
                                                          Density/acids
Density and concentration of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) 20°/4 °C
% H2SO4     g per       Density     ° Bé        lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                               cubic foot  gallon
 1             10.05    1.0051        0.7         0.6275     0.0839
 2            20.24     1.0118        1.7         1.263      0.1689
 3            30.55     1.0184        2.6         1.907      0.2550
 4            41.00     1.0250        3.5         2.560      0.3422
 5            51.59     1.0317        4.5         3.220      0.4305
 6            62.31     1.0385        5.4         3.890      0.5200
 7            73.17     1.0453        6.3         4.568      0.6106
 8            84.18     1.0522        7.2         5.255      0.7025
 9            95.32     1.0591        8.1         5.950      0.7955
10          106.6       1.0661        9.0         6.655      0.8897
11           118.0      1.0731        9.9         7.369      0.9851
12          129.6       1.0802      10.8          8.092      1.082
13          141.4       1.0874      11.7          8.825      1.180
14          153.3       1.0947      12.5          9.567      1.279
15          165.3       1.1020      13.4        10.32        1.379
16          177.5       1.1094      14.3        11.08        1.481
17          189.9       1.1168      15.2        11.85        1.584
18          202.4       1.1243      16.0        12.63        1.689
19          215.0       1.1318      16.9        13.42        1.795
20          227.9       1.1394      17.7        14.23        1.902
21          240.9       1.1471      18.6        15.04        2.010
22          254.1       1.1548      19.4        15.86        2.120
23          267.4       1.1626      20.3        16.69        2.231
24          280.9       1.1704      21.1        17.54        2.344
25          294.6       1.1783      21.9        18.39        2.458
26          308.4       1.1862      22.8        19.25        2.574
27          322.4       1.1942      23.6        20.13        2.691
28          336.6       1.2023      24.4        21.02        2.809
29          351.0       1.2104      25.2        21.91        2.929
30          365.6       1.2185      26.0        22.82        3.051
31          380.3       1.2267      26.8        23.74        3.173
32          395.2       1.2349      27.6        24.67        3.298
33          410.3       1.2432      28.4        25.61        3.424
34          425.5       1.2515      29.1        26.56        3.551
                                                                    375
Density/acids
Density and concentration of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) 20°/4 °C
% H2SO4     g per       Density     ° Bé        lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                               cubic foot  gallon
35            441.0     1.2599      29.9        27.53       3.680
36            456.6     1.2684      30.7        28.51       3.811
37            472.5     1.2769      31.4        29.49       3.943
38            488.5     1.2855      32.2        30.49       4.077
39            504.7     1.2941      33.0        31.51       4.212
40            521.1     1.3028      33.7        32.53       4.349
41            537.8     1.3116      34.5        33.57       4.488
42            554.6     1.3205      35.2        34.62       4.628
43            571.6     1.3294      35.9        35.69       4.770
44            588.9     1.3384      36.7        36.76       4.914
45            606.4     1.3476      37.4        37.86       5.061
46            624.2     1.3569      38.1        38.97       5.209
47            642.2     1.3663      38.9        40.00       5.359
48            660.4     1.3758      39.6        41.23       5.511
49            678.8     1.3854      40.3        42.38       5.665
50            697.6     1.3951      41.1        43.55       5.821
51            716.5     1.4049      41.8        44.73       5.979
52            735.7     1.4148      42.5        45.93       6.140
53            755.1     1.4248      43.2        47.14       6.302
54            774.9     1.4350      44.0        48.37       6.467
55            794.9     1.4453      44.7        49.62       6.634
56            815.2     1.4557      45.4        50.89       6.803
57            835.7     1.4662      46.1        52.17       6.974
58            856.5     1.4768      46.8        53.47       7.148
59            877.6     1.4875      47.5        54.79       7.324
60            899.0     1.4983      48.2        56.12       7.502
61            920.6     1.5091      48.9        57.47       7.682
62            942.4     1.5200      49.6        58.83       7.865
63            964.5     1.5310      50.3        60.21       8.049
64            986.9     1.5421      51.0        61.61       8.236
65          1010        1.5533      51.7        63.03       8.426
66         1033         1.5646      52.3        64.46       8.618
67         1056         1.5760      53.0        65.92       8.812
68         1079         1.5874      53.7        67.39       9.008
376
                                                          Density/acids
Density and concentration of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) 20°/4 °C
% H2SO4     g per       Density     ° Bé        lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
            litre                               cubic foot  gallon
 69          1103       1.5989      54.3          68.87       9.207
 70          1127       1.6105      55.0          70.38       9.408
 71          1152       1.6221      55.6          71.90       9.611
 72          1176       1.6338      56.3          73.44       9.817
 73         1201        1.6456      56.9          74.99      10.02
 74         1226        1.6574      57.5          76.57      10.24
 75         1252        1.6692      58.1          78.15      10.45
 76         1278        1.6810      58.7          79.75      10.66
 77         1303        1.6927      59.3          81.37      10.88
 78         1329        1.7043      59.9          82.99      11.09
 79         1355        1.7158      60.5          84.62      11.31
 80         1382        1.7272      61.1          86.26      11.53
 81         1408        1.7383      61.6          87.90      11.75
 82         1434        1.7491      62.1          89.54      11.97
 83         1460        1.7594      62.6          91.16      12.19
 84         1486        1.7693      63.0          92.78      12.40
 85         1512        1.7786      63.5          94.38      12.62
 86         1537        1.7872      63.9          95.95      12.83
 87         1562        1.7951      64.2          97.49      13.03
 88         1586        1.8022      64.5          99.01      13.23
 89         1610        1.8087      64.8        100.5        13.43
 90         1633        1.8144      65.1        101.9        13.63
 91         1656        1.8195      65.3        103.4        13.82
 92         1678        1.8240      65.5        104.8        14.00
 93         1700        1.8279      65.7        106.1        14.19
 94         1721        1.8312      65.8        107.5        14.36
 95         1742        1.8337      65.9        108.7        14.54
 96         1762        1.8355      66.0        110.0        14.70
 97         1781        1.8364      66.0         111.2       14.87
 98         1799        1.8361      66.0        112.3        15.02
 99         1816        1.8342      65.9        113.4        15.15
100         1831        1.8305      65.8        114.3        15.28
                                                                    377
Density/acids
Density and concentration of acetic acid (CH3COOH) 20°/4 °C
%           g per       Density     ° Bé      lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
CH3COOH litre                                 cubic foot  gallon
 1            9.996     0.9996      –           0.6240    0.0834
 2           20.02      1.0012      0.2         1.250     0.1671
 3           30.08      1.0025      0.4         1.877     0.2510
 4           40.16      1.0040      0.6         2.507     0.3351
 5           50.28      1.0055      0.8         3.139     0.4196
 6           60.41      1.0069      1.0         3.771     0.5042
 7           70.58      1.0083      1.2         4.406     0.5890
 8           80.78      1.0097      1.4         5.043     0.6741
 9           91.00      1.0111      1.6         5.681     0.7504
10          101.3       1.0125      1.8         6.321     0.8450
11          111.5       1.0139      2.0         6.962     0.9307
12          121.8       1.0154      2.2         7.607     1.017
13          132.2       1.0168      2.4         8.252     1.103
14          142.5       1.0182      2.6         8.899     1.190
15          152.9       1.0195      2.8         9.547     1.276
16         163.3        1.0209      3.0       10.20       1.363
17          173.8       1.0223      3.2       10.85       1.450
18          184.2       1.0236      3.3        11.50      1.538
19          194.8       1.0250      3.5       12.16       1.625
20         205.3        1.0263      3.7       12.81       1.713
21          215.8       1.0276      3.9       13.47       1.801
22         226.3        1.0288      4.1       14.13       1.889
23         236.9        1.0301      4.2       14.79       1.977
24         247.5        1.0313      4.4       15.45       2.066
25         258.2        1.0326      4.6       16.12       2.154
26         268.8        1.0338      4.7       16.78       2.243
27         279.4        1.0349      4.9        17.44      2.332
28         290.1        1.0361      5.1       18.11       2.421
29         300.8        1.0372      5.2       18.78       2.510
30          311.5       1.0384      5.4       19.45       2.600
31         322.2        1.0395      5.5       20.12       2.689
32         333.0        1.0406      5.7       20.79       2.779
33         343.8        1.0417      5.8       21.46       2.869
34         354.6        1.0428      6.0       22.13       2.959
378
                                                        Density/acids
Density and concentration of acetic acid (CH3COOH) 20°/4 °C
%           g per       Density     ° Bé      lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
CH3COOH litre                                 cubic foot  gallon
35         365.3        1.0438      6.1       22.81       3.049
36         376.2        1.0449      6.2       23.48       3.139
37         387.0        1.0459      6.4       24.16       3.229
38         397.8        1.0469      6.5       24.83       3.320
39         408.7        1.0479      6.6       25.51       3.411
40          419.5       1.0488      6.8       26.19       3.501
41         430.4        1.0498      6.9       26.87       3.592
42         441.3        1.0507      7.0       27.55       3.683
43         452.2        1.0516      7.1       28.23       3.774
44         463.1        1.0525      7.2       28.91       3.865
45         474.0        1.0534      7.4       29.59       3.956
46         484.9        1.0542      7.5       30.27       4.047
47         495.9        1.0551      7.6       30.96       4.138
48         506.8        1.0559      7.7       31.64       4.230
49          517.8       1.0567      7.8       32.32       4.321
50         528.8        1.0575      7.9       33.01       4.413
51         539.7        1.0582      8.0       33.69       4.504
52         550.7        1.0590      8.1       34.38       4.596
53         561.6        1.0597      8.2       35.06       4.687
54         572.6        1.0604      8.3       35.75       4.779
55         583.6        1.0611      8.4       36.48       4.870
56         594.6        1.0618      8.4       37.12       4.962
57         605.6        1.0624      8.5       38.49       5.054
58         616.6        1.0631      8.6       39.18       5.146
59         627.6        1.0637      8.7       39.86       5.237
60         638.5        1.0642      8.8       40.55       5.329
61         649.5        1.0648      8.8       41.23       5.420
62         660.5        1.0653      8.9       41.92       5.512
63          671.5       1.0658      9.0       42.60       5.603
64         682.4        1.0662      9.0       43.28       5.695
65         693.3        1.0666      9.1       43.97       5.786
66         704.3        1.0671      9.1       44.65       5.877
67          715.2       1.0675      9.2       45.33       5.969
68         726.1        1.0678      9.2       46.01       6.059
                                                                  379
Density/acids
Density and concentration of acetic acid (CH3COOH) 20°/4 °C
%             g per       Density      ° Bé         lbs. per      lbs. per
                          (g/cm3)
CH3COOH litre                                       cubic foot    gallon
  69            737.1     1.0682       9.3          46.01         6.151
  70            748.0     1.0685       9.3          46.69         6.242
  71            758.8     1.0687       9.3          47.37         6.332
  72            769.7     1.0690       9.4          48.05         6.423
  73            780.6     1.0693       9.4          48.73         6.514
  74            791.4     1.0694       9.4          49.40         6.604
  75            802.2     1.0696       9.4          50.08         6.695
  76            813.0     1.0698       9.5          50.76         6.785
  77            823.8     1.0699       9.5          51.43         6.875
  78            834.6     1.0700       9.5          52.10         6.965
  79            845.3     1.0700       9.5          52.77         7.054
  80            856.0     1.0700       9.5          53.44         7.143
  81            866.6     1.0699       9.5          54.10         7.232
  82            877.2     1.0698       9.5          54.76         7.321
  83            887.8     1.0696       9.4          55.42         7.409
  84            898.2     1.0693       9.4          56.07         7.496
  85            908.6     1.0689       9.4          56.72         7.582
  86            918.9     1.0685       9.3          57.36         7.668
  87            929.2     1.0680       9.2          58.00         7.754
  88            939.4     1.0675       9.2          58.64         7.839
  89            949.5     1.0668       9.1          59.27         7.923
  90            950.5     1.0661       9.0          60.51         8.007
  92            979.2     1.0643       8.8          61.13         8.171
  94            998.2     1.0619       8.5          62.31         8.330
  96          1016        1.0588       8.1          63.45         8.482
  98          1034        1.0549       7.6          64.54         8.627
100           1050        1.0498       6.9          65.04         8.761
Note: If the volume weight of an acetic acid lies at d = 1.0553 and higher
(equivalent to 7.7 and more degrees Baumé) this density corresponds
to two different concentrations (e. g., d = 1.0660 or 9.0 °Bé = 64 % or
90 %). In order to determine as to which value is correct, add some water
to the acid: if the volume weight rises, the higher value is correct, and if it
decreases, the lower value is correct.
380
                                                     Density/acids
Density and concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl)
° Bé        % HCl       Density    ° Bé        % HCl   Density
                        (g/cm3)                        (g/cm3)
  1.00       1.40       1.0069    13.00        19.63   1.0985
  2.00       2.82       1.0140    13.25        20.04   1.1006
  3.00       4.25       1.0211    13.50        20.45   1.1027
  4.00       5.69       1.0284    13.75        20.86   1.1048
  5.00       7.15       1.0357    14.00        21.27   1.1069
  5.25       7.52       1.0394    14.25        21.68   1.1090
  5.50       7.89       1.0413    14.50        22.00   1.1111
  5.75       8.26       1.0432    14.75        22.50   1.1132
  6.00       8.64       1.0450    15.00        22.92   1.1154
  6.25       9.02       1.0469    15.25        23.33   1.1176
  6.50       9.40       1.0488    15.50        23.75   1.1197
  6.75       9.78       1.0507    15.75        24.16   1.1219
  7.00      10.17       1.0526    16.0         24.57   1.1240
  7.25      10.55       1.0545    16.1         24.73   1.1248
  7.50      10.94       1.0564    16.2         24.90   1.1256
  7.75      11.32       1.0584    16.3         25.06   1.1265
  8.00      11.71       1.0603    16.4         25.23   1.1274
  8.25      12.09       1.0623    16.5         25.39   1.1283
  8.50      12.48       1.0642    16.6         25.56   1.1292
  8.75      12.87       1.0662    16.7         25.72   1.1301
  9.00      13.26       1.0681    16.8         25.89   1.1310
  9.25      13.65       1.0701    16.9         26.05   1.1319
  9.50      14.04       1.0721    17.0         26.22   1.1328
  9.75      14.43       1.0741    17.1         26.39   1.1336
10.00       14.83       1.0761    17.2         26.56   1.1345
10.25       15.22       1.0781    17.3         26.73   1.1354
10.50       15.62       1.0801    17.4         26.90   1.1363
10.75       16.01       1.0821    17.5         27.07   1.1372
11.00       16.41       1.0841    17.6         27.24   1.1381
11.25       16.81       1.0861    17.7         27.41   1.1390
11.50       17.21       1.0881    17.8         27.58   1.1399
11.75       17.61       1.0902    17.9         27.75   1.1408
12.00       18.01       1.0922    18.0         27.92   1.1417
12.25       18.41       1.0932    18.1         28.09   1.1426
12.50       18.82       1.0943    18.2         28.26   1.1435
12.75       19.22       1.0964    18.3         28.44   1.1444
                                                               381
Density/acids
Density and concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl)
° Bé        % HCl       Density    ° Bé        % HCl Density
                        (g/cm3)                      (g/cm3)
18.4        28.61       1.1453    22.0         35.21 1.1789
18.5        28.78       1.1462    22.1         35.40 1.1798
18.6        28.95       1.1471    22.2         35.59 1.1808
18.7        29.13       1.1480    22.3         35.78 1.1817
18.8        29.30       1.1489    22.4         35.97 1.1827
18.9        29.48       1.1498    22.5         36.16 1.1836
19.0        29.65       1.1508    22.6         36.35 1.1846
19.1        29.83       1.1517    22.7         36.54 1.1856
19.2        30.00       1.1526    22.8         36.73 1.1866
19.3        30.18       1.1535    22.9         36.93 1.1875
19.4        30.35       1.1544    23.0         37.14 1.1885
19.5        30.53       1.1554    23.1         37.36 1.1895
19.6        30.71       1.1563    23.2         37.58 1.1904
19.7        30.90       1.1572    23.3         37.80 1.1914
19.8        31.08       1.1581    23.4         38.03 1.1924
19.9        31.27       1.1590    23.5         38.26 1.1934
20.0        31.45       1.1600    23.6         38.49 1.1944
20.1        31.64       1.1609    23.7         38.72 1.1953
20.2        31.82       1.1619    23.8         38.95 1.1963
20.3        32.01       1.1628    23.9         39.18 1.1973
20.4        32.19       1.1637    24.0         39.41 1.1983
20.5        32.38       1.1647    24.1         39.64 1.1993
20.6        32.56       1.1656    24.2         39.86 1.2003
20.7        32.75       1.1666    24.3         40.09 1.2013
20.8        33.03       1.1675    24.4         40.32 1.2023
20.9        33.12       1.1684    24.5         40.55 1.2033
21.0        33.31       1.1694    24.6         40.78 1.2043
21.1        33.50       1.1703    24.7         41.01 1.2053
21.2        33.69       1.1713    24.8         41.24 1.2063
21.3        33.88       1.1722    24.9         41.48 1.2073
21.4        34.07       1.1732    25.0         41.72 1.2083
21.5        34.26       1.1741    25.1         41.99 1.2093
21.6        34.45       1.1751    25.2         42.30 1.2103
21.7        34.64       1.1760    25.3         42.64 1.2114
21.8        34.83       1.1770    25.4         43.01 1.2124
21.9        35.02       1.1779    25.5         43.40 1.2134
382
                                                         Density/acids
Density and concentration of oxalic acid [(COOH)2 ·2H2O] at 15 °C
% Oxalic acid      Density                   g per litre
                   g/cm3
· 2 H 2O
  1                1.0032                     10.03
  2                1.0064                     20.13
  3                1.0096                     30.29
  4                1.0128                     40.51
  5                1.0160                     50.80
  6                1.0182                     61.09
  7                1.0204                     71.43
  8                1.0226                     81.81
  9                1.0248                     92.23
10                 1.0271                    102.71
11                 1.0289                    113.18
12                 1.0309                    123.71
12.6               1.0320                    130.03
                                                                   383
Density/salts
Salts
Density and concentration of ammonium chloride (NH4Cl) at 20 °C
% ammonium         Density                g per litre
                   g/cm3
chloride
 1                 1.0013                  10.01
 2                 1.0045                  20.09
 4                 1.0107                  40.43
 6                 1.0168                  61.01
 8                 1.0227                  81.82
10                 1.0286                 102.86
12                 1.0344                 124.13
14                 1.0401                 145.61
16                 1.0457                 167.31
18                 1.0512                 189.22
20                 1.0567                 211.34
22                 1.0621                 233.66
26                 1.0726                 278.88
Density and concentration of ammonium sulfate [(NH4)2 SO4] at 20 °C
% ammonium-        Density                g per litre
                   g/cm3
sulfate
 1                 1.0041                 10.04
 2                 1.0101                 20.20
 4                 1.0220                 40.88
 6                 1.0338                 62.03
 8                 1.0456                 83.65
10                 1.0574                 105.74
12                 1.0691                 128.29
14                 1.0808                 151.31
16                 1.0924                 174.78
18                 1.1039                 198.70
20                 1.1154                 223.08
24                 1.1383                 273.19
28                 1.1609                 325.05
30                 1.1721                 351.63
35                 1.2000                 420.00
40                 1.2277                 491.08
50                 1.2825                 641.25
384
                                                         Density/salts
Density and concentration of sodium acetate (CH3COONa) at 17.5 °C
                                           Density (g/cm3)
% CH3COONa          % CH3COONa·3H2O
 3.015               5                     1.015
 6.030              10                     1.031
 9.045              15                     1.047
12.060              20                     1.063
15.075              25                     1.0795
18.090              30                     1.0960
21.105              35                     1.1130
24.120              40                     1.1305
27.135              45                     1.1485
30.150              50                     1.1670
Density and concentration of sodium chloride (NaCl) at 20 °C
%           g per       Density    ° Bé       lbs. per      lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
NaCl        litre                             cubic foot    gallon
 1            10.05     1.0053       0.8        0.6276       0.0839
 2            20.25     1.0125       1.8        1.264        0.1690
 4            41.07     1.0268       3.8        2.564        0.3428
 6            62.48     1.0413       5.8        3.900        0.5214
 8            84.47     1.0559       7.7        5.273        0.7049
10          107.1       1.0707       9.6        6.684        0.8935
12          130.3       1.0857     11.5         8.133        1.087
14          154.1       1.1009     13.3         9.622        1.286
16          178.6       1.1162     15.1        11.15         1.490
18         203.7        1.1319     16.9        12.72         1.700
20         229.6        1.1478     18.7        14.33         1.916
22         256.1        1.1640     20.4        15.99         2.137
24         283.3        1.1804     22.2        17.69         2.364
26          311.3       1.1972     23.9        19.43         2.598
                                                                    385
Density/salts
Density and concentration of sodium sulfate (Na2SO4) 20°/4 °C
%           g per       Density    ° Bé        lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
Na2SO4      litre                              cubic foot  gallon
 1             10.07    1.0073       1.1         0.6288     0.0841
 2            20.33     1.0164       2.3         1.269      0.1696
 4            41.39     1.0348       4.9         2.584      0.3454
 6            63.21     1.0535       7.4         3.946      0.5275
 8            85.79     1.0724       9.8         5.356      0.7160
10          109.2       1.0915     12.2          6.814      0.9109
12          133.3       1.1109     14.5          8.322      1.112
14          158.3       1.1306     16.8          9.881      1.321
16          184.1       1.1506     19.0        11.49        1.536
18          210.8       1.1709     21.2        13.16        1.759
20          238.3       1.1915     23.3        14.88        1.989
22          266.7       1.2124     25.4        16.65        2.226
24          296.1       1.2336     27.5        18.48        2.471
Density and concentration of sodium sulfate cryst.
(Na2SO4·10H2O) 20°/4 °C
%           g per       Density    ° Bé        lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
Na2SO4 ·    litre                              cubic foot  gallon
10H2O
 2.268        22.85     1.0073     1.1           1.426     0.1907
 4.536        46.11     1.0164     2.3           2.878     0.3848
 9.073        93.88     1.0348     4.9           5.861     0.7835
13.61       143.4       1.0535     7.4           8.950     1.197
18.15       194.6       1.0724     9.8         12.15       1.624
22.68       247.6       1.0915    12.2         15.46       2.066
27.22       302.4       1.1109    14.5         18.88       2.523
31.75       359.0       1.1306    16.8         22.41       2.996
36.29       417.6       1.1506    19.0         26.07       3.485
40.83       478.1       1.1709    21.2         29.84       3.989
45.36       540.5       1.1915    23.3         33.74       4.511
49.90       605.0       1.2124    25.4         37.77       5.049
54.44       671.5       1.2336    27.5         41.92       5.604
386
                                                         Density/salts
Density and concentration of sodium sulfite (Na2SO3) at 15 °C
Density            °Bé                % Na2SO3              % SO2
(g/cm3)
1.008               1                   0.6                  0.4
1.015               2                   1.3                  0.9
1.022               3                   2.1                  1.3
1.030               4                   2.8                  1.7
1.038               5                   3.6                  2.2
1.045               6                   4.3                  2.6
1.052               7                   5.1                  3.1
1.060               8                   5.8                  3.5
1.068               9                   6.5                  3.9
1.076              10                   7.2                  4.3
1.084              11                   8.0                  4.8
1.092              12                   8.8                  5.2
1.100              13                   9.5                  5.7
1.108              14                 10.3                   6.2
1.116              15                 11.2                   6.8
1.125              16                 12.0                   7.3
1.134              17                 12.8                   7.8
1.143              18                 13.7                   8.4
1.152              19                 14.6                   9.0
1.161              20                 15.5                   9.6
1.171              21                 16.5                  10.2
1.181              22                 17.5                  10.8
1.190              23                 18.5                  11.5
1.200              24                 19.7                  12.2
1.210              25                 20.9                  12.9
1.220              26                 22.2                  13.7
1.230              27                 23.5                  14.5
1.241              28                 24.7                  15.2
1.252              29                 25.9                  15.9
1.263              30                 27.4                  16.8
1.275              31                 28.9                  17.8
1.286              32                 30.3                  18.7
1.298              33                 31.7                  19.6
1.309              34                 33.2                  21.0
1.321              35                 34.7                  22.5
1.333              36                 36.4                  23.0
1.345              37                 38.0                  23.6
                                                                  387
Density/salts
Density and concentration of sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3) at 15 °C
%           g per       Density    ° Bé         lbs. per    lbs. per
                        (g/cm3)
NaHSO3      litre                               cubic foot  gallon
 1.02         10.27     1.0069     1              0.6411    0.0857
 2.04         20.69     1.0140     2              1.291     0.1726
 3.06         31.25     1.0211     3              1.951     0.2607
 4.08         41.96     1.0284     4              2.619     0.3502
 5.11         52.92     1.0357     5              3.304     0.4417
 6.15         64.16     1.0432     6              4.005     0.5354
 7.19         75.55     1.0507     7              4.716     0.6304
 8.24         87.21     1.0584     8              5.444     0.7278
 9.30         99.16     1.0662     9              6.190     0.8275
10.36       111.3       1.0741    10              6.947     0.9286
11.42       123.6       1.0821    11              7.714     1.031
12.48       136.1       1.0902    12              8.493     1.135
13.56       149.0       1.0985    13              9.299     1.243
14.65      162.2        1.1069    14            10.12       1.353
15.75       175.7       1.1154    15            10.97       1.466
16.85       189.4       1.1240    16            11.82       1.581
17.96      203.5        1.1328    17            12.70       1.698
19.08       217.8       1.1417    18            13.60       1.818
20.20      232.5        1.1508    19            14.51       1.940
21.32      247.3        1.1600    20            15.44       2.064
22.44      262.4        1.1694    21            16.38       2.190
23.57      277.9        1.1789    22            17.35       2.319
24.71      293.7        1.1885    23            18.22       2.451
25.85      309.8        1.1983    24            19.34       2.585
26.99      326.1        1.2083    25            20.36       2.722
28.13      342.8        1.2185    26            21.40       2.860
29.27      359.7        1.2288    27            22.45       3.001
30.43      377.1        1.2393    28            23.54       3.147
31.57      394.6        1.2500    29            24.63       3.293
32.71       412.4       1.2609    30            25.75       3.442
33.86      430.7        1.2719    31            26.88       3.594
35.01      449.2        1.2832    32            28.04       3.749
36.25      469.3        1.2946    33            29.30       3.916
37.51      490.0        1.3063    34            30.59       4.089
388
                                                        Density/salts
Density and concentration of sodium thiosulfate
(Na2S2O3·5H2O) at 20 °C
Density (g/cm3)    % Na2S2O3·5H2O           g per litre
1.0065               1.57                    15.8
1.0148               3.14                    31.8
1.0315               6.28                    64.7
1.0483               9.42                    98.7
1.0654              12.56                   133.8
1.0827              15.70                   170.0
1.1003              18.84                   207.3
1.1182              21.98                   245.7
1.1365              25.12                   285.4
1.1551              28.25                   326.4
1.1740              31.39                   368.6
1.1932              34.53                   412.1
1.2128              37.67                   456.9
1.2328              40.81                   503.1
1.2532              43.95                   550.8
1.2739              47.09                   599.9
1.3273              54.94                   729.2
1.3827              62.79                   868.2
                                                                 389
Technical literature
Technical literature
A. Books*
1. Bibliothek des Leders
   Herausgeber: Prof. Dr. Ing. habil. Hans Herfeld
   1. Auflage 1981 –1990
   Umschau Verlag – Frankfurt am Main
– Band 1: H. Herfeld
   Die tierische Haut (1990)
– Band 2: A. Zissel
   Arbeiten der Wasserwerkstatt bei der Lederherstellung (1987)
– Band 3: K. Faber
   Gerbmittel, Gerbung und Nachgerbung (1984)
– Band 4: M. Hollstein
   Entfetten, Fetten und Hydrophobieren bei der Lederherstellung (1988)
– Band 5: K. Eitel
   Das Färben von Leder (1987)
– Band 6: R. Schubert
   Lederzurichtung – Oberflächenbehandlung des Leders (1982)
– Band 7: H. Herfeld
   Rationalisierung der Lederherstellung durch Mechanisierung und
   Automatisierung – Gerbereimaschinen (1990)
– Band 8: L. Feikes
   Ökologische Probleme der Lederindustrie (1985)
– Band 9: H. Pfisterer
   Energieeinsatz in der Lederindustrie (1985)
– Band 10: J. Lange
   Qualitätsbeurteilung von Leder, Lederfehler, Lederlagerung und
   Lederpflege (1982)
2. Gerbereichemie und Gerbereitechnologie
   Dr. phil. habil. Fritz Stather
   4. Auflage 1967
   Akademie Verlag – Berlin
390
                                                     Technical literature
3. The Chemistry and Technology of Leather
    Fred O’Flaherty, William T. Roddy, Robert M. Lollar
    1st edition 1956 – 1965
    Volume 1 Preparation for Tannage (1956)
    Volume 2 Types of Tannage (1958)
    Volume 3 Process Control of Leather Quality (1961)
    Volume 4 Evaluation of Leather (1965)
    Reinhold Publishing Corporation – New York/USA
4. Leather Technician’s Handbook
    J. H. Sharphouse
    2nd edition 1972/reprint 1975
    Leather Producers’ Association – London/UK
5. Lederherstellung
    Dr. K. Pauligk/Gerberei-Obering. R. Hagen
    2. Auflage 1983
    Fachbuchverlag – Leipzig
6. Ledertechnik
    Dr. W. Werner
    1. Auflage 1979
    Fachbuchverlag – Leipzig
7.  Das Färben des Leders
    Dr. Gerhard Otto
    1. Auflage 1962
    Eduard Roether KG – D-64212 Darmstadt
8. La Nourriture du Cuir
    Dr. Jean Poré
    1st edition 1974
    Société des Publications “Le Cuir” – Paris/F
9. Gerbereichemisches Taschenbuch
    Dr. A. Küntzel
    6. Auflage 1955
    Verlag Theodor Steinkopff – Dresden/Leipzig
10. Official Methods of Analysis
    4th edition 1965 (with supplements)
    Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists; Redbourn, Herts./UK
                                                                      391
Technical literature
11. Practical Leather Technology
    T. C. Thorstensen
    2nd edition 1976
    Reinhold Publishing Corporation – New York/USA
12. Physical Chemistry of Leather Making
    K. Bienkiewicz, R. E. Krieger
    1st edition 1983
    Publishing Company – Malabar Florida/USA
13. Rauchwarenherstellung und Pelzkonfektion
    Autorenkollektiv
    1. Auflage 1979
    Fachbuchverlag – Leipzig
14. Lederwörterbuch in sechs Sprachen
    Dr. G. Otto/Antoni Yila-Catalá
    1. Auflage 1976
    Eduard Roether KG – D-64212 Darmstadt
15. Leather Guide
    International Directory of the Industry (published annually)
    Benn Publications Ltd. – Tunbridge Wells, Kent/UK
16. Fundamentals of Leather Manufacturing
    Prof. Dr. E. Heidemann
    1st edition 1993
    Eduard Roether KG – D-64212 Darmstadt
17. Possible defects in leather production
    Gerberei-Ing. Gerhard John
    1. Auflage 1997
    Selbstverlag – D-68623 Lampertheim
18. Praktische Farbmessung
    Berger-Schunn
    2. Auflage 1994
    Muster-Schmidt Verlag, Göttingen, Zürich
19. Principles of Color Technology
    F. W. Billmeyer Jr., M. Saltzmann
    2. Auflage 1981
    Wiley, New York
* Some titles are currently not available
392
                                                       Technical literature
B. Selection of Journals (devoted mainly to pure science)
1. Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists
   (published bimonthly)
   Society of Leather Trades’ Chemists
   49 North Park Street
   Dewsbury, West Yorkshire, GB
2. The Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association
   (published monthly)
   330 White Falls Drive
   Columbia, SC, USA
C. Selection of Journals (devoted mainly to practice)
1. Leder- und Häutemarkt (published every two weeks)
   Spezialfachzeitschrift für die Lederindustrie, den Häute- und Leder-
   großhandel mit Beilage: Gerbereiwissenschaft und Praxis.
   Umschau-Verlag – Frankfurt am Main, Germany
2. Leather International (published monthly)
   Polygon Media Ltd.
   Tubs Hill House
   London Road/Seven Oaks,
   Kent, GB
3. IDC Industries du Cuir (published monthly)
   14, rue de la Folie-Regnault
   75011 Paris, France
4. World Leather (published monthly)
   Shoes Trades Publishing Company
   P.O. Box 6, 36, Crosby Road North
   Liverpool, GB
5. La Conceria S. R. L. (published weekly)
   Via Brisa 3,
   20123 Milano, Italy
                                                                        393
Abbreviations of commercial terms
International commercial terms
a.a.r.        against all risks
a.r.          all risks
A.C.          American conditions
A/T           American terms
acct.         account
Av.           average
B.L.          bill of lading
C.A.D.        cash against documents
C.B.D.        cash before delivery
c. & f.       cost and freight
c. & i.       cost and insurance
C/I           certificate of insurance
C.I.A.        cash in advance
c.i.f.        cost, insurance and freight
c.i.f. & c.   cost, insurance, freight and commission
c.i.f.c. & i. cost, insurance, freight, commission and interest
c.o.d (COD) cash on delivery
c.o.s.        cash on shipment
c.p.t.        cost paid for transportation
C.W.O.        cash with order
D.A.          deposit account
394
                                   Abbreviations of commercial terms
D.A.D.     document account disposition
D.A.F.     delivery at frontier
D.D.V.     delivery at destination undeclared
D.E.Q.     delivery at quayside
D.E.S.     delivery ex ship
d.f.       dead freight
D/N        debit note
D.O. (d/o) delivery order
D/P        documents against payment
D.W        dock warrent
E.c.       English conditions
E. & O.E.  errors and omissions excluded
E.O.M.     end of month
E.X.N.     delivery ex works
f.a.a.     free of all average
F.A.S.     free alongside ship
f.o.t.     free on truck
f.p.a.     free of particular average
frt.pp.    freight prepaid
g.a.       general average
I.B.       in bond
Int.       interset
                                                                 395
Abbreviations of commercial terms
i.P.A.      including part average
I.T.        immediate transportation
L/C         letter of credit
L. & D.     loss and damage
M.D.        months’ date
M.I.P.      maritime insurance policy
M/P         months after payment
N/T         new terms
n.wt.       net weight
O.P.        open policy
O.R.        owner’s risk
O.R.D.      owner’s risk damage
O/T         old terms
P/a         part average
P.L.        part loss
P/N         promissory note
P.O.D.      pay on delivery
ppd.        prepaid
ppt.        prompt
r.c.c. & s. riots, civil commotions and strikes
rect(rept)  receipt
R.I.        reinsurance
396
                                        Abbreviations of commercial terms
RP            reply paid
S. (sgd)      signed
S.D.B.L.      sight draft and bill lof lading
S. & F.A.     ship broker ad forwarding agent
s.g. (sp.gr.) specific gravity
S/N           shipping note
S/S           steamship
T/A           trade acceptance
t.l.o.        total loss only
t.q.          tel quel
tr.           tara
u.c.          usual conditions
u.t.          usual terms
U/w           underwriter
W.B.          waybill
w.g.          weight guaranteed
w/m           weight or measure
W.R.          war risk
W/R           warehouse receipt
wt            weight
W/W           warehouse warrant
                                                                      397
World time zones
Standard time in World time zones
The table below shows the standard local time at various places
in the different world time zones when it is 12.00 (CET) noon in Berlin
(Germany).
(*Time kept one hour in advance of the actual time during summer.)
Place                           Time   Place                           Time
Accra (Ghana)                  11.00   Helsinki (Finland)             13.00
Algiers (Algeria)              12.00   Hongkong                       19.00
Alma-Ata (Kazakhstan)          16.00   Honolulu (Hawaii)                1.00
Amsterdam (Netherlands)        12.00
                                       Istanbul (Turkey)              13.00
Angmagssalik (Greenland)        8.00
                                       Jakarta (Indonesia)            18.00
Antwerp (Belgium)              12.00
                                       Jerusalem (Israel)             13.00
Athens (Greece)                13.00
                                       Johannesburg (South Africa)    13.00
Baghdad (Iraq)                 14.00
                                       Kabul (Afghanistan)            15.30
Bangkok (Thailand)             18.00
                                       Karachi (Pakistan)             16.00
Belgrade (Yugoslavia)          12.00
                                       Kiev (Ukraine)                 13.00
Bern (Switzerland)             12.00
                                       Kingsbay (Spitzbergen)         12.00
Bogota (Colombia)               6.00
                                       Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)        19.00
Bombay (India)                 16.30
Bratislawa (Slovakia)          12.00
                                       Las Palmas (Canary Islands) 11.00
Brussels (Belgium)             12.00
                                       Lisbon (Portugal)              12.00
Budapest (Hungary)             12.00
                                       London (Great Britain)         11.00
Buenos Aires (Argentine)        8.00
                                       Los Angeles (USA)            * 3.00
Bukarest (Romania)             13.00
                                       Ljubljana (Slovenia)           12.00
Cairo (Egypt)                 *13.00
                                       Madrid (Spain)                 12.00
Caracas (Venezuela)             6.30
                                       Manila (Philippines)           19.00
Casablanca (Morocco)           11.00
                                       Masqat (Saudi Arabia)          15.00
Chicago (USA)                 * 5.00
                                       Melbourne (Australia)          21.00
Chunking (China)               19.00
                                       Mexico City (Mexico)             5.00
Colombo (Ceylon)               16.30
                                       Milan (Italy)                  12.00
Copenhagen (Denmark)           12.00
                                       Minsk (White Russia)           14.00
Dakar (West Africa)            11.00
                                       Montreal (Canada)            * 6.00
Dublin (Ireland)               11.00
                                       Moscow (Russia)               *13.00
Glasgow (Scotland)            *11.00
                                       New York (USA)               * 6.00
Guatemala (Central America) 5.00
                                       Nome (Alaska)                * 0.00
398
                                 World time zones
Place                       Time
Oslo (Norway)             *12.00
Panama                      6.00
Paris (France)             12.00
Peking (China)             19.00
Prague (Czech Rep.)        12.00
Rangoon (Burma)            17.30
Reykjavik (Iceland)       *10.00
Riga (Latvia)              13.00
Rio de Janeiro (Brazil)     8.00
Rome (Italy)               12.00
San Francisco (USA)       * 3.00
Santiago de Chile           8.00
Seoul (Korea)              20.00
Singapore                  19.00
Sofia (Bulgaria)           13.00
Stockholm (Sweden)         12.00
St. Petersburg (Russia)   *14.00
Sidney (Australia)         21.00
Tashkent (Uzbekistan)      17.00
Tenerife (Canary Islands)  11.00
Tokio (Japan)              20.00
Vancouver (Canada)        * 3.00
Venice (Italy)             12.00
Vienna (Austria)           12.00
Warsaw (Poland)           *12.00
Zagreb (Croatia)           12.00
                                              399
Adresses
BASF Aktiengesellschaft
Postal address:   Carl-Bosch-Straße 38
                  67056 Ludwigshafen
Telephone:        (06 21) 60-0 (switchboard)
Direct line:      (06 21) 60-...
Telefax:          (06 21) 60-4 25 25
Telex:            46499-0 bas d
E-Mail:           info.serice@basf-ag.de
Website:          www.basf-ag.de
Performance Chemicals for Leather
BASF Aktiengesellschaft               Tel     (49) 621 60-99504
                                      Telefax (49) 621 60 99381
Global Business Management            E-Mail  leather-info@basf-ag.de
Performance Chemicals                 Website www.basf.com/leather
for Leather
BASF South East Asia Pte. Ltd.        Tel     (65) 432 34 38
Regional Business Unit                Telefax (65) 432 34 10
Performance Chemicals for
Leather Asia
BASF Corporation                      Tel     (1) 704 398 42 09
Regional Business Unit                Telefax (1) 704 398 42 82
Performance Chemicals for
Leather NAFTA
BASF S.A.                             Tel     (55) 11 4343 2968
Regional Business Unit                Telefax (55) 11 4343 2216
Performance Chemicals for
Leather South America
400
                                                 Adresses
BASF Curtex S.A.          Tel     (34) 93 2 61 61 00
Regional Business Unit    Telefax (34) 93 2 61 62 11
Performance Chemicals for
Leather Europe
BASF Aktiengesellschaft   Tel     (49) 621 60-44547
Regional Marketing        Telefax (49) 621 60 44618
Eastern Europe, Africa,
Western Asia
                                                      401
Adresses
BASF Representatives
Algeria
BASF SPA                   Tel     21 603493
13, Rue Arezki Abri                21 603581
Hydra                              21 603589
16035 Alger                Telefax 21 693811
                           E-Mail  basf@djazair-connect.com
Argentine
BASF Argentina S.A.        Tel     11 4317-9600
Av. Corrientes 327         Telefax 11 4317-9700
C1043 AAD Buenos Aires     E-Mail  rrpp@basf-arg.com.ar
Casilla de Correo          Website www.basf.com.ar
Central 4800
C1000 Buenos Aires
Australia
BASF Australia Ltd.        Tel     3 92121500
500 Princes Highway        Telefax 3 92121511
Noble Park Vic. 3174
G.P.O. Box 4705
Melbourne Vic. 3001
Austria
BASF Österreich Ges.m.b.H. BCN     8-760-66 (operator)
Hietzinger Hauptstraße 119         8-760-nnn (direct line)
Postfach 1000              Tel     1 87890-0 (operator)
1131 Wien                          1 87890-... (direct line)
                           Telefax 1 87890-110
                           Website www.basf.at
Bahrain
Yusuf Bin Ahmed Kanoo      Tel     738200
Commercial Division        Telefax 732828
P.O. Box 45
Manama
402
                                                       Adresses
Bangladesh
BASF Bangladesh Limited    Tel     2 8313479
H.R. Bhaban (4th floor)            2 9348374
26/1, Kakrail Road                 2 9348375
P.O. Box 410                       2 9348376
Dhaka-1000                 Telefax 2 8313599
                           E-Mail  basfdhak@citechco.net
                           Website www.basf-bangla.com
Belarus
BASF CIS Trading GmbH      Tel     172 239042
Agency in Belarus                  172 239024
Pr. Masherova 5                    172 893042
220004 Minsk                       172 233114
                                   172 239133
                                   172 239826
                                   172 893079
                           Telefax 172 239013
Belgium
BASF Belgium S.A./N.V.     BCN     8-39-2111 (operator)
Avenue Hamoir 14/                  8-39-nnnn (direct line)
Hamoirlaan 14              Tel     2 373-2111 (operator)
1180 Bruxelles/Brussel             2 373-.... (direct line)
                           Telefax 2 3751042
                           Website www.basf-belg.be
Bolivia
BASF Bolivia S.R.L.        Tel     3 3377262
Av. Monseñor Riveros esq.  Fax     3 3377263
Asunción
1° Piso- Edificio Citibank
Casilla 7185
Santa Cruz
Brazil
BASF S.A.                  BCN     8-52-2233 (operator)
Estrada Samuel                     8-52-nnnn (direct line)
Aizemberg 1707             Tel     11 4343-2233
09851-550 São Bernardo     Telefax 11 4343-6989
do Campo – SP
                                                            403
Adresses
Bulgaria
BASF EOOD                    Tel     2 9516178 (operator)
WV Ivan Vasov Balscha Str. 1         2 9516973
1408 Sofia                           2 9519286
                             Telefax 2 9516579
                                     2 9549638
Canada
BASF Canada                  Tel     416 675-3611
345 Carlingview Drive        Telefax 416 674-2588
Toronto, Ontario M9W 6N9
Chile
BASF Chile S.A.              Tel     2 6407-000
Av. Carrascal 3851           Telefax 2 6407-107 (GL)
7360081 Santiago de Chile            2 7753095
Casilla 3238                         (Distribution)
6501020 Santiago de Chile            2 7737542
                                     (Import)
                                     2 7736101
                                     (Agro)
                             E-Mail  rrpp@basf-chile.cl
China (cf. Hongkong)
BASF (China) Co Ltd.         BCN     8-682-0 (operator)
15/F, Beijing Sunflower              8-682-nnnn (direct line)
Tower                        Tel     10 65918899
No. 37, Maizidian Street     Telefax 10 85275599
Chaoyang District
Beijing 100026
Colombia
BASF Química                 BCN     8-634-1nnn (direct line)
Colombiana S.A.                      8-634-2nnn (direct line)
Calle 99A No. 51-32          Tel     1 6322260
A.A. 5751 y 7072             Telefax 1 6242646
Bogotá                               (Management)
404
                                                    Adresses
Costa Rica
BASF de Costa Rica, S.A.    Tel     2 538066
100 m al este del           Telefax 2 342449
Taller Wabe                 E-Mail  basfcr@racsa.co.cr
Granadilla Norte de
Curridabat
San José
Croatia
BASF Croatia d.o.o.         BCN     8-7735-243 (operator)
Vlaska 40                           8-7735-nnn (direct line)
10000 Zagreb                Tel     1 4814243
                                    1 4814238
                            Telefax 1 4814246
                                    1 4814224
Cuba
BASF Dominicana S.A.        Tel     7 246225
Sucursal de Cuba                    7 246226
Calle 3ra No. 3406 Apto. 3C Telefax 7 246026
e/34 y 36, Miramar, Playa   E-Mail  bdc@ip.etecsa.cu
La Habana
Apartado Postal 4009
Vedado, La Habana
Czech Republic
BASF spol. s r.o.           BCN     8-763-111 (operator)
Safrankova 3                        8-763-nnn (direct line)
15500 Praha 5               Tel     2 35000111
                            Telefax 2 35000222
                            E-Mail  info@basf.cz
                            Website www.basf.cz
Denmark
BASF A/S                    BCN     8-740-700 (operator)
– Agro Nordic/Baltic                8-740-nnn (direct line)
– Fine Chemicals            Tel     32660700
   Nordic/Baltic            Telefax 32572202
Ved Stadsgraven 15          E-Mail  basf-dk@nordic.basf.org
Postboks 1734               Website www.basf.com/nordic
2300 Kopenhagen
                                                             405
Adresses
Dominican Republic
BASF Dominicana S.A.     Tel     3341026
Plaza RRJ,                       5320088
3er nivel – Bella Vista  Telefax 3341027
Av. Romulo Betancourt    E-Mail  basf.dom@codetel.net.do
No. 279
Santo Domingo
Ecuador
BASF Ecuatoriana S.A.    Tel     22 541-100
Av. República 500                22 541-291
Edificio Pucara, Piso 12         22 569368
Casilla de Correo                (General manager)
17-01-3255               Telefax 22 509-194
Quito                            22 509-195
Egypt
BASF Limited             Tel     (2) 7356210
11, Abu el Feda Street   Telefax (2) 7364710
11211 Zamalek – Cairo    E-Mail  basf.egypt@africa.basf.org
El Salvador
BASF de El Salvador,     Tel     2895420
S.A. de C.V.             Telefax 2784299
Calle L-2 No 21,
Ciudad Merliot
La Libertad
Estonia
see under Lithuania
Finland
BASF Oy                  Tel     9 61598-1
– Paper Nordic/Baltic    Telefax 9 61598-250
Annankatu 42 C           E-Mail  basf-fi@nordic.basf.org
PL 500                   Website www.basf.com/nordic
00101 Helsinki
406
                                                              Adresses
France
BASF France S.A.                BCN        8-31-5000 (operator)
49, avenue Georges                         8-31-nnnn (direct line)
Pompidou                        Tel        1 4964-5000 (operator)
92593 Levallois Perret                     1 4964-.... (direct line)
Cedex                           Telefax    1 4964-5050
                                Telex      basfc 620445f
Greece
Dr. D.A. Delis AG               Tel        10 3297222
Paleologou Benizelou 5          Telefax    10 3230550
10556 Athínai                              10 3297300
                                Cable delichimik
Guatemala
BASF de Guatemala S.A.          Tel        4 774659 PBX
Avenida Petapo 47 – 31,         Telefax    4 774680
Zona 12
Apartado Postal 850
Ciudad de Guatemala
Haiti
Walter Hirsch AdM               Tel        225903
Mr. Werner Hirsch                          222042
12, Rue du Quai                 Telefax    225903
P.O. Box 248                               231886
Port-au-Prince                  E-Mail     whirsch@acn.com
Honduras
P.A.Y.S.E.N., S.A. de C.V.      Tel        2 283156
Edificio P.A.Y.S.E.N.,                     2 283157
S.A. de C.V.                               2 283155
Colonia Altos de Miraflores Sur            2 283213
Atrás del plantel de            Telefax    2 283158
Hogares – SOVIPE                E-Mail     paysen.basf@hn2.com
Apartado Postal 252
Tegucigalpa, D.C.
Hungary
BASF Hungária Kft.              BCN        8-761-700 (operator)
Seregély u. 1-5.                           8-761-7nn (direct line)
1034 Budapest                   Tel        1 2504111
                                           1 2509700
                                Telefax    1 2504660
                                           1 2504661
                                                                     407
Adresses
Iceland
see Denmark
India
BASF India Limited            Tel     22 4930703
Rhône-Poulenc House           Telefax 22 4950512
Sudam Kalu Ahire Marg.                22 4941612
P. O. Box 19108
Mumbai-400 025
Indonesia
P.T. BASF Indonesia           Tel     21 5262481
Main Office                           21 5262505
Plaza GRI, 10th & 11th floor  Telefax 21 5262541
Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said                  21 5262515
Blok X-2/No. 1
Jakarta 12950
P.O. Box 2431 Gbr.
Jakarta 10024
Iran
BASF Iran AG                  Tel     21 8768403
Sohrevardi Shomali Ave.               21 8768237
Kangavar Alley-No 5                   21 8764840
Teheran                               21 8769542
P.O. Box 1365-4619            Telefax 21 8762894
Teheran 15579                 E-Mail  basf_m_iran@mftmail.com
Ireland
BASF Ireland Limited          Tel     1 8255701
Bracetown Business Park       Telefax 1 8252038
Clonee                        E-Mail  basfirl@indigo.ie
Co. Meath
Italy
BASF Italia Spa               BCN     8-722-111 (operator)
Management, Sales and Factory         8-722-nnn (direct line)
Via Marconato 8               Tel     0362 512-1 (operator)
20031 Cesano Maderno Ml               0362 512-... (direct line)
                              Telefax 0362 512-210
408
                                                   Adresses
Japan
BASF Japan Ltd.           BCN     8-501-nnn (direct line)
Osaka Office              Tel     6 6266-nnnn (direct line)
1-8-15, Azuchimachi,              6 6266-6801
Chuo-ku                           (BM Specialties)
Osaka 541-0052            Telefax 6 6266-6956
                                  (BM Specialties)
Jordan
Yordan Obégi & Co.        Tel     6 5682044
Smeisani. Amman                   6 5682434
P.O. Box 631              Telefax 6 5685412
Amman 11118               Telex   21475 igebo jo
                          E-Mail  chemical@go.com.jo
                          Website www.obegichem.com
Kazakhstan
BASF Agency in Kasachstan Tel     3272 581728
ul. Tole bi 69, Whng. 33          3272 581734
480091 Almaty                     3272 628447
                          Telefax 3272 639308
                          E-Mail  basfkaz@asdc.kz
Korea, South
BASF Company Ltd.         BCN     8-694-0 (operator)
KCCI Bldg., 9-11th floor          8-694-nnnn (direct line)
45, Namdaemunno           Tel     2 3707-3100
4-ga, Jung-gu                     (Chairman’s Office (BK))
Seoul 100-743             Telefax 2 3707-3122
                                  (Chairman’s Office (BK))
Kuwait
Mazidi Trading Company    Tel     2467177
W.L.L.                            2403771
Al Naki Building                  2403772
Ali Al Salem Street,      Telefax 2468982
Al-Mubarakiya                     2403770
P.O. Box 228 Safat        E-Mail  mazidi@mazidi.com
13003 Safat Kuwait        Website www.mazidi.com
                                                           409
Adresses
Latvia
BASF Agency for Estonia,    BCN     8-7734-0 (operator)
Latvia and Lithuania                8-7734-nn (direct line)
Vilandes iela 1             Tel     7 830401
1010 Riga                   Telefax 7 930402
Lebanon
Obegi Chemicals S.A.L.      Tel     1 900771-73
Express Way – Sea Side      Telefax 1 900774
Dora District               E-Mail  chemicals@inco.com.lb
150 m from Uniterminal
Beirut
Lithuania
BASF AB Agency for Estonia, Tel     5 2107450
Latvia and Lithuania        Telefax 5 2107455
Tauro g. 12
2100 Vilnius
Luxembourg
see under Belgium
Macedonia
BASF Agency Skopje          Tel     2 220284
Mitropoliten Teodosij       Telefax 2 220284
Gologonov 58                Telex   51726 basfsk mb
                                    basf macedonia@east-europe.basf.org
91000 Skopje                E-Mail
Malaysia
BASF Petronas Chemicals     Tel     3 50316010
Sdn. Bhd.                   Telefax 3 50316010
C 802, Central Tower
Wisma Consplant
Jalan SS 16/4
Subang Jaya
47500 Petaling Jaya
Selangor Darul Ehsan
Malta
De Mattos & Sullivan        Tel     21342348
Limited                             21342349
47/1 Tigne Sea Front                21312953
Sliema SLM 15               Telefax 21342364
Malta                       E-Mail  demattos@waldonet.net.mt
410
                                                          Adresses
Mauritius
Mauvilac Chemicals Ltd.     Tel     2124607
Pailles Road                Telefax 2124308
Les Pailles                 Telex   4358 mauvi iw
Mexico
BASF Mexicana S.A.          BCN     8-545-2600 (operator)
de C.V.                             8-545-nnnn (direct line)
Insurgentes Sur 975         Tel     55 5325-2600
Col. Ciudad de los Deportes Telefax 55 5325-2777
                                    basf-mexicana@notes.basf-corp.com
Delegación Benito Juárez    E-Mail
03710 México, D.F.          Website www.basf.com/mexido
Apartado Postal 18-953
Col. Tacubaya
Delegación Miguel Hidalgo
11870 México, D.F.
Morocco
BASF Maroc S.A.             BCN     8-671-400 (operator)
Société des Colorants,              8-671-nnn (direct line)
Matières                    Tel.    22 669-400
Chimiques pour l’Industrie          22 351158
et l’Agriculture                    22 351183
7, Rue des Orchidées                22 355719
B. P. 2509                          22 355766
20250 Ain Sebâa/Casablanca          22 355776
                                    22 355785
                            Telefax 22 354832 (Management)
                                    22 350136
                                    22 350517
                                    22 354831
                            E-Mail  basf.maroc@basf-m-s.es
Myanmar
Myanmar Chemicals Co., Ltd. Tel     1 544930
No. 81,                     Telefax 1 545072
New University Avenue Road
Bahan Township
Yangon, Myanmar
                                                                   411
Adresses
Nepal
M/s. Amaravati International Tel     1 272550-55
c/o Soaltee Hotel Limited    Telefax 1 272201
P.O.B. No. 1481
Tahachal
Kathmandu
Netherlands
BASF Nederland B. V.         BCN     8-70-7171 (operator)
Locatie Kadestraat                   8-70-7nnn (direct line)
Kadestraat 1                 Tel     26 371-7171
6811 CA Arnhem               Telefax 26 371-7246
Postbus 1019                 E-Mail  info@basf.nl
6801 MC Arnhem               Website www.basf.nl
New Zealand
BASF New Zealand Ltd.        Tel     9 6330200
38 Mahunga Drive             Telefax 9 6330265
Mangere Bridge
P.O. Box 407
Auckland, 1015
Nicaragua
IMASA                        Tel     2 660768
Edificio Malaga,                     2 660489
módulo No. A 15,                     2 664930
Plaza España                 Telefax 2 664930
Apartado Postal 2658                 2 660768
Managua                      E-Mail  imasa@imasa.com.ni
Norway
BASF AS                      Tel     66792100
Leangbukta 40                Telefax 66904755
Postboks 233                 E-Mail  basf-no@nordic.basf.org
1372 Asker                   Website www.basf.com/nordic
412
                                                               Adresses
Oman
Reem Scientific & Energy             Tel     736239
Technologies LLC (Reset)                     736573
Building No. 1329,                   Telefax 740423
Way No. 9342                                 740230
Al Waljat Street                     Telex   5542 omzest on
P.O. Box 879
Postal Code 113
Muscat
Pakistan
BASF Pakistan                        Tel     21 111550550
(Private) Limited                            21 4549171
46-A, Block-6                                21 4529174
P.E.C.H.S.                                   21 4520534
P.O. Box 3171                                21 4539881
Karachi-75400                                21 4530682
                                     Telefax 21 4547815 (General)
                                             21 4546552 (General)
                                             21 4385505
                                             (Controlling + Finance)
                                             21 4524314
                                             (Sales + Marketing)
                                     E-Mail  basfpak@cyber.net.pk
Panama
BASF Panama S.A.                     Tel     265-4224
Edificio Centro Comercial                    265-4223
Plaza Balboa                         Telefax 265-4222
Local 30, Nivel 300                  E-Mail  basfpma@pty.com
Vía Israel, Punta Paitilla
Corregimiento de San Francisco
Ciudad de Panama
Paraguay
BASF Paraguaya S.A.                  Tel     21 498401
Independencia Nacional N° 811        Telefax 21 498403
Esquina Fulgencio R. Moreno
Edificio El Productor – Piso 12 y 14
Casilla de Correo N° 3364
Asunción
                                                                     413
Adresses
Peru
BASF Peruana S.A.           Tel     1 464-7400
Av. Oscar R. Benavides      Telefax 1 464-2940
No. 5915, Callao 1                  (Management)
Casilla 3911                        1 464-6622
Lima 100                            1 464-0302
                                    (Sales and General)
                                    1 4519611
                                    (Prämix)
Philippines
BASF Philippines, Inc.      Tel     49 549-0001
Main Office & Plant (ED)    Telefax 49 549-1026
Road 5, Phase 1 GIZ
Carmelray Industrial Park 1
4028 Canlubang,
Calamba, Laguna
Poland
BASF Polska Sp. z o.o.      BCN     8-762-777 (operator)
Aleje Jerozolimskie 154             8-762-nnn (direct line)
02-326 Warszawa             Tel     22 5709-999 (operator)
                                    22 5709-777 (operator)
                                    22 5709-... (direct line)
                            Telefax 22 5709-599
                            E-Mail  poczta@basf.pl
                            Website www.basf.pl
Portugal
BASF Portuguesa, Lda.       Tel     22 6159600
Rua Manuel Pinto de         Telefax 22 6177520
Azevedo, 626
4100-320 Porto
Apartado 1142
4102-001 Porto Codex
414
                                                          Adresses
Romania
BASF SRL                    BCN       8-772-100 (operator)
155, Calea Victoriei                  8-772-nnn (direct line)
Bl. D1, Tronson 6-7, Et. 6  Tel       21 3134611
71102 Bucuresti-1                     21 3134612
P.O. Box 1-305                        21 3134613
70700 Bucuresti-1           Telefax   21 3100395
                                      21 3100762
                                      it.romania@east-europe.basf.org
                            E-Mail
Russia, Federation
BASF CIS Trading GmbH       BCN       8-770-200 (operator)
Business Center Moskau                8-770-nnn (direct line)
Kadaschewskaja              Tel       503 9569-170 (operator)
Nabereshnaja 14                       503 2317-200
Korp. 3                               503 2317-... (direct line)
119017 Moskau               Telefax   503 9569-174
                                      503 2317-201
Saudi Arabia
Yusuf Bin Ahmed Kanoo       Tel       2 6673
BASF Division                         ext. 507 / 508 / 509
Medina Road km 9            Mobil-Tel 55676970
P.O. Box 812                Telefax   2 6655652 (direkt)
Jeddah 21421                          2 6695801
                                      (Kanoo Zentrale)
                            Telex     601039/1 ybak sj
                            E-Mail    basf@jed.kanoosa.com
Singapore
BASF Singapore Pte. Ltd.    BCN       8-65-3400 (operator)
7 Temasek Boulevard                   8-65-nnnn (direct line)
35-01 Suntec Tower One      Tel       63370330
Singapore 038987            Telefax   63340330
                            Website   www.basf.com.sg
Slovakia
BASF Slovensko spol. s r.o. Tel       2 57101011
Frana Krála 35              Telefax   2 57101066
811 05 Bratislava           Telex     92250 basfb c
                                                                  415
Adresses
Slovenia
BASF Slovenija d.o.o.           BCN     8-7736-0 (operator)
Dunajska cesta 111 a                    8-7736-nn (direct line)
1000 Ljubljana                  Tel     15 897500
                                Telefax 15 685556
South Africa
BASF South Africa               BCN     8-670-9 (operator)
(Pty.) Ltd.                             8-670-nnn (direct line)
Business Center                 Tel     11 2542400
Johannesburg                    Telefax 11 2542431
852 16th Road                           11 2542432
Midrand 1685                            11 2542434
                                        11 2542430 (Managing Dir.)
P.O. Box 2801
Halfway House 1685                      11 3141690 (Human Res.)
Spain
BASF Curtex S.A.                Tel     93 2616100
Carretera del Medio, 219        Telefax 93 2616109
08907 L’Hospitalet de Llobregat
Sri Lanka
BASF-Finlay (Pvt.) Ltd.         Tel     1 423388
Finlay House                            1 423389
186, Vauxhall Street            Telefax 1 431400
Colombo 2                       E-Mail  basfsl@itmin.com
Sweden
BASF AB                         BCN     8-730-800 (operator)
– Plastics Nordic/Baltic                8-730-nnn (direct line)
– Chemicals Nordic/Baltic       Tel     31 639-800
– Coatings & Pigments           Telefax 31 639-900
– Nordic/Baltic                 E-Mail  basf-se@nordic.basf.org
– Detergents & Automotive       Website www.basf.com/nordic
– Nordic/Baltic
– Dispersions Nordic/Baltic
– Salts Nordic/Baltic
Haraldsgatan 5
413 14 Göteborg
416
                                                        Adresses
Switzerland
BASF (Schweiz) AG           BCN     8-750-111 (operator)
Appital                             8-750-nnn (direct line)
Postfach 99                 Tel     1 7819-111
8820 Wädenswil/Au           Telefax 1 7819-388
                            E-Mail  info@basf.ch
                            Website www.basf.ch
Syrian Arab Republic        Tel.    (21) 27 38 12,
Obégi Chemicals S.A.S.      Tel     21 4469731
Old El Bab Road                     21 4469732
Nakkarin Area               Telefax 21 4469540
B.P. 89                     E-Mail  chemalep@net.sy
Alep
Taiwan
BASF Taiwan Ltd.            BCN     8-695-9 (operator)
Empire Building, 16th floor         8-695-nnn (direct line)
No. 87, Sung Chiang Road    Tel     2 25187600
P.O. Box 3134                       2 25068131
Taipei, Taiwan                      3 4502113 (factory)
                            Telefax 2 25061554
                                    2 25187700
                            Telex   21649 basftwan
                            E-Mail  admin@basf-taiwan.com.tw
                            Website www.basf-taiwan.com.tw
Thailand
BASF (Thai) Ltd.            Tel     2 6649222
Main Office                 Telefax 2 6649221
23rd floor, Emporium Tower  E-Mail  basf@samart.co.th
622 Sukhumvit Road
Klongton, Klongtoey
Bangkok 10110
G.P.O. Box 1283
Tunisia
BASF Tunisie S.A.           Tel     71 425488
Z.I. Saint Gobain           Telefax 71 425043
2033 Mégrine-Tunis                  71 426120
                                    71 427215
                                    71 427713
                            E-Mail  basf.tunisie@basf-tunisie.com
                                                                417
Adresses
Turkey
BASF Türk               Tel     212 2516500-10 pbx
Kimya Sanayi ve Ticaret         212 2510037
Ltd. Sti.                       212 2510041
Defterdar Yokusu No. 3          212 2494212
80040 Tophane-lstanbul  Telefax 212 2441673
P.K. 424                        212 2510064
80004 Karaköy-Istanbul
Ukraine
Repräsentanz der BASF   BCN     8-776-200 (operator)
CIS GmbH in der Ukraine         8-776-nnn (direct line)
ul. Patrisa Lumumby 4/6         8-776-240 (Central telefax)
5. + 6. Etage
01042 Kiew
United Arab Emirates
BASF FZE                Tel     4 8838773
Business Center Dubai   Telefax 4 8838675
Jebel Ali Free Zone             4 8836787
P.O. Box 61309          E-Mail  basfkanoo@west-asia.basf.org
Dubai
United Kingdom
BASF plc                BCN     8-33-5983 (operator)
P.O. Box 4                      8-33-nnnn (direct line)
Earl Road               Tel     161 4856222
Cheadle Hulme                   161 488-.... (direct line)
Cheadle                 Telefax 161 4860891
Cheshire SK8 6QG        Telex   664006 basf g
Uruguay
BASF Uruguaya S.A.      Tel     2 3551414
Camino Ariel 4620               2 3553183
12900 Montevideo                2 3553184
Casilla Correo 1925     Telefax 2 3558868
11000 Montevideo                2 3558869
                        Telex   22357 basf uy
418
                                                         Adresses
USA
BASF Corporation                 BCN     8-472-1111 (operator)
Wyandotte Site                           8-472-nnnn (direct line)
1609 Biddle Avenue               Tel     734 324-6000
Wyandotte, Michigan 48192
Uzbekistan
BASF Agency in Usbekistan        Tel     712 548250
Beethovenstraße 3                        712 545737
700064 Taschkent                         712 548472
                                         712 541879
                                 Telefax 711 206231
                                 E-Mail  furkat@basf.com.uz
Venezuela
BASF Venezolana, S.A.            Tel     212 256-3430
Multicentro Macaracuay,                  212 256-4582
Piso 10                          Telefax 212 256-3379
Avenida Principal de                     212 256-0580
Macaracuay
Macaracuay, Caracas 1070
Apartados 70316 y 70317
Caracas 1071-A
Vietnam
Resident Representative          Tel     8 8243833
Main                             Telefax 8 8243832
Office of BASF Singapore         E-Mail  basf_hcmc@hcm.vnn.vn
Pte. Ltd.
Saigon Trade Center, # 1701-1711
37, Ton Duc Thang Street
Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City
Yemen
M. S. G. Elsoffary & Sons        Tel     1 218042
BASF Division                    Telefax 1 218042
P. O. Box 2142                   Telex   2282 sofary ye
Sanaa
                                                                  419
Adresses
Yugoslavia
BASF Aktiengesellschaft      BCN     8-7733-100 (operator)
Predstavnistvo u Jugoslaviji         8-7733-nnn (direct line)
Djure Djakovica 78           Tel     11 772-999
11000 Beograd                Telefax 11 751743
Zimbabwe
HiServe Chemicals (Pvt) Ltd. Tel     4 310162/3/4
10 Kenmark Crescent          Telefax 4 331168
Bluff Hill Industrial Park
Faber Road
Harare
420
                                            Adresses
Dialing code
for use from Germany to other countries.
Algeria                              00213
Angola                               00244
Argentine                            0054
Australia                            0061
Austria                              0043
Bahrein                              00973
Bangladesh                           00880
Barbados                             001809
Belarus                              007
Belgium                              0032
Bolivia                              00591
Brazil                               0055
Brunei                               00673
Bulgaria                             00359
Canada                               001
Chile                                0056
China                                0086
Colombia                             0057
Costa Rica                           00506
Croatia                              0038
Cuba                                 0053
Czech Republic                       0042
Denmark                              0045
Dominican Republic                   001809
Ecuador                              00593
Egypt                                0020
El Salvador                          00503
Estonia                              00372
Ethiopia                             00251
Finland                              00358
France                               0033
Ghana                                00233
Greece                               0030
Guatemala                            00502
                                                 421
Adresses
Haiti        00509
Honduras     00504
Hongkong     00852
Hungary      0036
India        0091
Indonesia    0062
Iran         0098
Iraq         00964
Ireland      00353
Israel       00972
Italy        0039
Ivory Coast  00225
Jamaica      001809
Japan        0081
Jordan       00962
Kazakhstan   007
Kenya        00254
Korea, South 0082
Kuwait       00965
Latvia       00371
Lebanon      00961
Liberia      00231
Lithuania    00370
Macedonia    00389
Malawi       00265
Malaysia     0060
Malta        00356
Mauritius    00230
Mexico       0052
Morocco      00212
Myanmar      0095
Nepal        00977
Netherlands  0031
New Zealand  0064
Nicaragua    00505
Nigeria      00234
Norway       0047
422
                            Adresses
Oman                 00968
Pakistan             0092
Panama               00507
Papua, New Guinea    00675
Paraguay             00595
Peru                 0051
Philippines          0063
Poland               0048
Portugal             00351
Puerto Rico          001
Qatar                00974
Romania              0040
Russ. Federation     007
Saudi Arabia         00966
Singapore            0065
Slovakian Republic   0042
Slovenia             00386
South Africa         0027
Spain                0034
Sri Lanka            0094
Sweden               0046
Switzerland          0041
Syrian Arab Republic 00963
Taiwan               00886
Thailand             0066
Trinidad & Tobago    001809
Tunisia              00216
Turkey               0090
Ukraine              007
United Arab Emirates 00971
United Kingdom       0044
Uruguay              00598
USA                  001
Uzbekistan           007
Venezuela            0058
Vietnam              0084
                                 423
Adresses
Yemen      00967
Yugoslavia 0038
Zimbabwe   00263
424
                                                               Index
Abrasion resistance                                               230
Absolute air humidity                                             170
Absorption                                                  150; 367
Absorption rate                                                   167
Acetic acid                                             72f; 79f; 359
Acetic acid, density of                                          378f
Achromatic point                                                  153
Acid dyes                                                         155
Acid-forming vegetable tanning materials                           86
Acid value                                            126; 133f; 142
Acrylic binders                                            180; 183f
Activated sludge                                                  308
Adaptation                                                        308
Addresses                                                        400f
Adhesion                                             246f; 254; 264
Adsorption                                                        367
Affinity                                                          126
Air-blast dedusting machine                                       171
Airborne emissions                                               306f
Air-dry                                                           367
Air-drying                                               36; 48; 169
Air humidity                                                      170
Air humidity, production of                                       365
Alanine                                                             19
Albumines                                                          24
ALCA analytical methods                                           232
Aldehyde tanning agents                                 82; 119; 297
Aliphatic tanning materials                                       113
Alkalis                                                58; 257; 369f
Alkyl aryl sulfonates                                             129
Alkyl sulfates                                                    129
Alkyl sulfonates                                                  129
Aluminium                                83; 85; 228; 304; 355; 359
Aluminium chloride                                            97; 359
Aluminium sulfate                                             97; 359
Aluminium tanning agents                                     94f; 277
American degrees of hardness                                       51
Amino acids                                                        18f
Amino groups                                             18; 75; 277
Ammonia, density of                                               370
Ammonia nitrogen                                                  304
Ammonium bicarbonate                                              110
Ammonium chloride                                             73; 359
Ammonium chloride, density of                                     384
                                                                  425
Index
Ammonium sulfate                    72f; 359; 384
Ammonium sulfate, density of                  384
Amollan E                                     197
Amollan IP                               163; 197
Amollan VC                                    198
Amollan Lustre VN                             198
Ampere                                        313
Analytical strength                           126
Analytics, dimensions                         271
Animal fats                                   131
Animal oils                                   131
Antelope skins                                 45
AOX                                289; 305; 308
AOX-free                          137f; 148; 297
Apparent density                         233; 239
Area yield                                    281
Arginine                                       19
Aromatic ether                                114
ASA leather                                   205
Ash                          126; 227; 232f; 237
Asparagine                                     19
Aspartic acid                                  19
Astacin Finish ARU TF                        189f
Astacin Finish PF TF                         190f
Astacin Finish PFM TF                        190f
Astacin Finish PUD                           189f
Astacin Finish PUM                           189f
Astacin Finish PUMN TF                       189f
Astacin Finish PW TF                         189f
Astacin Finish SUSI TF                       189f
Astacin Ground UH TF                         189f
Astacin Hardener CN                           196
Astacin Matting MA TF                         193
Astacin Matting MT                            193
Astacin Matting MTB                           193
Astacin Top GA TF                             193
Astacin Top LH TF                             193
Astacin Top UT                                193
ASTM methods                            232f; 272
Astringency                                   126
Atomic bond                                    82
Atomic weight                                355f
Auxiliary tanning agents             82; 103; 120
Automotive leather                      211f; 281
426
                                                            Index
Back                                                            25
Bacteria proteases                                              74
Barium sulfate                                      122; 177; 359
Barkometer                                                     352
Barks                                                           87
Barrigas                                                        34
Bascal S                                        70f; 79; 101; 218f
Base coating agents                                            183
BASF Representatives                                           402
Basic colours                                                  151
Basic constituents of synthetic tanning agents                 114
Basic dyes                                                     161
Basicity                                                  98f; 232
Basicity increase                                               98
Basicity reduction                                              99
Basozym 1000                                               75; 219
Basozym C 10                                                    75
Basozym CS 10                                              75; 220
Basozym L 10                                                    69
Basozym S 20                                                    59
Bastamol B                                                     163
Bastamol DRN                                              163; 226
Bastamol K                                            93; 120; 122
Bastards                                                        43
Basyntan AN                                                    115
Basyntan ANF Liquid                                            115
Basyntan AN Liquid                                             115
Basyntan D                                                115; 121
Basyntan D Liquid                                              220
Basyntan DLE                                              115; 220
Basyntan DLE-T Liquid                                          115
Basyntan DLX-N                                            105; 116
Basyntan E                                                 95; 220
Basyntan FC                                    112; 116; 121f; 220
Basyntan I                                                 93; 116
Basyntan IZ                                                93; 116
Basyntan MLB                                                   116
Basyntan MLB Liquid                                            116
Basyntan N                                                 93; 116
Basyntan RS-3                                              93; 116
Basyntan SL                                                    116
Basyntan TM Liquid                                         93; 115
Basyntan SW Liquid                                        106; 117
                                                               427
Index
Basyntan WL                  117; 122
Basyntan WL Liquid                117
Basyntan X                        117
Bating                             74f
Bating agents                      74f
Bating effect                      74
Baumé                            352f
Becerros                           34
Beef tallow                       134
Bees wax                          134
Belly                        25f; 236
Bend                          25; 236
Big Packers                        33
Binders, BASF                    183f
Binders, thermoplastic            180
Binding capacity              54; 126
Binding rate                      126
Binding strength                  126
Biochemical Oxygen Demand   289; 308
Biological fatty substances  131; 143
Birch tar oil                     206
Blankit AN                        219
Blankit IN                        219
Bleach-tanning agents        113; 122
Bleaching                        121f
Bleaching auxiliaries             122
Bleaching methods                 122
Bleeding                          176
Blood vessels                       17
BOD                         304; 308
Books                            390f
Borax                       110f; 359
Boric acid                   72f; 359
Box calf                          205
Box side                    205; 281
Branded Bulls                      33
Branded Cows                       33
Breaking                           58
Breaking load                     239
Bridge linkages in proteins        20
Brightening dyes                  176
Bromocresol green                274f
Brush staining                    164
BS standards (British)            272
428
                                                       Index
Buffalo                                             38f; 212f
Buffalo butts                                              39
Buffalo calves                                             39
Buffalo hides                                             38f
Buffering capacity                                         71
Buffing machine, through-feed type                        171
Bulls                                                     30f
Butadiene binders                                         177
Butchers                                                   37
Butt                                                      25f
Butt Branded Steers                                        33
Butt edge                                                  25
Cabras                                                     34
Cabrillonas                                                34
Cabritos                                                   34
Calcium chloride                                    68; 359f
Calcium formate                                101; 110; 360
Calcium hydroxide                                63 ;71; 360
Calcium salts                                       50f; 359f
Calf skins                                                30f
Camel hides                                                45
Candela                                                  313f
Cape hides                                                 36
Carbonate hardness                                         50
Carboxyl group                                       18; 277
Carnauba wax                                             131f
Case-hardening                                            126
Casein                                                   174f
Casein-free pigment preparations                          178
Castor oil                                               131f
Catalysts                                                  74
Cationic fatliquors                                139f; 222
Cattle hides                                              30f
Cattle, sheep, goat, pig and horse inventories             46
Caustic soda solution, density of                        369
Celsius                                            316; 348f
Ceresin                                                   134
Chamois leather                                           83f
Charge indicator                                         276
Charge relations                                         277
Cheek                                                      25
Chemical compounds                                       359
Chemical elements                                        355
                                                          429
Index
Chemical oxygen demand                            289; 308
Chivos                                                   34
Chromatic triangle for colour matching                  151
Chrome alum                                        96f; 360
Chrome tanning agents                                    94f
Chromitan B                                        94f; 220
Chromitan FM                                       94f; 220
Chromitan FMS                                            94f
Chromitan MSN                                            94f
Chromium acetate                                         97
Chromium chloride                                  97; 360
Chromium sulfate                                   97f; 360
Chromium-IV-compounds                                  101f
Chromosa                                                 40
CIE chromaticity diagram                                  11
CIELAB colour system                                    154
CIELAB total colour space                               154
Classification of reptile skins                          45
Cleansing agents                                        268
Clothing leather                             205; 244f; 215
Coarsewools                                              36
Coconut oil                                             134
COD                                                    304f
Cod liver oil                                          131f
Cold crack resistance                                   231
Cold crack temperature                                  182
Cold flex resistance                                   185f
Collagen                                                 22f
Collectors                                               33
Colorado Side Branded Steers                             33
Colour spectrum                                         150
Colouring by roll coater                                164
Combination tannages                                     84
Combination tanning agent                                95
Combings                                                 36
Comebacks                                                42
Commercial classification of hides and skins             30f
Commercial grades of moistness                          367
Commercial terms, abbreviations                        394f
Compact binders                                        186f
Complex bond                                             82
Complexing agents                                      220f
Concentration                                           127
Concentration tables                              65f; 369f
430
                                                          Index
Condensable tanning materials                                 86
Connective tissue                                             17
Consistency-regulating materials                              60
Conversion factors, curing stages                           280
Conversion tables, physical units                           320f
Corial Binder AS                                    60; 69; 183f
Corial Binder BAN                                           183f
Corial Binder BU                                             192
Corial Binder DN                                            183f
Corial Binder IF                                            183f
Corial Binder OBN                                           183f
Corial Binder ON                                            183f
Corial Binder OK                                            183f
Corial Binder OT                                            183f
Corial EM Base Black DK                                      179
Corial EM Finish Black                                       179
Corial EM Finish G                                           194
Corial EM Finish ES                                          194
Corial EM Finish KN                                          194
Corial EM Finish M                                           195
Corial EM Top SL                                             195
Corial Hardener AZ                                           196
Corial Lacquer AW                                            195
Corial Matt Lacquer CMR                                      195
Corial Matt Lacquer NW                                       195
Corial Microbinder AM                                       183f
Corial Wax EBT                                               199
Corial Wax EG                                                199
Corial Wax G                                                 199
Corial Wax H                                                 199
Corial Wax S                                                 199
Corial Wax SV                                                199
Corial Wax TA                                                199
Corium                                                        17
Corneous layer                                                17
Corrected grain side leather                                281
Cortex                                                        17
Cortymol BAC                                                 218
Cotton seed oil                                             131f
Country Locker Butcher                                        33
Country Mixed Lots                                            33
Country Ware                                                  33
Courses of reaction in the production of fatliquors          144
Cow calves                                                    39
                                                             431
Index
Cows                                                  30f
Cross-linking agents                                 196
Cross-linking reactions                               82
Crossbreds                                            36
Crude rubber crepe                                   262
Curing                                                48f
Curtain coater                                       203
Cutis                                                  17
Cystein                                                19
Cystine                                               18f
Danger labels according to IMDG code                293f
Danger symbols                                       292
Dangerous goods                                     287f
Dangerous goods (GefStoffV)                          292
Decaltal A-N                                          70f
Decaltal ES-N Liquid                                  70f
Decaltal N                                 70f; 78f; 101
Decaltal N Liquid                               70f; 79f
Decaltal R                                            70f
Decimal multiples                                    314
Deer skins                                            45
Defoamer                                             197
Degradability                                        309
Degreasing methods                                    76
Degreasing temperatures                               76
Degree of damage                                     265
Degree of sulfonation                                141
Degree of tannage                        127; 239; 242f
Deliming                                              70f
Deliming agents                                       70f
Deliming value                                         71
Denaturing                                            48
Denitrification                                      309
Density                                             369f
Density tables                                      369f
Densodrin CD                                         148
Densodrin EN                                   148; 222
Densodrin ENS                                        148
Densodrin OF                                   148; 222
Densodrin S                                          149
Densodrin SI                                   149; 222
Densodrin PS                                         149
Densotan A                           117; 149; 162; 226
432
                                                 Index
Depilation                                           60f
Depth of shade                                     164f
Desorption                                          367
Detergents                                          268
Determination of areas                              339
Determination of chrome                             238
Determination of volumes                            340
Diagram of hide sections                             25f
Diagram of hide sections for the tanner              26
Dialing codes                                      421f
Difference value                                    238
Dihydroxydiphenyl sulfone                           114
Diluents                                           200f
DIN methods                             141; 227f; 253f
Discharge of effluents, regulations                304f
Disinfection                                         48f
Dispersion                                          366
Disulfide bridge                                     21f
Dolphin oil                                         131
Domestic cattle hides                                30
Donkey                                               31
Dose (D)                                            295
Drum                                                 56
Drum dyeing                                        150f
Drum painting                                        60
Drum, determination of volume                       342
Drum, r.p.m.                                        344
Dry adhesion                                  185f; 264
Dry cleaning                                        261
Dry degreasing                                       76
Dry fatliquoring                                    136
Dry finishing, machines                             171
Dry flex                                           185f
Dry rub fastness                              261; 265
Dry weight                                         278f
Dry-drumming                                         58
Dry-salted weight                                  278f
Dry-salting                                          48
Dry solids                                          367
Drying                                              169
Drying methods for leather                          169
Drying oils                                         131
Dumping site                                        309
Dust                                                309
                                                    433
Index
Dye solution                                      256
Dyeing                                           150f
Dyeing auxiliaries                          162f; 226
Dyeing high quality leathers, parameters         165f
Dyeing methods                                    164
Dyeing parameters                                 165
Dyeing temperature                                167
Dyes causing little or no colouring of wool       225
Dyes with good penetration                        161
Dyes, classes of                                  255
Dyes, classification of                           155
Dyes, homogeneity of                              255
Dyes, solubility of                               255
Earth colours                                     177
EDTA                                               54
Egg oil                                           134
Egg yolk                                          134
Einwohnergleichwert                               309
Elasticity                                        266
Elastin                                            24
Elementary fibres                                   18
Elongation at break                              239f
Emissions                                        297f
Emulsified proportion of fat                      141
Emulsifiers                                      129f
Emulsifying proportion of fat                     141
Emulsion                                          366
Emulsion types                                   129f
Energy                                      282; 315;
Energy flow                                       320
English degrees of hardness                        51f
Environmental protection                         285f
Environmental protection, basic terms            308f
Enzymatic liming process                           62
Enzyme unit                                        75
Enzyme value                                       75
Epidermis                                           17
Epithelial tissue                                   17
Ester linkage bridges                              21
Ester value                                       142
Esterification                                    144
Eukesolar Dyes (Powder)                           223
Eukesolar Dyes 150 Liquid                         176
434
                                                   Index
Eukesol Brilliant Black HSN                           179
Eukesol Oil Ground                                    198
Eukesol Oil 4070                                      198
Eukesol Oil 4080                                      198
Eukesol Oil HP                                        198
Eukesol Oil SLP                                       198
Eukesol Oil SR                                        198
Eukesol Wax SFB                                       199
Eusapon A Conc.                                       226
Eusapon LPK-E                                         219
Eusapon P                                             219
Eusapon S                       59; 68; 77; 130; 163; 218
Eusapon W                               59; 130; 163; 219
Ex-Light Native Steers                                 33
Extra Lights                                           36
Extractable substances                                237
Extremes                                               34
Face                                                   25
Fahrenheit                                            348
Fastness properties of binders                       184f
Fastness to acids                                     256
Fastness to alkali                                    257
Fastness to buffing                                   262
Fastness to diffusion                                 262
Fastness to dry and wet rubbing                  261; 265
Fastness to dry cleaning                              261
Fastness to fatliquors                                258
Fastness to formaldehyde                              258
Fastness to hot ironing                               267
Fastness to hot plating                               246
Fastness to hot steaming                              267
Fastness to light                                     263
Fastness to perspiration                              260
Fastness to solvents                                  260
Fastness to washing                                   259
Fastness to water                                     259
Fastness to water spotting                            259
Fat solvents                                           76
Fat tail sheep skins                                   36
Fatliquor range of BASF                              137f
Fatliquoring                                         131f
Fatliquoring auxiliaries                              140
Fatliquoring substances                              131f
                                                      435
Index
Fatliquors, structure of                                             143
Fatty substances, characteristic values                             132f
Female goat skins                                                     31
Fibre bundle                                                           18
Fibres                                                                 18
Fibril                                                                17f
Fibrous proteins                                                      24
Fibrous structure of true skin                                         18
Filling                                                             184f
Film properties                                                     183f
Film values                                                          181
Fineness of grain                                               79; 185f
Finish, general structure of                                         175
Finishes, classification of                                         173f
Finishing                                                           173f
Finishing auxiliaries of BASF                                        196
Finishing effect                                                     174
Finishing technique                                                  173
Fish skins                                                            44
Fixation                                                      121f; 168
Fixed tannin                                                        238f
Fixing agents                                                 122; 162f
Flank                                                          25f; 236
Flash point                                                         295
Fleshing machine                                                     124
Flexing endurance                                                   266
Float length                                                         167
Flocculation point                                                   127
Flocculation value                                                   127
Foal                                                                  31
Foam                                                                366
Foam finish                                                          173
Fogging test                                                        270
Football leather                                                    245
Force                                                               315f
Fore and hind shanks                                                  25
Formic acid                                   73; 79; 99; 168; 219; 360
Formic acid, density of                                             372f
Formulae for determining areas and perimeters                       339
Formulae for determining volumes                                    340
Freiberger basicity                                                   98
French degrees of hardness                                            51f
Fruits                                                                89
Furniture leather                                       205; 213f; 249f
436
                                                            Index
Gallons and litres, conversion table                          331f
Gelatine                                                       302
German degree of hardness                                       51f
Glass transition temperature                                   182
Glazed kid                                                     205
Globular proteins                                               24
Globulines                                                      24
Glossary of terms relating to tanning and tanning agents       126
Glove leather                                                  244
Glutamic acid                                                   19f
Glutamine                                                        19
Glycine                                                         18f
Goats                                                           46
Goat skins                                                      30f
Grain                                                            17
Grams (g) and ounces (oz), conversion table                    335
Granulous layer                                                  17
Grassers                                                        35
Grasser skins                                                   30
Gravimetric test                                              270
Greasy handle                                                 137f
Green weight                                             30f; 278f
Ground nut oil                                                131f
Growths                                                         90
Hair                                                             17
Hair bulb                                                       69
Hair cuticle                                                     17
Hair papilla                                                     17
Hair root                                                        17
Hair root immunization                                          69
Hair shaft, cross-section of                                     17
Hair sheep                                                      40
Hair-saving liming system                                  62; 69
Half back                                                       26
Half-drying oils                                               131
Hardeners                                                      196
Hardness, conversion of degrees of                              51f
Harness leather                                                 75
Hat sweat band leather                                         245
Head                                                            25f
Heat flow                                                     315f
Heat flow rate                                                 338
Heat transfer resistance                                       338
                                                               437
Index
Heat, quantity of                                               319f
Heavies                                                           36
Heavy Native Cows                                                 33
Heavy Native Steers                                               33
Heidschnucke                                                      31
“Heifer” goatskins                                                31
Heifers                                                           30
Herring oil                                                     131f
Hide powder                                                     126f
Histidine                                                         19
Hofmeister series                                                 23
Horse grease                                                    131f
Horse hides                                                       30
Hydrochloric acid                                  72f; 79f; 99; 361
Hydrochloric acid, density of                                   381f
Hydrogen bridge linkage                                           22
Hydrogen sulfide hazards                                         307
Hydrolizable tanning materials                                    86
Hydrophilic components                                           143
Hydrophobic (non-polar) bridge linkage                            22
Hydrophobic components                                           143
Hydroxylysine                                                     19
Hydroxyethylated products                                        129
Hydroxyproline                                                    20
Ignition temperature                                             307
Immergan A                                       108; 119; 139; 222
Immissions                                                       309
Immission value                                                  309
Immunization                                                  62; 69
Implenal AP                                                101; 220
Implenal DC Liquid                                               101
Implenal DN                                                      101
Inches and millimetres, conversion table                         324
Indicators                                                      273f
Indirect discharge of effluents, regulations                    304f
Information                                                     400f
Inner fibre surface area                                          18
Inorganic pigments                                              177f
Insole leather                                             206; 243
Insolubles                                                       127
Instigator responsibility principle                              310
Interfacial tension                                              147
International commercial terms, abbreviations of                394f
438
                                                     Index
International Fastness Union                            252
Iodine colour value                                     142
Iodine value                                            142
Ion exchange resins                                      53
Ionic charge                                      141; 276
Ionic linkage                                            22
Iron                                                    356
Irreversible stabilization                               81
Isoelectric point                                       277
Isoleucine                                                19
ISO standards                                           272
IUC methods                                             227
IUC, IUP and IUF methods, suppliers of                  272
IUF test methods                                        253
IUP methods                                             229
Japan wax                                               134
Journals                                                393
Kangaroo skins
Kaolin                                                   69
Kelvin                                                  313
Keratin                                            22f; 218
Kids                                                     35f
Kid skins                                                31f
Kilogram                                               131f
Kilograms (kg) and pounds (lbs), conversion table      334f
Kips                                                     36f
Lactic acid                                        72f; 79f
Lamb skins                                               35f
Land animal oils                                        131
Lead sulfate                                            122
Leather analysis                                       227f
Leather dyeings, testing of                            258f
Leather dyes, testing of                               255f
Leather fatliquoring agents, testing of                 140
Leather fatliquoring methods                            136
Leather fatliquoring products, classification of        136
Leather Ground F                                       183f
Leather market                                           32f
Leather production costs                                282
Leather substance in ounces                             325
Leather testing                                        227f
                                                        439
Index
Leaves                            90
Lepton Binder GC                186f
Lepton Binder LF                186f
Lepton Binder NA                186f
Lepton Binder PA                186f
Lepton Binder SD                186f
Lepton Binder SPC               186f
Lepton colours                  178f
Lepton Filler AF                 198
Lepton Filler CEN                196
Lepton Filler FCG                196
Lepton Filler H                  196
Lepton Filler K                  196
Lepton Matting MF                196
Lepton Matting T                 193
Lepton Paste VL                  198
Lepton Top HT                    194
Lepton Top LB                    194
Lepton Wax 11                    197
Lepton Wax 16                    197
Lepton Wax 20                    197
Lepton Wax A                     197
Lepton Wax B                     197
Lepton Wax P60                   197
Lepton Wax CS                    199
Lepton Wax WA                    199
Leucine                            19
Levelling power                  259
Light fastness        249f; 263; 267
Light leather                    244
Light Native Cows                 33
Light Native Steers               33
Lights                            36
Liming                            60f
Liming auxiliaries                68f
Lime dissolving value              71
Lining leather        206; 243; 248f
Linseed oil                     131f
Lipamin Liquor NO           139; 222
Lipamin Liquor SO           139; 222
Lipamin OK             130; 140; 163
Lipoderm Liquor A1          137; 221
Lipoderm Liquor 1C               137
Lipoderm Liquor CMG              139
440
                                                                Index
Lipoderm Liquor FP                                                 138
Lipoderm Liquor LA                                            137; 221
Lipoderm Liquor PN                                            137; 221
Lipoderm Liquor PSE                                           138; 221
Lipoderm Liquor SAF                                                138
Lipoderm Liquor SC                                                 139
Lipoderm Liquor SLW                                                138
Lipoderm Liquor SOL                                                138
Lipoderm Liquor WF                                            137; 221
Lipoderm N                                         130; 140; 163; 226
Lipoderm Oil N1                                                    139
Liquids, combustible                                               291
Litres and gallons (Imp. and US), conversion table                331f
Load value                                                         310
Loading agents                                                     122
Löhlein-Volhard                                                     75
Longs                                                               36
Lubricants                                                          69
Luganil Dyes                                           156f; 161; 225
Luganil Dyes Liquid                                               158f
Luganil Dyes Powder                                               156f
Lurazol Dyes                                                 159f; 225
Lurazol Fur D Dyes                                                 224
Lurazol Fur E Dyes                                                 224
Luron Binder U                                                     192
Luron Lustre CO                                                    192
Luron Lustre E                                                     192
Luron Lustre TE                                                    192
Luron Matting                                                      192
Luron Top                                                          192
Luron Top AC                                                       192
Lutan BN                                                      95f; 220
Lutan CRN                                                     95f; 220
Lutan DZ                                                            95
Lutan FN                                                      95f; 221
Lutensol ON 30                                                     226
Lysine                                                              19f
Macromolecules                                                       18
Magnesium                                                          356
Magnesium oxide                                               98f; 361
Magnesium salts                                     23; 50f; 238; 361f
Magnesium sulfate                                        50f; 122; 361
Main drain                                                    299; 310
                                                                   441
Index
Maize oil                                      131f
MAK value                                       295
Male goat skins                                  31
Mamones                                          34
Marine animal oils                              131
Masking                                        100f
Masking agents                                 100f
Materials required for leather production       283
Matting agents                                  193
Maximum air humidity                            170
Measures                                        313
Meatworks                                        42
Mediums                                          36
Medulla                                           17
Melanine                                         24
Menhaden oil                                   131f
Merino sheep skins                          36; 42f
Metamerism                                 154; 213
Methionine                                        19
Methoxypropanol                                 200
Metre                                     313; 322f
Metres and yards, conversion table              323
Microfibrils                                      18
Migration fastness                        178; 247f
Milk lambs                                       35
Milk of lime                                     63
Millimetres and inches, conversion table        324
Mineral colours                                 178
Mineral matter                                 140f
Mineral oils                                    131
Mineral tannage                                  94f
Mineral tanning agents                           94f
Mineral tanning agents, amounts required         96
Mineral tanning salts                            97f
Mixer                                            56
Mixtures of substances, definition of           366
Modifiers                                       199
Moistness                                       367
Moisture contents of leather                    170
Mol                                             313
Molecular weight                               359f
Mollescal AB                                     68
Mollescal AGN                               69; 103
Mollescal BW                                     59
442
                                                                 Index
Mollescal C Conc.                                                    59
Mollescal HW                                                    59; 69
Mollescal MF                                                    61; 68f
Mollescal PA Liquid                                                  68f
Mollescal LS                                                    62; 68
Mollescal SF                                                         61
Montan wax                                                         131f
Mould fungus proteases                                               74
Mucous layer                                                          17
Mule                                                                 31
Naphthalene                                                         114
Naphthol                                                            114
Native Bulls                                                         33
Native hides                                                         33
Neatsfoot oil                                                      131f
Neck                                                                 25
Neutralization                                                     109f
Neutralizing agents of BASF                                         112
Neutralizing agents, comparison table                               111
Neutralizing agents, general                                        110
Neutral salt content                                                 74
Neutrigan                                                99f; 111f; 221
Neutrigan MON                                                       103
Nitrification                                                       310
Nominal diameters, pressure reducers and water separators           345
Nonatos                                                              34
Non-biological fatty substances                                     131
Non-carbonate hardness                                               50
Non-drying oils                                                     131
Non-phenolic tanning agents                                         113
Non-tans                                                            127
Normal dry state                                                    367
Normal moist state                                                  367
Novillitos                                                           34
Novillos                                                             34
Numbering system                                                    252
Oil tanned leather                                                  108
Oil tanning agents                                                  119
Oils and fats, composition of                                      145f
Olation                                                             127
Oleophobic                                                          147
Olive oil                                                          131f
                                                                    443
Index
Opening up of the skin                                     60f
Ordinaries                                                 37
Organic substance                                    140; 237
Ostrich skins                                              45
Ounces (oz) and grams (g), conversion table               335
Oxalic acid                                      79f; 99; 362
Oxalic acid, density                                      383
Oxen                                                       30f
Oxidation bleach                                          121
Oxidation dyes                                            155
Oxidative liming                                           61
Paddle                                                     58
Paddle dyeing                                             164
Paddle, determination of volume of                        341
Painting auxiliaries                                       68
Painting process                                           60
Palm oil                                                 131f
Pancreas proteases                                         74
Panzer-Niebuer                                            141
Papillary layer                                             17
Paraffin oil                                              134
Peccary                                                    44
Pelt                                                       28
Pelts, production of                                       57
Pelt ready for tanning                                     57
Pelt weight                                               279
Penetration                                              185f
Penetration of dyes                                  161; 258
Penetration time, waterproofness test                     240
Penetrators                                               197
Penetrometer                                              240
Peptide bonds                                               18
Percentage of effluents obtained                          303
Percentage of fatty acids in some oils and fats           146
Percentage of tans in total solubles                      127
Permanent hardness                                         50
Peroxide value                                            142
Persians                                                   36
pH value                                                 273f
pH value, determination of                           228; 273
Phase                                                     366
Phenol                                          114; 304; 362
Phenolic tanning agents                                   113
444
                                                     Index
Phenylalanine                                            19
Phlobaphene-forming tanning materials                    86
Phosphorus                                        228; 357
Picaltal Flakes                                         78f
Pickled lamb pelts                                       43
Pickled sheep skins                                      43
Pickling                                                78f
Pickling acids                                           79
Pig skins                                                44
Pigments                                               177f
Pigs                                                     46
Pinhole                                                 43f
Plasticizers                                            181
Plate release agents                                   196f
Poisoning                                         296; 307
Polishability                                          268
Pollution                                          61; 310
Polyacids                                                94
Polybases                                                94
Polymer binders, basic substances for                   182
Polymer tanning agents                                 117f
Polymethaphosphate                                      101
Polyurethane binders                              180; 189f
Potash alum                                        97; 362
Potassium dichromate                               97; 102
Pounds (lbs) and kilograms (kg), conversion table      334
Power                                                  315f
p.p.m.                                                   51
Preparation of reduced chrome liquors                  101f
Preparation of sample for analysis                     234f
Pressure                                               315f
Pressure reducer                                       345
Pretanning agents                                       115
Primary sludge                                         301
Principal valence linkage                                21
Products reducing swelling                               68
Proline                                                  20
Proteases                                                74
Protectol KLC 50                                         49
Proteides                                                24
Protofibril                                              17
Pull-up effect                                         198f
Pull-up oils and waxes                                 198f
Pure dye content                                       255
                                                        445
Index
Pure tan                                     85; 127
Pyrocatechol tanning materials                    86
Pyrogallol tanning materials                      86
Quality requirements                       165; 242f
Quality requirements, provisional               246f
Rabbit skins                                      45
Railway traffic regulation                       291
Rape oil                                         131
Raw hide and transparent leather                 245
Raw hides and skins, production of                46
Raw skin                                          17f
Rawstock                                          28f
Rawstock, commercial classification of            30
Rawstock, international market                    32f
Rawstock inventories                              46
Réaumur                                          348
Recovery of wastes                               302
Recycling                                        310
Reduced chrome liquors                           101
Reducing agents                                  102
Reduction bleach                                 121
Reflection                                  150; 270
Reflectometric measurement                       270
Regulation on Dangerous Goods                   291f
Rejects                                           32
Relative air humidity                            170
Relugan AME                                      117
Relugan D                                        118
Relugan DLF                                      118
Relugan DLF Liquid                               118
Relugan GT 24                          106; 119; 221
Relugan GT 50                          106; 119; 221
Relugan GTP                                 106; 119
Relugan GTW                                 106; 119
Relugan GX                             106; 119; 221
Relugan RE                                  106; 117
Relugan RF                             107; 118; 221
Relugan RV                              93; 107; 118
Relugan S                                        118
Relugan SE                                  107; 118
Renderers                                         33
Replacement tanning agents                   82; 113
446
                               Index
Reptiles                            44
Residual fat content              141
Resin tanning agents               118
Resistance to abrasion            269
Resistance to ageing              269
Resistance to detergents          268
Resistance to hot air             267
Resistance to solvents            268
Resistance to swelling            265
Retanning                         113f
Reticular layer                     17
Risk                              290
Risk phrases                      287
Roll coater                       204
Rongalit C                        224
Roots                               90
Rub fastness tester              261f
Rules of mixing                   354
Safety Data Sheets               285f
Salted weight                    278f
Salt-free short-time curing         49
Salting out                       127
Sammed weight                     279
Samming machine                   125
Sampling                    227f; 235
Saponification value        132f; 142
Sardine oil                      131f
Saturation capacity               170
Scales, size of                     46
Schorlemmer basicity               98f
Screen printing                   164
Seal oil                          131
Sebaceous gland                     17
Second                       43f; 313
Secondary emulsion                130
Secondary sludge                  301
Secondary valance linkages          22
Seedy                               44
Self-basification                 128
Serine                             19f
Sesame oil                        132
Setting out weight                279
Settling basin                    310
                                  447
Index
Settling substances                                             304; 310
Shark oil                                                             132
Sharpening                                                            58f
Shaved weight                                                        279
Shaving machine                                                       125
Shearlings                                                             31
Sheep                                                            46; 217
Sheep skins                                                           30f
Shell                                                                  25
Shoe lining leather, quality requirements                      243; 248
Shoe polish                                                          268
Shoe upper leather                                                   209f
Shoe upper leather, quality requirements                       242f; 246
Short Merinos                                                          36
Short pickling methods                                                 78
Shoulder                                                        25f; 235f
Shrinking temperature                                                  83
SI base units                                                        313f
SI units, derived                                                    315f
Side                                                             26; 235
Side chain peptide bridge linkage                                      21
Siligen HS                                                            140
Slaughtering rate                                                      47
Slinks                                                                 31
Sludge, types and treatment                                          301f
Small Packers                                                          33
Soaked weight                                                        279
Soaking                                                               58f
Soaking auxiliaries                                                    59
Soaking pit                                                            58
Soaps                                                                 129
Soda (sodium carbonate)                   48; 58f; 68; 98; 110; 362 365
Soda ash and soda cryst. equivalents                                  371
Soda ash, density of                                                  371
Soda cryst., density of                                               371
Sodium acetate                                      101; 110f; 362; 365
Sodium acetate, density of                                           385
Sodium bicarbonate                                             110f; 362
Sodium bisulfite (hydrogen sulfite)                        72; 101f; 362
Sodium bisulfite, density of                                         388
Sodium carbonate (soda)                   48; 58f; 68; 98; 110; 362 365
Sodium chloride, density of                                          385
Sodium dichromate                                          97; 101; 362
Sodium formate                                           101; 110f; 363
448
                                                             Index
Sodium hydrogen sulfite (bisulfite)                  72; 101f; 362
Sodium hydrosulfide (sulfhydrate)                          60f; 363
Sodium sulfate, density of                                      386
Sodium sulfhydrate (hydrosulfide)                          60f; 363
Sodium sulfide                                             60f; 363
Sodium sulfite                                     101f; 110f; 363
Sodium sulfite, density of                                      387
Sodium thiosulfate                             102; 110f; 121; 364
Sodium thiosulfate, density of                                  389
Sole leather                                    85; 206; 243; 283
Solubility in water                                            359f
Solubility of lime                                               64
Solution                                                        366
Solvents                                                   77; 200f
Solvent soaps                                                    76
Sorption                                                        367
Soybean oil                                                     132
Spectral range                                                  150
Sperm oil                                                       134
Split tear strength                                             239
Splitting machine                                               124
Spraying machine and spraygun                                   202
Spray staining                                           164; 175f
Spraying units                                                  345
Springer                                                         31
Square feet to square metres, conversion table                  328
Square metres to square feet, conversion table                  327
Stability to acids                                              256
Stability to electrolytes                                       141
Stability to hard water                                         257
Staking machine, jaw-type                                       171
Standard physical units                                        313f
Starch                                                      60; 69
Stress, mechanical                                             315f
Structure of hair                                                 17
Structure of polypeptide chain                                   20
Structure of skin                                                17f
Subcutis                                                          17
Suckling, kid                                                    31
Suede                                                     207; 243
Sugary matter                                                    87f
Sulfate                                                         305
Sulfating                                                       144
Sulfide                                                         305
                                                                449
Index
Sulfide and hydrated lime liquor                            61
Sulfide lime liquor                                         60
Sulfite                                                    305
Sulfited tanning materials                                 128
Sulfiting                                                  144
Sulfochlorination                                          144
Sulfonated oils                                           129f
Sulfuric acid                                73; 79f; 99f; 364
Sulfuric acid, density of                                 375f
Super Combings                                              36
Surface properties                                         173
Suspended matter                                           310
Suspension                                                 366
Sweat gland                                                  17
Sweating                                                    62
Swollen condition                                           58
Symbols                                            292f; 315f
Synthetic tanning agents of BASF                           115f
Synthetic tanning agents                                    91
TA                                                         310
TA-Luft                                                    306
Tamol GA                              103; 112; 120; 162; 226
Tamol M                                93; 112; 120; 162; 226
Tamol MB                                    93; 112; 120; 162
Tamol NA                                   112; 120; 162; 221
Tamol NNOL                       103; 112; 120; 122; 162; 226
Tamol PM Liquid                                            162
Tamol R                                              163; 226
Tanned weight                                              279
Tanner’s tools                                             123
Tannery effluents                                          304
Tannery machines                                           124
Tanning                                                     81f
Tanning agents, amounts required                            85
Tanning and binding value                                  128
Tanning auxiliaries                                        103
Tanning methods                                             84
Tanning of chrome leather                                   94f
Tans                                                      127f
Technical leather                                    207; 245
Technical literature                                      390f
Temperature, conversion table                             348f
Temperature interval                                       338
450
                                                Index
Temporary hardness                                  53
Tensile strength, measurement of                   239
Terneros                                            34
Tertiary emulsion                                  130
Test methods                                      227f
Test methods, standards of                        272
Test results, evaluation of                        237
Thermal capacity                                   337
Thermal conductivity                               337
Thermometer readings, conversion table            348f
Thermoplastic binders                             180f
Thickening agents                                   73
Threonine                                            19
Through-feed dyeing machine                        168
Titration acidity                                  126
TOC                                                311
TOD                                                311
Top coating agents                                193f
Toros                                               34
Total hardness                                      50f
Total nitrogen content                             238
Total solids                                      127f
Total solubles                                91; 127f
Toxicity                                           296
Toxic substances                                   304
Transparent leather                                245
Trilon types of BASF                                53f
Triple helix                                         18
Tropocollagen                                        18
Tryptophane                                          19
Turkey red oils                                    129
Twaddle, readings of                              352f
Types of leather, terms applied                   205f
Tyrosine                                             19
Units, derived                                     315
Units of area                                     326f
Units of length                                   322f
Units of volume                                   329f
Units of weight                                   333f
Units outside the SI                              317f
Units, conversion tables                          320f
Upholstery leather                     213f; 244; 249
Ursol Dyes of BASF                                 223
                                                   451
Index
Use value                                      84
Vacas                                          34
Valine                                          19
Vaquillonas                                    34
Vegetable fats                                131
Vegetable oils                                131
Vegetable tanned upper leather               243f
Vegetable tannin extracts                      91f
Vegetable tanning materials                    86f
VESLIC methods                                272
Vessels for the beamhouse                      56
Vibration staking machine                     171
Viscosity                               319f; 336
Volatile matter                         143; 233f
Volume                                       329f
Waste water                             299f; 311
Waste water treatment                        299f
Water                                          50f
Water absorption                             240f
Water consumption in leather production        55
Water content                           237; 278
Water hardness                                 50f
Water-in-oil emulsion                         129
Water-insoluble fatliquors                    139
Water penetration                            240f
Water-polluting substances                   300f
Waterproofness test                          240f
Water-repellents (general)                   147f
Water-repellent treatment                    147f
Water separators                             345f
Water softening                                53
Water suitable for leather production          55
Water vapour permeability               241; 247f
Waxes                                        196f
Weight classes                                 30f
Weight relations                              278
Weights                                       333
Weight yield                                  281
Western Glovers                                36
Wet adhesion                                  264
Wet degreasing                                 76
Wet rub fastness                             261f
452
                                Index
Wet white leather                 105f
Wettability with water             147
Wetting agents           59; 129f; 283
Whale oil                          131
White lime                          61
White point                        153
White-tanning agents               113
Whole hide                    26; 235
Wood oil                           132
Woods                               88f
Wool grease                       131f
Wool sheep                          35f
Wool skins                          31f
World leather production            45
World time zones                  398f
Yearlings                           34f
Yield value                        239
Young goats, female                 31
Y-shaped vessel                     56
Zirconium sulfate             97; 364
                                   453
Index
454
Monday, January 25, 2010
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